Snapseed for OS X

A great effects app comes to the desktop.

I wrote about the use of the iOS app Snapseed here and have had lots of fun with it since on my iPhone 4S. Nik Software has now released a like-featured OS X version, althjough it’s four times the price of the iOS version at $20. Go figure.

Snapseed in the Mac AppStore.

It’s 57mB (twice the size shown above) and downloads in a couple of minutes. As I catalog all my snaps in Lightroom, I went to LR3->Preferences->External Editing and added Snapseed as an export option. Thereafter it’s a simple matter to export a RAW original to a JPG in Snapseed – Snapseed does not support TIFF or PSD files, so exports to it are converted to JPG. Likewise, it can save in JPG only, albeit respecting the full size of the original – meaning 3056 x 4576 for a RAW file from my Panasonic G3.

The timing of the app’s release could hardly have been better as I had just snapped a worker at the Transbay Terminal construction site on Howard Street in San Francisco with a backdrop of massive I-beams and the original needed a little something to confer the industrial feel I wanted. An export to Snapseed saw the original thus:

Original exported into Snapseed.

A few quick tweaks in the ‘Grunge’ panel were followed by a touch of CenterFocus/Vignette/Blur, and with the addition of a Grunge Frame I had what I wanted. Saving the file seemed to place it in the Lightroom directory, judging by the filename, but I could not see it in the Lightroom Grid view, so decided to save it to the Desktop and import it thence to LR3. I suspect I’m doing something wrong and will look into it – with PS CS5, for example, a ‘Save’ places the file right next to the original in the LR3 Grid display.

Here’s the result:

At the Transbay Terminal site, SF. G3, 45-200mm @ 78mm.

The simple user interface, the quality of the many effects and the general speed and ease of use make this a bargain, even at $20, compared to $5 for the iOS version. Sure, you could do all of this in iOS, laboriously exporting and reimporting the picture, but life’s too short for that. This is no substitute for the industrial strength of Photoshop, but try doing all of the above in under one minute in that behemoth of an application. Snapseed is proof that a few carefully selected effects in a well engineered product suffice most of the time.

Here’s another before/after of an image also snapped yesterday.

The original:

The shoe. G3, kit lens @35mm.

After:

After Snapseed.

In this example I used the ‘Tune Image’, ‘Drama’ and ‘Frames’ settings. ‘Tune Image’ includes selective options, though I did not use those here. Snapseed has done a great job of enhancing drama and bringing up detail in the bricks, highlighted by the setting sun.

Printing Woz

A magnificent photograph by Rajan P. Parrikar.


Let me start by saying that printing someone else’s photographs is the last thing on earth I thought I would ever do. Heck, it’s all I can do to cope with my own output. But when I offered to make a couple of prints for Rajan Parrikar of his magnificent portrait of a very special man, Steve Wozniak, my interests were not purely altruistic. You see, I very much wanted one of these for my wall! Woz is an engineer’s engineer and Rajan has captured all the warmth and kindness in that magnificent face in his extraordinary portrait.

As Rajan tells it, the lighting was fading fast by the time Woz was available and his 85mm f/1.2 Canon L optic on the no less special Canon 5D Mark II body was opened up to f/2.8 at ISO200. A larger aperture would have put the nose out of focus in this tightly cropped composition. Rajan writes:

“The 85L II is a magnificent piece of optic, but takes a little time getting used to. As you observe, it is insanely sharp, and I often use the softening filter in portraits to tamp it down.”

My usual printing routine, meaning 99% color originals, is as simple as it gets. My Dell 2209WA displays are calibrated regularly with the EyeOne colorimeter, and my HP DesignJet 90 wide carriage dye printer uses standard HP glossy and matte papers with the profiles provided by HP. I tell Lightroom3 to use these profiles in preference to the ones generated internally by the DJ90 as I find that I get a slightly better print-to-screen match, though there’s very little in it. For much more on the DJ90 click on Photography->Technique->Printing in the right hand column when viewing this site on a laptop or desktop.

I take one other precaution. Professional printers will use costly colorimeters to profile their printer and will view the print in a color controlled viewing booth. Costly printer hardware increasingly comes with built-in colorimeters to do this job. I have no need for paper specific printer profiling as HP’s profiles are excellent, but I do try to process and print by noon light in my room on sunny days only, meaning I’m limited to some 340 days a year in Northern California! The reason is that the color of the light by which a print is viewed has a huge impact on its color rendition, and while with many of my abstracted color snaps that’s no big deal, in this case it was very significant.

You see, Rajan had opted for a warm rendition of the monochrome file, with the merest touch of magenta. You can see his rendering by clicking here. It’s the first picture. And while the job was easy as regards sharpness and contrast, the original file being of outstanding quality, the color aspect proved challenging. The most minor changes in color settings in LR3 made big differences in the rendering of the paper image viewed in natural light. Further, it was again brought home forcefully to me how ambient light color temperature affects a print, and for some reason this is far more severe in a monochrome print than in a color one.


Just walking around the home with print in hand showed large changes in color. So when someone asks you to ‘make a print’ your first question should be “What color temperature will it be viewed in?”. Not very realistic, but very much the case if fidelity to the original is demanded.

To cut a long story short, I made no fewer than five 13″ x 19″ test prints, preferring the large size for proofing as I have long known that it’s useless to use a small print as a proof when looking to make a large one. In the final print I dialed in Orange Hue of -35 but it took me five passes to get to this point! Strangely, reducing the orange gave the final result the hint of magenta required, as opposed to dialing in magenta which did little. That and a touch of added brightness gave me a close match.

It was worth the effort for such a special photograph, and once Rajan has signed mine it’s going to end up on my wall. I made both glossy (my preferred paper) and matte versions, switching only to the appropriate HP Paper profile when changing papers. The results are nearly identical, with the glossy variant showing predictably deeper blacks from the superb dye inks used by the DJ90. There are newer printers out there, but the 24″ HP DJ130 remains on sale new at B&H and is half the price of its nearest pigment ink competitor. I would buy another one of these in a heartbeat. Sure, the latest pigment inks last longer than the 80 or so years claimed for the DJ90′s dyes, but I’ll be long dead by then and, like Clark Gable, won’t give a damn.

But my days of printing for others are over, almost as soon as they started. The stress is too much ….

Correcting verticals

A simple Photoshop routine.

The eye is exceptionally sensitive to parallelism and hence to leaning verticals. Hang a picture on the wall just a few minutes of arc out of level and anyone will spot the error immediately. Leaning verticals in photographs, where none are called for, are every bit as objectionable.

Correcting these is easy and better done in Photoshop than in Lightroom with its limited controls.

Click the picture for the instructional video and watch out for the phone call at the end! It seems that no matter how hard one tries to switch of all the sounds that pervade our lives, there’s always at least one sound source to be missed.

Click the picture for the video.

The video is 8 minutes long.

Background Blur

Making the subject pop.

I have referred to the need to blur backgrounds in pictures made with short focal length lenses often. As cameras get smaller, focal lengths shorten. The 35mm FFE lens in the iPhone 4S, for example, has a focal length of but 4.3mm, meaning just about everything is always sharp. At a given aperture, depth of field is solely a function of focal length, having nothing to do with sensor size.

To put this in perspective, the 50mm FFE lens on a full frame 35mm camera or DSLR become 150mm on a 4″ x 5″ sheet film monster, 80mm on a 6×6 medium format Hasselblad, 25mm on an MFT body and just 6 mm on the typical cell phone with its microscopic sensor. Compared to a 6mm, the depth of field of a 150mm lens is miniscule – everything is in focus with the former, little is with the latter. So selective focus on small cameras, absent help from software, is not going to happen ‘in camera’, yet.

If a picture is worth a thousand words an instructional video is an order of magnitude more efficient, so I have made a brief video explaining how to confer background blur using Photoshop CS5, which you can see by clicking the image below. While I start and end the process in Lightroom3, that’s not a required part of the workflow. Use whatever database you like for storage.

And remember, the only people who will know you used this technique will be those you tell in advance.

Click to view the 8 minute video.

One day this technology will be built into software in cameras. The user will be able to restrict the zone of sharpness to the main subject. Cameras already have face recognition. Selective focus is a rational extension of this thinking. Meanwhile, PS CS5 does just fine.

Simple animation

A time lapse movie is easy to make.

Our 9 year old son likes to get traditional games from Mindware, a source which specializes in non-electronic toys and games with the common theme of making a child (or adult assistant!) think.

His latest is a study in criminality, also known as the building of Manhattan. First you assemble a jigsaw puzzle of Manhattan, complete with cutouts for all the buildings, then you insert the buildings in chronological order showing how Manhattan, as we know it today, grew. The oldest is the 1812 City Hall, the newest the Millennium Tower, that monument to hubris and stupidity which is an open invitation to terrorists for an action replay of 9/11.

When assembling the puzzle, Winston reminded me that he had taken a movie animation class during his summer holidays, so it was a matter of moments to set up the G3 on a tripod, hand him the wireless remote and instruct him to press the button after each building was inserted. This he proceeded to do with great aplomb, giving the remote a dramatic swing and press each time. David O. Selznick would have been proud.

You can download the result by clicking the picture below. Two things are immediately obvious – the white balance control in the Panasonic G3 sucks (as it did in the G1) and I really should have used a constant light source like an electronic flash. A couple of frames are unsharp, probably the G3 waking from sleep and failing to focus in time. Further the inevitable bumps of the tripod make the result move around a bit. Finally, the Statue of Liberty was not the oldest structure, but as a proud American, Winston insisted of placing it first.

Click the image to download.

I have a pretty good knowledge of Manhattan’s architecure from having lived there many years and because architecture fascinates me, so it was no surprise to find that the easiest buildings to place were those built before 1960 with the hardest dating from the International Style boxes which dominated the subsequent decade. I mean, how do you tell one smooth-sided slab from another? I’ll make honorable exceptions for Seagram for its quality and Lever House for its airiness, both on Park Avenue, but the rest of that period would benefit from a wrecking ball. And if you want something quite unsurpassed for sheer ugliness, try the grandly named 1 New York Plaza on Water Street at the tip of Manhattan, where I worked at Salomon Brothers in the 1980s. The miscreant designing this had some sort of obsession with those early touch type elevator buttons because that’s all it resembles.

While you can get a far higher quality result than in this case, the technique involved is simple. Dump all the pictures into iPhoto, click Command-A to select all, then drop them in a New Project in iMovie. I used iMovie ’09. Hit Command-A in iMovie to select all the images then hit C for Crop. Click on Crop to avoid the Ken Burns effect default, which does not work for time lapse movies. Then export the movie (‘Share’). This one has 127 images/buildings, one second for each. The download is just 11mB in size.

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