Yes the PCH is a religious experience, I rode that stretch from Half Moon Bay to Torrance with my older brother in an even worse car than a Volvo could ever hope to be, a ’75 Chevy Vega. We hung in there til Torrance but the driving was light to light from Malibu on down. I had no camera to record the trip, but the memories are still vivid.
PCH from Camp Pendleton to roughly San Diego. Stop at the Belly Up in Solana Beach and listen to BB King play for 3 dollars. Oh yeah, and do it on two wheels. Of course, you’ll have to do it in 1982, ’cause it ain’t there anymore.
Ah, yes. I don’t mind people using plastic cameras, but calling it return to the photographic basics and such, please… It’s plastic, for heaven’s sake. Mind you, don’t forget the new scourge – the dreaded cell phone camera. I can just see a gallery note: Exploiting the possibilities of cutting edge digital technology, the Artist uses heavy pixelation to explore the essential building blocks of visual perception. Ah, marketing is a wondrous thing, indeed…
I agree completely…lenscaps are merely things to fret about losing and the cases are downright ugly (and add weight and size. My QL17 has no case, cap or strap, it is held by anchoring my thumb against the advance lever. Simmilarly, my Rolleicord has been freed from it’s case and has never been happier.
great blog!
Cute. Wait till you discover the guilty world of roll film backs and your conversion will be complete.
Denton: LF newbie too.
The trouble always starts at the printer 🙂
CMYK (K stands for Key)
Thomas, I enjoyed your blog a lot, “Quality Time with Ansel” being a high point. Please don”t give up on it, you don’t seem to have posted anything in months.
Keep on, we’re out there listening!
Christoph
Yes, we are chipping away at the great photographic trade imbalance. At last count, 9.865 out of 10 Canadian photographers bought their equipment mail order from the US (or ebay).
It is great to get a little further into the field with a little less discomfort.
I really enjoy reading your postings,
great stuff, keep it up.
Hi Thomas, nice to read about your change to digital. I made this change too and i am having a nice time with my pentax ist ds…
For me the biggest issue with DSLRs is the FOV crop…but the 5d is a full frame sensor, so this problem is gone for you…
I started as you did..shoting JPG and trying to get a perfectly exposed JPG to do less in PS…My camera tend to underexpose some pictures and i changed to spot metter too, but now i am using RAW..of course i am trying to get the best exposed image that will genarate a good RAW, but i do a lot of corrections in RAW, exposure corrections and some sharpness…
Try to explore RAW…you will see the difference..it is a lot better tha JPG. You will only need a software that organizes your workflow…camera raw is very slow..and dosn´t has a good workflow…Try phase one software (capture one pro)
My camera is a 6mp sensor, wich, for me, produces very good images…i really don´t need more at this time.
I am using some old pentax lens, manual focus and with A at aperture…some 50mm 1.7 and a 28mm 2.8 …i have also a 24mm 1.8 (sigma)..i like old lens, because the quality is very good, they are sharp and have minor flare problems…and they are very little and well built…
I didn´t know about this blog…i i will try to visit more often..
Thanks for all the information
all the best
Daniel G.
from Brazil
Hey..if you have some time visit my page at flicker (i put the link as my webpage here)…i have some street and documentary pictures there and would love to know your opinion…
Great information Thomas. I have recently switched to digital (Nikon – I had a fair amount of Nikon glass that needed home) and am very, very happy. The quality of the images is fantastic. I just printed 30”x16” and it’s stunning. I imagine Canon produces similar results. The only thing I would like to challange you on is the strap. Canon cannot possibly make the worst strap – it’s got to be the Nikon. It boggles the mind that these guys can perform true engineering feats, but can’t design a damn strap.
I am trying to shot, and leave my digital pictures in color…I am having a very difficult task trying to find the “look” that i like…sometimes i prefer more contrast…sometimes less saturation..sometimes more vivid colors…i don´t know…maybe i will stay in some point like this..a more natural and “real” look..
BTW..this old lens seems perfect to me…I am too using some old manual focus lens at my digital camera.
I am in awe. Just..wow! Not only are your pictures extremly vibrant with color but just the way you describe your thoughts and feelings in such detail about those pictures, during the act of taking the pictures and how you came across that perfect scene. You are an inspiration Sir. Thank you.
You didn’t think you were the only one who rejoiced at the sight of perfectly positioned rainbows did you? 😉 Obviously the birds are taking in the view just as you were. I’m sure if you look close enough you might see one of them hunched over and squinting through a tiny viewfinder too.
I have used a Leica M6 for the last 15 years and even though I now have Fuju Finepix S3 Pro which is fantastic, the M6 is still a contant companion. The quality of the light in every picture because of the lenses is special, and the cameras small size and silence, makes you nearly invisible to the people you photograph.
I think film will still be available 10 years from now, but it will be a very small niche.
Thanks for an excellent blog.
Film has been dead for me, no more darkrooms, no more chemical odors. From a Mavica in ’99 to a 20D now, I am enjoying every bit of digital. Not to say that I was not as fascinated as everyone else at seeing the Polaroids of yesteryear, or the 24 hours photos – now an hour is not quick enough.
On Kodak’s behalf, they have a bunch of smart folks, both designing innovative stuff (V-570) and software (Digital SHO).
And Aunt Minnie didn’t like me anyway . . .
Thanks for the history.
film is dead for me to, since 1997. I use canon slr and i dont’need my old pentax 6×7 any more. I write from italy, and in 2001 i made one of the first photographic books completely made in digital in my nation.
Film is definitively dead.
I am too not a great fan of Winogrand, a friend photographer studied with him at UT and thinks he is great. I have Winogrand 64 book and there are some nice images and I actually like the book.I use to watch him in NY shooting sometimes during my lunch hour and that was wild. He truly did burn the film
I came to your blog because of the hp printer. I want to upgrade and cannot find many that have the hp 90 or 130 instead of epson. Interested in the long run how you will like it. For the money HP printers are cheap compared to some of the epsons,thanks
“HP does not supply a USB cable (how cheap is that?) ”
King Gillette gave them the idea. Low-end printers are (after rebate) free. HP makes money selling the ink cartridges. The store makes money selling overpriced cables.
But you’d think they might want to coddle the customers at the high end.
Hmm, I betcha I’m your S. Korea hit.
Although I just ordered a Canon EOS 5D and probably won’t shoot as much slide film anymore, I can’t help thinking film is VERY MUCH ALIVE if I see my 6×6 shots (Kodak E100G, Bronica S2a, ~1969) on the light box of fall colours in Norway last September. Gorgeous! It would be a little bit more difficult to appreciate DVDs…
I also know a friend who shoots slides besides his 300D because he likes the look better. Also, a stock bureau person I spoke used a Sensia slide of mine, scanned and blown up to poster size – he has a Nikon D2X and says it is inadequate for this kind of enlargements (1 m). But yes, for up to A3 size I assume digital is better nowadays. The big advantage of digital is smaller weight and incredible flexibility. Th disadvantage, storage….?
After I applied 1.0.5 update, I found a problem in Av mode shooting at ISO 3200. The image (with white background) had a band of brown cast over the white background. I try the exact setting in manual mode and the image came out perfectly white. So I can tell there is a problem in Av mode for sure. I’m wondering if it is a common problem with the new firmware 1.0.5 or just my 5D. By the way, I didn’t have this problem with firmware 1.0.3. How can I revert back to the old version?
Well, I just tried it on an image with a white background on Av at 1600 and 3200 and there is no cast at 3200, so it may be your camera. I don’t know whether you can revert to 1.0.3. Have you tried reinstalling 1.0.5? If it helps, my 5D’s serial number is 0620305xxx.
Thanks for the reply. Another photographer who upgraded the firmware with me at the same time had the exact same problem. The color of cast might be influenced by the lighting (fluorescent). Can you try under this kind of lighting and compare your results with images using Av mode and manual mode at ISO 3200? I’ll try if I can reinstall from a fresh download of 1.0.5.
I’ll try next time I’m in fluorescent lighting. I don’t have any at home. My test was of an overcast whitish sky in the local landscape.
I trashed my downloaded copy of 1.0.3 but I’ll bet if you post your question to one of the more popular chat boards someone will still have a copy. The only snag I see is that the camera LCD asks whether you want to ‘update’, suggesting that going back may not be possible. Maybe you can rename the 1.0.3 file to 1.0.6 to fool it before updating? Just thinking out loud.
I e-mailed Canon support and was asked to send my 5D in for service. It sounds like there was no way to downgrade. Otherwise, they would have just e-mailed me 1.0.3. 🙂 Since I shoot in manual mode most of the time (in studio and weddings), I can live with the Av mode problem. However, knowing this problem, I’m afraid that the camera might give up on me at the most critical time during a wedding. Anyway, I think the problem is that Canon forgot to run noise reduction for the Av mode in 1.0.5. In your case, when you shoot outdoor with enough light, the noise level is very low, therefore, you can’t see the color cast. My test was done in a studio with a solid white background without flash. The low room light causes a lot of noise for ISO 3200 to capture. Without the internal noise reduction logic, the noise would show up as a color cast since the backgroup is solid white. I think my analysis might make sense since the manual mode seems to produce a clean image!
I am by no means an expert, but I seem to recall that some non-dedicated flash units apply a very high trigger voltage between the hot shoe base and the central contact. These voltages may damage the sensitive electronics in modern electronic cameras. The flash connector at the side of the 5D body is made to withstand considerably higher voltages. Robin, The Netherlands
That’s a valid point. I use a later model Vivitar 283 with low triggering voltage (earlier ones were higher) and for my Novatron studio flash I add a small adapter between the power pack and the camera which reduces the triggering voltage ‘seen’ by the camera. I would, however, be interested in a definitive source for your statement that the two flash sockets on the camera differ in regard to voltage sensitivity.
I can always count on you as an accurate barometer of good visual taste. Agreed. Ed
I shoot close up macro in the studio.
I am wondering if the 1Ds Mark2 would be enough of a image quality for advertising or do I need to step it up to one of those backs made by Phaseone, Leaf, Sinar, Foveo, Bayer?..I dont know the names…but they are twice or more than the 1Ds mark2. I have a 4×5 F2 but I would need to upgrade the back standard to P2,P3 to use a back. I am not enlarging these much at all…but some cropping (not much). I am looking for that Large format quality of gradations in saturation and clarity. Will I get that with the Canon 1Ds or 1Ds mark2 or, do I need to go to something bigger..even more so than the Mamiya DZ?
thanks for any feedback.
Leo
Leo – I use a Canon EOS 5D and still use film in my 4″x5″, so I cannot objectively answer your question.
You may like to try this article on the Luminous Landscape site which compares large format film with digital, though I would take it with a pinch of salt as the author’s many laudatory pieces on Canon gear suggest he thinks Canon can do no wrong.
A related piece on large format digital, albeit at a huge investment, appears here.
Interesting reading – printed my first sheet today on a 90r, taken with a 5D.
Yes that LLandscape does mention important stuff…It usually looks at things in regards to 30×40 printing…Huge. I dont need any larger than 13×19…but want to be as sharp and focused as possible. I am looking for the best quality of sensor, using the best glass. I am using Leica glass, and I am looking closer to the Fuji S3 sensor, since it is something with 2 different sizes?…I was hoping someone seasoned, and knowledgeable by experience can chime in and set my mind at ease, before I decide on 1Ds, !Ds Mark2, or Fuji S3, ..Kodak DCS?…or leave those behind, and justify a P25 or some back under $10K….
Also regarding the sensor of the 1Ds Mark2..the photosites are smaller with larger filter over them to help with noise dynamic range..as in the 1Ds the photosites are larger…Both being full frame they had to make smaller closer photosites to up the resolution from the 1Ds. So yes the res is higher…but is the quality also higher or?
More I think of it, more I should do all my prelim shoots with my digi and keep doing the final in 4X5 film? ARRRGHHH what a torchure!
Leo
If you are only going to make 13″ x 19″ prints, save your money. Output from the 5D cannot be distinguished from top of the line medium format at that print size. Even a 350D at one third of the price will do. I speak from experience.
Thanks, it is terrific to read a review by someone more interested in photography than technology.
Bill
“some purple fringing on bright color edges… can be easily taken out with ACR’s controls.”
Could you detail this a little ? What do you call ACR’s controls ?
Many thanks
Michel
FYI, Pixmantec’s Raw Shooter Premium RAW conversion software will handle the LX1 RAW files, and it has automatic chromatic abberition correction as well, which is similar to the on-camera Venus II engine. The free Raw Shooter Essentials may handle it as well.
Michel – when you load a file into Adobe Camera Raw (PS CS2) you will see an adjustment slider for correcting the color fringing defect.
Thomas
Dan – the Pixmantec product only works on Windows computers. As long time readers of this blog know, I strongly recommend against the use of Windows for photo processing in the interest of sanity. The author uses Apple computers exclusively for that reason.
Thomas
Quite interesting, I believe NoiseNinja + slight sharpening could solve part of the Raw and the result would be better than Jpeg. Would be nice if you could try.
Many thanks anyway for this very helpful real use review.
Michel
Thanks Thomas for this explanation, now I am fixed up.
You wrote:
> The thing no one needs: Page 129. The Zeiss Ikon rangefinder body for film at all of $1,617
Well, not so fast. Aren’t you forgetting your past (and the shutter noise this page make upon loading)? This is, in essence, a slightly cheapened (where it doesn’t matter), better film-loading Leica M body. Granted, the shutter IS noisier.
But film rangefinder cameras are still needed, wouldn’t you agree?
Christoph
Christoph –
No, I do not agree. Not remotely.
Film is Dead. The modern replacement for the rangefinder camera with film is a small point-and-shoot digital like the Leica DP, where you get a Leica lens, far less bulk – a throwback to the Barnack Leicas if you like – comparable image quality and negligible shutter lag (finally!). It is smaller, by the way, than any Barnack Leica ever was. And much, much quieter. Plus you don’t have to worry about exposure and focus – just get on with making pictures.
Take a look back at my columns on the EOS 5D and you will see that it was a replacement for my medium format gear, not for my Leica. The Panasaonic Lumix LX1 (or Leica DP as I think of it) is the replacement for my M2 and M3. Low light photography? Granted, the Lumix has a slowish lens; once Canon sensor qualty comes to cameras this small, you will be able to crank up the ISO to compensate without any fear of grain (just like you already can on the EOS 5D) and use your Noctilux for the expensive paperweight it deserves to become. Great in its time, certainly. But no longer needed. Meanwhile, the noise issue with the Leica DP is well handled by software like Noise Ninja.
Very nice article. Thanks for sharing it with us. I just bought a Rebel XT and was looking for a cheap way to get a wide angle. Unfortunately I’m still in high school so it will be a while before I finish paying off my Rebel and can think about more lenses.
Herr – thanks. As I mention above, for a 1.6x cropped sensor body like your Rebel, the fisheye is a lousy choice – you lose most of the effect owing to the sensor just using the central part of the image. So you end up paying for something you cannot take full advantage of. Look for a zoom wide – maybe a non-Canon brand – if you want a wide effect on your Rebel. I’ll bet you can get something that goes down to 12mm, which is equivalent to 19mm on a full frame. That’s pretty wide.
I just bought this lens for my Rebel 300D. You do lose the enhanced fish eye look, but you still have a slight fish eye look. It’s wider than my 18mm-55 kit and lines curve slightly. I haven’t used it enough yet, but I didnt know if I would get any fish eye effect. I do – but its not too fisheye so I hope it will work out. Otherwise I will by the EF-S 10-22mm
Thanks for that – I now have another three posts that I missed on new tabs to read. God knows what I’ll have to buy after that – it’s your fault I’ve got Aperture now, although it is great so thank you for that too. Keep them coming.
Thomas,
You have the architectural version according to an online tripod parts site. I have the one without
the lip.
John
I think someone is filming a movie about her…Let´s see what image of her they will paint.
I agree with you…Fakes of freaks…Today photographers are going to Africa to get these fakes in B&W.
You can bet the film will elevate her to Hollywood sainthood, meaning that she will mercifully be forgotten two weeks afer the premiere.
On a 1.3x crop sensor, the FOV effectively becomes 16mm when the corrections are applied? (15mm x 1.3 = 19.5mm add lens correction for 16.5mm) Or am I missing something?
Ed – your math is correct for a 1.3x sensor. My example, above, was for the more common 1.6x.
Thanks, Tom. This seems like a viable solution for my UWA needs. Having the opportunity to gain a 16mm FOV perspective on my 1.3x crop sensor without vignetting is exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thanks for your time and research.
Panoramas are beautiful. And these are beautifully executed.
“Most people go through life dreading they’ll have a traumatic experience. Freaks were born with their trauma. They’ve already passed their test in life. They’re aristocrats.”
We know that Arbus had a sheltered, affluent upbringing. She suggests that this is a debilitating environment, one where people live in fear of trauma. She also would have been well acquainted with the oppressive, cruel, inescapable power of “class, of decorum, of decency”, everything in the purview of good taste. Rather than her conscience catching up with her, I think this dread and powerlessness is what overwhelmed her.
Enjoyed your website. Just recently discovered.
Digital’s biggest drawback is complete lack of depth. Digital photos simply look flat next to film and consequently a lack of realism. Try Canon, same lens, same subject but different system. Evfen the sample comparison 4×5 and EOS 5D shows. It is not just resolution and software still not quite there to add depth.
Thomas, I really like your site and enjoyed your panos with sound. It is nice to have this as it still invokes the imagination as opposed to just watching a movie. I really like the sound from the Edirol and you may have convinced me to buy one and start doing some panos with my 5D/15mm combo. Thanks for spending so much time on a quality blog. I will be bookmarking your site. Regards.
Matthew Harris
second post; program did not like my email. Try again, but save first, this time!
Loved your review. I will get one. The LX-1 and LX-2 are the same price on bhphoto’s site—any advantage of one over the other, in your view?
As well, some additional detail on how you lined p te finder would be appreciated. I will probably get the 28/35 minifinder, just to have both; v. similar price. Regards, Kit
Kit – I cannot speak to the LX-2 as I have not used it. I would wait for DPreview.com to review it before making a decision – their reviews seem consistently objective and free from conflicts of interest. However, as the LX-1 has been discontinued, you should expect to pay less for it than for the successor LX-2.
Lining up the finder is easy. Place the camera on a tripod, place the loose finder on top until its field of view coincides with that on the LCD screen in the camera, place a small piece of masking tape along the left foot of the finder as a guideline, then glue the finder using this guide.
Great tips. Do you think it`s possible to do the the same with iWorks 1.0.2 and iPhoto 6.0.5?
What about the template you use, is it downloadable (lazy me)?
By the way, I really enjoy your site :-))
Best regards
Tor (from Norway)
Tor – the interoperability between Pages and iPhoto requires Pages 2.0.2 and iPhoto 6.05 (and Aperture 1.5 if you use that) – earlier versions will not work. Indeed, the Pages version is in turn an update to the one I originally purchased (v 2.0) – 2.0 requires the (free) downloadable upgrade to 2.0.2 to do what I illustrate. I suspect the currently shipped version of Pages is, indeed, 2.0.2, but that is not a free upgrade from Page 1.0.
If you want the ‘all black’ template I illustrate, when you have Pages 2.0.2 I can probably work out how to email it to you – I adapted it from one of the standard templates which comes with 2.0.
Thank you for your kind words on my site.
Thomas
Though I do agree photographers no longer have the huge name they had in the 20s-60s, I’m not sure whether there are no more great names. The 20s-60s was a period when the only viable visual mass media was photography. After the 60s the TV took over. That explains the downfall of magazines like Life. But still great names are part and parcel of our age. The visual media are more pronounced and more influentual than ever. Great names that come to mind? Salgado, LaChapelle, Eggleston, Testino. No doubt there are dozens if not hundreds of others.
You said, “Surf photographs on the Internet and you will see photography every bit as good as that of these masters”
And that’s true. All is not lost — take a gander at these:
Some of those pictures are terrific. By 13 year-olds. How cool is that?
Tom Williams writes (I am posting this for him):
…. another possible choice for audio recording is the Wolverine MVP 9800. I got one for photo backup on vacation trips – it will read my SD cards and make a copy to it’s hard drive. It does have a internal LiIon rechargeable, and a laptop harddrive. The battery is a standard type and can be swapped in the field. The HD is also standard and can be user upgraded….
This looks really neat! Sigma has put up a fancy-schmancy web site for the doodad: http://www.sigma-dp1.com/
That’s an interesting link, Manu, thank you.
I learned a couple of interesting things from the PDF brochure they offer – the aspect ratio of the sensor is just like Leica’s – 3:2 – hooray!
And while there is no mention of shutter lag, my eye caught this reference:
Now THAT sounds encouraging. Let’s hope speed of recording is equalled by speed of shutter response. I’m optimistic, as this design clearly targets the street snapper, for whom any shutter lag is too much. We will see.
Thomas
I may agree with you that B&W is not the only form of Art and great color photography is much tougher to ‘do’, thus being more admirable when it’s achieved. Like your South Beach photo which reminds me of Saul Leiter’s work (cfr. Early Color, ed. Steidl), perhaps because of the old Kodachrome feel of the blues. Still, it’s a shame that you decided to deprive yourself of the good services of LensWork. After all, there can be great stuff in B&W, too! And thanks to digital, controlling B&W output has become much less frustrating and therefore more productive than it has ever been. Not all B&W is automatically Art of course, nor all photography should necessarily be Art in the first place. But it’s not our fault if most of the masters have chosen B&W as their medium of choice, even way after color became the default choice for casual photographers. I’m not talking about the masters of Art only, I’m also talking about the masters of photojournalism. Color is most times distracting noise, extra information that detracts from the essence of an image (esp. if you’re talking about people). When not distracting, it’s most times when the whole image is essentially monochrome (like your South Beac above); not by chance perhaps. So, long live B&W and long live color! There’s room for both. Just keep the pretentious people away, whichever their medium!
Best regards and thanks for your blogging.
Giovanni
Hi Thomas!
What’s up with the comments? Every entry of yours recently is ‘no comment’, but I suspect your loyal followers (me included daily) are commenting indeed (not daily I hope). Just very busy on other fronts, I guess. Hope all is well with you, and regards,
Giovanni
Giovanni –
I don’t know what’s up with Comments – I went from getting a lot, including spam, to none, and I tend to approve everything, as long as it’s constructive.
I suspect that one contributing reason is that I frequently state strong opinions which do not rest easily with the implicit mass market status quo. Add the fact that I accept no advertising and, consequently, have no axe to grind for any manufacturer or product, and you end up with a poor prescription for high traffic.
No problem. Far better to have a few questioning readers than the zealots who would have you believe that film is the only art medium for photography, etc., etc.
Thank you for your good wishes, and the best to you.
Thomas
Thomas,
thanks for your reply. You do state clear opinions, and that’s what’s good about coming back to your blog on a regular basis. What first got me to your blog was your Ur-Leica Lumix approach (hey you actually convinced me to go for one), but I’m staying because of your fresh thoughts and images. If I were a brand zealot (never used Canon in my life etc etc) I would not be here.
I’m not a film zealot either, simply because time spent in the darkroom is time stolen from the real world (and wife, a bit like golfing). Have done a bit of B&W film + scanning, lately, but it’s so time consuming that the only point of it is to keep using loved equipment. Can’t sell it, sorry, not my Nikon FM bought in 1978 which introduced me to photography—still using it, something I doubt we’ll say in 2037 about equipment bought in 2007. I don’t know how you ever got around to sellling yours; but then again I am one of those that will never sell/donate/throw books he’s read.
Best again,
Giovanni
Your blog is a fantastic resource. Thank you very much for keeping this up and posting such valuable information!
Thomas,
You’re right about putting this one up there in your list. As Hopperesque as one can get. Magic moment. Or, to stay in the photo world and boringly going back to a reference I made earlier (see ‘Black & White is Dead’ comment) very Saul Leiter-esque. Take a look at that book….you’ll like it.
As for Rita, who knows. Better leave her as a ghostly dream in the window, I suppose.
Take care
Giovanni
Thanks, Thomas. I have one en route. Long overdue, I must say. Decided to blow the budget and keep the Leicas, if only to assuage my fixation with minimalist design and ergonomics.
Thomas,
I’m honored that you decided to trust me on this purchase and -more importantly- happy that you enjoyed it as I suspected you would.
All we need to do now is to find a way to post-process your digital shots to replicate the unique feel of vintage film (Kodachrome? the book does not say or I don’t recall)… I just love that slightly desaturated look.
Also love your Madison Avenue shot up here…
Take care,
Giovanni
Giovanni –
Thanks.
You can do the Kodachrome thing with Alien Skin, though in my experience Kodachrome is neither pastel nor fade prone.
I have to agree with you about your comparisons between LR and Aperture. I’ve been working with both programs, but the management tools in LR simply don’t cut it for me as a wedding photographer. I like the development tools in LR, but even in that area the workflow is too linear, unlike with Aperture.
Adobe does however score points with making the program more accessible to less power heavy computers. I can run LR on my old Macmini (though it runs slow), but it’s impossible to do so with Aperture, which runs on my Powerbook G4. I’m looking forward to upgrading to an iMac or MacPro sometimes this Summer.
Anyway, thanks for your posts.
What can we do, Thomas. Looks like there’s tons of people out there who buy these things no matter what, and for what they need, they are well served.
That manufacturers need to protect their SLRs, there is no doubt. Look at Sony killing the R1 (a think-outside the box jewel that I’m happy to have nabbed for $800 already out of production before it disappeared altogether), because they had to protect their new Alpha series just bought from Minolta…
Hopefully, the odd compact RAW camera will remain on the market, whether it is the Lumix LX2 or the mysterious Sigma. Surely we shall be forced to abandon the good old habit of sticking with one brand through several decades in favor of fishing for the rare birds still flying, whatever their color. Oh, the joys of capitalist creative destruction!
Giovanni
Well as far as “happy users and profits follow” you couldn’t be more right.
I’m not sure however that the Brownie would sell without an LCD screen. If you look at the way most people (maybe not you and I, but who are we?) use their P&S cameras, part of their fun is to snap each other and show around the results on the screen: immediate sharing and gratification. Not many would give that up. True, screens are useless for serious editing out of bad shots (unless REALLY bad), and screens should not lead through a maze of menus. But screens are there to stay, I suppose. They’re the polaroids of old. Well, almost.
Have a nice week!
Don’t hold back, Thomas. Tell us how you really feel about the M8. 😉
Great site. Just discovered it last week. Enjoy the writing and the photography.
Chris
Thomas
I am one of those that are struggling to let go of their M6 and have found nowhere special to go.
I almost love the LX1 but it’s not quite there (I hate the noise, the lack of viewfinder and the uncertain zoom-it should have presets at the 28-35-50-70-105 positions, who cares about anything in between!).
I’m not sure the Sigma will be, either. Besides, 28mm is great but the goold ol’50 is not something I am ready to give up—that’s the second body you are talking about.
I wish the M8 was not such a poor compromise. I’d be willing to pay the $5k IF I could use my lenses for what they were supposed to. And maybe even then, why fork $5k for something that will be obsolete in 2 years if it is not already? A Leica is supposed to be used for 30+ years indeed!
Maybe I’ll stick to M6, Tri-X and home processing plus scanning…
PS I am also happily using a Sony R1 as a quasi-Hasselblad (you know, waistlevel finder and all) but clearly it fails the ‘under a jacket’ test so it does not count…
How does this relate to the general dictum “Shoot to the right”?
e.g. here
Is it that Canon has already pushed too far to the right on the 5D and so we need to underexpose?
Thanks in advance!
Arun –
I don’t know and, frankly, I no longer read LL owing to their dishonest reporting on the Leica M8. When I want fiction I don’t go the the fact section. How can you ever trust this fellow ever again when he as much as admits to being in the pockets of the makers?
However, it’s probably a combination of the fact that the 5D’s sensor is 1/3 to 1/2 stop more sensitive than indicated (maybe the exposure determination discounts this?) and older sensor design. It’s interesting to note that the specs of the yet to be released Canon 1D Mark III provide for dynamic range extension with the push of a button – they illustrate it at work with a bride’s wedding dress. Dynamic range extension has to be the next step in sensor design (I hope) – meanwhile, I stick with underexposing on contrasty subjects.
We will see.
I’m sorry, I did not know that about LL. So, on to another source. On this Adobe page http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html there is a link to “Linear gamma”, by Bruce Fraser. Seems to be saying what you did – but I’m very new to all of this.
I hope having inadvertently reminded you of something annoying, I’ve provided some reasonable reading compensation 🙂
Indeed. Thanks for the link – an interesting read. Fraser is an excellent writer who makes technical mumbo-jumbo (almost) intelligible.
He does refer to the ‘real sensitivity’ of a sensor which may be the same thing I’m saying, but I’m an empiricist where he is an engineer.
Simply stated, I know it comes out better in high contrast situations when I underexpose one stop in the 5D then use Aperture to restore the shadows. Try it and see.
Another alternative with high contrast scenes is multiple image HDR but, let’s face it, it’s a real pain to do, and limited to stationary subjects.
Thomas,
is it perchance that the 20mm is really designed for APS-sized (Rebel) sensors? I bet corner sharpness at f/2.8 is not a big issue at that size. That’s the problem with multiple sensor sizes: a lens cannot be all things to everybody!
But at least, kudos to Canon for offering primes a-go-go. Nikon is lagging hard behind. Let alone not offering a full-size sensor… Comments on the new Mamiya 645?
Giovanni – the 20mm f/2.8 goes back in design, floating elements and all, to the old film, full frame Canon FD for the F1, which is some 40 years. It was state of the art back then, as Geoffrey Crawley of the British Journal of Photography reported, but has been surpassed since. To my knowledge, except for autofocus and more use of synthetics (no bad thing) the lens has been optically unchanged that long, meaning it’s made for the full frame sensor. It’s just not that great wide open and there’s probably too little demand for Canon to invest in upgrading it. No problem – f/5.6 + grainless ISO 800 on the 5D works fine. I just got back with some more pix from this optic and we will see. I need to make some big prints.
As for the Mamiya 645, some early thoughts on medium format digital appear here. I think the ‘cheap’ Hasselblad CFV back ($9k) with an inexpensive body + lens would work better for me than Mamiya’s traditionally second rate execution – but it’s impossible to tell as I have yet to use it. My Mamiya 6 had great lenses (albeit a very limited range) but was poorly made.
Great shots! I especially liked the title of the second 😉 Awesome!
I had a Nikon D70 with a Kit lens and never had a dust problem. But after having it a year added an older pump style Nikon lens to it and got dust bunnies right away.
I’ve got a 5D with a 17-40 and a 24-70 and for the two months I’ve had it I’m not yet seeing a dust problem. I’m probably going to steer away from the pump style zooms.
Hi,
on my 5D, I exclusively use manual (adapted) primes, so no zoom nor AF movements.
Never had a single dust problem, despite the continuous lens changing.
What a great capture- marvelous! the composition, the colors, the framing the mood – it all works.
I really like the photograph. And it leads me to a question I’ve been wanting to ask – what is the etiquette of photography – can a person, such as the subject of this photograph have any expectations of privacy? What if one caught a person in a moment of undignified pose, should one not publish such a photograph? Could a parent not want a random stranger snapshotting her children? And so on. If one is wandering around with one’s camera, searching for shots, what boundaries should be respected?
This is probably a culture-specific question, so what are the rules in America?
Bonjour,
I discovered your gem-blog googling reviews of primes for my 5d.
It’ll take some days to explore your treasures. Since you are interested in the French way of life
may I suggest a book from Pierre le Gall: Histoires d’en France: Alternatives Editions.
Thanks for sharing.
Roger Fournier
I was 0 in math
Beautiful shots. Thanks for posting them. I especially like the finale of the old man walking away from the young child. Reminds me of life.
Great to find your pages, I had fun reading them. It would be worth mentioning that the functions of ImageAlign Pro are now part of Photoshop CS3 (thank god!). CS3 is so great for things like B&W conversion, adj layer and distortion removal that it is the first update really worth getting since version 5.
You can also remove distortion with DxO software, which also corrects for Volume Anamorphosis. It is expensive, but well worth it for difficult images.
Thomas,
I bought this book following this post. It is absolutely marvelous. This is not the first time I have ordered a photography book following one of your reviews. Purchases I have never regretted. Thank you (and thanks to Giovanni).
By the way: I could not post any comments to your site by using Internet Explorer. The “Name” field is inaccessible. I can only post with Mozilla Firefox. This might be the reason for the small number of comments to your posts.
Best regards,
Ron
Oh, I just love your description of the irish wolfhound. They are so noble and dignified and yet so mischievous… one can’t but love them!
Antonio, owned by wolfhounds
I started using Lightroom (beta) before my move back to Mac, so had already become familiar with it and liked the ability to share my image database between PC and Mac while I made the transition.
CS3 universal binary on the Mac was, of course, a key factor in my switching platforms, as I’ve been a long-time user of Photoshop. The integration of Lightroom, Camera Raw and PS (running as fast as on my PC), plus the unalloyed joy of the Mac interface again, is a winning combination for me.
I’ve since tried Aperture, and Capture One and iView, and find them all absolutely fine, but none of them offer the integration advantages of the Adobe suite for the kind of work I do.
Also, I must say that I find the LR interface a joy to use, but I know some dislike it. Had I started off by using Aperture maybe I would feel differently, but I don’t think so.
Wow! I love the look and feel of his sites, and the photos are so clean, as you said.
Thanks for pointing this out, Thomas.
(a devoted rss reader :))
Hi,
good site 🙂 Wish you good luck!
I totally agree about Canon’s wonderful primes. People who haven’t tried them just don’t know.
Thanks Thomas for this review.
For now i’m most in the “shorter” side, but with my 300@f4 I think this lens could be great for landscapes, as you said, as well 🙂
Take care.
Don’t know if you’ve seen this – I thought it was interesting to see the amount of work that goes into assembling these things.
Thank you for posting the link to your show, which I had not seen. I now have a much better sense of your photography.
To my eye, the Mamiya images stand out. They seem more lifelike and appealing. Words like subtlety and dimensionality come to mind.
In general, based on the examples in this show, film appears to trump digital. Perhaps subject matter differences and online viewing make the comparison invalid.
Regards,
McD
Or alternatively:
Many pros are struggling because there are an awful lot of mediocre photographers in the business.
Wedding photography used to be a staple for the local photographer. Look at most people’s wedding albums and you’ll find something that looks exactly the same. The same stilted group shots. Champagne being poured. The happy couple in some trees. Boring boring boring. Uncle Bob took better shots with his pocket Casio. You may not want to rely on Uncle Bob, so you look to the pros for reliability and hard work. If that’s all you’re getting, they are very poor value.
Alternatively, you can look for a wedding photographer whose work makes you say “Wow”. Which is what we did. As we did our research, it was shocking – appalling – how many photographers expected us to hire them without even putting decent images on their web site. We ended up paying a little more for someone who was prepared to travel 4 hours in each direction.
This was the man who got me into (amateur) photography. I may not have known his 17-40L from a coke bottle at the time, but I am not stupid. I could see that his work was a cut above whatever else we were being offered. So can his other customers. He is fully booked for next summer. His wedding work enables him to travel in the winter, shooting real lives in the third world – his real passion.
My niece’s last school photo was the standard four light portrait against a splodgy grey background. It was indistinguishable from my own school photos from 25 years ago – except that in those days the shooter was bright enough not to use a blue-cast background for a school with blue uniforms. This won’t cut it any more. I say good riddance.
Unfortunately the overall quality will for a while mean that even the better pros have a hard time.
But it’s futile to complain about the difficulty of making money unless you have something to set you apart from the crowd. Quality will talk in the end. Look at Michaelangelo.
I love my 400mm f/5.6L lens although I discovered this lens by accident. I was searching for a Canon 100mm “L” zoom and found the 400mm f/5.6L on eBay at what I considered a very attractive price. I decided to try this lens and rationalized that my 70-200mm f/4L would cover the lower range of the 100-400mm zoom and that I would probably be using the 100-400mm at full extension most of the time. I did want a lens with IS but, then again the 100-400mm zoom IS is one of the older versions and not quite as good as the newer IS versions. I also supposed that despite the IS on the 100-400mm zoom, I would use that lens on a tripod or monopod most of the time anyway.
The 400mm f/5.6L lens is fixed focal length and doesn’t use push-pull zoom. I have nothing specifically against a zoom lens; in fact the majority of my lenses are zooms. However, I don’t like a lens that has a push-pull zoom. I owned a Canon FD zoom lens once that was a push-pull type and I hated it. If the Canon 100-400mm L IS zoom were not a push-pull type of lens, I would have considered it more seriously. However, the 400mm f/5.6L prime is more suited to my shooting style.
I do use the 400mm f/5.6 on a tripod or monopod all the time. It works extremely well with the rather inexpensive, and usually overlooked, Manfrotto gimbal mount (Manfrotto 3421 camera Support). I recently shot the Unlimited Hydroplane Thunderboat Races in San Diego’s Mission Bay using the 400mm f/5.6L on the 3421 mount atop a Giottos MT8180 tripod. The combination was superb. I was able to follow 150+ MPH hydroplanes with no problem and the exceptionally fast auto focus of the 400mm f/5.6L lens provided gnat sharp imagery that I consider superb.
Thomas,
I read this blog for a long time now and it is a real pleasure.
This reflection is no exeption, carry on.
Personnally I ran away “autoeverything” when the Nikon FA hit the shelves. At that time my chinese brother in law hand over to me his “fantastic camera” which was going to snap it all for him “because it had a computer inside”, but he needed my help to operate it. I look at the beast and was lost, it was a Canon, it seemed so complicated to snap a picture that I made sure I had mechanical only cameras until now still except for a compact and a P&S today.
As I won’t like a car changing gear for me, I know cameras snaping red apples only could be on the market soon, it is just a matter of decicion.
I find nothing wrong with this as far as the market offers a wider choice fitting everyone.
And I guess you can find someone who is so tired he is dreaming of a sleeping machine.
Like you I’m not a great one for manipulations, but that is a very pleasing effect.
I enjoyed your early Irving Penn article – never seen those images before, I must dig out my point source head for the enlarger again.
Also pleased that it led me to the article on Norman Parkinson. I’ve always had a great admiration for his work and will seek out that ‘Portraits’ book.
He is also to be thanked for producing one of the best sausages available! – Link.
Roy – thanks for the link to the Porkinson – truly a great English ‘banger’!
Having similar thoughts myself I followed your advice and have started migrating to Lightroom myself from Aperture 2.
I would like to add a piece of advice. If a stack contains RAW images and TIFF versions, make sure the RAW files are the stack picks and selected, otherwise even when exporting the Masters Aperture will export the TIFFs instead.
Absolutely agree about Brunel – the man and the photograph. Although I’m no engineer he has always been an icon to me. I visited the remains of his ‘atmospheric railway’ on the South coast not long ago. An amazing method of transport that was ‘environmentally sound’ (kind of…) and innovative. It only lasted a year, but as you say, he was a man not afraid to fail in the interests of pushing the boundaries of engineering and knowledge.
On the contrary, you should be able to toggle screen mode by hitting the F key; twice usually puts you into full screen mode and, as with the Tab, this also works in Photoshop.
Appreciate the tutorials link; thanks for pointing that out!
I understood that the Stephenson Standard was based on the then-standard coach width, which was designed so that the wheels went along the relatively smooth parts of the road. In the days before tarmacadam, only the wheel ruts mattered.
The gauge is very similar to that used on Roman chariots, which of course would have been the first wheeled users of British roads. That may be a coincidence, of course.
Well, I think you’re discounting some features, expected in Mk.II.
They being:
14-bit A/D conversion for superior tone gradations
Digic-III processor for better noise suppression
Auto-optimization for better highlight control
Faster fps
These, except of Digic-III I think are very useful additions to existing model. The 14-bit A/D DEFINITELY produces better images, period. Faster fps – it’s great to have, if we’re doing a bit of high-action photos. Frankly, I love to do auto bracketing and using a higher fps truly helps.
Thomas, the RAW files are packed (lossless packing like zip) and the file size is determined by the content of the file. File size is smaller if any of the condition(s) below is/are true:
picture has a lot of smooth out of focus areas
lens is not very sharp
lens has poor micro contrast (can still be “sharp” – applies to most of Canon lenses)
there is not much noise (bigger ISO > bigger RAW file size)
too small aperture (f/11 or smaller) is used and diffraction eats all the small details in photo
tripod (and flash) is not used (traditional rule 1/focal length does not work if you want every pixel to be sharp, this is based on ancient sharpness requirements with film and small print size. The circle of confusion is about 0.3 etc. which does not apply if you print larger than A4/Letter size)
even very slight focus errors will cause softness causing smaller file size (micro focus adjustment on 1D Mark III is really good to have knowing quality control of Canon lenses).
I have never got more than 16MB files from Canon lenses when using ISO 100 with 5D but for Example Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 2.8/28 constantly produces files which size is over 19MB, and sometimes file size gets to 22MB. Also difference in large prints (e.g. 75cm x 50cm / 30″ x 20″) you really can see the difference between Carl Zeiss and Leica lenses compared to Canon lenses. Canon lenses are optimized to produce big contrast but they are really poor in micro contrast and small details. Of the lenses that you have only the Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L has decent micro contrast; you may end up with a file size close to 16MB if you take a photo in which everything is inside DOF, there is a lot of detail and a tripod is used.
Also it seems that the anti-alias filter has something to do with this: I switched to the Canon 1D Mark III and even though it has 2.5 fewer megapixels yet the file size is quite close to the 5D’s file size. Also due to live view and exact focusing I get more constant results with manual focusing and I no longer need to focus bracket to get excellent results.
That’s the Scheimpflug principle. It’s a cool effect but I feel it’s overdone here by being used for every single shot.
Fair comment, but the lens to subject distance in these pictures suggests that the manipulation is being done in the processing stage rather than in the camera, as it would be unlikely that depth of field would be so constrained in pictures taken from hundreds of feet away.
Take a look at photo #10 of 11, for example. The subject is almost plane to the camera yet the top and bottom are blurred. Unless Laforet is using a very long lens on a camera with a tilting lens and/or back (I seem to recall reading he uses 35mm DSLRs which provide tilting lenses only at this time) I doubt you would ordinarily get this effect outside of Photoshop.
Alternatively, maybe he is making a print then rephotographing it with the print at an angle to the sensor?
By way of example, I have made a rough and ready re-photograph of this picture – the original is sharp everywhere – photographing it at an angle with the 50mm Canon lens at f/1.4 then further added Gaussian blur in Photoshop:
I’ve installed it side by side with my 1.3 version and I can confirm it didn’t screw up my catalog. I am slightly underwhelmed by the changes – I think the jump from 1.0 to 1.1 had as many!
The multiple monitor support would be very cool, if you had 2 monitors.
And so beautifully lit! That’s surely not just a candid shot
Have a look at this link – quite old this but interesting
It’s amazing how simple and elegant the USM motor is and how the FTM works.
You can see my review of DxO Optics Pro Elite (see Comment #8, above) here.
Thanks for the splendid review. I have a 70-200 f/4 IS and I use it for aesthetic photography. The sharpness is good. But when I use this lens, I always go to the 200 mm. So, especially for sharpness the prime 200mm is also on my wish-list. No IS is not a negative point for landscapes because you can use the mirror lock-up. So, I think I I will by it. John Willems.
Why did they want your film? And do they have that authority? What would have happend if you said no? I don’t think there is a law that supports that unless it’s buried in the partiot act somewhere?
This was taken in 1999 before the Patriot Act. Pigs are Pigs. A little power is a dangerous thing and these people come from the same socio-economic class as the criminals they seek to capture.
Far better to give a Pig useless stuff than to antagonize him and end up in the slammer. It’s just too costly to prove you are right.
Hi Thomas, I thought you would enjoy this man’s art. It has touched me like no others. Now I’m going to study long shutter speeds.
Best to you and yours.
Tom
I would love to take a different position on this Thomas but I can’t….. your really are right here, sad no?
I will watch this because I like your taste in technology, pictures, art and now we will see Movies? I will try to watch with an open mind but it will be very hard to.
Thanks
I don’t get it as well. I hope that some day soon, people will understand it’s not about the megapixels anymore, it’s about the dynamic range, about your ability to hold the camera steady while dragging the shutter, the understanding of exposure and how to correctly use lighting, natural or strobes. After 8 meg, it NO longer is about the megs.
I’ll tell you what Thomas, I use to own the HP 5500ps and used the UV ink set, I printed on Canvas (HP Canvas rolls) all the time and the result was amazing, so your bang on with this article.
Over the pond, some of the papers seem to have followed your advice. Most of their photos now seem to be sourced externally.
Although the Irish Times still carries the torch for quality front-page photojournalism. Well, it sticks on a 16mm lens and shoots in an arty way at one of the first forty lead stories. What more do you want?
Wow – that’s a fantastic tip; many thanks for bringing it to our attention!
Are you in the least bit tempted to upgrade?
Arun – I would like to see what the tests say about the 21mp sensor first. And as my 18″ x 24″ prints are as good as anything I have seen from any medium, it’s hard to make a compelling upgrade case. The other new features add little for this amateur user.
They have you now!
The film is impressive. And low light performance is a key feature for many people – anyone shooting indoors, in churches for weddings, at events.
The new 5d looks fantastic to me and I’m torn between this and a 2nd hand 5d…
I’ve been waiting to upgrade my 10D since the 5D first came out (but wasn’t prepared to till the sensor cleaning appeared on a full frame model) – I guess now I have no excuses left not to. Bring it on!
Who is going to buy this 40 grand camera + a lens?
Any number of pros doing commercial or fashion work, for whom the investment is a modest sum compared to the costs of just one day on the set with expensive models and hangers-on.
I photograph flowers. Helicon Focus is the greatest thing to happen to flower photography. I did (BF “before Helicon”) everything but get a hernia to get good depth of focus. Now I have it. Thirty bucks! I have wasted months of effort. This is a rave – exactly what I mean.
Glenn Stoutt
By the way, good article.
My favorite painter. Good article. Great site.
Glenn Stoutt
The ultimate dream camera as of October, 2008. I have the 5D. Not good enough to need the Mark II. We are fortunate to have people like you around to give free first-rate advice in a highly professional manner.
Your site is a trove, a cornucopia. Everything photographic that one needs to know.
Thanks,
Glenn Stoutt
Once again Thomas your 100 pct correct. They’ve even slowed down the shutter fps if I’m correct. But for me, I have a son and want to leave him some video for when he’s older so I want that 1080p. However, here’s the catch, they lost my order when they decided not to include 24fps in this version. So I’ll stay with my 720p dedicated video camera. 1080p without 24fps. What where they thinking???? It’s not about Megapixels anymore!!!!!!! It’s about Dynamic Range. But the Camera mfrs are playing the pixel game as the consumer and most pros just don’t get that.
Now I see it clear as day. WOW. Thank you. I’m going to take a view tomorrow of some of mine and see if I can notice the same things. (love Lightroom, wanna see my shots by 1.4, Bam! Done)
Thank you Thomas.
Geez, this is an amazing picture. The reflection is my fav area but the whole image is wonderful. Nice job Thomas.
We can only hope. But I have a feeling that this is going to be America’s proudest and best history period ever recorded.
I love where your posts are going. Always a good job and well written.
Note: This Comment belongs to the next post, as does my reply. It addresses local adjustments in Lightroom 2.
Can you increase or decrease exposure locally, such as decrease exposure in a sky but leave the foreground alone? In other words, can you do HDR from a single photo? Now that would be really interesting!
JM
Jack – the tutorial I watched specifically does this and uses the auto masking feature to assist you in ‘painting in’ the color/darkness of the area you want affected.
You have to hose your mouse around to get the effect but as long as you do not cross the boundary, the auto masking will detect the edge of the boundary and restrict changes to that boundary. It’s not a ‘one click’ thing but semi-automatic, and easy to do. LR2 also allows creation of three brushes – two to add and one to erase. These brushes have a user adjustable blur boundary so you can determine how hard edged the brush will be.
Please see the previous post for one comment on the localized adjustment feature. The Commentator posted it by mistake to this post.
Thomas, you can use R glass on the 5D via an adapter. No AF and stop-down metering, but for some users it’s worth it.
Geez Thomas. That is some neat stuff.
How about supplies for the printer? Will they continue to be available?
For instance, HP itself lists only 13″ x 19″ paper. Googling for “ARCH C” or “18 x 24” paper seems to bring up HP only; I haven’t yet found any other brand.
Is it a good assumption that the ink cartridges and printer heads will remain available for the life of the printer?
HP 18″ x 24″ paper is available from B&H – click here.
Atlex, from whom I have ordered with no problems, has a vast range of HP paper for the DesignJet series here and lots of original ink and printing heads elsewhere on their site.
Alternatively, do a Google search on “HP 18 x 24 paper designjet” and you will get hundreds of hits!
As for parts and ink, you can still get them for HP printers over ten years old and HP made and sold a great number of these (not just 18″ and 24″ but also the 13″ wide model which shares ink and head designs with its larger stablemates), many to professionals, so I doubt they are about to jettison a key constituency.
I wonder why the HP website itself does not list the 18×24 paper. The HP store still has the 90, 90r and 90gp.
Anyway, I suppose the DesignJet 90 will work with 13×19 paper just as well, which seems to be a more universally available size; and existing 18×24 supplies will last a while. I’m that close to pulling the trigger – the printer is very attractively priced, and you’ve given it such testimonials! I feel I’m wasting my 5D (and not learning as much as I should) by not being able to print large.
Since the 5D aspect ratio is 3:2 and 18×24 is 4:3, do you crop to print 18×24 or do you really print 16×24 on 18×24 paper?
HP’s site is famously a mess. Beats me.
Cllick here and you can get profiles for the following non-HP branded papers for the DJ 30/90/130 series from HP itself:
ICC Profile – Arches Infinity Texture 230
ICC Profile – Arches Infinity Smooth 230
ICC Profile – Digital Arts Supplies DAS Geo Canvas
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle Photo Rag 188
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Duo 196
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle William Turner Textured 190
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle William Turner Textured 310
ICC Profile – Lysonic Photo Gloss / Hahnemuhle Photo Gloss 265
ICC Profile – Lysonic Photo Matte / Hahnemuhle Photo Matte 170
ICC Profile – Ilford Smooth Gloss Paper
ICC Profile – Ilford Smooth Heavyweigth Matte
ICC Profile – Ilford Smooth Pearl Paper
ICC Profile – New HP DJ30/90/130 Photo Gloss P ICC profile
ICC Profile – New HP DJ30/90/130 Photo Satin P ICC profile
When you realize that HP released these in July 2008 it certainly doesn’t feel like they are giving up on that printer series.
I ordinarily crop the original to fit the 18″ x 24″ frame. However, if you get a roll sheet feeder and roll paper (HP or other) you can print 18″ wide (DJ90) and any length you want so, as a minimum, you will be able to print 18″ x 27″ which will use every part of an uncropped 5D frame.
As for the claimed (Wilhelm Research) better life for the latest pigment printer inks compared to the Vivera dye inks in the DJ series- 110 vs 83 years – who cares? What you will care about is the very frugal way in which the printer uses ink and the ease of replacement of heads which are completely separate assemblies from the ink cartridges. And forget all those claims that 8 or 12 cartridges are better. My 4 ink Epson 1270 made prints every bit as fine as the six ink HP DJ90 – the problem with the Epson being nozzle clogging (which the HP avoids by keeping the nozzles warm even when switched off, so make sure you keep the printer plugged in at all times) and,of course, fading inks. Fade free technology was not around when the 1270 was made.
I have been banging away at my DJ 90 since March 2006 and except for one printer head replacement have had no issues – no clogging, no failures, just consistently great prints with inky blacks.
Your 5D comes to life at 13″ x 19″; at 18″ x 24″ or 24″ x 30″ it begins to sing. I use 13″ x 19″ – which it prints fast while using little ink – for proofing, leaving these out for a few says while I deliberate final adjustments for the 18″ x 24″ for matting.
To get your colors right, let the print dry a day and all will be stable. That’s a function of the HP’s inks – these are wet, slow drying dyes which need to be absorbed by the paper, unlike pigments which dry in a surface layer.
After some 100 18″ x 24″ and maybe 200 13″ x 19″ prints over a thirty month period, I have never had a clogged head or a paper jam (once I learned how to properly insert the paper tray! – insert from the left then make sure the right side is fully home), and have had to replace just one printer head. My piece on that will guide you through HP’s pretty awful diagnostics to make sure you change the right head when it eventually fails from use.
Right, so 50mb an image is mad, but that 22mb for the 5D MKII is also quite crazy. that means on a 4Gb card, where my old 350D would take nearly 600 RAW images, i am now limited to just 190 (ish). i have just ordered my 5D MKII…. think i need even more memory cards now too…
Here is a link to get an idea of what this little camera is able to produce.
Of course I would have appreciated different pictures parameters, wide apertures, high ISO etc. …. but still it is impressive just with this “into the picture” effect it shows.
An interesting note is the forthcoming possibility of using Leica M lenses on it via an adapter. I think this will change the way many look at this camera, could it be a small M8 for 1/5th of the price ?
Michel – thanks for the link.
The problem with the Leica adapters will be that a 50mm lens will be effectively 100mm on the G1, because of the small sensor. Now that’s not necessarily bad but it raises two issues.
How do you accurately focus your 50mm Summicron, now a 100mm, at full aperture using the electronic viewfinder, given that there will be no autofocus function? Maybe there will be focus confirmation in the viewfinder?
How do you get really wide, fast lenses for the camera? Your 21mm f/2.8 Elmarit, maybe the greatest ultra wide ever made (I used one for years) is now an unexciting 42mm in effective focal length.
But the imminent availability of the adapter is, I agree, very exciting news, because you know we won’t be seeing anything like the G1’s exciting design from Leica.
I agree with your comments, except that I want a small zoom lens and the flipping LCD the way the G1 does. Something in between the LX3 and the G1. All “scenes” programs can go to the trap, as the others rubbish like wifi and face detection.
Why the LCD you would ask? Because live view an the LCD quality is getting so good it’s open an all new aspect of photography which is very interesting.
I think Canon understood the problem and one of their rep at Photokina did mention we should expect something from them in 2009. They are smart enough to understand where they can make money and if they step in (following Olympus) with APS sensor, Nikon, Sony and all of them will follow too.
Wait until 2010 for your wish to be fulfilled.
I like that a lot, nicely exposed/composed photo too.
Thank you, Thomas, for bringing back to the forefront of my mind a film that I first fell in love with over 25 years ago.
So many films have been viewed since, but this one will always be remembered as perhaps the first ‘foreign’ film that captured my imagination totally.
I’ve just downloaded an excellent copy to watch after such a long gap. I need reminding of the colours, the lighting, the mise en scène – the plot will always be remembered but the visual treat I have in store this weekend is one I look forward to immensely.
18″ x 24″ is a good size, one that I’ve not encountered before.
I’ve never come across the designation ‘Super A4’ either, and it seems wildly inaccurate, A4 being 8.25″ x 11.75″.
I worked for a U.S. company, which meant also keeping stocks of US quarto, which of course is the rather nicely balanced 8.5″ x 11″, as opposed to UK quarto which was 8″ x 10″!
17″ x 22″ is available here in the UK, close to A2 size, which is 16 1/2″ x 23 3/8″. Again, falling short of 18″ x 24″.
My favourite paper size in the days of regularly making prints in the wet darkroom was 9.5″ x 12″, so I can see the attraction of your chosen size.
There’s a comprehensive overview of this minefield of US/UK/European paper sizes at http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~mgk25/iso-paper.html – but maybe there are better things to do in life…
Had trouble refinding your review after seeing it years ago. Thank you for this: Having tried both lenses (the newer 14mk2 and 15mm) I can attest that your review is spot on.
Check out the brief hands-on here. They address initial impressions of shutter lag and af speed.
Good to see a mention of the late great Edwin Smith on your site Thomas, I always knew you had impeccable taste! I get a mention in this book, but they referred to me as ‘Ray’…
Readers interested in learning more about the man may be interested in the section of my site devoted to him.
Roy – interesting coincidence. I am a regular reader of your fine blog but somehow missed your piece on him. Thanks for the reference. Your collection of his work is very fine.
Note: Roy’s writings on Edwin Smith may be found here.
Was the sound for the panorama recorded at the place and time of the photograph? It, the sound, seems too dense and close for the number of people eating and to me it looks like the people are eating off of paper plates but there are several silverware on plates clangs. Just curious, I guess it’s more of a question than a comment. I’ve really enjoyed your writings, it’s good to have someone with strong opinions that isn’t hesitant to state them. Thanks.
Terry – the sound track was something I found on the web – I just wanted a busy sounding dining atmosphere and did not sweat the details.
Good catch!
> Switch off all that ‘face detection’ garbage –
> I know what I’m pointing the camera at
But does the autofocus matrix “know” what you are pointing at. Or is the word “GLASS” really the most important thing in your florist grab shot. I am suggesting that “Face detection” may be Just Enough Automation when relying on autofocus in the same way many of us prefer Aperture Priority as Just Enough Automation.
It is my impression that cameras have become like fly-by-wire jet liners. The pilot no longer flies them – but only makes enough suggestions to the computer so that it can do a better job.
In a similar vein, sometimes I think I would like a programmed Aperture Priority – in which ISO is adjusted instead of the shutter at the slower shutter speeds.
Interesting you should mention that, Andy. I am no fan of these systems and, coincidentally, before reading your comment had changed the camera to central rectangle focusing with first pressure on the shutter button locking in focus. Your comment is spot on for this old fart who grew up setting just three things – shutter speed, aperture and focus. I think the new Pentax K7 has what you mention – the AE variant.
I don’t think the 23-area autofocus matrix knows what you point at. In my experience, it just focuses at random stuff, and tells you “hey, these highlighted areas came out in focus.” I just use the 1-area focus mode, center the focus area, and focus hold. On tripod shots, however, I find that all I use is manual focus.
Thomas: you may want to give the Auto ISO a try. I just set the Auto ISO limit to 800 and use P mode, exposure compensation and program shift. Aperture priority should work as well, of course.
One thing that I didn’t notice you mentioning: live histogram in viewfinder. It sounds neat, but I find it’s a bit obstrusive (it could use being semi-transparent) and not as useful as it sounds (I’m pretty impressed with the metering on this camera).
Thomas,
For highlight management, I suggest you consider a -1/3 to -2/3 exposure adjustment for quick shooting. In any case, a dynamic range test, using a textured white paper towel or equivalent, will give you what you need to make your own determination.
As you are discovering, the G1 is a breath of fresh air. Fortunately, image quality does not disappoint.
McD
Do you still have face-finder deactivated? Just curious what it might have done with all the drawings of faces in your pics – especially the Lion of Ghana (colors are upside down from normal Rasta livery)
Andy – It’s deactivated, but would it make any difference with a two dimensional subject?
I wasn’t thinking of it in a focusing assistance way, but just a “Gee Whiz” way. I am still amazed that this kind of thing works at all, and I am just interested in the boundary line between “face” and “not face” (without spending my own money:)
Yes. I saw this article and I have been enjoying your series of G1 reviews and reports. I am looking to move up to a more capable camera from my Nikon P5100. Both your postings and Joe Wigwall’s (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joewig/) recent move to the G1 have made the G1 to be my candidate new camera. Thanks for the good postings on the G1
I recall an illustrated article in Modern or Popular Photography, 20-or-so years ago that had the then newly-found in Paris proof sheets that clearly showed sequential photos of many members of the platoon, each taking their turn at ‘dying’ at the exact same spot on the slope of the hill.
After this initial article, I do not recall seeing any further mention of this find in any photo magazines, and have always wondered if Cornell Capa or some other interested parties had put a lid on the truth, as in ‘Liberty Valance’ “When the legend becomes fact, print the legend.”
One spreads the cement, the other carries the bucket. Don’t mix the two up otherwise unions will jump on you !
You should see the number of EP-1 on used-equipment sale just after the first month of release here in Singapore
Hallo Thomas,
I have just bought Panasonic’s GH1. Due to the unhelpful manual I looked around and discovered your blog. It is enjoying and very helpful to learn about photography and the G1. Many thanks.
Best regards,
Helmut (from Germany)
Thomas, I enjoy visiting your blog very much, your essays are thoughtful, interesting and reflect your many interests. Always good reading. I agree, Edwards’s panorama is the best! Could you please double check the location of Racetrack Playa, I believe it’s in California. Best regards, Paul
P.S. My web site – http://www.paulbockphoto.com – is under construction, not yet on line.
Thank you, Paul, I stand corrected. Race Track is, in fact, in California. I so associate Dykinga with Arizona, my brain simply defaulted to that lovely state.
Thomas,
I am fighting against highlight clipping, that means I wanted to use the histogram to avoid to much highlights-pixel. But I learned when underexposing that the yellow histogram is misleading in respect to highlights, as I posted here.
There I learned the trick for a correct histogram before taking a photo: Pressing the Preview and Display button.
As you show for high contrast it is easier to reduce expose by -2/3 and use the raw image.
Kind regards,
Helmut
I am a retired meteorologist (64 years old) and IT-developer for satellite image processing some years ago. So I like histograms and was rather disappointed that the yellow histogram is not correct.
Interesting comment, Helmut and your commentary on DPReview repays careful study.
For what it’s worth, I have switched off histogram display in the EVF, but for a different reason. It simply adds to the clutter and distraction and takes away from the picture making experience, at least for me. However, Panasonic hopefully can fix the errors through a firmware update for users who need the histogram.
My default of 2/3rd stop underexposure + RAW file format has yet to let me down. On overcast days when the contrast range is smaller, I reduce the underexposure setting to -1/3 or 0.
Hi Paul … yes, you’re right, the Racetrack is indeed in Death Valley in California. It’s one of the most amazing, remote and spiritual locations i’ve ever been to. It takes a two hour drive along a rough dirt track in a four wheel drive vehicle to get there but the experience is well worth the effort at either sunrise or sunset.
You can check out more of my 360 virtual tours here. And thanks for the kind words about my work … Rod Edwards (UK)
I do like my big ugly PC server boxes with masses of space inside hidden under the desk.
If only Apple would sell their OS for use on a PC.
Oh yes, kick off the flash ( who needs a lousy built in flash ? ) to get the space for the EVF…. just well placed on the left side like the Leicas M
Hi. I’d like to d/l the late-2006 service manual, but the link no longer works – do you know where I can obtain a copy?
Thanks for pointing that out, Charlie – you are referring to the 20″ model.
I have updated the link to a new location and it should work.
Very useful and informative series Thomas. Having one of these 2006 24″ iMacs that has recently started to have periodic spinning beach balls and occasional horizontal graphics cracks, I feel I’m on the edge of a similar precipice. I’ve always tended to run mine 24/7, but have started turning it off at night now. Have been using Fan Control since you recommended it previously.
I don’t know how easy it will be to source Apple parts in the UK, but I’ll start investigating. No doubt they’ll carry the usual UK price premium, as all Macs seem to over here.
I’ve just replaced my Macbook Pro 17 (2007 Santa Rosa model) with the new unibody 17″(matt). Hellish price, but I felt I was living on borrowed time with the old one. No sign of the well-documented NVIDIA failure on my old model (http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2377), but it was only a matter of time. The fans were just too noisy after the last Apple firmware ‘patch’ that attempted to reduce the risk of GPU failure by ramping up the fans to max, even when the machine was doing simple tasks. The unibody seems fine; quiet and cool – so far. Not happy about the built-in battery though.
I agree with your views on Apple and Jobs in every case, but still we love our Macs…
Now where did I put those Forstner bits…
Thanks for your good work, I hope to read diagnostic comments soon. Greetings
Will do the same next month except I will use ATI Radeon 4950 and some additional cooling systems.
And then I will also put my broken iMac in the trash.
I would stick with nVidia for the simple reason that Apple has ceased using ATI GPUs and thus you can expect no ATI drivers or support for the newest cards under Snow Leopard which, I have read, is also easily hacked.
Great advice. Let me be the devil’s advocate. Sometimes the uv protector becomes a problem. Harsh direct light tends to make little ufo’s around a light source. How to cure it… take the 5 seconds to remove the filter.
Nice philosophy. Good site.
I agree a Hackintosh is suitable revenge for the white doorstop. I met someone in France the other day running OS X on an MSI sub-notebook.
Keep us posted on how the Hackintosh progresses.
Thanks Thomas for calling Apple out on this, the other item I usually share with people wondering about these insurance policies is are you able to financially easily replace the item, it makes sense to insure items like a car or a house but consumer electronics? I would also add to your statistics the fact that the higher cost warranties are on products that are designed to be carried around and are portable… that does increase the likelyhood of failure by a large degree at least in my experience. And yes I did once leave my phone on the roof of my car and drive away, it was not an iPhone luckily so survived the drop to the pavement.
I meant ATI 4850. AFAIK ATI Radeons are nicely supported in Snow Leo http://netkas.org/?p=128
My hackintosh will be revenge for 3 Macs bricked: iMac blue, iBook G3/800 (repaired by Apple… after 9 months died) and iMac 20 late 2006 (almost fried).
regards
Interesting development – I’ve been wanting to run OSX on a PC for a while – is there a 64 bit version?
I’d pretty much decided to keep Windows XP for work, and dualboot 64 bit Windows 7 for heavy photographic use. This might be a good alternative.
Do you know if you can dual-boot this with a Windows OS. (I run very expensive specialist pathology software which is still not certified for Windows Vista – XP only)
Hugh – you would install OS X and Windows on separate volumes on your HDD (or on separate HDDs if you prefer, though that would be wasteful IMO) and elect the boot source in the BIOS page at start up. Just Google ‘dual boot OSX Windows”.
The 64-bit version of OS X, “Snow Leopard”, will be release imminently (by the end of Q3/09) as a $29 upgrade for Leopard owners or as a standalone box for probably $120 or so. I understand it has already been hacked to run on PCs. Most of the writers on the topic have been victims of US schooling and seem unable to write a grammatically sound sentence, so some interpretation is required.
Macs are fashion items – you are supposed to update them as soon as the warranty has expired.
I think you are probably wasting more time fixing crap Mac hardware than I spend fixing crap Windows software.
I always stay about 5 years behind on Windows releases – only moved from Win 2000 to Win XP three years ago – by then most of the bugs have been fixed.
I’m going to be watching your Hackintosh adventures with interest.
I am sure you could jury rig a bracket for the Mini – voila – a DIY iMac!
Great article. But I have one question: how do you manage to work with the EVF under harsh and very contrast light? I’m having some trouble with the G1’s EVF…
Hi, I was just wondering specifically what about the G1 besides the fast autofocus and good kit lens makes it the ideal street snapper? A lot of other cameras seem to have the same capabilities. The EVF seems like it would help in high light situations from an overwashed LCD but I would think the swivel LCD offers more opportunities for unique holding angles.
Carlos – you can turn down contrast and brightness using the camera’s software.
Jae – LCDs are useless for my intended purpose. The G1 has a 100% full size v/f, not the tunnel vision offered by the alternatives. The actual magnification ratio is 0.72x, identical to that of the Leica M2 and I am nothing if not used to that. And the camera’s compactness and quietness are the closest thing to my mainstay of film days – the Leica M. Finally, it’s the first VF where I can actually see on screen data in bright light – for me that mean the +/- exposure adjustment in particular. My standard for comparison as regards viewfinders is my 5D and, simply stated, there is no comparison. The G1’s v/f is in a different league. Add the fact that it’s the first SLR with proper DOF preview (the screen does not darken, so you actually see the DOF) and that’s all she wrote!
Fair enough, I’ve read that the EVF can actually be laggy but have not tried it myself. How do you feel about the LX3? I’m possibly thinking about returning it for a G1 but I really like the portability of just slipping it in my jacket on the way out the door.
I have not used the LX-3. I use the LX-1. By comparison for my purposes it’s slow, hard to handle, constantly wants to retract the lens (or burn up the battery) and needs a glued on v/f to make sense. Depends very much on your goal – my sole use for the G1 is street candids. Nothing else. Many of those I have published here would not have been possible with the LX-1. It’s simply too slow. And a 13″x19″ print from the LX-1’s sensor really is at the limit – even at ISO 80 noise intrudes. I don’t like noise.
I use the 5D for everything else – very large prints, Helicon Focus, QTVRs, HDRs – click the appropriate section in the right hand column for more. The 5D is to the G1 what the Rollei/Hasselblad was to the Leica in film days, if you get my drift. The LX-1 I keep in the glove compartment ….
I don’t do street photography, but ran into the same issues for my needs with an LX-2 as a sidekick to my DSLR system. I went for an Olympus E-P1 as a new compact camera alternative an found it frustrating to deal with. The AF is slow, but even when I don’t need speed or I’m working methodically with manual focusing lenses, I had a hateful time working with only an LCD viewfinder. I finally got [over] (ed.) my aversion to the G1’s styling and the small increase in size and just got one. It’s only a little larger than the E-P1, but it’s a much more capable camera for my needs. The EVF lag is a small negative compared to having to shoot chimp-style with an LCD under adverse lighting. The AF is much faster, and the camera seems to have less lag as well. The G1 provides more direct controls over frequently used settings.
I love it really ! Nowdays you find these “LD” everywhere on forums, especially on forums dedicated to a particular brand, such as Leica of course, where you get a permanent mass and choral singing as soon as a CEO or anybody in the church has a blinking eye.
Just wish someone like Y san will really take up the digital rf challenge and produce an affordable version of the M9, as he and Zeiss have done with film rangefinders. Speaking of Nikon and dslr, it’s indeed sad that the real benefits of digital shooting are only extended to the user at the high end. Ironically I could afford a D700 with its full frame viewing and really don’t give a damn about the mirror. But it’s far too heavy. And what I can’t do with my comfortably light but lowly D80 is use my old Nikor lenses, which I like to focus manually and much prefer over the auto focus lenses Nikon wishes me to sell me.
Frankly, this is all a bit mystifying to me. The G1 is a wonderful tool, but in terms of size, bulkiness and weight it belongs to the other small dslr’s. Not much difference there between m4/3 and 4/3; the lenses are a bit smaller, but the camera is still in a completely different category from the leica x-1 or the olympus ep-1 with the pancake lens and the like, which you can carry with you anytime anywhere, a bit heavier and bigger than a point and shoot camera but still pocketable. So I guess there are still many of us out there still waiting for an affordable leica like the X-1 but with an integrated viewfinder, or a camera of the canon G 10 with a somewhat larger sensor and above all an integrated viewfinder that is not ridiculously small and inaccurate.
Peter Halter
It seems your 5D stays on the shelf more often than not since you have this G1 !
Ha! For those subjects where you need the utmost in detail and minimum grain, the 5D rules, but for this sort of street action, the G1 is a sweetheart! And I have always been a street snapper at heart, first and foremost.
The Leica M-series, being a rangefinder non-SLR, did not have zoom lenses, but some splendid ones like the Summilux, Summicron, Elmar and Elmarit, ranging from 35, 50 90 to 135 mm, besides the 21 mm Super-Angulon. They were all compact and eminently carryable, and we Leica buffs did not miss the SLRs with their bulky zooms. The Visoflex even allowed Macro with the 65 mm Macro-Elmarit by converting the M into an SLR of sorts.
The compact Lumix 40 mm (equiv.) with f/1.7 is a lens in the same tradition, but by now, even long-time users of the Leica M have become addicts of the versatile zoom lenses. It is not so much the carrying of several lenses, but the hassle of changing quickly enough when required that has made us converts. And it must be admitted that when zooms can deliver quality, there will be no room for the fixed-focal-length lenses in a photographer’s kit bag.
That looks like a good buy – it’s around £200 in the UK. Whilst I’m very happy with my HP2475W (costing twice as much!) I have found that colour calibration is an issue. Out of the box the colour settings are way off and the screen is far too bright. I’m still not convinced I have good calibration (I use an Eye One). The reds seem too intense and the colour difference between the HP and the iMac screen is quite marked. I’d be interested to hear how the Dell performed out of the box and how the colour matches up with the Apple screen, from your screen shots it looks very close.
Roy – I work in a very bright room, preferring to do my processing in the early afternoon, sitting with a window behind me. Thus, I tend to have the brightness and contrast turned up pretty high – 80+ out of 100 – or the screen washes out. In my setting the calibration out of the box was pretty close to my (Monaco Optix XR profiled) iMac 24″. I did a simple match-by-eye of a photo with lots of flesh tones and got dead close by using the RBG color setting and varying the R, G and B sliders, plus tweaks of the contrast and brightness.
In the pictures you can just make out that the iMac is a tad pinker – the Dell is more accurately profiled, in my opinion, but I have yet to do this with a colorimeter. Then again, this sort of direct, side by side comparison, is extremely critical and revealing of differences, so I doubt a colorimeter will do much better as I already know how my screen images from the iMac translate to prints on the HP DJ90 – slightly too pink!
I don’t know how it would be in the darkened room preferred by many photographers, but in my environment it works well.
The 2209 does not have 1:1 pixel matching, meaning video will not necessarily play in the right aspect ratio, so if watching movies on your computer is a requirement this would not be a good choice.
By the way, I did not notice any temperature increase in my graphics chip or related heat sink when using the dual monitor setup – my iMac started life with the nVidia 7300 GPU but, as set forth here earlier, I upgraded that to the nVidia 7600 when the original fried. However, I do use two very large external fans to blow cool air into the iMac though the holes I drilled in the back, so I’m uncertain if this is an objective statement.
It was my grandfather’s car some 50 years ago, he had the new model every five years or so, I kept the last one during my U studies and long after, I probably made more kilometers with this car than with any other. It was charming, reliable, cheap all the way, much better than a bunch of today’s pretended 4×4 off road, never skipped on ice, but the lights were torch pocket and the windscreen wipers decorative. Oh ! like the GF1 camera…. it was slooooow 🙂 , be patient, admire the country side and avoid mountains.
If you are going this far, you ought to have FU Steve look into quiet cooling solutions.
One good site is http://www.quietpc.com (no financial interest) – I’ve just built a quad-core setup using a passive cooled nVidia 9800 video card and a fanless CPU cooler (Scythe Ninja) which is running about 25 Centigrade lower than my previous twin core PC with the stock Intel cooler. Three 120mm fans and a 140mm fan turning over very slowly and very quietly in an Antec 300 case. I don’t want to hear a computer unless it’s working very hard.
I have got some great street photos from a Canon G9 & Lumix LX3 and have got great A3 prints from both cameras, maybe if the X1 Leica got a little viewfinder without having to switch on the LCD every time I want to take a pic and the X1 was half the price I might have bought one.
I dont own this dell tft, but I read when you choose 4:3 ratio with your video card, the dell will have 1:1 pixel matching in smaller resolutions and show black bars.
Jonny – I read that too but in a Mac you do not ‘choose’ aspect ratios. It’s automatic. So the only time you see black bars on the screen is when you play 4:3 movies (bars at the side) or 2.55:1 ultra-widescreen movies (bars top and base) which is as it should be to avoid edits or distortion to the original.
Most movies, of course, are 16:9 meaning they fit the Dell’s screen fully with no bars anywhere. Anyway, for Mac users it’s a non-issue. I cannot speak for Windows as I don’t own it. As for using lower resolutions, why would anyone want to do that?
Be sure to scroll down to see Al Gore’s multi screen setup. (several years old, now)
Panasonic makes a number of great cameras (I have a G1 myself, and an LX3), and the lousy manual is a universal feature of the company. Your description of their manuals nails it.
Yikes, suffering cultural dislocation syndrome looking at this!
A reference to a famous French photo; cars that could be in the UK; a red, open top Routemaster omnibus; a faux Nelson’s Column…and a palm tree!
I need to lie down…
This is fantastic — with great commentary to go along with it too! I have really been enjoying reading through all of your posts on your site. From another “Blumix” G1 user…
I find I’m using Time Machine more often these days, especially when working with clients’ material. I’ve had occasion to retrieve past versions of several job files, which have usually been progressively overwritten over time, because clients have requested a roll-back to material in a previous version. This is particularly true of web sites, of which I keep one copy on my Mac, one on a bootable backup, and also on an external dual 1TB(RAID) Time Machine backup. I’m now finding that the oldest backup stored (February 2009) is too recent in some cases, so either a bigger drive or a different TM backup routine is called for.
Which I why I’m delighted to discover those two useful little apps listed here – never thought to look to see if anything like that was available!
I also like the look of that Aluratek drive dock, but sadly that’s another item that hasn’t reached the UK shores yet. There are Aluratek products available here, but not that one. There are alternatives though, so I think I might give one a try (same price in pounds as dollars, as usual!)
A very entertaining post, thanks!
I really like this one a lot.
A great read Thomas, entertaining and amusing.
I had completely forgotten about the ‘Prinz’ brand at Dixons, but then I guess there was absolutely nothing memorable about it whatsoever!
…and I always wondered where those tubes in Harrods ended up.
“Manual focusing brings up the magnified EVF image and is very accurate – surely this is the most perfect manual focusing system yet?”
I am not sure if you have have tried this, but in my mind the manual focus issue gets even better for both of these lenses. On screen three of the custom menu, if you toggle “AF+MF” to “Yes”, than when you half depress the shutter button you get the autofocus. Keeping it half depressed, when you touch the manual focus ring, the enlarged field of view comes up on the EVF and you can tweak the focus (if need be). Its a great feature once you get used to it. It helps in finding the good initial focus, especially as the lenses dont have distance markings on the MF ring. My two cents, from a rank amateur who is liking his Blumix…
Great tip, thanks. An incredibly useful technique when focusing through a window if the AF sensor insists on focusing on the glass instead of the object behind it. Yet another strike against the truly awful instruction manual which Panny ships with the camera.
Reading through this, it neatly summed up my own feelings when considering work I’ve produced recently. ‘Recently’ here relates to my 2009 Lightroom catalogue, which is considerably smaller than previous years…
The other day, I started to write a response to a recent TOP article, (The Tenset), about why I maintain three different websites and whether I could present my ‘Top Ten’ images on a single front page of any of those sites. The article never got finished, because every time I looked at my photographs from recent years I was swamped by the same feelings of doubt that you describe.
However, just one successful picture per year is an acceptable hit rate in my view, and ‘Minuet in Green’ would seem to a very worthwhile candidate for 2009.
These feelings are certainly not confined to those of Slavic extraction; more likely related to the fact that I too got very close to the end of my sixth decade a couple of months ago.
Cheer up, Thomas, you are good.
You just published a new site with your dailies (I can’t get enough of them); this site is full of insight and good humor: what else do you need? You do this to please and express yourself. The Green Park, London image could be a frame from Blow Up (I love it), and you get depressed? Those folks in the image look depressed, but I think that comes with the Territory.
Yes, we all get depressed sometimes for various reasons, but your images don’t reflect that. I enjoy Hopper myself and I can tell which of your images resonates with him before reading the subtitle.
I’m a photographer myself, with a structural engineering background; in 2008 I won an award at a local art show (I live in SoCal), and had a solo exhibit in Eastern Europe this September, had shown 100 images. My website is close to go live but not there yet. I do mostly landscape, travel and people photography.
You have a lot to show for your efforts, keep up the good work:)
Best regards,
Paul
Thomas,
These days I had a discussion with friends why Sony Cybershot DSC-H50 Super-zoom camera (CCD with electronic shutter, up to 1/4000 sec) had no flash sync limit like Canon, Nikon or my Panasonic GH1 (1/160 sec). I learned a lot. Your images are a very nice demonstration of slit shutter consequences.
Happy new year
Helmut
What a relief to come across your field test of the Panasonic G1, which I have owned since June 2009! I bought it as a temporary replacement for my Nikon D80 while I was recovering from hand surgery. It felt great ergonomically and the weight was perfect. However, I kept on depressing that front wheel by accident and ending up with negative exposure comp in places I didn’t want it. Even now that my hand is fully recovered, it still happens. I have to check the exposure comp before every single photo. I, too, have found that the highlights tend to blow out, so it’s good to set EC on the low side. As for the manual, it’s the worst I’ve ever owned. I’m a great big fan of camera manuals and even read them in bed. I’ve owned Canon, Konica Minolta, and Nikon cameras and found their manuals always useful. If only there was a good book (such as the ones David Busch writes) on the G1.
I’ve just ordered the FL220 Flash. Do you know of a diffuser (like the ones Gary Fong produces) which would fit it? I will be using it on my LX3 as well as the G1. If necessary, I’ll make one!
I can live with the prism hump if it is housing an EVF.
Despite my writing about the brilliance of Parkinson on many occasions, particularly in relation to the brand of excellent sausages that bears his name in the UK(!), I do not actually own any of his books. ‘Portraits in Fashion’ has been on my Wish List for years and no one has ever bought it for me.
So your post prompted me to do something about this, and I found a copy of ‘Sisters’ in the UK for £8 – bargain. ‘Portraits’ is next on the list, with copies slightly more expensive, but worth it nevertheless.
Roy Hammans is a truly inspirational photographer, showing that technique and quality from the past can be retained and exquisitely merged with the technology of today.
Thanks for this. I’d been looking for something similar to hold my G1 and miscellaneous other stuff (two large compartments were essential), but hesitated to shell out over $50 for a small messenger bag or the like. My local military surplus shop didn’t have any used ones, but I bought a new one just like this for $15 (although black was all they had). It’s exactly what I wanted. Oh, and mine says it was made in India 🙂
I’ve appreciated all you’ve posted about the G1 – it helped me make the final decision to buy one (and has put the 45-200 on my must-buy list) – but I also enjoy reading the rest of your diverse posts here. Thanks for all of it.
If you like Bridges but have never seen The Morning After (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0091554/), you might enjoy it. I thought the acting was excellent. Its been a while, but I recall finding the cinematography (Andrzej Bartkowiak), especially of some “empty” LA scenes, to be memorable.
Mr. Pindelski, please put me first in line for your (Depreciated) G1 when you are ready to move up and on to
The Next Greatest Thing…I’d like to give 4/3 a try, and yours would probably have a few good frames left in it!
Thanks
Thanks for the review, seriously thinking about getting this lens for my GF1. Just curious, why do you say the hood is of no use to you?
Rory – it adds a lot of bulk which makes it impossible to pocket and increases how noticeable you become. Plus, unless you are pointing it directly into the sun – in which case no hood works – it makes no difference with modern multi-coated lenses.
Thanks, I definitely understand the bulk factor. I am new to photography so only have a vague sense of what the point of a hood is. Not sure what exactly you mean by “multi coated lenses” but glad that I (hopefully) won’t need to drag the hood around with me.
Hmmm, I looked at the Apple offerings and they simply looked like “every expense had been spared to give the impression that none had been spared… ” (Douglas Adams). I went with the Logitech BT Laser Travel Mouse device @ 40% of the Mighty Mouse price and considering the MAC Book Pro 15′ has only two USB ports the need for an additional USB dongle was a ‘luxury, bloody luxury’. The look and feel is excellent and build quality is fit to purpose. MAC OSX picked the thing up with no problems and the Logitech driver is configurable via System Preferences – it also works well sans driver although the driver offers additional config settings. The scroll wheel is excellent and configurable. Pick-up isn’t as instantaneous as you describe but that’s a BT thing. I’ve used it for about a year now (OSX Tiger and Snow Leopard). Battery life is just shy of 8 months on 2 AA Alkaline batteries with daily use.
Regrds
I love your Steve Jobs’ comments. It made for an entertaining (as well as interesting) post to read. I also think that it will fail to attract too many buyers initially but not because of lack of bluetooth. In fact, I think bluetooth will probably be included. It is just that those who already have a laptop and a smartphone don’t want/need another expensive device. However, when these little machines morph into a truly powerful computer, they will start to replace laptops and Apple will again be in a position to reap the rewards for transforming personal computing.
Jonathan – fine, but the Logitech seems to be missing the side buttons which I find so useful for jumping to the desktop – something I do a lot as I’m visually oriented and generally include pictures with my content, be it blog or email. The Douglas Adams aphorism strikes me as spot on. Good point on the scarcity of USB sockets on (Apple) laptops.
I think you are probably in the ballpark on the tech specs (although I wouldn’t bet against bluetooth), however I think you are way off on the positioning/prospects. Whether it fails or succeeds is to be seen, but this is never going to be a laptop replacement. This is going to be an entertainment device. Pure and simple. iPods Touch are flying off the shelf (cf. yesterday’s earnings report, in which iPod volume is down but profits are up—i.e. the high-end is selling, big time). Apple has already proven they can sell expensive entertainment devices (yes, even in *this* economy). I see no reason to bet against them continuing to do so.
Sometimes you can achieve a degree of success with Photomatix HDR on a single exposure, so never exclude the possibility of its use. That example is an extreme case, a more subtle use of the software can just make an otherwise fairly dull photograph – slightly less dull?
However, I agree that in most cases, the tools in Lightroom can be used to engineer the tonal range required without any need for yet another app.
That’s very interesting. My wireless mouse has laid idle, gathering dust, for some time. I use a chunky old Logitech MX900 via BT and it’s ok, but showing its (considerable) age. I too like the side buttons but in considering the Magic Mouse I felt it just wasn’t going to cut it, the swiping movement on a mouse that’s already difficult to hold, no side buttons – no way. I shall give the 6000 a try.
I still think that if Lightroom and Excel are your top concerns, you are not getting the value proposition for this device at all. It is not meant as a computer replacement, it is meant as something to bridge the gap between your phone and your computer. Something to surf the web on the couch, watch a movie on the airplane, and keep up with email on the go. I agree, a camera would be nice for video conferencing; I disagree on flash—if we are lucky this will be the nail in the coffin for garbage flash websites/ads and something more open will take over as the video standard for the web. Finally, I do strongly prefer Pages to the Mac version of Word, and use it all the time. That said, I don’t expect to be writing essays or business documents much on my iPad…
The L1 doesn’t have a lousy EVF, it has no EVF it is an optical viewfinder because it is a DSLR! Also the sensor is not mediocre, it is susceptible to poor exposures more than some, but properly exposed even ISO is usable. I also have newer Olympus DSLRs and the image quality from the L1 in some respects exceeds them when MP are scaled. The L1 and L10 have very week AA filters, which makes output extremely sharp. The L1 has excellent colour reproduction but benefits from working in RAW. If you work in RAW you will find the DR is amongst the best in class. Plus no mention was made of three of the L1’s best features, the bounce flash, the quality of construction and the feel in the hand.
I stand corrected. I should have written that the L1 has a lousy optical viewfinder:
The same Feb. software update that added G1 RAW support to Aperture evidently added it to iPhoto ’09 as well. See… http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1001 (and I think GF1 support was added in another update later in February). I don’t shoot RAW (yet), so haven’t checked to see that it actually works. Also don’t recall hearing if the iPad version of iPhoto will be *exactly* the same as on a Mac, so you still may have to wait to try it on April 3rd.
Craig
I’ve had great service too. First got my iPhone replaced for a new battery. Took probably 15 or 20 minutes. I realized later there was a stain somewhere in the lens of the camera. I had to make an appointment, but again, replaced with no questions asked in about 10-15 minutes.
I tried this back when it first came out and, like you, found it wanting in many respects. I think I’ll give it another go now as the intervening years have seen even more senility creeping up on me too!
Do you need a separate app for the iPhone integration or does 1password3 cover that also?
You need to download the related app from the App Store to your iPhone and the separate app for your desktop.
Love this camera and i am saving up for this lens, mostly thanks to this post. Without this I would not have a useful insight to this lens. Thanks so much!
I confirm that in some other civilized places I know (Tokyo, Paris…), we have fiber-connected 50Mbps internet with free phone and TV for about 30$/month…
BUT :
– we can’t get the iPad yet (I had to get it with help from US)
– we may have to overpay the iPad once we know the pricing (like 549€=750$ instead of your 499$)
– we are geographically-filtered on the Store and can’t get any full-lenght movies or iBooks, and we may still have to wait quite a while to get them
Delighted to hear that your ‘early adopter’ experience with a brand new piece of Apple hardware appears to be such an unreserved success! Trusting your judgement on such things, I guess I will just have to indulge as well – as soon as they release this to the colonies (at some vastly inflated price no doubt).
It never ceases to amaze me how much Apple hardware is marked up in Europe., but I do believe that Steve Jobs has created another winner here.
Glad to hear your impressions of the iPad. I, frankly, was content with the iPhone. Now, I will checkout the iPad at the apple store.
Although you seem quite “pissed off” by his sarcasm, I must say that I was also surprised to see that you were quite iPad-centric these days … as much I am !
I think it’s quite interesting to see a photographer’s point of view on this new technological breed.
And I guess you may actually be experiencing an increased audience just because of that.
After a few thoughts about the potential of the iPad for photographers, I don’t expect LightRoom to be ported “as is”, as I think converting RAWs may be a bit too hard on the A4.
But a porting of iPhoto or Picasa may be very interesting as a light-weight JPEG exposure, white balance corrections and crop seem feasible (and are the only corrections I really need on the field).
And the benefit for the street photographer could be great : simply find a WiFi Cafe and you can share your art right away.
Alex
PS : please don’t flame my foreigner’s english ;-). And I must admit I’m quite interested of this longer iPad cable of yours…
I was also a bit scared of the iPad’s WiFi inconsistant performance I had in my office, but I guess it was due to the “over-crowded” radio-waves.
While the very same iPad was giving me a 20Mbps score at home.
I guess fluctuating results may actually come from speedtest’s app which may not be expecting such high speeds as it’s designed for the iPhone…
These are fantastic. Thanks for posting. I really like your shot of the petals on the GTO….
There is a free version of the app and a pay version, the pay version is now on sale for .99 cents. Worth every penny , thanks for the recommendation.
I definitely feel your pain. My first camera, a nikon coolpix must have been dropped 10+ times in the two and a half years I used it. It kept on chugging though right up until I purchased my first dslr. It lost half its finishing pieces, had three major dents and gave me many error messages but always worked after I reset it. I went back to it after about a month because I figured it would be nice to have my trusty back up in my bag for those days I invariably ran out of memory card space or battery life. Of course it refused to turn on. Crazy that me leaving the poor bastard alone is what finally finished it off.
As an architectural photog, it has been a personal fantasy of mine to NOT have to export into PSP just to make minor perspective tweaks. I imagine that LR will eventually have this feature built in someday, but until then you have shown me the light. Thanks for this post and hats off to a great blog!
So this is like screen sharing on the iPad eh?
Got me thinking that maybe I should pop into my Apple Store this launch morning to see if there are any left after all…
Well written, thorough, objective review. I’d like to see a before and after image that shows all the remotes the L5 Remote replaced.
Good overview of the key features Thomas. I’m running LR3 in trial mode pending the arrival of the upgrade disc purchased today (I still like to have a disc!).
I’ve found – as you say – that the new perspective control obviates the need to visit Photoshop pretty much completely now for day-to-day processing. The defaults for my Nikon 14-24mm lens were pretty well spot-on on the image I tried, and by switching to ‘manual’ I was able to refine the keystone correction by -1 or -2 to correct a slightly misaligned original viewpoint (subject was a rectangular display case viewed square on at close range).
The improved noise reduction is definitely one of the highlights for me as I often shoot at high ISO out of necessity on my D700. As with the Beta version, the difference between LR2 and LR3 is very apparent, perhaps even slightly more so if you opt to ‘Update the Process Version’ for a particular image in LR3.
Thomas, congratulations for this 5-year-anniversary. I like your sophisticated blog very much. It’s a rather diligent work to publish so many comprehensive posts. It seemed to me you like writing articles, like a passionate author of books. Good for the readers, which will eagerly anticipate a lot of your exciting articles for the next five years.
Congratulations on five years. I started reading this site mainly since I’m trying to learn about photography, but I’ve actually been finding your commentaries about technology interesting as well.
That being said, the comment “I write to find out what I think.†raises a question for me. It seems to me that your prediction regarding the death of keyboards is heavily reliant on speech recognition becoming the new standard for text input. I’ve read comments from some people who already use this technology all the time on their computers and swear by it. However, when my dad tried it a few years back he soon went back to a keyboard, not because of the accuracy, but simply because he found that text he dictated was never as well thought out as what he typed. I’m curious as to whether you’ve used speech recognition, and if so what your experiences were.
Stuart – Thanks for the kind words.
Yes, I have been experimenting with speech recognition since my PC days over a decade ago and, no, I have not found anything up to snuff yet, whether among the ‘teach them your enunciation’ packages or those without the teaching need. But it will come and yes, my comments about keyboards dying are based on the expectation that speech recognition technology will get there. Realize that touch technology was, for most, a dream just a few years ago.
As regards dictation skills, I have too many years in business before the advent of personal computers and the obsolescence of secretaries for that to be an issue. It’s a skill like any other and needs to be learned. It happens to be a wonderful way of refining your thinking, writing and public speaking skills.
So in that regard, at least, the keyboard is a massive retrograde step for me as I now have to type where earlier I spoke to a dictaphone. Practically speaking, secretaries are cheaper than executive time spent on typing, but the world is not a rational place, mistaking motion for action all the time.
Nice HP 12C RPN calculator!!!!
Great article! I am eagerly looking forward to part 2. I just purchased an Apple TV today. It is indeed, awesome! I am currently trying to figure out best options for streaming music to Bose Lifestyle System via Apple TV. I’m interested to hear your commentary on sound quality after having installed a DAC before purchasing any more hardware. Cheers!
Very informative post Thomas. I’m considering this new incarnation of the TV box even though we still don’t have Netflix in the UK and it seems that the Jobs exchange rate ($1 = £1) is being applied to the price too.
Look forward to Part 2.
Hi there,
Great write up. I was looking at one of these in the Apple Store in Sydney yesterday, and they are very very nice. I am really looking forward to you sharing your experience of Adobe Lightroom on the Air. I have a 17″ MBP i7 for heavy lifting, but I would love something really portable to rate / select / rename etc. shots in Lightroom during my commute.
Great overview. Answered a lot of questions for me, though I am still debating the value of going for the upgrade to 4Gb.
Mind telling me how much disk space is left after the base OS and Lightroom are installed?
With Lightroom3, Photoshop CS2, iWork and iLife (iPhoto only) installed, I have 41.3gB available.
Thanks for the updates, both RAM and diskspace. This is really looking like a nice option for lightroom on the go!
I just want to say thanks for testing the system so thoroughly from the POV of a photographer
I concur. Great reviews.
Thanks thomas for the overview. answers some questions. do you think the 1,6 CPU is worth the extra money? i will also use this machine for LR3, mail and safari. Have you ever tested raw files larger than the G1’s, for i will only use the canon 5d mkII.
GPU specs are far more relevant to LR3 performance than CPU. All the new MBAs use the same Nvidia 320M GPU which is an excellent piece, beaten only by the latest in full size desk- and laptops. I would expect download and preview generation times to scale pro-rata to file size, but once done, file-to-file times will be much the same as LR3 is looking at the JPG preview, not the RAW file.
Your best bet is to take your camera’s card with a reader into the Apple Store and try the MBA to see if you can live with the performance. Apple Store computers obviously do not have Lightroom loaded on them but you can use Aperture as a proxy to gauge performance. The MBA and iMacs I have tried in the store all had Aperture installed.
thanks thomas! i will speak to my local mac dealer. maybe they will even let me install LR. the other thing i will have to try is shooting tethered, which i do on lots of my jobs.
Thanks for this great series of articles. As I’m about to buy an Apple TV, I found the technical details you go into very interesting.
I have a couple questions about this. First, can you confirm that the audio output of the Apple TV goes both to the HDMI and to the optical audio? (This would mean that one can listen to some music without having to turn on the TV, or inversely watch a movie without having to turn on the stereo.)
Second, the DAC you recommend is quite difficult to find in France, and I could not find it for less than 75 €. I was wondering if you’ve heard anything about the AU-D3 from CYP, which seems to be very similar and easier to find here.
Thanks again,
Alan
Alan – The audio output is routed to both the HDMI and Toslink optical outlets at all times. If you mute the HDMI routed to the TV’s speakers you can still hear the optical digital sound via your amplifier; mute the amplifier and turn on the TV’s speakers and you will still get sound. All of this with both the HDMI and Toslink cables connected to the ATV. In other words, connecting both outlets mutes neither. So this should work for your purposes, if I am understanding your question correctly, where you appear to desire the option of sound without video.
As for the AU-D3, I am not familiar with it, though after looking at your link I have to say it looks very similar to the Gefen I use. It’s probably a good bet that this is the same unit marketed by a different reseller. This is my first ever use of optical/digital sound outputs and I went with the Gefen DAC for the simple reason that it was known to work with the AppleTV Mark II. If you decide to try a cheaper alternative make sure there’s a money-back guarantee. I have no incentive to recommend the Gefen over any other device except to say that I know it works well. For me, functionality at the lowest price rules!
If the AU-D3 works for you, please post here and say so. I greatly value my French readers’ interests!
Not at all happy reading this. I thought I was going to be able talk myself out of wanting an 11″ mba.
Very thorough, also appreciate the photog pov. Thank you.
I absolutely am in love with his photography. I could stare at it all day. Thanks for posting!
I checked out his photos after reading this post, and I must say he has got some magnificent shots. As far as nudity goes, I don’t mind either so long as they are absolutely amazing. Thank you so much for introducing me to him. You’ve got a great blog.
I just received my Apple TV and the AU-D3, and everything works perfectly! I can listen to my (home shared) iTunes library without having to turn on the TV.
Thanks again for these very useful articles, you much helped me in deciding to go the Apple TV / adapter route.
Alan
I have just ordered a pair of these very binoculars today. I had a pair of Trinovid 14 X 42BA they were also wonderful but I am looking forward to trying the 7 X Trinovid. I am totally committed to the Leica brand. All my photographic taking projecting and printing equ is made by this iconic German manufacturer
Kenneth
I’m surprised to read “Apple has said that it does not support external HDDs for use with AirPlay”. If you create a symbolic link from your iTunes library to an external HD, how could iTunes know where the files come form?
Has anyone found a Designjet Utility that works with OSX10.6 ?
A blah year for certain. I was hoping for an interesting and inspiring prime lens, but saw nothing to get me away from the 14-45 and 45-200 combo. For $60 on eBay one can pick up semi old but decent manual 50mm f/1.4 lenses, another $30 for an M42 mount adaptor …. so I am a bit underwhelmed by the f/0.95 Voightlander. Where is the fast prime with rapid autofocus and decent OIS? I say give us that, with a G1 with a markedly improved sensor, and I will be happy.
Exciting for sure but the big missed to me is the fixed lens.
None of these types of fixed lens cameras ever made it great, it’s too specialised.
Some would like it wider or longer depending of their style.
Even a street photographer might want at times to use different focal lenghts.
As for me, it won’t make it for sure, I just want ONE camera and not a few for different uses.
It has to be my “do it all” camera.
Nonetheless, the technology inside this camera is promising for future models.
TomsWell,
yes, there is a new utility. I just installed it today as I was having the same issues. It’s available on the HP site. If you go to their drivers, DJ 90, and then software, it’s right there.
Thomas, thanks for in the information on the Light Cyan print head. I have the identical issue and couldn’t find a cure. New print head is on order so hopefully I’ll see similar results.
~Chris
Whatever Steve Jobs is – charlatan or genius – Apple with him is much better than Apple with Gil Amelio.
Also, charlatan or genius – Steve Jobs manages to get a lot of very bright engineers to work in a common direction; and that could be more important than all his mistakes. He has a definite, viable vision, and herds all the cats in that direction.
My goodness, you are on quite a tear –what an enjoyable set!
I have a similar and slightly smaller Swiss army bag I picked up at an Army surplus store for my first SLR, way back in 1980. I still use it today for the G1 and lenses. With the body and kit lens, along with the 45-200 lens, and the ebay special Super Tak 50mm screwed onto and adaptor…. I still can barely feel the thing hanging off my shoulder.
Why not correct verticals in lightroom?
Chris – The LR vertical correction is rudimentary. What it does is pivot the picture centered on a horizontal axis drawn through the middle of the image. This means a lot of the image is cut off at the top or bottom. By contrast the ‘Edit->Transform->Distort’ control in Photoshop permits stretching of the image in any direction at any edge or center, thus allowing for non-symmetrical distortion correction and preservation of much more of the original.
I illustrate this below where the original has had -18 Vertical perspective correction applied in LR3 – look at the amount of blank space at the base which will have to be cropped, using the ‘Constrain Crop’ checkbox in LR. See also how much of the brickwork at the top has been lost. By contrast, the PS approach allows the user to stretch the top corners of the image outward without creating any need for cropping at the base. You can also stretch the image vertically (or horizontally) to correct for foreshortening caused by the distortion controls.
Vertical perspective correction using LR3.
Thanks! It worked with one extra step –
step 0: make sure the memory card slot is not empty.
Every single time I tried it with a memory card it worked – and with out a card I could not get it to work.
And what the heck is “fine” white balance. Their exif data does not show if a flash was fired etc, and when I would choose a new image sample to look at it kept bringing me to the old.
The more I see this the more I love my F5 and Fuji FILM
Like half the rest of the world (the other half has been saying it isn’t as good as a Leica for 3 months) I was a bit disappointed when I first looked at the samples but downloaded a couple of the black and white shots, tweaked the contrast and sharpness and WOW! My theory is they just showed the results with factory default settings to give the reviewers something to rave about in a few weeks.
Fuji do seem to have given prototypes to a few photographers to play with and the results are just starting to filter through:
In regards to the first, i.e. “What were they thinking of here?”, perhaps they were thinking of making mashed potatoes from scratch?
I agree about the pictures. A few of them are nice, but most of them “stink”.
Get a professional to take those photos, and do it all the way from ISO 200 to ISO 6400 (or above).
It is incredible that Fuji makes such a nice camera and then posts those mediocre samples.
“#Fuji X100 Raw Converter Silkpix (included) S/W will be compatible with Windows OS and Mac OS for all #photog that shoot RAW”
Let’s hope The Fuji Guys ran out of LaBatt for at least a couple of hours before they tweeted this.
While the thought of using Silkpix makes me tremble in my boots, but at least it’s an option (even for Mac users) until Camera Raw support is available.
Based on my experience with the LUMIX G1, I think manual focus could be very fast using the EVF instant zoom method. Of course zone focusing via the focus point scale and DOF bar is an even quicker option (especially if ISO 800 is clean and you’re not addicted to subject isolation as a MO).
I can guarantee that if they released the software for Macs only there would be vastly more uproar about it. Most people with Macs also run emulators or have a separate dedicated PC. Not so in reverse.
As for the case – this is useful for protecting it in transit. I can’t see many people slinging it around their neck and walking about like a tourist, can you?
As for the lens hood – just generally useful.
I think you can just assume that 95% of people buying this are well enough off not to worry too much about the cost of the case and lens hood. It sucks that they didn’t include the hood in the basic package, but I consider it to be more important than a protective filter…
As for video support – this is a box ticking exercise – video has to be added to every new camera by law because of all those people who keep saying in forums that they intend to use their DSLR or high end compact for video, but then never do. No matter how unusable and superfluous the video feature is, it has to be in there. Look on the bright side – at least there’s no dedicated video button – unlike the GF2.
People who are about posing are going to buy a Leica. The Fuji X100 is the thinking man’s Leica. It’s priced absolutely appropriately for its featureset and expected sales volume. Anything with a niche market will always cost more – it’s necessary to cover the R&D expenditure. Basic economics.
It does not interest me either but the brochure does mention a video mode.
“HD Movie:
Premium Quality Movies
Exploiting the amazing quality and performance of the large CMOS sensor and high-speed processor, the X100 can shoot up to 10 minutes of high-definition movies (720p, 24fps). In addition to full AUTO exposure, users can also shoot with aperture priority AE. Taking advantage of the bright F2 lens, you can capture movies with a softly defocused “bokeh†background. Later with plug-and-play ease, connect the camera directly to your TV with the HDMI cable (sold separately), and enjoy sharing your movies complete with stereo audio on the big screen.”
The photographer was Craig McDean; the model is Karlie Kloss.
Oops, I just upgraded to the Lion. Thank you for your tips. I will buy an HDD for backup & osx10.6.
Thanks for making and posting your photograph at The 21st Amendment. That’s a pretty delightful gesture in the painting on the wall of your photograph. The gesture makes me want to stop in the next time I get to Candlestick Park from Brooklyn. The gesture calls to mind Walker Evans’s pre-FSA photograph the Getty entitles Second Avenue Lunch.
There is a new themed exhibition at The Julia Margaret Cameron Museum on The isle of Wight UK
PARKINSON PHOTOGRAPHS THE AGE OF INNOCENCE
Introduction by Fay Weldon Curated by The Angela Williams Archive
Parkinson’s photographs including children – 1950-1975
I had the previous version of Richard Harrington’s book, and add to your endorsement.
Thanks. What a candid report. I’ve been hesitating buying a Panasonic 20mm lens because of the high price. The reviews are glowing about it and everybody seems to want one, Ebay used auctions reach new prices almost.
Now I’m hesitating more! Thanks.
I just wish you had written it on April 2nd!
Pete
Thanks. I’m very happy with my 14-45 too. I’ve given it a lot of exercise this month, now that the spring warmth tempts me outside. And the G1 twistable LCD is a dream for low level shots. A brilliant combination, Panasonic.
To start with my situation: I bought a Designjet 90 cheap (not working of course) as my first larger format printer, for my first attempt at selling my work. Replaced the heads first, everyone of them was clogged …. it wouldn’t print a thing.
On to your blog; thank you so much!!! So informative, so in depth, and written to be understood by all. I saw the blockage in my yellow tube right before I found your blog. Also the link to the service manual is awesome! I’ve been googling the heck out of yellow ink issues with the designjet 90 for hours…and you had the problem listed as a known issue. No I haven’t repaired it yet, but the thanks is in advance.
Sincerely, Thanks again for the information and all the other tips relating to the designjet line.
Kevin A Moore Seattle, WA
Thanks for the heads-up. And keep your info and observations coming.
I was lucky enough to receive, in 1971, the old Singer my Grandmother used all her life. I can even remember my father electrifying it for her when I was very young. I actually made my daughter’s baby clothes on the ancient machine – which remains a special memory for me. Especially since my Grandmother was long dead and would never see her Great-Grandchild. Thanks for the image and for rekindling a warm memory.
Nice pic. Reminds me of the Robert Frank streetcar photo from The Americans!
Michael –
It’s been haunting me where I first saw that and your comment had me rushing to my Frank book of ‘The Americans’ only to find you are right!
Why do we do these things? Are they merely triggered by conditional responses of memory?
Of course what puts Frank’s snap in a different league is that mean looking woman on the left.
What a picture.
But I confess, I had no recall of his picture until your mention of it.
Many thanks.
Gotta love those jeans and sneakers. Style, you know?
I think HCB may be sharing the secrets of life here, not just photography. I’ve watched this about 20 times already, and keep getting something new every time. I doubt there will ever be another HCB, he’s in a class of his own.
I too am on the edge. But at $599 (see Adorama link below), it is at least a touch more interest generating than at the feared one grand price point…..
I bought an M42/MFT adapter for $30 and an ancient yet pristine Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 for about 60 bucks 2 years ago. True, no AF or OIS, and it is heavy, but at 1/10th the price it sure works fine for me.
Another very useful little App, love the way it works across multiple displays – Thanks!
Dear Thomas,
I have silently followed your photographs since long time.
Leaving the digital/film discussion aside I guess your pictures lost some of the street soul since you went to digital, I could not say exactly what.
However these snaps were really awesome!
No matter is was Leica or G1, these were the best pic you ever posted in you site in years.
No words to describe the lady look, the moment … You know you got it.
I was wondering how great it would be in a grainy B/W version with the proper highlights recovered.
Congratulations,
Leandro.
I’ve been researching this issue. For screen calibration you could use these sensors with the open source argyll color management software and its dispcalgui counterpart. It looks like good software, runs on my hack, I haven’t got a sensor to test it yet.
Having just installed Lion on my Macbook (prior to risking it on my HackPro or iMac without prior testing) I wholeheartedly agree with all of these!
With a trackpad, the gestures that I’d got quite adept at are now all confused – the counter-intuitive scrolling being the worst, and Apple has the cheek to call the new default ‘natural’ scrolling!
I also use ‘All-in-one-Gestures’ in Firefox (my default browser) – that no longer works because of the general gesture changes with the trackpad.
Definitely a case of ‘one step forward, two steps back’. Dumbing down is right!
I tried the Argyll software plus Dispcalgui. Once I got it working (it’s a very raw product with a user interface only a software writer could love – it looks a bit like Windows before there was a Windows and the MSFT DOS command line ruled) it recognized my EyeOne right away, went through the calibration routine, allowed me to measure ambient light levels, and flashed color patches for the colorimeter to read in the usual way but …. it then refused to save the profile. That’s likely an OS X file permission issue but, frankly, life’s too short to mess with this sort of irritation and I don’t pretend to understand more than 5% of what the software UI discloses, so I’ll stick to the Snow Leopard method I discuss above. It’s a bit like a car maker pontificating on the timing of his engine’s spark ignition settings when all you want is for the bloody thing to start when you turn the ignition key.
Meanwhile, Xrite has emailed me promising that an Intel version of their profiling software will be available ‘soon’ at a ‘modest’ fee. Let’s hope that’s ‘soon’ as in Blitzkrieg not ‘soon’ as in the US Government extending its debt ceiling and paying its bills. Recent buyers of the EyeOne get the upgrade free, they said.
While Lion is inevitable, nothing forces one to be an early adopter. When the 0.1 version is available is the earliest for upgrade.
Yes exporting photographs in lightroom works much faster on multi-core.
Couldn’t agree more. You took the words right out of my mouth.
I seem to have a soft spot for anything that is worn down that was once so great. Photos of buildings and objects that are forgotten just inspire you to think of what they once were.
Thanks Thomas great article, it inspired me to build my own (thanks einstraus for putting me on to you). I have just succeeded getting Lion to run on my Hack’, I thought I would add my experiences and comments.
– I like your choice of components I was able to find everything (August 2011) …even in Canada!
– The graphics card GT430 comes in two guises – I tracked down the one in your illustration (2x DVI outputs) as opposed to the alternate with one DVI and one VGA. I think this is important in case you ever want to run a 27″ screen in which case both DVIs are needed to drive the monitor. (I’m not 100% sure on this, but there’s no upside to having the VGA output for me). (Editor’s note: This is not correct. Read this to understand the requirements for 27″ and 30″ LCD displays.
– Brand / model no.s of other components (RAM, HDDs, CD-ROM) is NOT critical – choice of MoBo and Graphics card IS!
– If you go for two 2.5″ HDDs then you need to come up with a way of mounting them in the Antec case which only provides space for one (right at the bottom). What I ended up doing was using tie-wraps to lash-down each HDD onto a 3.5″ tray sandwiching the silicone stand-offs (tray and stand-offs come with Antec case). I then grounded each HDD case to the Hack’ case using some multistrand wire. Alternatively you could buy tray adapters for $10 each!
– I opted for one 500 GB hybrid drive as you suggest, and one 120 GB Solid State which is big enough for the OS and Applications that I use.
– You should use anti-static tie-wraps inside the Hack’
– The fan on the CPU cooler blocks the 4th RAM slot. If I ever need it, I will move the fan to the other side (unclips easily), and perhaps re-wire it to suck rather than blow through the fins to maintain good air flow through the case
– Kakewalk (4.04) did 90% of the install, but I had to run MultiBeast (Ed. – He means Chameleon). before I could boot from the HDD. This took me a long time to work out…!
– TonyMacX86 is an excellent resource, use it!
Phew.
I tested my Hack’ (un-overclocked) and got a GeekBench32 score of 8938
The cost of my build excluding monitor, keyboard etc is about $850 (including Canadian taxes).
Thanks again Thomas, Kakewalk, and TonyMac
Re VirtualBox: could this be an alternative to the Hackintosh?
OS X running on standard Windows hardware is an attractive proposition. I’ve been tempted to build a Hackintosh, but without the services of an FU Steve it has seemed like too much of a science project for someone who has work to do and no need of another hobby.
Could VirtualBox be a plug-and-play Hackintosh?
Yes, but with a note of caution. There are performance trade offs (which I have not measured) as there’s a lot more code between you and OS X. Also, you will likely have some teething problems getting all your peripherals – printers, input devices, webcams, wireless and so on, working properly. But the cost of experimentation is very low. You can now buy OS Lion on a USB drive from Apple for $70 and Virtual Box is free. Why not give it a shot and document your experiences here?
Forgot to credit FU Steve – thanks for the components list and good advice!
I agree. They are so on the mark with design, yet so off the mark with the sensor that I want to scream. Throw a big(ish) sensor (aps-c) into a compact body with some basic glass, manual controls, and a solid viewfinder and you will not be able to keep it on the shelf. We all want the tactile usability of the ubiquitous camera’s like the canonet, or the fuji’s of the 60’s, but with the benefits of digital. Why is this so hard? They got close with the X100, really close, but this camera is a step farther away. From purely a design standpoint, I love it, and it looks like it would be more premium, and not an LX3 sensor in a Leica body.
I’m going to keep shooting with my current cameras until they die, by then maybe someone will simply manufacture a new camera according to a very specific list of desires in evidence all over the web.
I think the vast majority of buyers of this camera will be owners of DSLR’s of some vintage who remember the days of film rangefinders with some longing. I also think that Fuji has the larger sensor coming out in the future in an X10 like body. I will most likely buy an X10 as it will be a great snapshot and street photography camera, and the perfect camera for those times when you’re too smartly dressed to carry a tripod and proper dslr. I want my Fuji X10!
Rajan – I have written lots about it here – using both PT Lens and predecessors.
Type ‘QTVR’ in the search box at right – I have focused mainly on VR 360 panos, some of which you can view here. Much of the technique involved in assembling QTVRs decribed in these articles still applies with newer products as most use the same underlying pano engine, so all that information about control points remains valid.
Alternatively, click categories->photographty->technique->qtvr at right.
I wrote about PTLens here which has the advantage of working in Lion as no Rosetta PPC emulator is required.
The superb Canon 15mm Fisheye in conjunction with this software would be a great addition to your landscape arsenal at a fraction of the cost of the less effective Canon 14mm ‘L’ optic, whether you simply need an ultra-wide rectilinear result or want to render QTVRs.
The artistry of this old building really shines through. Living here in New York City it is sad to see so much new construction that is uninspired and so devoid of craft.
Great timing! I am considering purchasing a mirrorless system myself, and these real world examples give a good sense of what they can do.
So simple yet when I look at it i know there is something to which I was attracted. especially with the black and white effect.
I think it is an FX3, not an FX4, sir.
Nice site.
What a lovely Hopper-esque moment you have captured on Leidesdorff Street!
I really like this – so subtle but tells you so much.
I preordered one too in the end.
Hello there !
Just a quick word to thank you very much for this tutorial. After months of browsing the internet around hackintosh, I found your experience inspiring and decided to follow it. I did not have enough time to test my brand new machine, but I must say I’m already impressed by the ratio cost/performance !! Thank you again so much….
Laurent (from France)
Hi Tom,
I enjoy your blog a lot. Many of your old entries, such as this one, are prophetically on the mark. Here is a recent picture I took with the GH1 wearing a (borrowed) Elmar.
Yes folks, your tax dollars at work, thankfully so. This is truly an amazing link, thank you for sharing it. The last one and #21 really stand out to me, but I have to say that “Rosie Riveter” #66 is my immediate favorite. Just awesome.
Many more amazing ones, as the LOC has posted over a thousand of these on Flickr.
Thanks for this. I’ll definitely go down this route rather than sending this company more of my money. Man, they stung me with a no-free upgrade policy after I bought a very expensive early version of the eye-one Photo. I think I paid $1500 for something that will only profile monitors and will barely profile a printer.
GM/Xrite lost me as a customer right at the beginning, and this continued terrible software support only confirms my view. I’ll be dumping the sensor and buying something less expensive when I finally get fed up with booting up SL to profile my monitors.
Nice theme!
It sort of works on Android tablets too. On my Asus Eee Transformer the menu entries are smaller than on the iPad.
You might want to get rid of the message box saying that you only see the message on the first visit on the iPad or iPhone. On the Android tablet you see it over and over again each time you hit the back button, it’s very confusing.
Thanks for the heads up, I ordered the book from Bill’s site. Even though it meant I had to pay a higher price than on Amazon, the CA tax and shipping fees from Mountain View to Mountain View 🙂
It’s a reminder to get an iPad! More seriously, the theme app used does not currently make provision for disabling that message.
P.S. you are a brave street snapper, I wouldn’t want to get Miss Pink mad at me.
Completely agree. I posted about this today (http://littlelogos.tumblr.com/) and then started reading up on who else might think the same thing.
I think it should be a body and help create an app and hardware ecosystem. Nice post.
Nice! Inspired by one your older posts, I built a Core i7-2600k machine to replace my aging first generation MacPro. I went with the P67 mobo with 16GB Corsair RAM. Here is the geekbench for that machine:
I put in it an insane amount of disk space, something you cannot do on a MacPro even if you want: I have 8 x 3TB drives, setup in a hardware RAID 6 using an Areca board. MacOS X works beautifully with it.
Great shot. Of all of the street shots I’ve seen on your site, this one resonates the most. Maybe because for most of my life I’ve been a wearer of hats. it also is a great demonstration of what that camera and lens combination can create. It just makes me feel good on many levels. Thanks
An impressive result Thomas, nicely presented.
My New Year’s Resolutions list has its first item it seems…
That is a highly striking example of that technique/manipulation in play! I am confused about the books though, they are not part of the mural, are they? But they kind of become part of it in a nice way.
I tried the Beta software on a new MacBook Air that came loaded with Lion. The first problem was that I could not match the brightness. The brightest setting on the MBA was said by the new software to measure only 104, and that was far brighter than anything I would use. The profile it came up with made everything look horribly pink, so I reverted to the laptop default, and ran the Apple calibration utility. Since I use the laptop on-site only to judge composition and focus, this is really no big deal. I can live just fine with the display as is. I am using Snow Leopard on a desktop with an Epson 3800 printer, for which the i1 Display 2 works fine. It is the only program that is preventing me from upgrading to Lion, but I can’t rationalize the cost of a new Display Pro. Oh well, I will try again when the software leaves Beta.
Seems like the Hackintosh is a bit like getting plastic surgery, or a tattoo. . . the more you get done the more you get. Thanks for your insight and sharing your info here. Made my first build much easier.
If you come to Canada anytime soon (I’m an hour and a half from Banff) I’ll buy you an ale, or a local microbrew.
Bruce, golden, BC, Canada
I have no use for Mac info but could not help but wonder if you waited for just the right moment for the red label to appear on the lower third before snapping the TV picture. Or was it when the sound of Queen’s English filled the room?
Thanks for putting this online… my dj90 is being colourblind also… think my yellow print head is at fault. meh
Hi,
Thank you for your nice article on The HackMini.
I like your good writing.
Thanks
Thank you!
Your information is much better than what HP publish. I’ve been having troubles all day.
Pfew! It is nice to know that I am not alone, I was beginning to wonder.
“Be there and f/8” is all that matters.
Thanks for the tutorial. It’s great! If you are using an outside vendor for printing, what do you select for Profile under color management?
The better printing vendors will provide you with profiles to use, or will advise you of which paper they use so that you can download the appropriate profile from the paper maker’s site. I address how to use non-HP profiles in this piece.
If I didn’t already have a copy of this beautiful book, I would indeed order another. It’s a masterful work and both the photography and the printing of the book itself are superb. Definitely a must have!
“I will cease publishing exposure data with my snaps. I mean, c’mon, who cares? It’s an auto-everything world in any case.”
The world is changing too fast for us in the doddering segment. We can’t harumph and say “that would’ve looked better if he had used Agfa Ultra 50″ – so at least leave in the EXIF data for those of us that need such comforting.
” and computers as they relate to the topic”
I would be happy if you continue talking about computers in general. Certainly your sagas regarding your hackintosh and home theater projects are excellent guides to anyone taking the plunge into either area.
Just downloaded your lens profiles and they’re working nicely. It’s very public spirited of you to make them available, and I commend you for that. I’m also very happy to be turned on to your blog!
Hello Thomas Pindelski,
If IMDB is not mistaken, “The Big Sleep” was released in 1946.
I enjoy your site. Keep up the action!
Hmmm. Wikipedia has it as 1939. Oh!, that’s the book. You are right – the movie is 1946.
Thomas,
love the bike. I’ve been shopping for one recently and have heard nothing but good about them. Visceral indeed. Great post.
Cheers,
(a youngster) Jonathan Marsh
Thanks, this is a great find!
It was indeed an excellent drama-documentary, with all the characters well-formed and as close to the originals as it’s possible to be. I thought the closing credits, where they showed the Bailey originals of the photographs depicted being made in the film, proved exactly how good their attention to detail was.
As for old cameras, I used to have a Pentax SV, but I certainly wasn’t well-heeled! I replaced it with a Nikon FM, which I still have. I took a photo a couple of years back of a friend’s FM – this is how a late-1970s Nikon FM looks today – still in use, still working fine, no sandpaper applied…
Excellent article, however I have the same network card TL-WN951N 300 Mbps, and is getting Kernel Panics with my configuration … So how did you get it to work with an i5 and Lion??? My configuration is an Intel Extreme DX58SO, i7 950, 6Gb Kingston Hyper Tri-Channel, XFX HD6870 1Gb DDR5, and I installed Lion 10.7.2, and I constantly get KPs and the dreaded 809c: Unknown locale error, so if you can give me a tip of how did you get the TL-WN951N to work fine I will really appreciate, what kexts or hacks did you use?
Because I wanted to use AirDrop in Lion I have migrated to a PCMCIA card with a Broadcom wifi card which has the related benefit that it supports 5gHz 802/11n (in addition to 2.4gHz) and requires no kexts – plug-an-play – and behaves just like Airport in a Mac. You can read about it here. Uses one short slot on your motherboard.
Hi Thomas – I’m glad you liked the movie. It will actually be showing in the USA – from 11 February at 8pm ET/9pm PT on the Ovation Network.
I’m also pleased you caught on that Aneurin did well with his cameras – he was very hard-working in studying how to handle them. In actual fact, he surprised us at the end of shooting by producing a fantastic album of on-set pictures: it turned out that every time he had to be using a camera in a scene, he loaded real film and really shot! He presented Bailey with a copy of the album when they met for a Vogue photoshoot later last summer – you can see them looking at it together in the behind-the-scenes short we made, which comes with the DVD. An excerpt was posted on fashion/photography site Nowness, here –
Thomas…you’re awesome for posting all this info and including the helpful links! I was leaving my DJ unplugged (for fear that our frustratingly frequent city power outages would fry the power unit) and didn’t even think/know about how it affected the ink.
Here’s a tip for you…buy HP inks on ebay and you’ll save around 50% of what you’d pay at Atlex!
Best Regards.
Carmen – Thanks for the kind words. However, I do not agree with your suggestion to buy inks on eBay. eBay is the repository of more crooks than are in our prison system. Many of these cartridges are outdated and will not work (the DJ checks age on the cartridge’s chip). Other have been illicitly refilled with aftermarket inks which variously destroy the printer or fade rapidly once the print is made. Saving on cartridges is the ultimate false economy if you care about the longevity of your printer and prints.
As regards the power outages, simply get a small surge suppressor and install it between printer and power. $20. Then leave the printer plugged in (but switched off) at all times.
I think on a color chart, Adobe RGB colorspace is twice the area of the sRGB color space. So to measure a color with the same resolution in Adobe RGB as in sRGB, you need twice the number of values, i.e., an additional bit. So I think if you’re happy with 12-bit sRGB, you’d want 13-bit Adobe RGB. Of course, your choices are 12-bit and 14-bit, so you should choose 14-bit Adobe RGB, or in color gamut restricted situations (are there any such?) 14-bit sRGB. At least, so it seems to me.
While Ken R*ckw*ll may be an acquired taste, I found his guide for the Nikon D200 a good way to distill info from the manual. He has one for the D700 here:
Excellent result Thomas – handsome young fellow indeed, wish him Happy Birthday!
I’ve used the tethered D700/Lightroom/MacBook combo several times, sitters really appreciate it although I find we end up taking approximately 100% more shots than I would left to my own judgement! The results pay off though.
These fish images are fantastic, they line up perfectly and look delicious…well half of them do anyway! 😉
What a great review, I had not heard about this company. I see that they have a smaller sized bag, e.g. for the lumix G and lenses. Timely, as the compact grey swiss army bag I picked up for 8 bucks 30 years ago is finally showing signs of functional wear.
I have a G3 and have been lusting after a D700, so this is pretty interesting to me. Thanks!
Hello,
i am having the same problems.
The Utilty does not work on imac with 10.7 nor on Win7, both connected with USB.
I do have to try your solution to delete everything on my imac befor reinstalling.
The HP Webpages do not have the information you linked anymore and its not clear to me which tool i really have to install so that it will work.
i replaced the black ink and the black head but its not better.
I am glad you posted the pictures here, so i will try to clean heads on the printer itself. hope this will work.
Yes HP is a poor company on support but the printers are really great.
Cheers
Reto
Thanks for the great review. In particular, Apple isn’t clear that the optical out is a Toslink, so your verification of that has been very helpful.
“Oppilas” = “Student” in Finnish. 🙂
I’ve made the trip to my wit’s end and back with this identical problem. At this point, I am still unable to get the System Maintenance Utility to run on my 2010 iMac running Snow Leopard. Yes, I’ve spent time on the phone with HP tech support. No luck so far. What I cannot understand is why they just can’t be honest and admit that they haven’t fulfilled their end of the consumer/supplier bargain. When I began this nightmare I had not, yet, surfed the web to find information about a fix, and other unhappy HP customers in the same predicament. I’ve done Epson and I’ve done HP. Over the years, I’ve had similar experiences with both companies, although to be fair, Epson was ultimately able to solve my problem. Thus far, HP has not.
At this point in time, I have a fix: I use an old G4 PowerMac running OS 10.4 connected to the HP 90 via network card to run the HP Utility. Yes, I had to purchase and install a network card on the 90 rather than switch around USB cables, so both old and new Macs are connected to the 90 all the time. This provides a quick software-based solution to my needs (I am a full time, freelance graphic designer). I currently have 2 HP printers and one Epson large format Photo Printer. Might be my last HP printer purchase however.
This is one man’s story.
Author’s comment: I adopt a similar approach, using a G4 iMac. Life’s too short to mess with HP’s inappropriately named ‘Support’. What would you expect from the worst run company in America, which is on its fourth CEO in five years?
Oh man! with a 20mm you must’ve been close enough to know what cologne they use 🙂
Did he up your 20mm with a 9mm?
Nice job!!!
Hi Thomas.
Thank you for taking the time to provide this excellent information.
In LR4 is there any way to get “Enable Profile Corrections” under “Lens Corrections” to be enabled by default? I’m sure it’s obvious but unfortunately not obvious enough for me.
Thanks in advance,
Bob Tobias
Author’s reply: Yes, there is. Check this link where I am placing all profiles I create.
“Although the Vogue piece didn’t mention it, the photos that accompanied the article — of Asmara, her husband and two of their children at home in Damascus — were facilitated by an American public-relations firm working for the Syrian government. The firm, Brown Lloyd James, was paid $25,000 to set up a photo session with James Nachtwey, the famed war photographer who shot the pictures for Vogue.”
““Our firm’s role was limited to liaising between the two sides to schedule logistics for the piece in November 2010,†the company said in a statement this week. It said it began working for the Syrian government “during a thaw†in relations with the U.S. and during a period when “the international community was encouraging increased engagement with Syria.â€
The use of an agent in lieu of the principal to retain the photographer in no way relieves the latter of his ethical obligations.
The use of an agent in lieu of the principal to retain the photographer in no way relieves the latter of his ethical obligations.
Wholeheartedly agree. Just wanted to point out that there is a whole network of “respectable” but ethically challenged people out there. Nachtwey is probably just a symptom.
I recall reading similar puff pieces about the Shah of Iran, for instance, in the Reader’s Digest. And on Empress Farah. Then the Shah was overthrown. Then, in my undergrad dorm, there was someone whose father had worked in Iran as a civil engineer during the Shah’s time, and he told me the tales of people terrorized by the Iranian secret police, the Savaak, under the Shah. You wouldn’t hear that in the media, though. The Shah and his wife were similarly portrayed as wonderful people. Not to say those who replaced him are any better. But maybe the truth would have served us better.
I’ve been thinking about making the leap from AMD to Intel just so I can have a setup like this, after reading this I am very persuaded. Thanks.
The first image is quite amazing, among many wonderful ones that you post. Curiously, it instantly reminded me of your ’70s B&W image of the woman observing the statue in the park. I would have to go look at that one again to figure out why, but maybe it is the way the sleeping man’s body is positioned/contorted. What a catch!
Thanks for the kind words. This is the image you are thinking of, and the technical data are easy to remember, even if the snap is some 40 years old. You see, that’s the only camera and lens I owned back then!
Reg Butler sculpture, Holland Park, London, 1973.
Leica M3, 50mm DR Summicron, Tri-X processed in D76.
I wonder what stuff from the current day will last a generation and be considered well- engineered 30 years from now.
Thanks for the nice ad from the past. On my first ever visit to Westlicht, the sign on an empty store next door says that “The Impossible Project” had moved 3 blocks away. After browsing the fine “Show place for Photography” I walked the 3 blocks and found the polaroid film store which showed all kinds of vintage polaroid cameras. Here are some snaps.
I miss your commentary on mirrorless cameras. I’ve just been learning how to use the Olympus EM-5. The 12-50 zoom that I purchased with the camera works reasonably well and the 45mm f1.8 is superb. I bought the 100-300 mm Panasonic and have found that it is very slow focusing and the EVF of the Oly reacts slowly to the zoom at the top end. I long for some good fast telephoto lenses for the micro 4/3 systems, May investigate the old Canon lenses for use with an adapter.
Gary E
Wow, that’s pretty cool! I didn’t know that add-on CPUs supported this feature. I’m guessing it’s exclusive to the model you have purchased?
Thanks in general for this series of posts about the D700 and manual-focus lenses! I’m using a D200 with a decent selection, but I’m using a Katz-eye screen with the traditional split-screen focusing.
A year later, I wonder if you’ve got your unit yet. Back then I was thinking about how one can achieve this with the technology at hand. This is the result of my crude experiment.
You can click on the thumbnails below the picture to change plane of focus. From there, it should not be a great leap to move the click area to parts of the picture itself.
Author’s note: I passed on the Lytro. Reports suggest it’s poorly implemented and image quality is low.
Should work fine on my hacked $130 Nook Color with Android 4 – but the mounting is awful.
Thomas – great information and just what I’m looking for. As a serious but amateur photographer I am wondering whether I can work with on-board graphics chips satisfactorily, or whether it is necessary to have a separate GPU board (not that they cost a lot). I run PS5 and Lightroom + DxO most the time. Do you have any recommendation on that? Also is it worth going over 8GB RAM if I’m not doing video stuff (although I might in the future). Any comments from you or FU Steve would be appreciated. Nice photos on your website too.
Regards
Colin
Author’s comment:
Hi, Colin.
Thanks for your kind words.
That’s a very timely question on integrated GPUs.
Until recently I would have said go with a separate board. However, the new IvyBridge Intel i5 and i7 CPUs which will be out in new MacBooks any day now, change that. based on my reading of Anandtech (a very reputable site with great CPU insights and knowledge) the GPU in IvyBridge is more than any still photographer needs. As usual, I would junk the stock fan and go with an aftermarket one – the Coolermaster 212 I use in my machines is but $30 or so.
Wait a while for the Hackintosh boards to explain how to enable the integrated GPU in a Hack. It usually takes a little while. The IvyBridge is just hitting the market here and I would go with the i5 ($50 less), and overclock it if you want i7 speeds. Another reason to get a better cooler. I have been running my SandyBridge (immediate predecessor to Ivy) 7/24 overclocked from 3.3 to 4gHz and it’s perfect. If you contemplate overclocking, be sure to het the ‘K’ version of the CPU – that means i5 3570K for the latest IvyBridge.
Price wise it’s a push. A Sandybridge and a decent GPU will run you $215 + $60. An IvyBridge will run you $250. the Ivy’s GPU is much improved over the3 one in the Sandybridge.
As for memory, don’t chintz. It;s so insanely cheap that 16gB makes sense for PS and LR. I notice a welcome speed increase going from 8 to 16. Will 8 suffice? yes. But the extra 8gB for, what, $50, is something you will appreciate. And don’t get 1333 RAM, go for 1600. That’s an instant 20% speed gain for pennies.
Thomas
I picked up a 135mm/3,5 AI – i.e. the model subsequent to this. It makes a great and pocketable 200mm (effective) lens for APS-C bodies. It is a cracking lens with beautiful bokeh, great sharpness and marvellous colours and is mechanically tip top despite its age – it looks like it was never used by its previous owner. For 32€ (ebay) the best piece of equipment I ever bought. Highly recommended!
My favorite is 4747, where I see the loving connection between father and son.
I read your posts every night, greatly enjoying both their technical and artistic aspects.
I am impressed with and enjoy your knowledge of art, culture and history, a real gentleman.
Thank you,
Paul
PS: I’d appreciate your comments on my work.
A remarkable work of art
Beautiful; thank you.
Gear can be an expensive hobby in itself 🙂
I am chuckling.
I just downloaded this new Kindle Single, thought you might be interested.
I bought one back in 1980, with my first camera an FG. Hated the FG, but I loved the lens.
Great writing, great pix, some at high noon. Yeah.
And thanks for Mdme Yevonde the other day: art deco at its finest.
Best wishes,
Paul
V is for Vent got my attention for composition, contrast and the interplay of shapes.
Then I noticed all those V words are in Romanian.
Paul
Beautiful.
This happens to be my son in law and grandson. So I’m not at all prejudiced. We are thrilled with this picture and the comments made. You have captured them both. They are as you see them. Bruce is a wonderful stay at home Dad. And Oliver is a happy guy who loves hanging out with Daddy.
Great writing. Well said.
hi Thomas, first of all, thanks very much for your review of this lens, I think so far, you are the only one that focus on the distortion of the lens quite details. So its very useful. Thanks again
2nd, i just have a quick question, what do you think of this lens for interior architecture? As im a bit worry about the distortion (and its impossible to find any examples since everybody is taking this lens outdoor). The reason being, I don’t want to spend time on every single photos to correct it in Lightroom (of course i can, but i rather not). So Im not sure how would it fair without correction? I shoot them in raw so the auto correct on the Olympus wouldnt help I guess. I dont need it to be very accurate, but usable without the users noticing much about the distortion.
the reason being im deciding between this and the Nikon 20mm for my Nikon system. As I have owned the 20mm in the past I know it was exceptional well in handling distortion, so so much better than my 24-70mm at 24@. So i know i do have the results i want from the Nikon, but I try not to bring my heavy Nikon to assignments when i don’t have to. And obviously, the Olympus is gonna help for my travel purpose as well. Not only for work. So Its pretty hard to make a decision.
Thanks Thomas.
If you download and install the lens correction profile for the Olympus which I published here it will be automatically applied when you import files to LR, assuming you use RAW. Since I originally created these profiles I have learned how to include profiles for different focal lengths all in one file, and this is the profile I am making available in that link, so the LR or PS user no longer even needs to select the appropriate profile for the focal length used. Thus the additional work the user has to do to pick and apply the best profile is zero. The Olympus, with my lens correction profile, is an excellent lens for architecture, especially when used with the latest Panny sensors found in the GH2 and G3, which will render more detail with less noise than their other sensors.
I use the Nikkor Ai-S f/3.5 version but all the other MF ones (f/3.5 UD, f/4, f/2.8) have great reputations – and if you use FF (D3/4, D800/E, D700) will allow larger prints to be made than MFT. On APS-C the 20mm makes no sense, as it becomes an expensive 30mm and Panny’s latest sensors are close to APS-C in performance.
Finally, the MFT lens offers incredible compactness, a useful zoom range and a light, small outfit with any Panny or Oly body. The primary advantage of FF is if you need prints over 24″, as I have proved time and again. That means MFT works for most users. – Ed.
Hadn’t been on your site since the first of the year..I can’t believe how awesome it is. Beautiful photos, video, great info on your camera.
great stuff, thanks so much for your reply. I’m set with the Olympus, it still has the advantage of being a great zoom lens compare to the prime Nikon 20mm i was deciding. After all, I only shoot at F8 for most of my work (using that lens).
Thanks again, have a great day Thomas.
Cheers
LINH
These are stunning.
Great pointer on Maxwell. I am an Electrical Engineer by training, but one class I could not grasp then was Electromagnetic waves. I doubt that I can do better if I were to pick up Maxwell Equations again today. Perhaps too much iodine in my shrimp?
This is an amazing shot! I know exactly where you were standing. I have taken this same picture. I could see the Golden Gate bridge in the distance. But I didn’t believe it was possible to capture it from there. Obviously it was. My guess is that there are very few photographers who can do this! Congrats!
Hi , did you ever find out why the LCD won’t work when the remote is attached? Or a way to fix it?
No and Yes. If you fit this receiver and use the pass-through 2.5mm cable to connect the radio remote receiver, the LCD display functions normally. As the provided receiver 9-pin cable is not used in this configuratiom, this suggests the cable provided is incorrectly wired and is shutting down the rear LCD display. If you do not use the GPS receiver linked here, then I do not know of any other fix other than rewiring the provided 9-pin cable, which is likely impossible as the whole thing is sealed. – Ed.
Fantastic work !!
a 20mm/f3.5Ai and 35-70mm/f2.8 are the two lenses I use most !!!
You could also mention, that to use those profiles on .tiff files, one can easily convert them directly in Lightroom to DNG (using Export function).
thanks
Andy
Yeaa, I was wondering whether the twain tracks shall ever meet. My favorite MF lens for the GH2 is the Rokkor (also) 50mm f1.4 from my vintage Minolta of 1979. For low light video, the kit lens just does not cut it. For this short piece, I started shooting with the kit lens, but everything turned up dark. Immediately switched to f1.4 and the scenery came to light. The shallow DOF also worked to my advantage. Manual focusing with mechanical linkage is a joy compared to the focus-by-wire servo linkage of the kit lens. Like driving a manual tranny car. But you are right, for most well lit situations, the kit lens is hard to beat. Just curious, my MFT adapters allow you to focus slightly beyond infinity. Exactly to infinity would be preferable. Does yours do that too?
Yes, mine focus slightly past infinity. Additionally, lenses like the 500 Reflex Nikkor are made to focus way past infinity, to allow for thermal changes. – Ed.
I worked there for nearly 10 years from 1970 and watched as the union and the executives slowly bled the company to death. Every time a new contract was signed the union would wildcat strike while the executives would be stealing from our pension fund behind our backs. On hundreds of occasions I saw people working double and triple shifts but only producing about 15 minutes of work and sleeping or drunk the rest of the time. Fatalities were a daily event. They had vacation plans that were ridiculous. The senior hourly employees would get up to six months a year off for vacation. I loved working in the steel industry but it’s too bad places like this were rotted from the inside by greed.
Well said!
Terrific.
I’m in love with my 50mm 1.4
Was my first nikkor lens, and no matter what camera come to my hands, I just take off his lens and set my 1.4
Many thanks for the profiles.
Lightroom has had perspective correction (leaning verticals) since Lightroom 3, with a much better user interface than Photoshop to boot. There is really no reason to use PS, which is a good thing, since to paraphrase Borges, each successive version of Photoshop makes you long for the previous one (due to accreted bloat and bugs).
Horses for courses. There are lots of reasons to use PS, especially CS5 (Content Aware Fill) or CS6 (moving elements). It depends on your needs. But a doctrinaire sweeping statement like yours that there “…. is really no reason to use PS ….” in not helpful. Next time you want to accurately outline an element – right down to the finest wisps of hair – in a picture to change it, try doing that without Photoshop. Further the perspective correction in LR is very crude compared to what’s available in PS, as I have illustrated here before. Links download instructional videos. – Ed.
So what does LR4 do to the settings on a LR3-processed RAW? Does it translate them faithfully?
Once you ‘convert’ to LR4 both versions are retained – you can revert to LR3. The conversions are mostly the same but in high contrast snaps I find the default LR4 conversion has a better dynamic range. However, once you start using the sliders (renamed in LR4) the ability to recover highlights and enhance shadows is significantly greater. The underlying RAW file remains unchanged, of course. – Ed.
Also, have you noticed whether LR4 is better in handling high-ISO noise?
No. I found the big jump in noise handling was in going from LR2 to LR3 which brought far better retention of detailed when trying to eliminate noise. ‘Smearing’ was largely gone. LR4 seems unchanged in that respect from LR3, judging from G1 and G3 originals at ISO 1600 – Ed.
Thanks for the very useful info. I have a 100Plus and while I am having different issues to what you describe I was still able to use a lot of this information.
Definitely black and white. The colors are kind of flat for my taste. But the black and white really works and emphasizes the great geometry and shapes in the shot.
So I’ve upgraded to LR4 from LR3.
Sound move – Ed.
Dear Sir, Thank you so much for this journal entry on the Linhof S168 tripod. I’ve been looking for a tripod and exploring the vintage models on eBay, mostly of the Gitzo persuasion. But a photo forum suggested the name Linhof and I found about a half dozen possibilities, that is under $300.00. One listing said the Linhof tripod they were offering, model S168, extended to 80″ which I thought must be a typo (maybe 60″?). So I searched and found you and the Linhof S168. Very happy I did. Your picture, wrestling with this tripod, convinced me that this was the tripod for my 6’5″. The height, along with all its other virtues you extolled, made me hurry back and make the purchase. The seller even has the original box. I will certainly take your advice and find a ball and socket head to replace the “amateur pan tilt head”. I’m looking at the Novoflex Mini Magic. With that combination, like you, I’ll have a companion for life – or perhaps beyond. Sincerely yours, Kim
After using LR4 on about 60 photographs, my observations:
1. Overall LR4 Develop is improved over LR3.
2. I find I have to dial up the clarity by a few compared to LR3 to get the same look.
3. I sometimes wish the lens corrections was the second item on the workflow after white balance. This is because lens corrections fixes vignetting which makes the photograph brighter and I have to visit the other controls again.
Thomas,
This is one of the funniest reviews I have read. And very useful too, covering not just the Kindle but a host of other subjects too. Thank you very much for brightening up a dull Monday morning in the UK.
Jay
works great on my d3100. i started with a t mount adapter on ebay to check out the chip. i loved it. i have modified 2 glue ons so far. i take note of the back of the lens if it dosent have the ledge im not messin with it, for now. thanks for the info. be blessed
Are there any Thunderbolt peripherals where the advantage of Thunderbolt is painfully obvious over the competition? Or will Thunderbolt be the technically superior option that goes the way of Firewire?
None that I can find at affordable prices, and the cables are wildly expensive. For storage USB3 will do, and for displays only the criminally insane will pay $1000 for AAPL’s glossy ones with poor gamut. Further, PCs compete on price, not features, so don’t look for competition to bring down prices, as few are adopting this technology – Ed.
What about the 11″ screen size when lightroom panels are displayed. Is there still enough room for the photo or do you have to set the panels to hide automatically (which i dislike)?
It’s tight. I hide them, but manually – F5, F7 and F8. Ed.
Thanks for posting your observations, it’s super helpful to get an idea of Lightroom performance on the new 2012 MBA. I perfer the air size over the new retina 15, the price helps too.
I noticed a minor typo for raw files sizes, should be MB.
Thanks – fixed. Ed.
Have the latest version (chrome ring) and love it. Would never sell it!
You are a life saver – well, okay, not actually, but certainly a SANITY saver. I, too, am an amateur who LOVES my D90R, except when I HATE it! It does go from perfect to dysfunctional in a heartbeat. I have learned to stockpile one each of the printheads. Your tips for fixing the thing have come in handy on a number of occasions. Thank you, thank you!
I wonder what your experience has been with the “new, improved, fast drying” HP Premium Plus Satin paper. It has been the only paper I have used for photo projects for years, but I am distraught with the new version. The color does not match my screen (tends to green) and fades within months. I tried in vain to talk with HP-no-English-support and that was just an exercise in futility. I quickly ordered a couple of rolls of the 18 x 50″ paper, as this does not seem to be “new and improved” yet. Do you have any alternatives for letter size paper to recommend?
I have switched to HP Glossy so I’m afraid I have no experience of the new HP Satin. – Ed.
A triumph indeed, and one whose significance is shared by this armchair space traveller who missed the announcement when it happened due to the news coverage being swamped by some sporting event or other that appears to be taking place over here in the UK.
Pulgas means fleas in English. I wonder why did they pick this name.
Mountain Lion requires 64-bit hardware to install, but that has no bearing on running 32-bit apps (Office 2011, anyone?)
There’s no ’64 bit only’ hurdle, software-wise.
You mention that after installing the yellow tube that you went through the priming sequence. Can you please tell me what that is. I’ve had printhead problems with my hp 130 since it came out of the box. I have no less than 10 printheads which are probably fine but hp has replaced to shut me up. Each time that was their fix. 20 days prior to warranty expiration they finally sent out a service tech. Who was great, but, 30 days after his visit the machine started the same mess. Guess what, now without payment they won’t help because my machine is out of warranty. Sorriest bunch of thugs I’ve ever dealt with. After writing to the chairman of the board for hp they did call me and tell me that the service tech must have forgotten to prime the machine—which I don’t believe, because the machine worked fine for 30 days. Anyhooo, hp had me go through a series of head standing, cord unplugging while at the same time pushing button process. By which you needed to be a 3 handed person with contortionistic tendancies to manover. At any rate—it worked and my machine has functioned perfectly since up til about 3 weeks ago. I suspect the machine has lost it’s prime as I am a low volume user. I think that may be the problem with the yellow is that is has a tendancy to loose it’s prime more easily. Don’t know, I’m obviously not as versed as you on these little monsters but, could you please put up the button pushing recipe for priming. Best Regards, Ginger, AR
Ginger –
I leave mine plugged in (which keeps the head warmer on) and do not need to prime even after months of non-use.
Download the service manual linked here. Go to pages 4-2 and 4-8.
Keep the manual – it’s well written and invaluable for, as you have already confirmed, the worst run Fortune 100 company with its annual CEO changes sure as hell is not going to help you. This was a great comnpany when I was a Mech Eng student (UC London, class of ’73) but of course some jerk-off sold the one great thing they had going – their measurement and instrumentation business.
Mercifully all parts remain easily available – the links you need are here. The worst case may be you have clogged feed tubes or bad heads. But you should only need to prime new feed lines once.
– Ed.
Thank you. After two evenings of surfing HP’s diagnostic services and customer support (accurately and evocatively described above) I still did not know I could clean my own printhead.
Great stuff! We’ve directed our readers to your blog. =)
Thank you very much! This cuts it for me; I’ll soon be happily on my way to get a high-end 11″ MBA. Keep the reviews coming, please!
hello Thomas
no retina? I’d figure retina is more useful on a smaller screen than on a big one. I hold my 4S iphone closer than I do my iPad2, and the two feel the same in image quality at their natural reading distances. Guess I’d be holding the Mini somewhere in between? Not that I will, my product lifecycle is four years si I’ll be there for, what, the iPad5?
The problem with the Retina Display is twofold – cost and production. Cost would make it uncompetitive and right now manufacturers are not geared up for the sort of volume the iPad Mini will command – Ed.
On professional sports, and even overhyped non- professional sports, I’m in complete agreement with you. The stakes to the athletes and/or the industry of gambling on sports results are so high that widespread cheating is a necessary outcome. If there is significant gambling money on auto racing, I don’t think it can be immune to prearranged outcomes.
Regarding patents, I agree that the patent holder rights should be protected. On the other hand especially in the space of software and business process patents, I think too much is granted patents. For instance, how unobvoius is it that one can have text-to-speech software read email and put a voice message in your voice messages? I believe this kind of thing has been granted a patent.
spot on, Thomas
hard to disagree with you
especially re BMW’s iDrive. Does not deserve the i before the Drive. As much as I love the drive, I can’t fathom the i…
having said all of the above, have you ever tried the shameful Android interface?
with foes like that, Apple can rest for a while longer…
A related problem with Android is the sheer number of versions of the OS out there, further crippled by the fact that many handset makers refuse to allow installation of the latest version. This is their way of forcing hardware upgrades, whereas iOS6 will be installable on iPhones all the way back to the 3GS. So much for the argument that Apple forces planned obsolescence on users. In reality, this is a trick used by Android handset manufacturers.
the iPad2 is already left behind? retina has become a must? shame…
Well I for one won’t be upgrading any time soon.
But hopefully my recent Retina purchase will pay for one or two of Winston’s classes at Harvard 🙂
The pano mode is certainly impressive – a lot more so than Apple Maps!
It seems that if you live in Scotland you are hopelessly lost, with most of it being covered in cloud…come back Steve, all is forgiven! (well, almost all).
OK, maybe a few minutes, anyway:
There’s a rumored new feature in iOS7 which will greatly enhance maps.
All southern states will be missing.
That idyllic place on the banks of the Charles River.
Ah, Santo, but those are special, and taken with my all time favorite lens, the 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor.
Part 2 please!
I second the above comment on the Gandhi image. I must say, you were clearly on quite a tear during that walk, this is a pretty remarkable post!
I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to write this blog post and document the process. My HP 130 was in enforced cold storage (I really had no choice) and of course threw the largest fit when I turned it back on. Thanks to your post and the brilliant manual I identified the problem, found parts and repaired it. Now it’s running well and happily ensconced in it’s new position and will not get turned off.
Best wishes Rosie
Who was responsible for releasing Apple Maps before its time? That was a serious goof-up.
A weak CEO who was steamrollered by a strong subordinate he could not control.
What is Apple’s product design to production time for products like the iphone 5, ipad mini? Either Apple is very fast or else I think these designs were on the roadmap while Steve Jobs was around.
It is certain that Jobs reversed himself on small tablets and approved the Mini – one of his henchmen has stated this. Time to market for the Mini is very low as there is zero innovation in the product. The iPhone 5 is less clear as the in-glass capacitive touch screen is a very recent development, though that suggests a very short design period. Other than the display there is no innovation in iPhone 5. A part-alloy rear replacing a glass one is hardly innovative – iPhone 1 had a part-alloy back. The reason that the rear of the iPhone 5 is not all alloy is to confer enhanced radio transparency, so glass is used like in the iPhone 4/4S. iPhones 1, 3G and 3GS used a plastic strip (1) or all plastic (3G/GS) for the same reason.
Thus a solid argument can be made that AAPL’s blow out year was nothing more than a reflection of Jobs’s coattails. Giving credit to Cook is mistaken, IMO. Another reason to doubt that the right person was chosen as CEO. Innovation? How about Siri and Maps? Both will be fixed soon enough but the guy responsible was just fired.
You are a GENIUS! HP Should PAY you for your work. This printer has been driving me crazy for the longest time. And you are correct. When you call HP they agree to HELP for Credit Card Payment. While they 100% DO take the Payment THEY DON’T 100% HELP! One time I was told by a tech, “If I need the prints so badly I should have bought one of their better printers.” I was fuming. At least you told us how to use the confounded control panel.
About Apple Maps, without knowing anything about Apple, I’d have guessed the following. Google potentially knows the location at each instant of anyone using Google maps, and also what they search for and when, and this is valuable information, perhaps an annual billion dollar revenue stream, which can be sold to marketers, advertisers, etc. (The more you can tie the location information into demographics, social media circles of influence, interests – gleaned from keywords in email, for instance – and so on, the more valuable this information is.)
So it seems to me that corporate strategy said, shut this competitor’s advantage down, and insisted on doing it by such-and-such date even though the engineers probably advised that the Apple maps was not ready for prime time. Therefore on the face of it, I would guess it was the corporate types twisting the arms of the software guys, rather than a weak CEO unable to contain a strong software chief. Of course, Apple is not a normal company, and I have no insight into how decisions are actually made there. In any other company, I think the story I have narrated would be close to the truth.
Yes, maybe the reviewers didn’t mention flares because it wasn’t an issue for them. I got a 20mm lens and the technical quality of shots cannot match those on flickr using the same lens on the same gf1 body. There are flares on nightshots everywhere on streetlights, car lights, traffic lights. It makes the photograph unusable. If there is a quality control issue then who is going to say so ?
I doubt it’s QC. Just poor design and a corrupted ‘review’ cadre, beholden to Panny’s big bucks.
I beg to differ on the lens hood comment. Even the Leica Summarit 75mm benefits a lot from a hood against veiling glare. I don’t have the money for the APO-Summicron though.
Great father & son picture. If I am not mistaken the car belongs to the Orient Express which Hercule Poirot once rode. The letters on the wagon (and on the center emblem) reads: “Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits et des Grands Express Europaens.” Amtrak it is not.
The opportunity met the prepared photographer!
Dear Thomas. Thank you for this most informative article. I’ve had such a hard time seperating fact from fiction. This compact lens is just what I need. I wasn’t convinced a mirror lens could give reasonable results. Now that I’m better informed, I can forget about those large (and expensive) prime lenses. Most of my work is for travel/adventure magazines so I don’t need to make large fine art prints. The ability to have this handy little lens with me at all times opens a whole new realm of possibilities. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Richard –
Thanks for the kind words. I also ran a companion piece addressing CPU installation and use – see the Sitemap. The CPU adds a lot, not least the ability to use shutter block (shutter release only available when the focus rectangle is lit, which helps with what is a hard to focus lens) and the ability to automatically invoke my lens correction profile on import to LR r PS.
One of the challenges in getting the best out of this fine optic is the need to resist using it handheld. f/8 will not get you fast shutter speeds and you really have to use the focus confirmation light for critical focus, as screen focus does not cut it. The CPU, once installed, will also permit you to adjust the point at which the confirmation light illuminates for absolutely critical focus.
Tuning the CPU for optimal focus is also addressed here – see the Sitemap.
As regards focus confirmation, Nikon states it works down to f/5.6 but I find it’s fine on my D700 at the stated f/8 aperture of the Reflex Nikkor. On the other hand, the focus confirmation light in my older D2x absolutely refuses to work with the lens, so you may want to check it on your body of choice before committing to purchase.
Thanks for this blog, it’s very helpfull. After six years of just having problems with printheads (replaced and solved) I’ve jus arrive to the yellow tube problem (after trying to solve it, now is yellow and cyan problem cause I used a very old and wasted cyan cartridge to purge. I think it has more to do with a loss of watertightness than with a clog that is the next consecuence. Why, and specially where is originated, and why can’t be easily solved with a purge, which by the way, didn’t make any mess in my hp 130, is what I’m investigating now before spending my last 50 euros in a new tubes assembly. Any suggestions ? I’ll keep informed but dont know if it’s worth, cause new hp 111 are now very, very cheap About 580 € and come with a complete set of 4 cartridges and printheads that are 320 € in consumables.
Thanks again. http://www.delex.es/plotters-hp-designjet/hp-designjet-111.html?gclid=CLiS94DjobQCFYXLtAodrVUAIQ
Guillermo – A couple of thoughts. The HP30/90/130 are 6 color dye printers, need compatible paper which is getting harder to find, and deliver the best blacks in the business. The HP111 is a 4 color pigment printer (the colors dry on the surface rather than being absorbed by the paper), can use a far broader range of papers which are easy to find but you really want to see some prints before you spend $1,000 on one. Just because the consumables are included does not make the HP111 a good buy. The way I see it you can find out if your DJ130 still works for 50 € or spend 580 € on an unknown quantity. The results I have seen from the latest 12 ink Epsons are no better than those from my DJ90. I have not seen output from the HP111 so cannot comment.
I also have serious concerns about HP as a business. It has to be the worst managed large company in the world. One day they are getting out of printers and PCs, the next day they have a new CEO, the third day they are litigating to cover up for their mistakes. It’s a rudderless ship, too late to mobile, stuck in low margin commoditized and dying businesses (PCs and printers), they have completely missed the tablet revolution, etc. It’s hard to see this company surviving and it has meanwhile garnered a reputation for some of the worst customer service on the planet. I speak from personal experience. There is no scenario on earth where I would call HP for help with anything nor would I buy anything from HP again. Once my DJ90 becomes uneconomical to fix I’ll be getting the latest Epson.
Take a good hard look at the official HP Maintenance Manual to which I link above. It is exceptionally good and has very detailed diagnostics which might help get your DJ130 fully functional again. What do you have to lose?
From the x-rite site I downloaded the free i1ProfilerD2LionEdition.
It was published in november 2011 I think.
X-rite states that they will support OS Lion, but that Mountainlion was not tested and future OS versions will not be supported.
HTH
Willem
“Please note that while we do not anticipate any problems, i1ProfilerD2LionEdition software used with either the i1DisplayLT or the i1Display2 has NOT been fully tested on Mac OS X 10.8 (Mountain Lion). X-Rite DOES NOT provide support for i1Profiler D2LionEdition on Mac OSX 10.8 (Mountain Lion) but will continue to support this product on OSX 10.7 (Lion).”
I have had no problems running the Lion version on 10.8.2 Mountain Lion so far with my i1Display2, but X-Rite’s sloth just confirms that what the colorimeter market needs is some strong competition. – Ed.
I have the MFT Panasonic 1.7 20 and 2.5 14 mm. The last one with sunlens hd pro 1 uv filter from Japan with hood. For some years on the GF 1, now bought the DMC-G3. I made excellent pictures for snapshots/consumer use and cannot confirm the bad experience of the review.
Those are very small pancake lenses. It is unfair to compare them to regular primes. For landscapes and serious pictures I use Leica-R lenses adapted; or the Olympus 11-26 mm FT with the adapter from Olympus having fast autofocus on the DMC-G3. I am a very happy user of the compact Panasonics with broad experience over many brands incl. FF Canon and Nikon to allow me this judgement.
The fact remains that this lens is marketed as a high quality prime and, based on my experience, simply cannot be recommended for demanding street snapping. The flare is atrocious and the slow focusing is even worse. Less demanding users may find those are not drawbacks, but I do not write this blog with such users in mind.
The Panasonic site refers to the lens’s ‘…. superb optical performance ….’ as the excerpt below confirms. Their words – most certainly not mine. – Ed.
Thomas,
Once again, no good deed goes unpunished. I’m sorry to hear you were the recipient of the city’s ingratitude. Don’t let it put a dent in your generous spirit. I for one (of many, I suspect) would have enjoyed your continued documentation of this project. Thanks for posting your excellent preliminary snaps. Richard
What a great way to start the new year: capturing the character of some of our less fortunate brothers in black and white, in a wonderfully rich tonal scale.
Yes, brothers: today I was shooting at Laguna Beach, one of my favorite places this time of the year, and I was called brother by one. It felt good.
The richness of the midtone range brings out the deep humanity of the subjects, and helps the viewer relate to their state of mind.
I believe the smiles and optimism on their faces is not related to the recent donation (nobody can “buy” that look), but it reflects the hope induced by the stories exchanged with the photographer.
I have this lens for use on a D200, and although mine is not very minty it works well enough. I’m surprised it’s so flare-resistant for being so old
I actually have a 28-50-75 collection in f/3.5 for DX, the 18/3.5, 28/3.5 and 55/3.5.
This is like going to the new Bond movie :). 🙂
This video will show some of the potential of such a camera for a still photographer.
I know its a pretty old article, but could you add some details about the “driver needed for Air Display”? Just bought the app on the app store and tried to install the application on my hackintosh, but the installer keeps telling me that the installation failed. Any ideas?
Have you tried running the app despite the message?
Very nice.
Mine required quite a bit of focus adjust (-18, as confirmed using Reikan FoCal) on a D600 but has otherwise been stellar. I might get the USB dock (which will work with Macs) so that I can adjust focus on the lens and not the body, but that’s mostly aesthetic (I can set focus adjust to close to 0 in the body).
I tried it on my D90 + Nikkor-S Auto 50mm f/1.4 S/N 877156. I got to programming menu (method 1-6-1), then set up the f/1.4. Now it reports apperture f/1.4 to the camera but no chance getting to programming menu. Ok, I bought 2 pcs of chip so second try: (1) programming min apperture f/16 – ok. (2) Programming focus length – ok. Taking photos – seemed to report correct values. (3) Then setting max apperture to f/1.4. IT seemed to be successful, but again in the same status as in first try. The only change is it reports 50mm fucus length. No chance to get back to programming menu and also doesn’t respond to changing apperture in M mode on camera!
Is there any bug? Can I reset chip somehow now?
I had the same problem…..especially in low light and using focus assist from my SB910 flash – the Nikon lenses were perfect – the sigma 35mm was not!
if you could kindly make a video of using this app as for drawing on a PC, that would be so nice of ya
Can’t agree more! Discovered him in an Istanbul book store and never stopped admiring him since. He has one of the most inspiring subjects ever on his doorstep, Turkey’s street and people, and he can transport you in their midst with a force that few others can match.
And thanks for pointing to 121clicks, interesting community
Best, Giovanni
I’m having problems programming the cpu chip mounted on my 35 f2 AI with a D90. I have successfully installed about 4 cpu chips before. It seems like the body does not recognize the cpu at all. I even held the chip directly to the body contacts to see if a “2.8” appeared. Nothing. I haven’t had this problem before. I tested two cpus with the same results. Am I missing something? The comments from mm3 makes me wonder if there is a qc issue here.
That really does rather sound like a bad batch of CPUs. I have done maybe 20 lenses and not a bad one yet. I would suggest you try another body, if possible, to be sure. – Ed.
Question: the profile I downloaded is “NIKON D700 (20.0 mm f3.5) – RAW.lcp” – does this mean it is appropriate only for D700? I have a different FX body.
Thank you for compiling this comprehensive set of great older lenses, Thomas.
I have added an explanatory paragraph, above. The profile is recognized by lens focal length and maximum aperture, not by the camera body name in the profile. This means these profiles will work on all FX (full frame) and DX (APS-C cropped frame) Nikon digital bodies. – Ed.
Thomas,
I bought the AI version of this lens on ebay last week, and received it yesterday. So far, it’s pretty sweet.
Some pluses which motivated me, besides focal length and price ($200):
– Nearest focus distance of about 8-10″
– Very sharp
– Lightweight
– Good rendering of orthogonality / minimal distortion
Some minuses:
– There’s CA, mostly noticeable in the corners, especially wide-open
– Distant subjects lose fine detail (my primary body is D800E). I tested on tripod. Near detail is quite good.
Bjorn Rorslett gave it thumbs-up for near subjects.
I work in macro quite a lot, so my plan is to try the 20/3.5 with the K1 ring, for wide-angle macro work, see how that goes. I’d like to try something like this, but don’t know if it’s possible.
Kevin
Your lens-to-subject distance may be very tight with so wide a lens in macro mode; maybe try reversing it with the appropriate lens reversing ring to see if that improves matters. Lighting gets pretty tricky with ultra-wides in macro mode – Ed.
Lovely picture and and the Mercedes looks as solid as the buildings. It is a shame later models are not as elegant.
… and a RHD Benz at that. Oh wait, mirror image or vertical flip?
I Shot the Sigma during a boxing match last week in low light conditions. I pre-ordered from BnH. I used this lens as If I was using my normal Nikon lenses in low light situations. Simply put the Sigma nailed the shot every time on my D700. I did not have to fine tune or anything. My Sigma 35mm/1.4 lens is excellent right out the box! See some of my shots here. My shooting style is very quick and snapshot journalistic style. Here are my samples.
Thomas, you are a great photographer, who knows how to capture the soul of your subjects. And a great writer too…
Let me guess: will Victor will get the first one?
Thanks! He received his print yesterday. The look on his face was worth it – Ed. .
Great optic. I’ve sold my copy to finance a D700 though… I’m intrigued that it’s useful on FF, but still think I’ll try to find a decent copy of the old 35/1.4 for FX.
Thank you for sharing this excellent tutorial. It is the best I have read.
I thought I was the only person with this issue. Low light portraits at f1.4, when I focus on the closer eye, most of the time the focus will go to the back eye. I am not sure what’s going on or if it is fixable. I am dissapointed.
Playing with AF fine tune does not fix the problem, as it is rather inconsistent.
Nice.
I just tried on a 28mm series E lens, using a custom made laser-cut placement jig (I have a laser cutter so why not!) and just d/s taped for now. I was programming on a D40x, which worked fine but set the focus mode to MF (no lever, and AF-C didn’t work) and no “job nr” flashing anywhere I saw. My only other mistake was to accidentally set the lens aperture control, the “60” option, but I then reset and started again, no problem.
Other than that, I started by mistakenly trying a 1″,1/6″,1″ pattern, and not the proper 1″,6″,1″ pattern. I also find that I have to be careful putting the lens in too, although I haven’t quite figured out why, it might be the laser cut placement jig or maybe the contacts are just out a touch too far.
Oh, and I have to dial +0.7 EV to get good exposure, but otherwise it seems consistent and everything works great. On the D40, setting the MF focus type allows the shutter to fire when you press, regardless of focus lock, and AFS focus mode allows it to fire only when in focus (with the same press/turn for focus/fire behaviour as described here).
Awesome!
Along with everyone else that has taken the time to write, I am grateful for your time to write and maintain this blog. I love my DJ130. I’ve been using it for architectural drawings since 2005 when I started by own business. It has rarely failed me, but after a rough cross country move from New England my printing baby has shown up worse for wear. Downloading the manual was a treat as now I have available the tools to allow some DIY repair. My issue right now is ink delivery. To make matters worse, the “Services” tab within the Printing Preferences menu has grayed out the “Status of my Printer” and “Calibrate Color” tabs. Into the manual I go…….
Well said. Agree totally. I”m in the same position myself at moment.
Bet there be something out of china soon. Hong Kong will have it.
I wanted GPS on my Nikon D300s. Not going to pay £200 + that Nikon wanted. Got far superior system with no wires. Holux M – 1000c GPS logger with Bluetooth. That sits in my
pocket or camera bag with a Aokatec AK – 4N2 bluetooth adaptor that connects to the 10 pin connector on the front of the D300s. Works great. Recommend.
I also got remote control shutter with 100m range by Phottix.
All the above gadgets only cost £115. They never let me down. Check them out or email me for details.
The use of an Aokatech GPS receiver and a remote data logger is addressed at length here. An update appears here.
Just wanted to let you and your readers know that this lens works beautifully on my Canon 60D. Because of the 1.6 crop, this lens is transformed into an amazingly compact, 800mm! This also eliminates any noticable light fall off in the corners. With the Nikon-to-Canon adapter from Photo-diox I have perfect (light and audio) focus conformation.
Hello everybody,
thank you very much for this article, I would like to share my experience with you .
I have demounted whole tube system like in this article is described, but I did not order the new one (money, time, impatience) but I have rinsed it by water with syringe.
The old ink was hard like stone at many places so just pressure of water from the syringe was not enought.
So i pulled out yellow transparenttube from rubber cover and massage of hardened places while overpressure and underpressure of water helped. All hardened places were realesed in 30 seconds. Then I rinsed whole system by water and printer goes again well.
Thomas, you’re right. A first class lens! IMHO, better than the 28/2.8
This is all really interesting but I’m still trying to figure how to get my DJ90 apart. Mainly the right side, cover and sides etc. I’m pretty good mechanically but not brave enough to go where I’ve never been at the cost of breaking something. so if you could tell me how to access the ink and driver right side so that I can remove the ink tubes I would be most appreciative.
Thanks.
Download the factory manual referenced at the end of this article. It includes step-by-step dismantling instructions. See page 7-5 and following. – Ed.
I tried F100, F801s and F601. Everything goes smoothly on F100 if I follow your guide. I just have two notes.
Body goes to stand-by mode shortly after exposure so I have to half-press shutter shortly after 1-6-1 (1-5-1 works too) initial exposure otherwise the body asleeps before chip enters programming mode (or body ignores it). After this half-press the meter switch of time preset by CSM 15 works. The same is valid for parameter selection 1s shot. I kept half-pressing the shutter as a mad because I didn’t want to loose programming mode specialy when setting minimum aperture as it takes long time.
After I preset minimum aperture, its value on display changes to value selected by aperture selection dial on the body. I was confused and I reset and re-programed the chip three times before I revealed it. I never set aperture by dial, only with aperture ring on a lens so it didn’t come into my mind. In addition I have CSM 22 set to lens so I really had a pinch of panic.
Chip seems to be incompatible with F601 and F801s (N6006, N8008). F601 looks like switched off when lens is mounted. F801s looks like going off when I press the shutter if the lens is monted when camera is switched off. If the lens is mounted when camera is switched on, then I am able to make a shot but the camera ignores signal from the lens and in addition doesn’t meter. It is bad for me – I cannot have a lens which cannot be used on some bodies. So far I stay with temporarily mounted chip with double sided tape – no epoxy here.
One advantage which is not mentioned in Part I – chipped MF lens shows actual aperture in viewfinder even if it is controlled via ring on the lens – exciting! Thank you – I have updated Part I to state this. – Ed.
We have a Photographica show here in Boston similar to this. http://vimeo.com/41233223 . Good place to browse and stroll but prices are not necessarily better.. I did get a nice Rolleiflex leather strap replacement for $1.
I spoke with HP tech support today. While they’re still working on the maintenance utility for OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion, the utility for 10.7 works fine for Mac. This is very encouraging Doug, thank you. But frankly, this is HP, so I’ll believe it when I see it on OS 10.8. – Ed.
I cannot thank you enough for this. Have a 35/f2 Nikkor-O that I LOVE, and basically lived on my D40x. I was kinda sad when I got my D7000 and realized I couldn’t use it unless I modified it. Was going to send it out till I saw this. 20 minutes worth of work and I have my little friend back. Thanks man!
Dear Thomas, first of all, thanks for the fantastic article! Just bought the chip from ebay to equip my Nikkor 50 f1.8 or my Sankor pre-AI 135 f2.8. This last one works already w/o mods on my D70 (distance from the bayonet and lens body is greater than nikon’s), but I will have to glue a small piece of plastic to let it engage the lever of minimum aperture on the body…
The question is about focusing: chip docs says: “On the screen you will also find highlighted spots that got into focus area” – does that mean that I will have focus confirmation from the pharentesis [ ] on the screen center, like it happens in AF, or just from the green dot at the left bottom of the internal lcd?
The behavior of the focus brackets/rectangle differs between the three bodies I have tried – the D700, D3x and D2x. None flash the focus brackets/rectangle when sharp focus is attained with an MF lens, whereas the D700 and D3x (but not the D2x) flash the focus rectangle with AF Nikkors. The focus brackets of the D2x remain unlit with chipped MF lenses. As I am not familiar with the D70 I cannot answer your question, but suggest that you take the painless step of installing the CPU with double sided tape, program it as explained above and test. I can confirm that all three bodies I have tried activate the lower left green focus diode and arrows correctly.
The piece you need to glue on the rear of the aperture ring of the Sankor telegraphs maximum aperture, not minimum. Nothing is needed for minimum aperture – the rotation of the aperture ring will communicate that at its limit. To see where to glue that piece, read this.- Ed.
Thanks Thomas for your fast reply. I did read your article on AI modification: yes, I meant maximum aperture… As for the brackets, I suspect they will remain unlit with MF lens; they flash with AF lens. The green dot is already active using MF: no arrows on D70 – it is just distracting from the scene becouse is in the left corner.
As soon as I have the chip I will try and report. Great work!
I have been considering the purchase of a HP Designjet 130, would you recommend this printer?
Check my Printing articles – see the Sitemap above.
If you are a Mac user you really must be using a Snow Leopard or earlier OS machine as anything later will not give you access to HP’s online diagnostic app. While you can run paper, ink and head usage diagnostics using just the control panel on the printer, failed ink head diagnostics can only be run using HP’s online application, which does not run with OS X Lion or Mountain Lion. You need Snow Leopard or earlier with Rosetta, or an old PPC G3/4/5 Mac. Windows is not an issue best as I know, but I do not use it.
Likewise, if you want to use the DJ’s built-in colorimeter to make your own paper profiles (yes, it has one, though I find paper manufacturers’ profiles are more accurate) you must have access to the online utility on HP’s site.
Buying new gets you a 24″ printer for $1200, half the price of any other of like quality. But HP’s support is worthless, so the ‘new premium’ cannot be realized effectively.
Buy used only if you can get the seller to run the diagnostic pages I illustrate in the above link. That will tell you if it’s a printing shop beater (tens of thousands of prints) or an amateur’s baby (a couple thousand). If the seller cannot provide that, move to another.
Worst case ‘fix up’ cost for a printer which has been in long term storage – meaning the heads and feed tubes are clogged and the inks old is:
6 new heads @$35 each
6 ink cartridges @$40 each (never use aftermarket inks. Never).
1 new feed tube assembly ($40 to $60 – Sparepartswarehouse.com )
Sweat equity and comfort with dismantling machines. I link to the manual and talk about head and feed tube replacement here.
So for a used stored one used your worst sunk repair cost is $500, not cheap and no guarantees, which means you probably do not want to pay more than $200 for one without current diagnostic reports.
I believe the best bet is a lightly used one which has not been stored and which you can see working. Local pick-up is greatly preferred to risking UPS or FedEx TLC. I would pay $400-500 for a good one. Once unplugged and stored, these clog as the head warmer is off. If plugged in (but not on – fan noise) mine never clogs, even with 6m between uses. The head warmer consumes a few watts and prevents the inik solidifying in the heads and feed tubes. So if you get one, do not unplug it – s small green LED on the control panel shows the head warmer is on.
Parts are easily obtained – HP made a lot of these machines for commercial use. Roll paper (there’s a roll paper version if that’s your thing) is easily available. Until I conclude my tests on fading of aftermarket papers (3-4m hence) you really should use HP Premium Glossy or Matte paper which is formulated to be fade free with those papers. You cannot just use any old paper, most are not suited to the DJ 30/90/130 which use dye inks not pigments.
For roll paper equipped versions the paper cutting knife which is built in to all DJs will come into action. The roll paper versions are distinguised by the suffix ‘r’ in the name – e.g. 130r. Ethernet network versions have the suffix ‘n’, so a 130nr would be the network, roll paper version. Roll paper holders can be fitted to any DJ90 or DJ130, are ridiculously expensive (hundreds of dollars for a rod and a couple of brackets) and best made at home from some parts from the hardware store and a leavening of ingenuity, for under $20.
HP has discontinued cut sheets in large sizes (13″ x 19″ and 18″ x 24″) though some supplies remain out there. Roll paper remains easily available, though I hate it because it’s a pig to work with – curl, difficulty of switching sizes, tricky to load, more clearance needed behind printer, etc.
Ink supplies and printheads are not an issue. Many of these printers remain in printshop service using rolls, and HP makes good money on inks and heads, so they keep making them.
So a qualified ‘Yes’ to your question with many caveats.
I suggest you take some time and read through my Printing link in the Sitemap above which has 7 years of discovery on my DJ90 (functionally identical to the DJ130 except for the 18″ vs. 24″ width) clearly set forth, pluses and minuses.
I love mine – finest blacks in the business – and I do not lust for anything else at any price.
New alternatives in wide carriage? Epson seem to have a lot of ink clogging issues and the printhead is integrated – no one-head-per-ink technology, unlike the DJ series. It costs as much to replace as a new $3,000 printer making the whole thing questionable. But I am repeating hearsay, not stating personal experience.
Canon I know little about.
The current HP 3200 uses pigments, not dyes, so a far greater paper choice is available to you, uses discrete print heads so cheap to replace when one blows, has very large capacity ink cartridges and is very frugal with ink like the DJ130, and even has a built in colorimeter for making your own paper profiles! But it costs almost $4,000 and once again when you call for help you will be transferred to a non-English speaking nation. Still, that’s what I would probably buy today if I needed 24″ or 44″ much as I detest everything about the HP of today from its C Suite and board of directors on down to its stock.
Ed.
It’s not the camera, it’s the eye of the photographer, and choosing the right light.
Wonderful images; thank you Thomas for sharing them. The Rollei nostalgia is the icing on the cake.
Thank you for confirming that David Hemmings (aka Thomas) used the 85mm f1.8 H auto Nikkor on his Nikon F in Blowup. I had suspected it for a while. However, others have suggested that it was the 50mm f1.4 lens. Looking at pix of the Hemmings lens, I notice that there is no writing inside the lens, as there would be if it was the 50 f2 or f1.4. You will see that the 85 has the writing around the outer of the filter ring – like the 28mm f3.5/ 35mm f2 lenses to name a couple from the 1960s. I use all these lens and others on my 3 Nikon F Photomic FTN bodies (1 black) and I derive so much pleasure from the quality of build, just the feel of them. Digital? I’m not bright enough!
David – I actually ran the movie and froze the frame in the studio scene with Veruschka to confirm that it was indeed the 85/1.8. Your point about the absence of writing on the inside periphery is also correct. Hemmings uses the no less splendid 50/1.4 Nikkor-S in the scenes in Maryon Park. You can easily recognize it, and the 85 would not have fit in his Koren-model Bentley Continental‘s glove box the way he inserts it, lens up! – Ed.
10.8.3 also fixed the problem with NEC’s Spectraview II – so now I can use it to calibrate my monitor!
I wouldn’t have been aware of 10.8.3 but for your post, so thank you!
Mine’s going back tomorrow.
In low light (tungsten) with Nikon SB900 it focusses perfectly okay in AF-S with centre focus point (i.e. with flash focus assist light).
In AF-C or without focus assist light it is a mile out and completely unusable (I rarely use the centre focus point which is the only way to use the focus assist light).
With no flash at all it focusses perfectly okay in that same low light.
In decent daylight it is stunning!
It seems therefore that it’s a problem between the Sigma lens and Nikon flash.
Hello,
Can you launch the last version of iMovie (under your hackintosh with the gtx 660 [NO TI]) and tell us if it crashes or not ?
Thank you.
I cannot do that as I use iMovie ’09 with no plans to upgrade to the current version. I suggest you post your question on the Tonymacx86.com forum. – Ed.
ok thank you!
I posted here
(you can save your iMovie, update it, try to launch, if it crashes, then restore the last working and saved version 🙂 )
Thanks, I’ll pass. – Ed.
you are using iMovie 9, and not version 11. I just realized, because the current version is 9.04 and it is the one packaged in version 11
I understand your sentence: I do not want to upgrade. and non updater 🙂
So, the chip arrived. I installed on my Auto-Sankor 135mm f 2.8 from the 70s pre-AI. I used the provided alignement tool, which worked very well, I have to say. Did not need the additional plastic support provided, just glued the chip on the border. No machining needed for this one. But I transformed the lens in AI using the metal piece with the fork for the index. I just unscrew it, and then cut the fork out; then I glued it upside down along the circumference of the lens in a way that it pulls the lever on the Nikon body to tell the camera to operate the aperture. I then programmed the chip with your instructions and now I have a fantastic old-modern lens!
The pre-AI fork was screwed on the lens in the opposite position from the now glued one. It was difficult to cut the fork (very good steel), then I filed it a bit and used Bostik transparent. For the chip I used loctite (superglue) because that’s what was around.
Images of David’s conversion appear below. – Ed.
Obviously I’m not a product visionary, but I don’t really see how a “smart” wristwatch fits into today’s landscape. You may call Google Glass creepy and invasive but at least it’s breaking new ground. N.b., nowhere has Apple publically announced they are working on a watch, it’s all pure media speculation. I personally think the rumours of an iWatch are part of a “long troll” initiated by Apple, aimed at credulous media, competitors and stock analysts.
Personally I’ve always worn a watch and will continue to do so, but right now I’m happy with radio-signal synced Japanese quartz. They’re a good mix of accuracy (important to me!) and economy. I’d like a watch that could sync the time signal from a mobile phone but that’s pretty nice.
What watch are you wearing, Thomas? I’m thinking it’s a PP 😀
Indeed. – Ed.
Hi,
I recently bought 6 Dandelion chips for Nikon.
All are installed now, and working good. I do have a question however concerning pre AI-s Nikkor lenses.
Before I chipped these AI lenses, I used them as “Non CPU lens” on my D700. Which worked fine, set a side the fact I occasionaly forgot to switch to the correct Non CPU lens.
Because of the difference in aperture mechanics between the AI en the AI-s Nikkors, which made me look for the Dandelion with the ’60’ option, I’ve found out that some AI Nikkors ‘lose’ or ‘gaine’ light after being chipped and programmed for using them in F-stop ring control. In A shooting mode they wil need a permanent +/-EV correction. For instance In case of my 135/3.5 AI lens I now need to correct +1.5 EV. I did not have to do that when I was using it in “Non CPU lens” mode before the chip was applied.
As instructed, I removed the lens form the “Non CPU lens” list.
I programmed:
Option 2.8 = f3.5
Option 4.5 = 135mm
Option 40 = f32
Option 60 = toggled to F-stop ring control
Camera settings:
Aperture preference (A mode)
Matrix metering
Single shot AF
ISO 200, or Auto ISO (same results)
Correction for this lens needed over the complete F-stop range: EV +1.5
Just to check if it is the chip that is causing this, I removed the chip form the 135/3.5 (by taking the rear baffle out on which the chip is glued on), reprogrammed a Non CPU lens 135/3.5 and made some test shots with the ‘un-chipped’ lens. Exposure was correct and needed no EV-correction at all.
OK this was a very long (sorry) story to prelude my question(s):
– Is this a known issue for the “Dandelion chip – AI Nikkor” combination? I mean the difference (EV+1.5) between non CPU and chipped?
– Is a programmable solution (other then manual EV correction) at hand for this problem?
– If not: Is a mechanical solution possible?
I’m looking forward to your reply.
Because with the ‘EV correction problem’ for me there is minimum advantage in using the chip on an AI Nikkor. In the chipped version I probably wil sometimes forget to manualy correct the EV. As in the past I sometimes forgot to switch to the correct “Non CPU lens”.
The EV correction wil most certenly differ between different AI lenses which means an extra issue to remember when mounting an AI lens.
The chipping of my AI-s Nikkors however did create some room in the “Non CPU lens” list 😉
Best regards,
Cees
All my chipped Nikkors – both pre-Ai, Ai and Ai-S, need +1.5EV adjustment as explained here. It’s a known issue. There is no variation between lenses – the issue is solely in the CPU (which is the only variable you are introducing when chipping) and the EV adjustment is consistent across the 20 or so lenses I have chipped, so I disagree with your statement in your penultimate sentence, above. It’s no problem to leave the camera body set to +1.5EV with chipped lenses. It is not a programmable solution (I have tried) nor is it a mechanical one as you would have incorrect maximum aperture indexing if you varies the position of the aperture-follower cut-out.
If, like me, you have a mixture of chipped and later (AFD, G) lenses, I suggest you do what I do – do not mix them when taking pictures because you can bet that you will forget to adjust the EV setting when switching between them. Alternatively, if you have two bodies, use one for chipped and the other for later lenses.
The advantages of chipping are far more than you state. It’s not just about not having to set the “Non CPU lens” setting in the menu or freeing up space in that menu. Read the beginning of this piece for a comprehensive list.
– Ed.
As an unsatisfied owner of Clive Sinclair’s ZX81, I was dreaming of the Osborne. Or of its competition with a larger, more useable screen, the Kaypro II. Later I settled for a lunch-box sized, display-less CP/M 80 machine.
IIRC, the Kaypro came out a couple of quarters after the Ozzy and was also a very capable CP/M machine – Ed.
Hi Tom: Are you going to pull the trigger? I’m currently using the Panasonic G2 and am thinking that this might be a nice camera to move to!
Almost certainly, based on the early reviews. I’m using the Panny G3 and this seems better for street work in most regards, especially now that they appear to have fixed the slow AF. Availability is the main cause of delay. – Ed.
Thanks for the pointer, I was looking for something like this too. Some time ago I’ve written a script that manually takes each movie and generates metadata for my Roku, so I can watch my movies on a big TV. But I missed the ability to quickly glance at what I have on my computer, without scrolling through a large folder in Finder.
The iPad app has some bad reviews, I’ve decided against buying it for now.
Amen, I’ll stay with LR4.4 and CS6 as long as possible. In the mean time I’ll be exploring Corel’s PSP.
Gary E.
You are right.
We came full circle.
In the beginning, there was the MainFrame, and it was good.
We were connected to it, depended on it, and paid for it monthly, but at least, we owned our data: remember those stacks of punch cards and tapes?
Than came the PC revolution: we had our own machines, we owned the software, we owned our data, and it was good.
I remember in the 90’s I could model structures, simulate earthquakes and perform finite element analysis on my desktop, running circles around the MainFrames of the 80’s, all for the reasonable cost of the software. No punch cards, no telex of data, no quick runs to CDC to pick up your printouts. It was good.
Now they are bent to take this freedom away from us, and want to squeeze us into the iCloud, the google docs, the Photoshop cloud.
I say forgetaboutit. It is not good.
I will not use the iCloud, the Adobe cloud and the other modern MainFrames, for the same reasons I felt free and liberated when I got my first PCs and later the Macs. I don’t trust my and my clients’ data to the cloud, no matter whose cloud it is, and I refuse to pay the monthly fees; even though google docs are free, I still don’t use them. I do not want or need data anxiety.
Up to now, I have not noticed any anomalies on the D600 and D3100 bodies.
I’ve had the following AIS lenses chipped by my dealer: 28/2.8, 35/2.8, 85/1.4, 105/1.8, 105/4 (Micro), 180/2.8 ED
This one just baffles me, with a capital “baff.” On the one hand, surely they realize that this move is suicide. On the other hand, it never pays to overestimate corporate brains, so I agree with your bet that they’ll move LR to subscription-based also. I won’t even consider it. I’m inclined to do a pre-emptive switch to Aperture.
Keith – those are the stock glossy and satin papers which HP has long provided for the DJ 30/90/130 and are excellent. I have used both exclusively for years. However, as I have mentioned, they are being discontinued and 13″x19″ and 18″x24″ cut sheets are becoming very hard to find. And life is too short to deal with rolls. Hence these articles. – Ed.
aHH ok, I thought those new part #’s where the “reformulated’ versions, thanks for the clarification.
I am a new dj130 user, I got one of the last ones from Adorama, once I got it and set it up I discovered that it was Discontinued!
I got a ticket to return it, but once I printed out a couple of samples from the satin pack that came with the printer I was blown away!
So I decided to keep it (esp after looking at the canon prices on ink for their 24†printers) and try and get some of the NOS papers and supplies and hopefully with your research find some alternative paper.
I just picked up a bunch of q5489a NOS for cheap and one of the gloss packets to test the gloss
I assume there is no real shelf life to these papers since they are suppose to last 80+ years anyway.
Also one last thing, is there a good message board for the dj30/90/130 ?
I have not really came across anything consistent.
Cheers!
Keith
Try the Yahoo HP Printers discussion group.
Lightroom’s catalogs live in the cloud?
Are people going to do photo editing over the mobile network? Even given the great enthusiasm for all things mobile, I doubt that. What is sensible would be to give a locally hosted + cloud edition, with each version capable of standing on its own, and the cloud version also providing services comparable to Flickr and instagram.
Say do you have any clue if q5495a HP paper is swellable and would work for the dj130?
I picked up some at my local fry’s but I have had no luck finding any hard info on it out on the internet.
Thanks again!
Keith
Q5485a ia for pigment ink printers and is not swellable. Q5486a is the right one for the DJ30/90/130 in glossy surface finish. – Ed
Dear Thomas, so I got another chip and I wanted to give it a try on my last buy from ebay: a Soligor 75-260, Tokina-made from the late 60’s…3 pounds of metal! It is preAI, so I had to modify it, but not for the AI coupling lever, as there’s no such thing on my D70, but for the EE servo lever. In fact, the aperture ring was slightly colliding to the EE lever of the D70. So I took it out and file it by 1,5 mm, and now the aperture ring engage the EE lever when at f22. So I can command the aperture from the D70. The chip is in place with just bi-adesive tape as you suggested.
Two questions: 1) even if it is preAI, aperture commanded from the camera seems to get the correct exposure… the preAI non linearity does not seems to be so wrong here… or am I wrong? 2) I set the chip to focal 260 of the zoom range… but I get a lot of misfocused images… is it because of this setting (should I try 75) or it is just the lens?
David – 1) Aperture non-linearity is a function of the design of the aperture cam in the lens. Just because your Soligor/Tokina is pre-Ai does not mean it does not have a non-linear cam. All AiS Nikkors have linear cams (Ai and pre-Ai do not) but it’s likely Tokina used a linear cam which explains why you have no issues. 2) The focal length dialed into the CPU has nothing to do with focusing. All it does is record EXIF file data so that you can subsequently search on that focal length. Thus the rational conclusion is that your lens is at fault. – Ed.
Thanks for clarification. Maybe it is not at fault, it is just me holding a 3 pounds monster and not being steady enough, because some half of the shots taken are in focus. Now I got from my uncle two great lens with Pentacon six mounts (Carl Zeiss Jen Biometar 80 f2.8 and Mir 3b 65 f3.5) and a Nikon converter. If I chip the converter can I use both lenses?
I have just bought one of these for my Nikon D3200. You mentioned the Nikkor 50mm F2 which I also have and I am totally stunned at how good that lens is.
I am hoping my copy of the QC 200mm is as good as your review claims it to be.
Thanks for taking the time to write about this lens.
Kind Regards,
Tom
Hi Thomas,
Thank you for your reply.
I’ll check my other Ai lenses again and more closely to see if this +1.5EV indeed is a constant. If it is consistent than it is less of an issue. A small coloured sticker on these lenses as an ‘EV reminder’ would do the trick for me.
Of course there are more advantages overall, chipping these old beauties. Using them all is a difference that may vary per user.
Thank you again. Your answers really helped me sort it out, as did the article.
Best regards,
Cees
For some time now I’ve suffered from magenta banding and for a short time, fuzzy printing and I have since solved both problems. I have a Designjet 130nr (don’t use the roll-feed–it’s still new in the box)
The HP Designjet 130 suffered from
1. fuzzy printing which I assumed was a problem with print head alignment.
2. magenta showing in place of gray which I assumed was some color not properly flowing to the paper.
3. late in the process of working to correct the above, I began to hear a LOUD ratcheting sound.
The fuzzy printing was solved simply by setting a print preference in the printer palette, unchecking ColorSync and checking Vendor Matching. I get a finer set of lines without the blurring.
The magenta problem was in the light cyan printhead or the LC print cartridge. I replaced both. No problem with plugged tubes, thank Zeus. I now can print the same quality of gray that I’ve had in the past.
When I start up, the head moves back and forth a bit and the ratchet sound starts. I simply press the (red) cancel button and it resets and allows me to print my sheets. Note I print one at a time off of the big extension table on the front–not from the intake table below the main table. I think the ratchet problem is the machine trying to pick up paper from the lower table. I have 8-1/2 x 11 there (which, it dawns on me, I should remove). I also get, on my large sheets (18 x 24) three small incisor-like marks 2/3rds of the way through my print cycle. Weird.
Bottom line, I can live with the ratchet sound, if I can save 5 bills or more. I’ll look closer at the DesignJet manual when I get a little more free time to get a better idea of the source. The “5 bills” reference was for a repair quote that included an HP kit. I’m wondering if the kit includes all new print heads and inks. Since I’ve already replaced many of these, paying for replacing them again is troubling. The repair people, smelling a Do It Yourselfer, haven’t returned my phone calls.
Lastly, I had a newer ink cartridge which showed ink on the readout begin to not provide ink. I simply let it soak for a few minutes in a mug of hot water and it began working just fine after I’d wiped it down and reinserted it.
I wonder whether the incisor marks are being caused by the built in cutting knife. It might make sense to try disabling it. – Ed.
And some of the worst writing ever. Why use 100 words when 10,000 will do? – Ed.
I feel so sorry you had such a complicated and not entirely positive experience in acquiring this lens… and I’m glad you finally got a good copy.
Mine has been stellar right from the beginning, it’s practically welded to my D3s ever since I got it.
I would never buy another HP printer again, I’ve had this same problem only after a month of use. I purchased my printer new while in school and did not have the luxury of time to get my projects printed, but spent many hours troubleshooting and on the phone with the morons at HP. They are the worst for tech support and after the warranty is over, you might as well go out and buy another printer (I would suggest Espon) becasue buy the time you would spend on the phone for the paid support you could have bought a new printer.
Thoroughly enjoyed reading your article-I just bought a 35mm 1.4 MF for a ridiculously low price and have ordered the DK-17. I know it’s more difficult to nail critical focus on MF wide-angles compared to teles, but reading what you’ve written is very reassuring.
Thanks for the great tutorial and clear programming instruction manual. I have just successfully chipped my first lens! A nikkor 20mm f/2.8 AiS. Actually my favorite lens of all.
I have one note for Nikon D90 owners: In stead of a 1″ and then 6″ exposure to initiate the various programming cycles, you should do a 1″, then a 5″ and finally another 1″ exposure. Set the EV increment to 1/3 to enable a 5″ exposure. The rest is similar to Thomas’ description. Thank again Thomas!
Btw: for reference chipping a 20mm f/2.8 ais is a simple glue job. No sawing or grinding required.
Thomas, A great series of articles on the MacPro. I have a MacPro 3.1 (Early 2008) which I purchased new in January 2008. It is still doing a capable job. I have increased the memory to 14GB, I added a ATI HD 3870 graphics card, a Patriot 120 GB SSD, 3 HDs and some additional USB ports. Reading your excellent posts on your newly acquired 2009 MacPro has given me some ideas regarding upgrading my MacPro. Thanks for sharing your thoughts… and photographs.
I moved the optical drive to the lower optical bay, then sat three SSDs on top, held in place by double-sided tape. Unless the Mac Pro is to be moved around a lot (40 pounds, yeah, right!) I don’t understand the need for adaptors. I did the 4,1 to 5,1 update (single processor Mac is now hex 3.33) last summer and have been enjoying the performance.
Love your writing style Thomas. Thanks for a truly stellar guide!
Thanks for the update, I love my dj130 and have been trying to stock up on paper supplies and such.
I hope you can find some alternative paper! I noticed that the satin Rolls are now Discontinued!
Keith
This is wonderful.
After an exhausting search on the web , I finally found a fix for the system maintenance issue (I have a DJ130nr). I read a forum that suggested to do a search for the system maintenance for the Designjet 111. That person also had a 130, but the utility worked for him. I tried the same and it worked for me too, and yes, I’m a mac user, OSX 10.6.8 snow leapard. Here’s the link.
Even finally managing to get the system maintenance software to work did not fix my problem. Everything I have tried to print for the last few days has come out with a reddish/pink hue. As with Thomas’ image, it suddenly started to show up at the bottom of one of my images. I followed all of the instructions for cleaning the printheads, and did all of the diagnostics and everything came out as working properly. I swear, I think I ran the diagnostic 12 times. So 3 days later, I have replaced 5 of the 6 printheads (all but the light magenta), and 4 of the 6 ink cartridges – those that were flashing low. I still get the reddish hue. I’ve tried to print from Photoshop CS3, Silhouette, and Illustrator CS4, as well as in RGB and CMYK. The results are the same.
Am I missing something here? Does anyone know anything about the ink tubes? Is that something that could be causing this problem? Again, the image diagnostics showed no issues. Does anyone have any suggestions (Thomas, are you still there)? or am I hosed? I can’t find anyone in my area who will repair this printer. It’s out of warranty, and is about 8 or nine years old. If someone can give me some guidance, I’d like to try to fix it myself. I run a small art business and have orders pending!! PLEASE HELP ASAP!!
The ink tubes are inexpensive and easy to replace. I illustrate that here. Given what you have done already, that would be a logical place to try. You can find the tubes for the 130 series here. – Thomas
This is wonderful and whimsical!
Hi Thomas, I enjoyed this post quite a bit. I don’t speak Chinese (I should) but if I am not mistaken the word Qi means “Energy” with capital E which permeates all living thing in the Far-Eastern world view. If that is so, then the choice of name for the charger puck is quite brilliant 🙂
Last I checked, English is the common use language here, unless you are on the Stanford campus. – Ed.
His Flickr feed is amazing (and high res), I have followed it for years. The story behind the picture above speaks volumes about a president that many (even many supporters) sometimes consider to be somewhat cold and aloof. To me this is “the image” of his entire presidency…
Hey, what’s your favorite beverage? I might drive 2 hours up and drop off a 12-pack for you. I’m waiting for my ebay Mac Pro to arrive, and while I’m waiting…this series on the Mac Pro has been awesome! I stayed up past my bedtime reading the first 9, and Part X was even better! I like your use of measurement and empiricism…like you, I have an obsession about heat issues (although I never had your problems–I avoided the iMac like the plague) and the temp reduction using smcFanControl will save me some time and effort (although I’m geeky enough to take my own measurements).
I wanted to let everyone know how my saga is progressing.
I finally received the ink tube assembly from China and installed it successfully. I also replaced the final print head that had not been changed. That completed the new set. After everything I did (change all printheads, 4 of the 6 ink cartridges, and ink tube assembly), there was absolutely no change in the prints. Everything still had a red/pink hue.
Due to pending orders, I decided to bite the bullet and buy another used DJ130nr. Luckily for me, there was one available in my area, so I was able to check it out before I purchased it. Everything looked good, so I bought it. So I got it home, set it up and held my breath. Same problem. Red prints. Despite the fact that it printed fine at the sellers place. Then I started thinking it might be a color profile or calibration issue. With the new printer set up, I went through the system maintenance utility and it found the computer. When I went to calibrate, I realized that when I chose the paper I use (prem. plus photo gloss) it showed up as obsolete and wouldn’t calibrate. After hours of trying to work around that, my husband and I brainstormed to try to figure out what was different between how I printed at the sellers house and our house. It came down to the paper. I put some prem plus semi gloss in and chose that as an option and the print came out perfectly. So my work around right now is to use the glossy paper, but choose the semi-gloss as the paper option.
Also see here on how to use the DJ90/130’s colrimeter to generate your own profiles and look here to learn how to use any profile with any paper – simply experiment a bit and use the one which gives the best resulots. – Ed.
Trap focus works fine on a D800 with f9 (this refers to the ‘f9’ menu selection on the rear LCD screen – Ed.) in either mode. Well, it does for me. However, programming the chip took two efforts. The first time it didn’t take properly.
I swapped to a fully charged battery, reset the chip (command 90) and started again. Then it worked fine. Also, command 60 can only be undone with a body that has the AI reader (these are the higher specification bodies). Once command 60 has been set into a chip, it isn’t possible to enter chip programming mode without that capability on the camera body. (The AI reader is that sprung loaded prong that sticks out above the lens release button and reads where the aperture ring has been turned to. There is a separate switch opposite it that is used by some camera bodies to record when the lens isn’t set at its smallest aperture, however that switch can’t record actual aperture.)
Just for info, there is no real change in the way AF M/S/C works on the newer bodies (D800 et al) and the previous ones, it is only the user interface that has changed. The mechanical bit is from M to S, and that is the same on the latest cameras as the older ones. S/C (& the new function in the D600 that auto switches between S and C) is an electronic command, nothing more.
I suggest that the first command should always be a chip reset (command 90). Make sure the power is switched off after each step too. Also, I don’t get the 7 second delay before the aperture readout starts scrolling, I do 1s, 6s, 1s and straight away the aperture readout is scrolling from 2.8.
Command 60 stops later camera bodies (maybe 2008 on?) from working in a sensible manner, the AF won’t respond to commands, the trap focus stops, the chip won’t take new programming instructions (and is in a different mode). So the comment re the D800 and AF is correct if command 60 has been set. It would seem that command 60 is a “don’t do it” situation and therefore AI lenses might not be reliable regarding exposure. The D700 is about the 2008 era, so after that? Maybe there is a reason that command 60 isn’t documented?
The D800’s f9 command can be in either setting on the body but it is ignored, the sub command dial is active in both settings (command 60 not set) and the aperture ring setting is ignored. (However, if the aperture ring isn’t at minimum, the camera body cannot set an aperture smaller than the one the ring is set to, this is a mechanical limitation of Nikon’s aperture control on lenses with an aperture ring.)
Once command 60 has been set and an attempt is made to enter chip programming mode (with a suitable body in aperture ring ON set in the body), instead of the aperture reading scrolling as expected, it scrolls with ‘normal’ values to f90 (passing f45, and f64 on the way). I tried selecting f64 (the one before f90) to see if it would come out of command 60 mode and the chip didn’t. Command 90 reset the chip as expected.
The later bodies stayed ‘hung up’ as regards AF until a Nikkor was fitted. Then it all reverted to nominal.
When I did get command 60 set, when not on minimum aperture, I got the EE error displayed (all bodies) (as expected). When at minimum aperture and in sub-command dial mode, the display was of a varying aperture. When switched to aperture ring mode in the body (f9 in a D800), now the aperture readout changed with the ring, but the camera was basically unusable re AF. I’m not sure that other aspects of the body weren’t hanging up, exposure was unreliable.
In case it matters, I did all chip programming with the lens physically at minimum aperture.
It would seem that the chip isn’t properly/fully compatible.
I can make no promises about any damage you might be doing to your Nikon camera. This is entirely at your own risk.
The Nikon D3x which I use was first sold in December 2008, and all chip commands, including ’60’ work properly. Accordingly, the anomalies noted above with regard to ‘Command 60’ may be specific to the D800 – Ed.
In a barrage of N7 reviews since it was released…your is the finest that I have read. The various reviews have already hashed and rehashed the specs and benchmark numbers, but your takes a cut above the rest in giving a firsthand “usage” review, and your commentary through the page is hilarious 🙂 Now back to playing with my evil google tablet
Just tick ‘Request desktop site’ on chrome and you can access iCloud.com
This means tap the column of three dots at the top right of Chrome, to the right of the URL window, and check the box – another tap – ‘Request desktop s…(ite)’. This works but is half as fast as the method I outline above. Almost unusably slow, in fact. – Ed.
Hello Thomas,
Not least because of your glowing article I recently treated myself to a copy of the Q 200/4 (SN 521662) and find it hard to believe what I’m seeing: the thing is all you said and more – absolutely fantastic! It’s a user lens with okay cosmetics and cost a whopping 34€.
I have tested and do own many allegedly better lenses in this focal range (among them Nikkor 180/2.8 ED, Leica 180/2.8 II, Leica 180/4, Leica Apo 180/3.4 and most of those fancy 2.8 tele zooms) and while the Q is not necessarily the sharpest of the lot, it oozes character and I for one wouldn’t trade it for anything.
Thanks for bringing this miracle lens to my attention.
Greetings from Bavaria
Uli
Hi,
just a quick reply to everybody who has stuck at 60th command and cant get into program mode,check your Nikon camera (mine is Nikon D5100),it has a small black clip on the left hand side(if looking from the front). Press it and repeat steps for a cpu reset. It worked for me. I was getting message that aperture ring wasn’t locked and couldn’t enter programing mode.
This switch is on select Nikon DSLR bodies; neither my D2x or D3x has it. The location on the D5100 is shown below – Ed.
Awesome Article! Thank you! I am planning to do the same, but since I have an unused spare drive bay will take the sata power from there – is there any issue with the power there being ok – since you mentioned not to take any power from those on-board plugs meant from gfx card ??
The sole issue is the loss of a drive bay. If that works for you, it’s fine. – Ed.
Thomas, many, many thanks. Here in Brazil we live in a kind of a fantasy island with little real stuff, regarding photography. Your post is awesome, I’ve four AI Nikkors and I’ll try your prescriptions, very accurate indeed, althought my D7K has 9 non-cpu lenses to be registrered, as you noticed. Having a CPU lens is reallly a boost, I never imagined it possible! Great post!
Regards!
Stunning view, so true. Many aficionados of Leica would claim otherwise!
Sadly it’s all true. i have used Leica M3 since 1966. Present M3 from 67.
First destroyed. My M2 again is great. The M6, a sad forward move.
Great! there is a meter, flare and a feeling not an M3/M2.
jason gold.
I managed to find a Nikon 500mm Reflex (N) brand new in an unopened box from the owner of a local camera store that closed not long ago. That was the find of the century for me. I was going to sell it on eBay but couldn’t resist trying it out. I found everything you shared about this lens to be spot on. It is definitely not a point and shoot kind of lens, but I love it. I will need to install a CPU on it to help with focusing. Attached is a cropped image of the Moon I took a few hours ago with my D7000. Not bad, not bad at all. Thanks for a great article!
Frank Jr.
Hi, thank you for this wonderful tutorial! Today I tried to install a chip on a 50 mm f/1.8-22 Nikon Series E lens. I’ve got the old edition (black ring), wich has a signaling pin notch (like common AI-s lenses).
I’ve a Nikon D5200, so I can’t use lens’ aperture ring.
So, I’ve completely programmed the chip with actual lens parameters, but I see a very bad linearity of exposures at different apertures (almost 1 stop at apertures between f/4.5 and f/8!).
Is this lens really AI-s? Do you know why I’ve this non-linearity?
Thank you!
Niki
If the lens has the scalloped cut out in the bayonet mounting flange it is AiS. It looks like your body may be the cause of the anomaly owing to its inability to pass aperture control to the lens’s aperture ring. -Ed.
AiS scallop on a Series E 75-150mm zoom.
Great job of reviewing this tablet. Your review was just what I was looking for to educate myself about Mini vs N7.
Thanks a lot.
There are 10 kinds of people: those who understand binary systems and those who don’t.
The more I use this lens the more I am impressed with it. On September 18th I took this image of the moon using the same camera as before. This time it was a full moon referred to as the “Harvest Moon”. The last full Moon before Fall of the year.
I can confirm that the D3200 can in fact program the lens but it seems to exit programming mode if the camera is allowed to go into power saving mode, so you will want to put in a longer timeout in the settings menu.
I added mavericks to my (new) imac and found that I can no longer print from Lightroom to my Epson 3800. Epson says the mavericks drivers for these printers are not yet available, “check back soon”
Here is epson’s response (today, 10/27) to request for stylus pro 3800 OS X 10.9 drivers
Printer Driver
10/15/13 More Info
Description:
An OS X 10.9 compatible Printer Driver for this model is not yet available but is coming soon. Please check back for availability.
Compatible Systems: Mac OS X (v10.9.x)
Hi Thomas, I have started using focus block on my chipped 200mm f4 Nikkor-Q and I think it is fantastic, really much faster than using the dot and much more spot on than I could ever judge. I also turned this on for my 50mm F1.4 ai’d but the focus seems really bad when holding down the shutter and turning the focus. I read your article about adjusting the focus point in the CPU but I don’t believe that would help here. If you start focussed too near and go forward you will get the focus too near in the image and vice-versa if focussed too far. I noticed that if I just use the dot that it lights over too a broad range of foci. This is with my D3200 body in AF-C mode. If I put it in MF mode (so shutter can be triggered anytime and viewfinder bargraph shows focus instead of exposure) then using the bargraph gives accurate focus in good light. I have the same problem at F5.6 as I do at F1.4, although less obvious due to increased DOF. Weird!
Like!
I enjoyed your series on the GX7. I want it, it is affordable, but I don’t really need it right now. I don’t have the 20mm and I know you dislike it. However, I saw a post where on a GH3, the old 20mm focuses faster than the Leica DG 25mm on a GH2. The GX7 may have the same focusing logic as the GH3. Worth re-testing the 20mm on the GX7. Here is the link.
My Hartmann card case lasted 31 years. Received it as a college graduation gift and have used it daily.
After serving me well all that time, it finally met it’s demise, but I’m about to break in it’s replacement now.
If this one lasts another 31, it may survive me.
Simple and trustworthy, indeed.
Beautiful. Thank you.
The reason that you don’t get the correct orientation on older Panasonic bodies, is that Panasonic, in their wisdom, implemented the orientation sensor in the OIS mechanism of the lens.
So if the lens isn’t stabilized, no orientation sensor either. Panasonic have now rectified this and have added an orientation sensor in most of the new bodies …
I think you are going to like the 17mm; I do enjoy mine.
Be very judicious with the non-OEM spare battery. Once, I made the mistake of running it empty and it died a terrible death. Corrupted the entire SD card and I lost all my precious video clips/photos from that shoot.
Wonderful review, thank you! I too am liking the electronic/silent shutter mode on my G5, however have had to be careful to avoid the indoor lighting issues and the more frequently encountered than expected (albeit subtle) “rolling shutter” issues. In that regard, was “tattoo dude” shot while panning?
Hmmm. I really don’t know. This sort of thing is a ‘stream of consciousness’ blur for me, a sort of informed autopilot mindset! – Ed.
Excelent Series of 2009 Mac pro articles. I recently bought a used Mac pro 2009 2×2.66 MHz CPU and I was wondering if it was a good decision. I could not have received better advice than yours in such a clear explanation!! Thank you very much for all the hints and precious information!!
It might be that B&H has a new part number for the battery.
I am skeptical to after-market batteries too, as many of them don’t report its charge level back to the camera; so I don’t get an indication whether the battery is getting flat or not. Neither does the camera, so it will just shut off abruptly when the battery runs out of juice. I have only gotten a few thrashed files; getting a thrashed SD card is worse, but in worst case (theoretically), one could end up with a trashed camera.
It is Dec 2013, and I’ve just purchased my 35mm 1.4 a few days ago. All I can say is, nothing has changed – and I wish I came across your post sooner. I’ve spent 2 excruciating days trying to fine tune the focus using the USB dock, thinking that I was losing the plot when neither going + or – seemed to solve the AF issues. I had a feeling that maybe, the Sigma’s AF just sucked. Then I saw this post of yours and it confirms it. Now I don’t know whether or not to try and exchange the lens or to fight for a refund. This is ridiculous.
I have been shooting with all Nikkor only lenses and none of them miss this often. If the Nikkor fails to obtain focus, it generally starts “hunting”. With the Sigma, it ALWAYS confirms the AF… which causes the user to think he/she actually nailed focus. Very dangerous lens to buy IMHO.
Yes, their QC is awful. That said, a good Sigma is quite a bit better than the far costlier Nikkor G. Why not exchange it? Reckon on 2 or 3 samples to get a good one and you end up with the best 35mm lens available, but there’s no excusing this company’s shoddy execution. This is the first and last Sigma optic I will buy, for this very reason. – Ed
Interesting. Thanks.
Hi Ed,
Thanks for writing back. I’ve got a Sigma 150mm 2.8 that was fabulous, hence I had faith in Sigma at one point. I thought that only people with issues were complaining on the forums about the 35mm, hence I couldn’t be that unlucky – guess I lucked out. 🙁
I want to exchange it but I don’t know if the store here in Australia’s going to say “no, we’re gonna send it to Sigma to get it fixed instead – you’ll need to wait”. If that’s the case, I’m gonna be furious.
I’ve got a question for you though, if you were at a store (and it was sorta dimly lit), would you try testing the lens out there? It’s hard to see if you nailed focus especially with this 35mm that only exhibits issues past 3 meters. I’ve got a D600 and small details are hard to make out at that distance on the playback display. Sorry for the rant, I’m just stressed out that I don’t know what I’m saying anymore. I’m going to the store tomorrow to see what options I have. I really want a good copy of this lens and would gladly pay double if I had to.
‘Tests’ which use the camera’s LCD to evaluate AF are, IMO, a complete waste of time. Take your teat images and process them at home in the usual way. That reflects real world use.
As for the faulty lens you bought, I would simply insist on a replacement. I don’t know what the lemon laws are in Australia, but you got a lemon. You paid for a lens. – Ed.
Thomas, I am so sorry for your loss. Over the years of reading your blog (and the story of your life), I came to love Bert for who he was and for the joy he brought in your life. May he rest in peace, and may the passage of time fill the loss in your and Winston’s heart.
Hi..thanks for the great tutorial..I just bought this CPU.. my Ai-s lens is Nikkor 800mm f5.6..can it work with this lens?? I use a d700 body..thanks
Yes it can be used but you need to do some work. As your image of the lens’s flange, below, shows, there is no protruding lip to which the CPU can be glued. The CPU – green box – is installed with the fourth pin aligned with the red-circled screw. Thus you must first glue in an arc of plastic or metal inside the barrel at the green box location which will protrude to the depth of the CPU. Then you glue the CPU to that protrusion. You can fashion the glued-in piece form scrap metal or plastic, it’s not hard if you are handy.
Green rectangle denotes location of CPU, red circle is the alignment mark for the fourth pin – three pins to the right clockwise is the correct orientation.
Alternatively, while it’s hard to make out from your picture, above, if the rear black portion of the barrel is plane with the chromed bayonet, you can simply glue the CPU, flat side down, to the black portion of the rear flange, such that the CPU’s pins do not protrude beyond the outer edge of the bayonet.
For best results I would do both – install a protruding arc of material and glue the CPU both to that (on its inner concave surface) and also put some epoxy on the curved, flat lower surface of the CPU where it contacts the existing black part of the rear of the lens. – Ed.
January, 2014 – Here are the reader’s images of the CPU installation on his 800mm Nikkor – nice job!:
Thomas, I am curious if the body and the lens are manufactured in Japan?
All of the GX7, the 17/1.8 Oly and 45/1.8 Oly I own say “Made in Japan” – Ed.
Dear Mr Pindelski –
Thank you – years after you prepared this article it remains a godsend (any chance you could do the same for all HP’s other products?) Merry Christmas
Thomas, thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I was searching the internet trying to find out why my newly created lcp files were not being used in LR 5. I first created it with JPG files, then tried TIF files – no luck. Then I stumbled across your other posting stating that I had to use DNG files. Bingo! That worked. I have created a bare bones lcp file for a 28-80 Nikon lightweight zoom (only 7 ounces) that I carry on my D600 when backpacking. Thanks again.
I just got the 500m Reflex C. Sharpness is unreal. I will use with the Sony EH50 and VG 20 for both stills and video, the latter, always with a tripod. 🙂 Good article here for sure.
A group of people with more years ahead of them than behind them. An excellent set of photos to start a new year.
What software did you use for your xrite i1D1 colorimeter? When I upgraded Match3 no longer worked. Thanks.
Dan – see below. Works with Mavericks 10.9 and 10.9.1 – Thomas
Yes, I agree. Bless you for writing this article. Gabrielle, interesting about the paper causing the problem. I’m glad you found the problem.
Another thing I can add to this article is this: if the printer is acting very strangely – multiple printheads failing, or the carriage freezes, for no apparent reason – suspect the OOPS (out of paper sensor). It’s a simple fix to clean it, but this little sensor caused me many hours of confusion and grief!! The diagnostic codes did not indicate a sensor problem at all. Another important tip: if a printhead is not recognized by the printer, you can remove the 4 contacts on the back of the printhead (they are just glued on – peel them off carefully.) Use the contacts from an old printhead that is recognized by the printer, but is otherwise kaput. You don’t need to add more glue, there should be enough on the back. Stick it on carefully in the correct position, and the printer will now recognize it. These printers are great, if you can figure out how to fix them. Good luck to all! – Kathy
For instructions on how to replace the out-of-paper sensor, refer to page 7-68 of the Maintenance Manual which you can download here:
Click to download the HP DesignJet Service Manual brochure.
Thomas
Thank you for the service manual link! So helpful – thank you again. I love your sense of humor. We were laughing about the comment that “real men don’t need instructions.” We have 6 of these wonderful printers (well, it’s a love/hate relationship). You’ve helped us immensely.
Nor do ‘real women’ …..! Thomas
I was very happy with this Sigma 35mm when it was working. However, i need a lens that will just AF properly for me. i have tested 5 off the shelf copies and NONE worked properly. QC? i honestly think its more than a QC issue.
Nick – eloquently stated. My experience suggests I never want to be within a country mile of another Sigma ‘bargain price’ optic, though I was lucky to finally got one which works. – Thomas.
Fantastic. Wonderful all around, so many things here. And… you could not have planned for better light highlighting the profile of the gentleman in the corner.
I have recently returned to film photography with the purchase of a very clean Nikon F. In the spirit of the Nikon’s vintage I acquired a copy of this lens. I have to say photographing with this lens is one of those rare times when everything feels “just right”. The feel and the operation of the lens and camera are worth the cost of admission. I had forgotten how much of a pleasure it is to use a fine mechanical instrument like the “F” and this lens. The resulting images from this combination are better than I ever expected. The short comings of this lens with color film are well documented but I feel are more than a bit overstated. I am more than pleased with my color film results and the B&W photographs have pushed me back into serious film photography. If you are at all tempted by this lens by all means give it a try. You’re in for a treat! Thanks for the fine review.
Great photo. So was this shot on the Leica or Panasonic? I’ve been reading your posts for many years.
Thanks, Adam. If you believe in satire and actually click thorugh to the Amazon Leica ‘review‘, you will know the answer. – Ed.
I just bought off ebay a Nikkor-H 85mm F1.8 Non-AI….finding these images and instructions here give me hope that I can do this to put the lens on my Nikon D3!
Cheers!
She, Mary Ellen Mark and Jill Krementz are three women doing amazing work from the 1960s on, even if Annie L. is more well-known because of her commercial work. Freedman’s “Old News: Resurrection City” (1970) is still one of my favorite books.
I just picked up a 1971 vintage Nikkor-Q 200/4 at a local camera shop for US $39 in EX+ condition and must concur that it is a real jewel. While not as sharp as my AI-S version of the same lens, the ‘Q’ just exudes character. I would call the rendering smooth and round with a beautiful out of focus area presentation. It’s a fun lens to mount on the Df. Probably the only down side is the “close” focus is only 7ft, not really suitable for use in close quarters!
Thomas,
Thank you for blogging about these DesignJets. I had left my old DJ 130 unused in an attic for more than a year… dusty, sad looking, a mouse had even lived inside it for a while! I cleaned it up and printed a test page, and was surprised to see that all the heads worked perfectly. – For a while… then Yellow stopped printing. Readers of this blog of course know why: the yellow tube was clogged.
I took it apart and followed the method explained by Hanzzz above. I inserted a syringe (from an ink refill kit for a different printer) in the end where the print head is fed, and managed to “massage” the clots in the tube while injecting hot water. I also injected water from the other end (after disconnecting the Cartridge end of the tube). The clots dissolved completely and the tube was 100% clean after a few syringefulls of water.
Finally, I used the syringe to suck some yellow ink out of an old cartridge, which I then used to fill up the tube (i.e. priming it) before assembling everything. Worked first time, prints beautifully!
Here is a tip for dealing with electrical problems with the print heads (indicated by flashing printhead on the LCD display). This is caused by oxidized contacts on the printhead and in the printer itself. To fix it, spray a tiny amount of Deoxit D5 on a Q-tip, and wipe the contacts on the print head (and the mating contacts in the print head station). You can buy “Deoxit D5” on Amazon, eBay, etc. – It is a little expensive but 100% effective with this annoying problem.
Thomas,
A quick tip regarding installing USB drivers for these printers in Windows 7:
If you download the setup program “HP Designjet 130 Series PCL3GUI Installer” and run it on Windows 7, you will find that in fact this setup program doesn’t install the USB drivers properly – i.e. it fails miserably to install, doesn’t even find the printer and ends up stuck, unable to complete the job.
A simple workaround to this is to buy a JetDirect network card on eBay for around $10 – $15 used, and connect the printer over the network. That works fine, and the HP software installs and works.
However it is in fact possible to install the USB drivers on Windows 7 – but you do need to jump through a few hoops. The problem is that the driver file from HP doesn’t correctly map to the hardware ID that the DesignJet reports, so the setup program will never work.
However, HP does offers a separate, smaller Driver file on their web site, called “HP Designjet 30 and 130 PCL3GUI Driver” which can be modified to work.
1. Download the driver file above from the HP web site. Extract the contents into a folder.
2. Plug the printer into a USB port. Do a Properties on the printer in Device Manager, identify the “Hardware ID”
3. Going back to your downloaded driver, open the file dsgj110.inf and change the line that mentions your printer so it now contains the correct hardware ID reported by the printer. For example,
“HP Designjet 130nr”= DJ130,USBPRINT\Hewlett-Packardhp_de490D
4. Now simply install the driver using the standard Windows “Update Driver” function (Device Manager, Properties). Windows now finds the driver and installs flawlessly!
The HP system maintenance tool called “HP Designjet 30 and 130 System Maintenance Utility” seems to have no issues installing on Win 7 64 bit, and works great once the USB driver above has been installed.
Happy printing!
The book looks pretty nice too – thanks for the heads up!
D2X – I could not agree more! Buy a quality product used at a steep discount. Flagship Digital cameras seem to be like a Mercedes Benz, awesome things with terrible resale value. No matter – the Benz will keep you smiling for years and Nikon made it into Paul Simon’s song Kodachrome for a good reason. Well they took the Kodachrome away, but you can pretty much duplicate it in a D2X’s custom menus!
BTW – I got mine last week for $500 with 24,875 clicks!!
Just finished my third conversion (300mm f4.5 pre ai-$69 on eBay) per your excellent instructions, and it works great on my D7000, as do the others. Many thanks for this great resource.
Thanks for this bit you provided, so much differing unqualified opinion exist today regarding these gems that it is refreshing to read praise. The H version was primarily created to be a photojournalist/press lens specific for B&W photography use. The later HC version was to obviously enhance color. Having the HC to use for B&W is not necessarily worth the extra expense at all. We are lucky to have in Nikon a company thoughtful to share it’s historical side and to provide us this ability to understand why a particular lens was developed. The lens is truly a historical icon, from ringside to rice paddy, images captured with these lenses are our world history illustrated in the media of new era dawning. My version is as sharp as my Nikkor P.C 105mm f2.5, but the color I believe lags a bit (which is probably true for about 99% of all other lenses as well). This H version is just a stellar B&W performer anyone should have just for that purpose or intent only.
Your old Canon 5D lives on! I still use it regularly. I am currently waiting on one of the Lomo Kickstarter Petsval lenses to use with it.
It’s still great and is proof a well made (and maintained!! thank you for that) body is still a valid and fun tool 7??? years later.
I have cleaned the sensor several times (I tend to leave a lens on for a while) and have cleaned the focusing screen, other than that it is my goto full frame full body DSLR.
I carry the little Sony RX100II with me everywhere I go but the Canon is always with me when I expect to be shooting some real keepers.
Many thanks again
Barry Burris
Very nice post, Thomas. We’ll be sure to visit the museum next time we are there in the area. Thanks.
HP 130 C7791C
Mac, connected via USB
I ran a printhead alignment from the front panel (Power+ Cancel 0x, OK3x). It showed no black or lt cyan (or cyan I’m not sure) and I have run the alignment several times with just the faintest bit of improvement. I’m now getting just a little bit of ink from the black and cyan, but I’m nowhere close to good. I’d like to run the Printhead recovery functions – but – the printer is “stuck” in Printhead Alignment mode. When I turn it off and back on it requests paper and then runs the alignment again.
It seem like it does not want to do anything until the alignment test is good. Is there a way to get out of this cycle? I’d like to run the printhead recoveries, see if I can get ink flowing, before I spend on new heads, cartridge or tube assembly.
Thanks Thomas for this awesome forum – thank you to everyone else for sharing your discoveries and knowledge.
-William
Your printheads and/or feed tubes are clogged. Do the simple thing first. Pull one of the bad printheads, wipe it in acetone (careful! Do not soak it in acetone – the plastic will melt) then flush with tap water. Retry. If that fails, access the feed tubes and check for clogs – flush or replace. – Ed.
Thank you for the best how-to I’ve ever seen for adding a card to a Mac Pro. The clarity and precision of the text and photos are exemplary. It’s a pleasure reading the work of someone who is articulate and takes the time to sweat the details. I followed the URL back to the other sections of your website and look forward to reading your blog and checking out your photos. Thanks again.
Alternative title: “It’s all a matter of perspective”. Yes, it is is amazing how facile children are with that. Great fun.
I’m at the second copy of Sigma 18-35, and have the same problem with AF. Beyond 2m there’s no tune value (set via Sigma dock) that works. At 2m it’s one value at 5m the other, at 10m… A s*ity AF performances equals a s*ity lens. Good for closeups, landscapes via LV and nothing else.
I don’t have any more time to waste on traveling to the place I’ve bought the lens (neighboring country), to argue with the store staff or to wait for another copy… So I consider it a money thrown away.
Sigma can make the sharpest lenses, but thats all for nothing with such bad AF performance. I certainly won’t by another one, and will advise everybody I know not to gamble with their time and money.
I have to agree with that sentiment. The amount of time I wasted in getting a ‘good one’ of the 35/1.4 was very costly. I would buy the 35mm Nikkor G f/1.4 next time – the premium is considerably less than my time is worth. – Ed.
Hello,
Thanks for the instructions on how to convert the UD 20mm – I followed your advice and it worked out fine.
Like the lens a lot and made some nice pictures with it through the years.
Regards,
Karl Sweden
Twenty years ago I started shooting with a Nikon FM. After 10 film cameras, I moved to a D1x last year, and then to a D2x, which I picked up for $800 with less than 1,000 clicks. I do some microstock photograph, and shoot a lot. The D2x is just fantastic. I have wondered, when doing bird photography, if there is any advantage to using the crop mode. Has anyone found that helpful?
It’s a useless feature. Cropping in camera and cropping in Photoshop yield the same IQ, but with the latter you at least have the option whether to crop or not. Crop in camera and all the extra information is lost forever. – Ed.
Thanks so much for your reply. I haven’t found many people that I can talk about the D2x with. I’ve been sharpening the photos in Photoshop with Nik Sharpener Pro, and using Topaz DeNoise to deal with the noise. I’m no expert with either Photoshop or Lightroom, but this seems to work okay.
Yes the PCH is a religious experience, I rode that stretch from Half Moon Bay to Torrance with my older brother in an even worse car than a Volvo could ever hope to be, a ’75 Chevy Vega. We hung in there til Torrance but the driving was light to light from Malibu on down. I had no camera to record the trip, but the memories are still vivid.
PCH from Camp Pendleton to roughly San Diego. Stop at the Belly Up in Solana Beach and listen to BB King play for 3 dollars. Oh yeah, and do it on two wheels. Of course, you’ll have to do it in 1982, ’cause it ain’t there anymore.
Ah, yes. I don’t mind people using plastic cameras, but calling it return to the photographic basics and such, please… It’s plastic, for heaven’s sake. Mind you, don’t forget the new scourge – the dreaded cell phone camera. I can just see a gallery note: Exploiting the possibilities of cutting edge digital technology, the Artist uses heavy pixelation to explore the essential building blocks of visual perception. Ah, marketing is a wondrous thing, indeed…
I agree completely…lenscaps are merely things to fret about losing and the cases are downright ugly (and add weight and size. My QL17 has no case, cap or strap, it is held by anchoring my thumb against the advance lever. Simmilarly, my Rolleicord has been freed from it’s case and has never been happier.
great blog!
Cute. Wait till you discover the guilty world of roll film backs and your conversion will be complete.
Denton: LF newbie too.
The trouble always starts at the printer 🙂
CMYK (K stands for Key)
Thomas, I enjoyed your blog a lot, “Quality Time with Ansel” being a high point. Please don”t give up on it, you don’t seem to have posted anything in months.
Keep on, we’re out there listening!
Christoph
Yes, we are chipping away at the great photographic trade imbalance. At last count, 9.865 out of 10 Canadian photographers bought their equipment mail order from the US (or ebay).
It is great to get a little further into the field with a little less discomfort.
I really enjoy reading your postings,
great stuff, keep it up.
Hi Thomas, nice to read about your change to digital. I made this change too and i am having a nice time with my pentax ist ds…
For me the biggest issue with DSLRs is the FOV crop…but the 5d is a full frame sensor, so this problem is gone for you…
I started as you did..shoting JPG and trying to get a perfectly exposed JPG to do less in PS…My camera tend to underexpose some pictures and i changed to spot metter too, but now i am using RAW..of course i am trying to get the best exposed image that will genarate a good RAW, but i do a lot of corrections in RAW, exposure corrections and some sharpness…
Try to explore RAW…you will see the difference..it is a lot better tha JPG. You will only need a software that organizes your workflow…camera raw is very slow..and dosn´t has a good workflow…Try phase one software (capture one pro)
My camera is a 6mp sensor, wich, for me, produces very good images…i really don´t need more at this time.
I am using some old pentax lens, manual focus and with A at aperture…some 50mm 1.7 and a 28mm 2.8 …i have also a 24mm 1.8 (sigma)..i like old lens, because the quality is very good, they are sharp and have minor flare problems…and they are very little and well built…
I didn´t know about this blog…i i will try to visit more often..
Thanks for all the information
all the best
Daniel G.
from Brazil
Hey..if you have some time visit my page at flicker (i put the link as my webpage here)…i have some street and documentary pictures there and would love to know your opinion…
Great information Thomas. I have recently switched to digital (Nikon – I had a fair amount of Nikon glass that needed home) and am very, very happy. The quality of the images is fantastic. I just printed 30”x16” and it’s stunning. I imagine Canon produces similar results. The only thing I would like to challange you on is the strap. Canon cannot possibly make the worst strap – it’s got to be the Nikon. It boggles the mind that these guys can perform true engineering feats, but can’t design a damn strap.
I am trying to shot, and leave my digital pictures in color…I am having a very difficult task trying to find the “look” that i like…sometimes i prefer more contrast…sometimes less saturation..sometimes more vivid colors…i don´t know…maybe i will stay in some point like this..a more natural and “real” look..
BTW..this old lens seems perfect to me…I am too using some old manual focus lens at my digital camera.
I am in awe. Just..wow! Not only are your pictures extremly vibrant with color but just the way you describe your thoughts and feelings in such detail about those pictures, during the act of taking the pictures and how you came across that perfect scene. You are an inspiration Sir. Thank you.
You didn’t think you were the only one who rejoiced at the sight of perfectly positioned rainbows did you? 😉 Obviously the birds are taking in the view just as you were. I’m sure if you look close enough you might see one of them hunched over and squinting through a tiny viewfinder too.
I have used a Leica M6 for the last 15 years and even though I now have Fuju Finepix S3 Pro which is fantastic, the M6 is still a contant companion. The quality of the light in every picture because of the lenses is special, and the cameras small size and silence, makes you nearly invisible to the people you photograph.
I think film will still be available 10 years from now, but it will be a very small niche.
Thanks for an excellent blog.
Film has been dead for me, no more darkrooms, no more chemical odors. From a Mavica in ’99 to a 20D now, I am enjoying every bit of digital. Not to say that I was not as fascinated as everyone else at seeing the Polaroids of yesteryear, or the 24 hours photos – now an hour is not quick enough.
On Kodak’s behalf, they have a bunch of smart folks, both designing innovative stuff (V-570) and software (Digital SHO).
And Aunt Minnie didn’t like me anyway . . .
Thanks for the history.
film is dead for me to, since 1997. I use canon slr and i dont’need my old pentax 6×7 any more. I write from italy, and in 2001 i made one of the first photographic books completely made in digital in my nation.
Film is definitively dead.
I am too not a great fan of Winogrand, a friend photographer studied with him at UT and thinks he is great. I have Winogrand 64 book and there are some nice images and I actually like the book.I use to watch him in NY shooting sometimes during my lunch hour and that was wild. He truly did burn the film
I came to your blog because of the hp printer. I want to upgrade and cannot find many that have the hp 90 or 130 instead of epson. Interested in the long run how you will like it. For the money HP printers are cheap compared to some of the epsons,thanks
“HP does not supply a USB cable (how cheap is that?) ”
King Gillette gave them the idea. Low-end printers are (after rebate) free. HP makes money selling the ink cartridges. The store makes money selling overpriced cables.
But you’d think they might want to coddle the customers at the high end.
Hmm, I betcha I’m your S. Korea hit.
Although I just ordered a Canon EOS 5D and probably won’t shoot as much slide film anymore, I can’t help thinking film is VERY MUCH ALIVE if I see my 6×6 shots (Kodak E100G, Bronica S2a, ~1969) on the light box of fall colours in Norway last September. Gorgeous! It would be a little bit more difficult to appreciate DVDs…
I also know a friend who shoots slides besides his 300D because he likes the look better. Also, a stock bureau person I spoke used a Sensia slide of mine, scanned and blown up to poster size – he has a Nikon D2X and says it is inadequate for this kind of enlargements (1 m). But yes, for up to A3 size I assume digital is better nowadays. The big advantage of digital is smaller weight and incredible flexibility. Th disadvantage, storage….?
After I applied 1.0.5 update, I found a problem in Av mode shooting at ISO 3200. The image (with white background) had a band of brown cast over the white background. I try the exact setting in manual mode and the image came out perfectly white. So I can tell there is a problem in Av mode for sure. I’m wondering if it is a common problem with the new firmware 1.0.5 or just my 5D. By the way, I didn’t have this problem with firmware 1.0.3. How can I revert back to the old version?
Well, I just tried it on an image with a white background on Av at 1600 and 3200 and there is no cast at 3200, so it may be your camera. I don’t know whether you can revert to 1.0.3. Have you tried reinstalling 1.0.5? If it helps, my 5D’s serial number is 0620305xxx.
Thanks for the reply. Another photographer who upgraded the firmware with me at the same time had the exact same problem. The color of cast might be influenced by the lighting (fluorescent). Can you try under this kind of lighting and compare your results with images using Av mode and manual mode at ISO 3200? I’ll try if I can reinstall from a fresh download of 1.0.5.
I’ll try next time I’m in fluorescent lighting. I don’t have any at home. My test was of an overcast whitish sky in the local landscape.
I trashed my downloaded copy of 1.0.3 but I’ll bet if you post your question to one of the more popular chat boards someone will still have a copy. The only snag I see is that the camera LCD asks whether you want to ‘update’, suggesting that going back may not be possible. Maybe you can rename the 1.0.3 file to 1.0.6 to fool it before updating? Just thinking out loud.
I e-mailed Canon support and was asked to send my 5D in for service. It sounds like there was no way to downgrade. Otherwise, they would have just e-mailed me 1.0.3. 🙂 Since I shoot in manual mode most of the time (in studio and weddings), I can live with the Av mode problem. However, knowing this problem, I’m afraid that the camera might give up on me at the most critical time during a wedding. Anyway, I think the problem is that Canon forgot to run noise reduction for the Av mode in 1.0.5. In your case, when you shoot outdoor with enough light, the noise level is very low, therefore, you can’t see the color cast. My test was done in a studio with a solid white background without flash. The low room light causes a lot of noise for ISO 3200 to capture. Without the internal noise reduction logic, the noise would show up as a color cast since the backgroup is solid white. I think my analysis might make sense since the manual mode seems to produce a clean image!
I am by no means an expert, but I seem to recall that some non-dedicated flash units apply a very high trigger voltage between the hot shoe base and the central contact. These voltages may damage the sensitive electronics in modern electronic cameras. The flash connector at the side of the 5D body is made to withstand considerably higher voltages. Robin, The Netherlands
That’s a valid point. I use a later model Vivitar 283 with low triggering voltage (earlier ones were higher) and for my Novatron studio flash I add a small adapter between the power pack and the camera which reduces the triggering voltage ‘seen’ by the camera. I would, however, be interested in a definitive source for your statement that the two flash sockets on the camera differ in regard to voltage sensitivity.
I can always count on you as an accurate barometer of good visual taste. Agreed. Ed
I shoot close up macro in the studio.
I am wondering if the 1Ds Mark2 would be enough of a image quality for advertising or do I need to step it up to one of those backs made by Phaseone, Leaf, Sinar, Foveo, Bayer?..I dont know the names…but they are twice or more than the 1Ds mark2. I have a 4×5 F2 but I would need to upgrade the back standard to P2,P3 to use a back. I am not enlarging these much at all…but some cropping (not much). I am looking for that Large format quality of gradations in saturation and clarity. Will I get that with the Canon 1Ds or 1Ds mark2 or, do I need to go to something bigger..even more so than the Mamiya DZ?
thanks for any feedback.
Leo
Leo – I use a Canon EOS 5D and still use film in my 4″x5″, so I cannot objectively answer your question.
You may like to try this article on the Luminous Landscape site which compares large format film with digital, though I would take it with a pinch of salt as the author’s many laudatory pieces on Canon gear suggest he thinks Canon can do no wrong.
A related piece on large format digital, albeit at a huge investment, appears here.
Interesting reading – printed my first sheet today on a 90r, taken with a 5D.
Yes that LLandscape does mention important stuff…It usually looks at things in regards to 30×40 printing…Huge. I dont need any larger than 13×19…but want to be as sharp and focused as possible. I am looking for the best quality of sensor, using the best glass. I am using Leica glass, and I am looking closer to the Fuji S3 sensor, since it is something with 2 different sizes?…I was hoping someone seasoned, and knowledgeable by experience can chime in and set my mind at ease, before I decide on 1Ds, !Ds Mark2, or Fuji S3, ..Kodak DCS?…or leave those behind, and justify a P25 or some back under $10K….
Also regarding the sensor of the 1Ds Mark2..the photosites are smaller with larger filter over them to help with noise dynamic range..as in the 1Ds the photosites are larger…Both being full frame they had to make smaller closer photosites to up the resolution from the 1Ds. So yes the res is higher…but is the quality also higher or?
More I think of it, more I should do all my prelim shoots with my digi and keep doing the final in 4X5 film? ARRRGHHH what a torchure!
Leo
If you are only going to make 13″ x 19″ prints, save your money. Output from the 5D cannot be distinguished from top of the line medium format at that print size. Even a 350D at one third of the price will do. I speak from experience.
Thanks, it is terrific to read a review by someone more interested in photography than technology.
Bill
“some purple fringing on bright color edges… can be easily taken out with ACR’s controls.”
Could you detail this a little ? What do you call ACR’s controls ?
Many thanks
Michel
FYI, Pixmantec’s Raw Shooter Premium RAW conversion software will handle the LX1 RAW files, and it has automatic chromatic abberition correction as well, which is similar to the on-camera Venus II engine. The free Raw Shooter Essentials may handle it as well.
Michel – when you load a file into Adobe Camera Raw (PS CS2) you will see an adjustment slider for correcting the color fringing defect.
Thomas
Dan – the Pixmantec product only works on Windows computers. As long time readers of this blog know, I strongly recommend against the use of Windows for photo processing in the interest of sanity. The author uses Apple computers exclusively for that reason.
Thomas
Quite interesting, I believe NoiseNinja + slight sharpening could solve part of the Raw and the result would be better than Jpeg. Would be nice if you could try.
Many thanks anyway for this very helpful real use review.
Michel
Thanks Thomas for this explanation, now I am fixed up.
You wrote:
> The thing no one needs: Page 129. The Zeiss Ikon rangefinder body for film at all of $1,617
Well, not so fast. Aren’t you forgetting your past (and the shutter noise this page make upon loading)? This is, in essence, a slightly cheapened (where it doesn’t matter), better film-loading Leica M body. Granted, the shutter IS noisier.
But film rangefinder cameras are still needed, wouldn’t you agree?
Christoph
Christoph –
No, I do not agree. Not remotely.
Film is Dead. The modern replacement for the rangefinder camera with film is a small point-and-shoot digital like the Leica DP, where you get a Leica lens, far less bulk – a throwback to the Barnack Leicas if you like – comparable image quality and negligible shutter lag (finally!). It is smaller, by the way, than any Barnack Leica ever was. And much, much quieter. Plus you don’t have to worry about exposure and focus – just get on with making pictures.
Take a look back at my columns on the EOS 5D and you will see that it was a replacement for my medium format gear, not for my Leica. The Panasaonic Lumix LX1 (or Leica DP as I think of it) is the replacement for my M2 and M3. Low light photography? Granted, the Lumix has a slowish lens; once Canon sensor qualty comes to cameras this small, you will be able to crank up the ISO to compensate without any fear of grain (just like you already can on the EOS 5D) and use your Noctilux for the expensive paperweight it deserves to become. Great in its time, certainly. But no longer needed. Meanwhile, the noise issue with the Leica DP is well handled by software like Noise Ninja.
Very nice article. Thanks for sharing it with us. I just bought a Rebel XT and was looking for a cheap way to get a wide angle. Unfortunately I’m still in high school so it will be a while before I finish paying off my Rebel and can think about more lenses.
Herr – thanks. As I mention above, for a 1.6x cropped sensor body like your Rebel, the fisheye is a lousy choice – you lose most of the effect owing to the sensor just using the central part of the image. So you end up paying for something you cannot take full advantage of. Look for a zoom wide – maybe a non-Canon brand – if you want a wide effect on your Rebel. I’ll bet you can get something that goes down to 12mm, which is equivalent to 19mm on a full frame. That’s pretty wide.
I just bought this lens for my Rebel 300D. You do lose the enhanced fish eye look, but you still have a slight fish eye look. It’s wider than my 18mm-55 kit and lines curve slightly. I haven’t used it enough yet, but I didnt know if I would get any fish eye effect. I do – but its not too fisheye so I hope it will work out. Otherwise I will by the EF-S 10-22mm
Thanks for that – I now have another three posts that I missed on new tabs to read. God knows what I’ll have to buy after that – it’s your fault I’ve got Aperture now, although it is great so thank you for that too. Keep them coming.
Thomas,
You have the architectural version according to an online tripod parts site. I have the one without
the lip.
John
I think someone is filming a movie about her…Let´s see what image of her they will paint.
I agree with you…Fakes of freaks…Today photographers are going to Africa to get these fakes in B&W.
Nice reading.
Daniel
P.S. Where could I see these contact sheets ?
This book has her contact sheets.
You can bet the film will elevate her to Hollywood sainthood, meaning that she will mercifully be forgotten two weeks afer the premiere.
On a 1.3x crop sensor, the FOV effectively becomes 16mm when the corrections are applied? (15mm x 1.3 = 19.5mm add lens correction for 16.5mm) Or am I missing something?
Ed – your math is correct for a 1.3x sensor. My example, above, was for the more common 1.6x.
Thanks, Tom. This seems like a viable solution for my UWA needs. Having the opportunity to gain a 16mm FOV perspective on my 1.3x crop sensor without vignetting is exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thanks for your time and research.
Panoramas are beautiful. And these are beautifully executed.
“Most people go through life dreading they’ll have a traumatic experience. Freaks were born with their trauma. They’ve already passed their test in life. They’re aristocrats.”
We know that Arbus had a sheltered, affluent upbringing. She suggests that this is a debilitating environment, one where people live in fear of trauma. She also would have been well acquainted with the oppressive, cruel, inescapable power of “class, of decorum, of decency”, everything in the purview of good taste. Rather than her conscience catching up with her, I think this dread and powerlessness is what overwhelmed her.
Enjoyed your website. Just recently discovered.
Digital’s biggest drawback is complete lack of depth. Digital photos simply look flat next to film and consequently a lack of realism. Try Canon, same lens, same subject but different system. Evfen the sample comparison 4×5 and EOS 5D shows. It is not just resolution and software still not quite there to add depth.
Thomas, I really like your site and enjoyed your panos with sound. It is nice to have this as it still invokes the imagination as opposed to just watching a movie. I really like the sound from the Edirol and you may have convinced me to buy one and start doing some panos with my 5D/15mm combo. Thanks for spending so much time on a quality blog. I will be bookmarking your site. Regards.
Matthew Harris
second post; program did not like my email. Try again, but save first, this time!
Loved your review. I will get one. The LX-1 and LX-2 are the same price on bhphoto’s site—any advantage of one over the other, in your view?
As well, some additional detail on how you lined p te finder would be appreciated. I will probably get the 28/35 minifinder, just to have both; v. similar price. Regards, Kit
Kit – I cannot speak to the LX-2 as I have not used it. I would wait for DPreview.com to review it before making a decision – their reviews seem consistently objective and free from conflicts of interest. However, as the LX-1 has been discontinued, you should expect to pay less for it than for the successor LX-2.
Lining up the finder is easy. Place the camera on a tripod, place the loose finder on top until its field of view coincides with that on the LCD screen in the camera, place a small piece of masking tape along the left foot of the finder as a guideline, then glue the finder using this guide.
Great tips. Do you think it`s possible to do the the same with iWorks 1.0.2 and iPhoto 6.0.5?
What about the template you use, is it downloadable (lazy me)?
By the way, I really enjoy your site :-))
Best regards
Tor (from Norway)
Tor – the interoperability between Pages and iPhoto requires Pages 2.0.2 and iPhoto 6.05 (and Aperture 1.5 if you use that) – earlier versions will not work. Indeed, the Pages version is in turn an update to the one I originally purchased (v 2.0) – 2.0 requires the (free) downloadable upgrade to 2.0.2 to do what I illustrate. I suspect the currently shipped version of Pages is, indeed, 2.0.2, but that is not a free upgrade from Page 1.0.
If you want the ‘all black’ template I illustrate, when you have Pages 2.0.2 I can probably work out how to email it to you – I adapted it from one of the standard templates which comes with 2.0.
Thank you for your kind words on my site.
Thomas
Though I do agree photographers no longer have the huge name they had in the 20s-60s, I’m not sure whether there are no more great names. The 20s-60s was a period when the only viable visual mass media was photography. After the 60s the TV took over. That explains the downfall of magazines like Life. But still great names are part and parcel of our age. The visual media are more pronounced and more influentual than ever. Great names that come to mind? Salgado, LaChapelle, Eggleston, Testino. No doubt there are dozens if not hundreds of others.
You said, “Surf photographs on the Internet and you will see photography every bit as good as that of these masters”
And that’s true. All is not lost — take a gander at these:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_depth/6220402.stm
Some of those pictures are terrific. By 13 year-olds. How cool is that?
Tom Williams writes (I am posting this for him):
…. another possible choice for audio recording is the Wolverine MVP 9800. I got one for photo backup on vacation trips – it will read my SD cards and make a copy to it’s hard drive. It does have a internal LiIon rechargeable, and a laptop harddrive. The battery is a standard type and can be swapped in the field. The HD is also standard and can be user upgraded….
This looks really neat! Sigma has put up a fancy-schmancy web site for the doodad: http://www.sigma-dp1.com/
That’s an interesting link, Manu, thank you.
I learned a couple of interesting things from the PDF brochure they offer – the aspect ratio of the sensor is just like Leica’s – 3:2 – hooray!
And while there is no mention of shutter lag, my eye caught this reference:
Now THAT sounds encouraging. Let’s hope speed of recording is equalled by speed of shutter response. I’m optimistic, as this design clearly targets the street snapper, for whom any shutter lag is too much. We will see.
Thomas
I may agree with you that B&W is not the only form of Art and great color photography is much tougher to ‘do’, thus being more admirable when it’s achieved. Like your South Beach photo which reminds me of Saul Leiter’s work (cfr. Early Color, ed. Steidl), perhaps because of the old Kodachrome feel of the blues. Still, it’s a shame that you decided to deprive yourself of the good services of LensWork. After all, there can be great stuff in B&W, too! And thanks to digital, controlling B&W output has become much less frustrating and therefore more productive than it has ever been. Not all B&W is automatically Art of course, nor all photography should necessarily be Art in the first place. But it’s not our fault if most of the masters have chosen B&W as their medium of choice, even way after color became the default choice for casual photographers. I’m not talking about the masters of Art only, I’m also talking about the masters of photojournalism. Color is most times distracting noise, extra information that detracts from the essence of an image (esp. if you’re talking about people). When not distracting, it’s most times when the whole image is essentially monochrome (like your South Beac above); not by chance perhaps. So, long live B&W and long live color! There’s room for both. Just keep the pretentious people away, whichever their medium!
Best regards and thanks for your blogging.
Giovanni
Hi Thomas!
What’s up with the comments? Every entry of yours recently is ‘no comment’, but I suspect your loyal followers (me included daily) are commenting indeed (not daily I hope). Just very busy on other fronts, I guess. Hope all is well with you, and regards,
Giovanni
Giovanni –
I don’t know what’s up with Comments – I went from getting a lot, including spam, to none, and I tend to approve everything, as long as it’s constructive.
I suspect that one contributing reason is that I frequently state strong opinions which do not rest easily with the implicit mass market status quo. Add the fact that I accept no advertising and, consequently, have no axe to grind for any manufacturer or product, and you end up with a poor prescription for high traffic.
No problem. Far better to have a few questioning readers than the zealots who would have you believe that film is the only art medium for photography, etc., etc.
Thank you for your good wishes, and the best to you.
Thomas
Thomas,
thanks for your reply. You do state clear opinions, and that’s what’s good about coming back to your blog on a regular basis. What first got me to your blog was your Ur-Leica Lumix approach (hey you actually convinced me to go for one), but I’m staying because of your fresh thoughts and images. If I were a brand zealot (never used Canon in my life etc etc) I would not be here.
I’m not a film zealot either, simply because time spent in the darkroom is time stolen from the real world (and wife, a bit like golfing). Have done a bit of B&W film + scanning, lately, but it’s so time consuming that the only point of it is to keep using loved equipment. Can’t sell it, sorry, not my Nikon FM bought in 1978 which introduced me to photography—still using it, something I doubt we’ll say in 2037 about equipment bought in 2007. I don’t know how you ever got around to sellling yours; but then again I am one of those that will never sell/donate/throw books he’s read.
Best again,
Giovanni
Your blog is a fantastic resource. Thank you very much for keeping this up and posting such valuable information!
Thomas,
You’re right about putting this one up there in your list. As Hopperesque as one can get. Magic moment. Or, to stay in the photo world and boringly going back to a reference I made earlier (see ‘Black & White is Dead’ comment) very Saul Leiter-esque. Take a look at that book….you’ll like it.
As for Rita, who knows. Better leave her as a ghostly dream in the window, I suppose.
Take care
Giovanni
Thanks, Thomas. I have one en route. Long overdue, I must say. Decided to blow the budget and keep the Leicas, if only to assuage my fixation with minimalist design and ergonomics.
Thomas,
I’m honored that you decided to trust me on this purchase and -more importantly- happy that you enjoyed it as I suspected you would.
All we need to do now is to find a way to post-process your digital shots to replicate the unique feel of vintage film (Kodachrome? the book does not say or I don’t recall)… I just love that slightly desaturated look.
Also love your Madison Avenue shot up here…
Take care,
Giovanni
Giovanni –
Thanks.
You can do the Kodachrome thing with Alien Skin, though in my experience Kodachrome is neither pastel nor fade prone.
I have to agree with you about your comparisons between LR and Aperture. I’ve been working with both programs, but the management tools in LR simply don’t cut it for me as a wedding photographer. I like the development tools in LR, but even in that area the workflow is too linear, unlike with Aperture.
Adobe does however score points with making the program more accessible to less power heavy computers. I can run LR on my old Macmini (though it runs slow), but it’s impossible to do so with Aperture, which runs on my Powerbook G4. I’m looking forward to upgrading to an iMac or MacPro sometimes this Summer.
Anyway, thanks for your posts.
What can we do, Thomas. Looks like there’s tons of people out there who buy these things no matter what, and for what they need, they are well served.
That manufacturers need to protect their SLRs, there is no doubt. Look at Sony killing the R1 (a think-outside the box jewel that I’m happy to have nabbed for $800 already out of production before it disappeared altogether), because they had to protect their new Alpha series just bought from Minolta…
Hopefully, the odd compact RAW camera will remain on the market, whether it is the Lumix LX2 or the mysterious Sigma. Surely we shall be forced to abandon the good old habit of sticking with one brand through several decades in favor of fishing for the rare birds still flying, whatever their color. Oh, the joys of capitalist creative destruction!
Giovanni
Well as far as “happy users and profits follow” you couldn’t be more right.
I’m not sure however that the Brownie would sell without an LCD screen. If you look at the way most people (maybe not you and I, but who are we?) use their P&S cameras, part of their fun is to snap each other and show around the results on the screen: immediate sharing and gratification. Not many would give that up. True, screens are useless for serious editing out of bad shots (unless REALLY bad), and screens should not lead through a maze of menus. But screens are there to stay, I suppose. They’re the polaroids of old. Well, almost.
Have a nice week!
Don’t hold back, Thomas. Tell us how you really feel about the M8. 😉
Great site. Just discovered it last week. Enjoy the writing and the photography.
Chris
Thomas
I am one of those that are struggling to let go of their M6 and have found nowhere special to go.
I almost love the LX1 but it’s not quite there (I hate the noise, the lack of viewfinder and the uncertain zoom-it should have presets at the 28-35-50-70-105 positions, who cares about anything in between!).
I’m not sure the Sigma will be, either. Besides, 28mm is great but the goold ol’50 is not something I am ready to give up—that’s the second body you are talking about.
I wish the M8 was not such a poor compromise. I’d be willing to pay the $5k IF I could use my lenses for what they were supposed to. And maybe even then, why fork $5k for something that will be obsolete in 2 years if it is not already? A Leica is supposed to be used for 30+ years indeed!
Maybe I’ll stick to M6, Tri-X and home processing plus scanning…
PS I am also happily using a Sony R1 as a quasi-Hasselblad (you know, waistlevel finder and all) but clearly it fails the ‘under a jacket’ test so it does not count…
How does this relate to the general dictum “Shoot to the right”?
e.g. here
Is it that Canon has already pushed too far to the right on the 5D and so we need to underexpose?
Thanks in advance!
Arun –
I don’t know and, frankly, I no longer read LL owing to their dishonest reporting on the Leica M8. When I want fiction I don’t go the the fact section. How can you ever trust this fellow ever again when he as much as admits to being in the pockets of the makers?
However, it’s probably a combination of the fact that the 5D’s sensor is 1/3 to 1/2 stop more sensitive than indicated (maybe the exposure determination discounts this?) and older sensor design. It’s interesting to note that the specs of the yet to be released Canon 1D Mark III provide for dynamic range extension with the push of a button – they illustrate it at work with a bride’s wedding dress. Dynamic range extension has to be the next step in sensor design (I hope) – meanwhile, I stick with underexposing on contrasty subjects.
We will see.
I’m sorry, I did not know that about LL. So, on to another source. On this Adobe page http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html there is a link to “Linear gamma”, by Bruce Fraser. Seems to be saying what you did – but I’m very new to all of this.
I hope having inadvertently reminded you of something annoying, I’ve provided some reasonable reading compensation 🙂
Indeed. Thanks for the link – an interesting read. Fraser is an excellent writer who makes technical mumbo-jumbo (almost) intelligible.
He does refer to the ‘real sensitivity’ of a sensor which may be the same thing I’m saying, but I’m an empiricist where he is an engineer.
Simply stated, I know it comes out better in high contrast situations when I underexpose one stop in the 5D then use Aperture to restore the shadows. Try it and see.
Another alternative with high contrast scenes is multiple image HDR but, let’s face it, it’s a real pain to do, and limited to stationary subjects.
Thomas,
is it perchance that the 20mm is really designed for APS-sized (Rebel) sensors? I bet corner sharpness at f/2.8 is not a big issue at that size. That’s the problem with multiple sensor sizes: a lens cannot be all things to everybody!
But at least, kudos to Canon for offering primes a-go-go. Nikon is lagging hard behind. Let alone not offering a full-size sensor… Comments on the new Mamiya 645?
Giovanni – the 20mm f/2.8 goes back in design, floating elements and all, to the old film, full frame Canon FD for the F1, which is some 40 years. It was state of the art back then, as Geoffrey Crawley of the British Journal of Photography reported, but has been surpassed since. To my knowledge, except for autofocus and more use of synthetics (no bad thing) the lens has been optically unchanged that long, meaning it’s made for the full frame sensor. It’s just not that great wide open and there’s probably too little demand for Canon to invest in upgrading it. No problem – f/5.6 + grainless ISO 800 on the 5D works fine. I just got back with some more pix from this optic and we will see. I need to make some big prints.
As for the Mamiya 645, some early thoughts on medium format digital appear here. I think the ‘cheap’ Hasselblad CFV back ($9k) with an inexpensive body + lens would work better for me than Mamiya’s traditionally second rate execution – but it’s impossible to tell as I have yet to use it. My Mamiya 6 had great lenses (albeit a very limited range) but was poorly made.
Great shots! I especially liked the title of the second 😉 Awesome!
I had a Nikon D70 with a Kit lens and never had a dust problem. But after having it a year added an older pump style Nikon lens to it and got dust bunnies right away.
I’ve got a 5D with a 17-40 and a 24-70 and for the two months I’ve had it I’m not yet seeing a dust problem. I’m probably going to steer away from the pump style zooms.
Hi,
on my 5D, I exclusively use manual (adapted) primes, so no zoom nor AF movements.
Never had a single dust problem, despite the continuous lens changing.
What a great capture- marvelous! the composition, the colors, the framing the mood – it all works.
I really like the photograph. And it leads me to a question I’ve been wanting to ask – what is the etiquette of photography – can a person, such as the subject of this photograph have any expectations of privacy? What if one caught a person in a moment of undignified pose, should one not publish such a photograph? Could a parent not want a random stranger snapshotting her children? And so on. If one is wandering around with one’s camera, searching for shots, what boundaries should be respected?
This is probably a culture-specific question, so what are the rules in America?
Bonjour,
I discovered your gem-blog googling reviews of primes for my 5d.
It’ll take some days to explore your treasures. Since you are interested in the French way of life
may I suggest a book from Pierre le Gall: Histoires d’en France: Alternatives Editions.
Thanks for sharing.
Roger Fournier
I was 0 in math
Beautiful shots. Thanks for posting them. I especially like the finale of the old man walking away from the young child. Reminds me of life.
Great to find your pages, I had fun reading them. It would be worth mentioning that the functions of ImageAlign Pro are now part of Photoshop CS3 (thank god!). CS3 is so great for things like B&W conversion, adj layer and distortion removal that it is the first update really worth getting since version 5.
You can also remove distortion with DxO software, which also corrects for Volume Anamorphosis. It is expensive, but well worth it for difficult images.
Thomas,
I bought this book following this post. It is absolutely marvelous. This is not the first time I have ordered a photography book following one of your reviews. Purchases I have never regretted. Thank you (and thanks to Giovanni).
By the way: I could not post any comments to your site by using Internet Explorer. The “Name” field is inaccessible. I can only post with Mozilla Firefox. This might be the reason for the small number of comments to your posts.
Best regards,
Ron
Oh, I just love your description of the irish wolfhound. They are so noble and dignified and yet so mischievous… one can’t but love them!
Antonio, owned by wolfhounds
I started using Lightroom (beta) before my move back to Mac, so had already become familiar with it and liked the ability to share my image database between PC and Mac while I made the transition.
CS3 universal binary on the Mac was, of course, a key factor in my switching platforms, as I’ve been a long-time user of Photoshop. The integration of Lightroom, Camera Raw and PS (running as fast as on my PC), plus the unalloyed joy of the Mac interface again, is a winning combination for me.
I’ve since tried Aperture, and Capture One and iView, and find them all absolutely fine, but none of them offer the integration advantages of the Adobe suite for the kind of work I do.
Also, I must say that I find the LR interface a joy to use, but I know some dislike it. Had I started off by using Aperture maybe I would feel differently, but I don’t think so.
Wow! I love the look and feel of his sites, and the photos are so clean, as you said.
Thanks for pointing this out, Thomas.
(a devoted rss reader :))
Hi,
good site 🙂 Wish you good luck!
I totally agree about Canon’s wonderful primes. People who haven’t tried them just don’t know.
Thanks Thomas for this review.
For now i’m most in the “shorter” side, but with my 300@f4 I think this lens could be great for landscapes, as you said, as well 🙂
Take care.
Don’t know if you’ve seen this – I thought it was interesting to see the amount of work that goes into assembling these things.
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/tech/l_plant/f_index.html
Thank you for posting the link to your show, which I had not seen. I now have a much better sense of your photography.
To my eye, the Mamiya images stand out. They seem more lifelike and appealing. Words like subtlety and dimensionality come to mind.
In general, based on the examples in this show, film appears to trump digital. Perhaps subject matter differences and online viewing make the comparison invalid.
Regards,
McD
Or alternatively:
Many pros are struggling because there are an awful lot of mediocre photographers in the business.
Wedding photography used to be a staple for the local photographer. Look at most people’s wedding albums and you’ll find something that looks exactly the same. The same stilted group shots. Champagne being poured. The happy couple in some trees. Boring boring boring. Uncle Bob took better shots with his pocket Casio. You may not want to rely on Uncle Bob, so you look to the pros for reliability and hard work. If that’s all you’re getting, they are very poor value.
Alternatively, you can look for a wedding photographer whose work makes you say “Wow”. Which is what we did. As we did our research, it was shocking – appalling – how many photographers expected us to hire them without even putting decent images on their web site. We ended up paying a little more for someone who was prepared to travel 4 hours in each direction.
This was the man who got me into (amateur) photography. I may not have known his 17-40L from a coke bottle at the time, but I am not stupid. I could see that his work was a cut above whatever else we were being offered. So can his other customers. He is fully booked for next summer. His wedding work enables him to travel in the winter, shooting real lives in the third world – his real passion.
My niece’s last school photo was the standard four light portrait against a splodgy grey background. It was indistinguishable from my own school photos from 25 years ago – except that in those days the shooter was bright enough not to use a blue-cast background for a school with blue uniforms. This won’t cut it any more. I say good riddance.
Unfortunately the overall quality will for a while mean that even the better pros have a hard time.
But it’s futile to complain about the difficulty of making money unless you have something to set you apart from the crowd. Quality will talk in the end. Look at Michaelangelo.
I love my 400mm f/5.6L lens although I discovered this lens by accident. I was searching for a Canon 100mm “L” zoom and found the 400mm f/5.6L on eBay at what I considered a very attractive price. I decided to try this lens and rationalized that my 70-200mm f/4L would cover the lower range of the 100-400mm zoom and that I would probably be using the 100-400mm at full extension most of the time. I did want a lens with IS but, then again the 100-400mm zoom IS is one of the older versions and not quite as good as the newer IS versions. I also supposed that despite the IS on the 100-400mm zoom, I would use that lens on a tripod or monopod most of the time anyway.
The 400mm f/5.6L lens is fixed focal length and doesn’t use push-pull zoom. I have nothing specifically against a zoom lens; in fact the majority of my lenses are zooms. However, I don’t like a lens that has a push-pull zoom. I owned a Canon FD zoom lens once that was a push-pull type and I hated it. If the Canon 100-400mm L IS zoom were not a push-pull type of lens, I would have considered it more seriously. However, the 400mm f/5.6L prime is more suited to my shooting style.
I do use the 400mm f/5.6 on a tripod or monopod all the time. It works extremely well with the rather inexpensive, and usually overlooked, Manfrotto gimbal mount (Manfrotto 3421 camera Support). I recently shot the Unlimited Hydroplane Thunderboat Races in San Diego’s Mission Bay using the 400mm f/5.6L on the 3421 mount atop a Giottos MT8180 tripod. The combination was superb. I was able to follow 150+ MPH hydroplanes with no problem and the exceptionally fast auto focus of the 400mm f/5.6L lens provided gnat sharp imagery that I consider superb.
Thomas,
I read this blog for a long time now and it is a real pleasure.
This reflection is no exeption, carry on.
Personnally I ran away “autoeverything” when the Nikon FA hit the shelves. At that time my chinese brother in law hand over to me his “fantastic camera” which was going to snap it all for him “because it had a computer inside”, but he needed my help to operate it. I look at the beast and was lost, it was a Canon, it seemed so complicated to snap a picture that I made sure I had mechanical only cameras until now still except for a compact and a P&S today.
As I won’t like a car changing gear for me, I know cameras snaping red apples only could be on the market soon, it is just a matter of decicion.
I find nothing wrong with this as far as the market offers a wider choice fitting everyone.
And I guess you can find someone who is so tired he is dreaming of a sleeping machine.
Like you I’m not a great one for manipulations, but that is a very pleasing effect.
I enjoyed your early Irving Penn article – never seen those images before, I must dig out my point source head for the enlarger again.
Also pleased that it led me to the article on Norman Parkinson. I’ve always had a great admiration for his work and will seek out that ‘Portraits’ book.
He is also to be thanked for producing one of the best sausages available! – Link.
Roy – thanks for the link to the Porkinson – truly a great English ‘banger’!
Having similar thoughts myself I followed your advice and have started migrating to Lightroom myself from Aperture 2.
I would like to add a piece of advice. If a stack contains RAW images and TIFF versions, make sure the RAW files are the stack picks and selected, otherwise even when exporting the Masters Aperture will export the TIFFs instead.
Absolutely agree about Brunel – the man and the photograph. Although I’m no engineer he has always been an icon to me. I visited the remains of his ‘atmospheric railway’ on the South coast not long ago. An amazing method of transport that was ‘environmentally sound’ (kind of…) and innovative. It only lasted a year, but as you say, he was a man not afraid to fail in the interests of pushing the boundaries of engineering and knowledge.
On the contrary, you should be able to toggle screen mode by hitting the F key; twice usually puts you into full screen mode and, as with the Tab, this also works in Photoshop.
Appreciate the tutorials link; thanks for pointing that out!
I understood that the Stephenson Standard was based on the then-standard coach width, which was designed so that the wheels went along the relatively smooth parts of the road. In the days before tarmacadam, only the wheel ruts mattered.
The gauge is very similar to that used on Roman chariots, which of course would have been the first wheeled users of British roads. That may be a coincidence, of course.
Well, I think you’re discounting some features, expected in Mk.II.
They being:
These, except of Digic-III I think are very useful additions to existing model. The 14-bit A/D DEFINITELY produces better images, period. Faster fps – it’s great to have, if we’re doing a bit of high-action photos. Frankly, I love to do auto bracketing and using a higher fps truly helps.
Thomas, the RAW files are packed (lossless packing like zip) and the file size is determined by the content of the file. File size is smaller if any of the condition(s) below is/are true:
I have never got more than 16MB files from Canon lenses when using ISO 100 with 5D but for Example Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 2.8/28 constantly produces files which size is over 19MB, and sometimes file size gets to 22MB. Also difference in large prints (e.g. 75cm x 50cm / 30″ x 20″) you really can see the difference between Carl Zeiss and Leica lenses compared to Canon lenses. Canon lenses are optimized to produce big contrast but they are really poor in micro contrast and small details. Of the lenses that you have only the Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L has decent micro contrast; you may end up with a file size close to 16MB if you take a photo in which everything is inside DOF, there is a lot of detail and a tripod is used.
Also it seems that the anti-alias filter has something to do with this: I switched to the Canon 1D Mark III and even though it has 2.5 fewer megapixels yet the file size is quite close to the 5D’s file size. Also due to live view and exact focusing I get more constant results with manual focusing and I no longer need to focus bracket to get excellent results.
That’s the Scheimpflug principle. It’s a cool effect but I feel it’s overdone here by being used for every single shot.
Click here.
Fair comment, but the lens to subject distance in these pictures suggests that the manipulation is being done in the processing stage rather than in the camera, as it would be unlikely that depth of field would be so constrained in pictures taken from hundreds of feet away.
Take a look at photo #10 of 11, for example. The subject is almost plane to the camera yet the top and bottom are blurred. Unless Laforet is using a very long lens on a camera with a tilting lens and/or back (I seem to recall reading he uses 35mm DSLRs which provide tilting lenses only at this time) I doubt you would ordinarily get this effect outside of Photoshop.
Alternatively, maybe he is making a print then rephotographing it with the print at an angle to the sensor?
By way of example, I have made a rough and ready re-photograph of this picture – the original is sharp everywhere – photographing it at an angle with the 50mm Canon lens at f/1.4 then further added Gaussian blur in Photoshop:
I’ve installed it side by side with my 1.3 version and I can confirm it didn’t screw up my catalog. I am slightly underwhelmed by the changes – I think the jump from 1.0 to 1.1 had as many!
The multiple monitor support would be very cool, if you had 2 monitors.
And so beautifully lit! That’s surely not just a candid shot
Have a look at this link – quite old this but interesting
It’s amazing how simple and elegant the USM motor is and how the FTM works.
You can see my review of DxO Optics Pro Elite (see Comment #8, above) here.
Thanks for the splendid review. I have a 70-200 f/4 IS and I use it for aesthetic photography. The sharpness is good. But when I use this lens, I always go to the 200 mm. So, especially for sharpness the prime 200mm is also on my wish-list. No IS is not a negative point for landscapes because you can use the mirror lock-up. So, I think I I will by it. John Willems.
Two screen demonstration with Lightroom 2.
Why did they want your film? And do they have that authority? What would have happend if you said no? I don’t think there is a law that supports that unless it’s buried in the partiot act somewhere?
This was taken in 1999 before the Patriot Act. Pigs are Pigs. A little power is a dangerous thing and these people come from the same socio-economic class as the criminals they seek to capture.
Far better to give a Pig useless stuff than to antagonize him and end up in the slammer. It’s just too costly to prove you are right.
Hi Thomas, I thought you would enjoy this man’s art. It has touched me like no others. Now I’m going to study long shutter speeds.
Best to you and yours.
Tom
I would love to take a different position on this Thomas but I can’t….. your really are right here, sad no?
I will watch this because I like your taste in technology, pictures, art and now we will see Movies? I will try to watch with an open mind but it will be very hard to.
Thanks
I don’t get it as well. I hope that some day soon, people will understand it’s not about the megapixels anymore, it’s about the dynamic range, about your ability to hold the camera steady while dragging the shutter, the understanding of exposure and how to correctly use lighting, natural or strobes. After 8 meg, it NO longer is about the megs.
I’ll tell you what Thomas, I use to own the HP 5500ps and used the UV ink set, I printed on Canvas (HP Canvas rolls) all the time and the result was amazing, so your bang on with this article.
Over the pond, some of the papers seem to have followed your advice. Most of their photos now seem to be sourced externally.
Although the Irish Times still carries the torch for quality front-page photojournalism. Well, it sticks on a 16mm lens and shoots in an arty way at one of the first forty lead stories. What more do you want?
Wow – that’s a fantastic tip; many thanks for bringing it to our attention!
Are you in the least bit tempted to upgrade?
Arun – I would like to see what the tests say about the 21mp sensor first. And as my 18″ x 24″ prints are as good as anything I have seen from any medium, it’s hard to make a compelling upgrade case. The other new features add little for this amateur user.
They have you now!
The film is impressive. And low light performance is a key feature for many people – anyone shooting indoors, in churches for weddings, at events.
The new 5d looks fantastic to me and I’m torn between this and a 2nd hand 5d…
I’ve been waiting to upgrade my 10D since the 5D first came out (but wasn’t prepared to till the sensor cleaning appeared on a full frame model) – I guess now I have no excuses left not to. Bring it on!
Who is going to buy this 40 grand camera + a lens?
Any number of pros doing commercial or fashion work, for whom the investment is a modest sum compared to the costs of just one day on the set with expensive models and hangers-on.
I photograph flowers. Helicon Focus is the greatest thing to happen to flower photography. I did (BF “before Helicon”) everything but get a hernia to get good depth of focus. Now I have it. Thirty bucks! I have wasted months of effort. This is a rave – exactly what I mean.
Glenn Stoutt
By the way, good article.
My favorite painter. Good article. Great site.
Glenn Stoutt
The ultimate dream camera as of October, 2008. I have the 5D. Not good enough to need the Mark II. We are fortunate to have people like you around to give free first-rate advice in a highly professional manner.
Your site is a trove, a cornucopia. Everything photographic that one needs to know.
Thanks,
Glenn Stoutt
Once again Thomas your 100 pct correct. They’ve even slowed down the shutter fps if I’m correct. But for me, I have a son and want to leave him some video for when he’s older so I want that 1080p. However, here’s the catch, they lost my order when they decided not to include 24fps in this version. So I’ll stay with my 720p dedicated video camera. 1080p without 24fps. What where they thinking???? It’s not about Megapixels anymore!!!!!!! It’s about Dynamic Range. But the Camera mfrs are playing the pixel game as the consumer and most pros just don’t get that.
Now I see it clear as day. WOW. Thank you. I’m going to take a view tomorrow of some of mine and see if I can notice the same things. (love Lightroom, wanna see my shots by 1.4, Bam! Done)
Thank you Thomas.
Geez, this is an amazing picture. The reflection is my fav area but the whole image is wonderful. Nice job Thomas.
We can only hope. But I have a feeling that this is going to be America’s proudest and best history period ever recorded.
I love where your posts are going. Always a good job and well written.
Note: This Comment belongs to the next post, as does my reply. It addresses local adjustments in Lightroom 2.
Can you increase or decrease exposure locally, such as decrease exposure in a sky but leave the foreground alone? In other words, can you do HDR from a single photo? Now that would be really interesting!
JM
Jack – the tutorial I watched specifically does this and uses the auto masking feature to assist you in ‘painting in’ the color/darkness of the area you want affected.
You have to hose your mouse around to get the effect but as long as you do not cross the boundary, the auto masking will detect the edge of the boundary and restrict changes to that boundary. It’s not a ‘one click’ thing but semi-automatic, and easy to do. LR2 also allows creation of three brushes – two to add and one to erase. These brushes have a user adjustable blur boundary so you can determine how hard edged the brush will be.
Please see the previous post for one comment on the localized adjustment feature. The Commentator posted it by mistake to this post.
Thomas, you can use R glass on the 5D via an adapter. No AF and stop-down metering, but for some users it’s worth it.
Geez Thomas. That is some neat stuff.
How about supplies for the printer? Will they continue to be available?
For instance, HP itself lists only 13″ x 19″ paper. Googling for “ARCH C” or “18 x 24” paper seems to bring up HP only; I haven’t yet found any other brand.
Is it a good assumption that the ink cartridges and printer heads will remain available for the life of the printer?
HP 18″ x 24″ paper is available from B&H – click here.
Atlex, from whom I have ordered with no problems, has a vast range of HP paper for the DesignJet series here and lots of original ink and printing heads elsewhere on their site.
Alternatively, do a Google search on “HP 18 x 24 paper designjet” and you will get hundreds of hits!
As for parts and ink, you can still get them for HP printers over ten years old and HP made and sold a great number of these (not just 18″ and 24″ but also the 13″ wide model which shares ink and head designs with its larger stablemates), many to professionals, so I doubt they are about to jettison a key constituency.
I wonder why the HP website itself does not list the 18×24 paper. The HP store still has the 90, 90r and 90gp.
Anyway, I suppose the DesignJet 90 will work with 13×19 paper just as well, which seems to be a more universally available size; and existing 18×24 supplies will last a while. I’m that close to pulling the trigger – the printer is very attractively priced, and you’ve given it such testimonials! I feel I’m wasting my 5D (and not learning as much as I should) by not being able to print large.
Since the 5D aspect ratio is 3:2 and 18×24 is 4:3, do you crop to print 18×24 or do you really print 16×24 on 18×24 paper?
HP’s site is famously a mess. Beats me.
Cllick here and you can get profiles for the following non-HP branded papers for the DJ 30/90/130 series from HP itself:
ICC Profile – Arches Infinity Texture 230
ICC Profile – Arches Infinity Smooth 230
ICC Profile – Digital Arts Supplies DAS Geo Canvas
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle Photo Rag 188
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Duo 196
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle William Turner Textured 190
ICC Profile – Hahnemuhle William Turner Textured 310
ICC Profile – Lysonic Photo Gloss / Hahnemuhle Photo Gloss 265
ICC Profile – Lysonic Photo Matte / Hahnemuhle Photo Matte 170
ICC Profile – Ilford Smooth Gloss Paper
ICC Profile – Ilford Smooth Heavyweigth Matte
ICC Profile – Ilford Smooth Pearl Paper
ICC Profile – New HP DJ30/90/130 Photo Gloss P ICC profile
ICC Profile – New HP DJ30/90/130 Photo Satin P ICC profile
When you realize that HP released these in July 2008 it certainly doesn’t feel like they are giving up on that printer series.
I ordinarily crop the original to fit the 18″ x 24″ frame. However, if you get a roll sheet feeder and roll paper (HP or other) you can print 18″ wide (DJ90) and any length you want so, as a minimum, you will be able to print 18″ x 27″ which will use every part of an uncropped 5D frame.
As for the claimed (Wilhelm Research) better life for the latest pigment printer inks compared to the Vivera dye inks in the DJ series- 110 vs 83 years – who cares? What you will care about is the very frugal way in which the printer uses ink and the ease of replacement of heads which are completely separate assemblies from the ink cartridges. And forget all those claims that 8 or 12 cartridges are better. My 4 ink Epson 1270 made prints every bit as fine as the six ink HP DJ90 – the problem with the Epson being nozzle clogging (which the HP avoids by keeping the nozzles warm even when switched off, so make sure you keep the printer plugged in at all times) and,of course, fading inks. Fade free technology was not around when the 1270 was made.
I have been banging away at my DJ 90 since March 2006 and except for one printer head replacement have had no issues – no clogging, no failures, just consistently great prints with inky blacks.
Your 5D comes to life at 13″ x 19″; at 18″ x 24″ or 24″ x 30″ it begins to sing. I use 13″ x 19″ – which it prints fast while using little ink – for proofing, leaving these out for a few says while I deliberate final adjustments for the 18″ x 24″ for matting.
To get your colors right, let the print dry a day and all will be stable. That’s a function of the HP’s inks – these are wet, slow drying dyes which need to be absorbed by the paper, unlike pigments which dry in a surface layer.
After some 100 18″ x 24″ and maybe 200 13″ x 19″ prints over a thirty month period, I have never had a clogged head or a paper jam (once I learned how to properly insert the paper tray! – insert from the left then make sure the right side is fully home), and have had to replace just one printer head. My piece on that will guide you through HP’s pretty awful diagnostics to make sure you change the right head when it eventually fails from use.
Right, so 50mb an image is mad, but that 22mb for the 5D MKII is also quite crazy. that means on a 4Gb card, where my old 350D would take nearly 600 RAW images, i am now limited to just 190 (ish). i have just ordered my 5D MKII…. think i need even more memory cards now too…
Here is a link to get an idea of what this little camera is able to produce.
Of course I would have appreciated different pictures parameters, wide apertures, high ISO etc. …. but still it is impressive just with this “into the picture” effect it shows.
An interesting note is the forthcoming possibility of using Leica M lenses on it via an adapter. I think this will change the way many look at this camera, could it be a small M8 for 1/5th of the price ?
Michel – thanks for the link.
The problem with the Leica adapters will be that a 50mm lens will be effectively 100mm on the G1, because of the small sensor. Now that’s not necessarily bad but it raises two issues.
But the imminent availability of the adapter is, I agree, very exciting news, because you know we won’t be seeing anything like the G1’s exciting design from Leica.
I agree with your comments, except that I want a small zoom lens and the flipping LCD the way the G1 does. Something in between the LX3 and the G1. All “scenes” programs can go to the trap, as the others rubbish like wifi and face detection.
Why the LCD you would ask? Because live view an the LCD quality is getting so good it’s open an all new aspect of photography which is very interesting.
I think Canon understood the problem and one of their rep at Photokina did mention we should expect something from them in 2009. They are smart enough to understand where they can make money and if they step in (following Olympus) with APS sensor, Nikon, Sony and all of them will follow too.
Wait until 2010 for your wish to be fulfilled.
I like that a lot, nicely exposed/composed photo too.
Thank you, Thomas, for bringing back to the forefront of my mind a film that I first fell in love with over 25 years ago.
So many films have been viewed since, but this one will always be remembered as perhaps the first ‘foreign’ film that captured my imagination totally.
I’ve just downloaded an excellent copy to watch after such a long gap. I need reminding of the colours, the lighting, the mise en scène – the plot will always be remembered but the visual treat I have in store this weekend is one I look forward to immensely.
18″ x 24″ is a good size, one that I’ve not encountered before.
I’ve never come across the designation ‘Super A4’ either, and it seems wildly inaccurate, A4 being 8.25″ x 11.75″.
I worked for a U.S. company, which meant also keeping stocks of US quarto, which of course is the rather nicely balanced 8.5″ x 11″, as opposed to UK quarto which was 8″ x 10″!
17″ x 22″ is available here in the UK, close to A2 size, which is 16 1/2″ x 23 3/8″. Again, falling short of 18″ x 24″.
My favourite paper size in the days of regularly making prints in the wet darkroom was 9.5″ x 12″, so I can see the attraction of your chosen size.
There’s a comprehensive overview of this minefield of US/UK/European paper sizes at http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~mgk25/iso-paper.html – but maybe there are better things to do in life…
Had trouble refinding your review after seeing it years ago. Thank you for this: Having tried both lenses (the newer 14mk2 and 15mm) I can attest that your review is spot on.
Check out the brief hands-on here. They address initial impressions of shutter lag and af speed.
Good to see a mention of the late great Edwin Smith on your site Thomas, I always knew you had impeccable taste! I get a mention in this book, but they referred to me as ‘Ray’…
Readers interested in learning more about the man may be interested in the section of my site devoted to him.
Roy – interesting coincidence. I am a regular reader of your fine blog but somehow missed your piece on him. Thanks for the reference. Your collection of his work is very fine.
Note: Roy’s writings on Edwin Smith may be found here.
Was the sound for the panorama recorded at the place and time of the photograph? It, the sound, seems too dense and close for the number of people eating and to me it looks like the people are eating off of paper plates but there are several silverware on plates clangs. Just curious, I guess it’s more of a question than a comment. I’ve really enjoyed your writings, it’s good to have someone with strong opinions that isn’t hesitant to state them. Thanks.
Terry – the sound track was something I found on the web – I just wanted a busy sounding dining atmosphere and did not sweat the details.
Good catch!
> Switch off all that ‘face detection’ garbage –
> I know what I’m pointing the camera at
But does the autofocus matrix “know” what you are pointing at. Or is the word “GLASS” really the most important thing in your florist grab shot. I am suggesting that “Face detection” may be Just Enough Automation when relying on autofocus in the same way many of us prefer Aperture Priority as Just Enough Automation.
It is my impression that cameras have become like fly-by-wire jet liners. The pilot no longer flies them – but only makes enough suggestions to the computer so that it can do a better job.
In a similar vein, sometimes I think I would like a programmed Aperture Priority – in which ISO is adjusted instead of the shutter at the slower shutter speeds.
Interesting you should mention that, Andy. I am no fan of these systems and, coincidentally, before reading your comment had changed the camera to central rectangle focusing with first pressure on the shutter button locking in focus. Your comment is spot on for this old fart who grew up setting just three things – shutter speed, aperture and focus. I think the new Pentax K7 has what you mention – the AE variant.
I don’t think the 23-area autofocus matrix knows what you point at. In my experience, it just focuses at random stuff, and tells you “hey, these highlighted areas came out in focus.” I just use the 1-area focus mode, center the focus area, and focus hold. On tripod shots, however, I find that all I use is manual focus.
Thomas: you may want to give the Auto ISO a try. I just set the Auto ISO limit to 800 and use P mode, exposure compensation and program shift. Aperture priority should work as well, of course.
One thing that I didn’t notice you mentioning: live histogram in viewfinder. It sounds neat, but I find it’s a bit obstrusive (it could use being semi-transparent) and not as useful as it sounds (I’m pretty impressed with the metering on this camera).
Thomas,
For highlight management, I suggest you consider a -1/3 to -2/3 exposure adjustment for quick shooting. In any case, a dynamic range test, using a textured white paper towel or equivalent, will give you what you need to make your own determination.
As you are discovering, the G1 is a breath of fresh air. Fortunately, image quality does not disappoint.
McD
Do you still have face-finder deactivated? Just curious what it might have done with all the drawings of faces in your pics – especially the Lion of Ghana (colors are upside down from normal Rasta livery)
Andy – It’s deactivated, but would it make any difference with a two dimensional subject?
I wasn’t thinking of it in a focusing assistance way, but just a “Gee Whiz” way. I am still amazed that this kind of thing works at all, and I am just interested in the boundary line between “face” and “not face” (without spending my own money:)
Yes. I saw this article and I have been enjoying your series of G1 reviews and reports. I am looking to move up to a more capable camera from my Nikon P5100. Both your postings and Joe Wigwall’s (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joewig/) recent move to the G1 have made the G1 to be my candidate new camera. Thanks for the good postings on the G1
I recall an illustrated article in Modern or Popular Photography, 20-or-so years ago that had the then newly-found in Paris proof sheets that clearly showed sequential photos of many members of the platoon, each taking their turn at ‘dying’ at the exact same spot on the slope of the hill.
After this initial article, I do not recall seeing any further mention of this find in any photo magazines, and have always wondered if Cornell Capa or some other interested parties had put a lid on the truth, as in ‘Liberty Valance’ “When the legend becomes fact, print the legend.”
One spreads the cement, the other carries the bucket. Don’t mix the two up otherwise unions will jump on you !
You should see the number of EP-1 on used-equipment sale just after the first month of release here in Singapore
Hallo Thomas,
I have just bought Panasonic’s GH1. Due to the unhelpful manual I looked around and discovered your blog. It is enjoying and very helpful to learn about photography and the G1. Many thanks.
Best regards,
Helmut (from Germany)
Thomas, I enjoy visiting your blog very much, your essays are thoughtful, interesting and reflect your many interests. Always good reading. I agree, Edwards’s panorama is the best! Could you please double check the location of Racetrack Playa, I believe it’s in California. Best regards, Paul
P.S. My web site – http://www.paulbockphoto.com – is under construction, not yet on line.
Thank you, Paul, I stand corrected. Race Track is, in fact, in California. I so associate Dykinga with Arizona, my brain simply defaulted to that lovely state.
Thomas,
I am fighting against highlight clipping, that means I wanted to use the histogram to avoid to much highlights-pixel. But I learned when underexposing that the yellow histogram is misleading in respect to highlights, as I posted here.
There I learned the trick for a correct histogram before taking a photo: Pressing the Preview and Display button.
As you show for high contrast it is easier to reduce expose by -2/3 and use the raw image.
Kind regards,
Helmut
I am a retired meteorologist (64 years old) and IT-developer for satellite image processing some years ago. So I like histograms and was rather disappointed that the yellow histogram is not correct.
Interesting comment, Helmut and your commentary on DPReview repays careful study.
For what it’s worth, I have switched off histogram display in the EVF, but for a different reason. It simply adds to the clutter and distraction and takes away from the picture making experience, at least for me. However, Panasonic hopefully can fix the errors through a firmware update for users who need the histogram.
My default of 2/3rd stop underexposure + RAW file format has yet to let me down. On overcast days when the contrast range is smaller, I reduce the underexposure setting to -1/3 or 0.
Hi Paul … yes, you’re right, the Racetrack is indeed in Death Valley in California. It’s one of the most amazing, remote and spiritual locations i’ve ever been to. It takes a two hour drive along a rough dirt track in a four wheel drive vehicle to get there but the experience is well worth the effort at either sunrise or sunset.
You can check out more of my 360 virtual tours here. And thanks for the kind words about my work … Rod Edwards (UK)
I do like my big ugly PC server boxes with masses of space inside hidden under the desk.
If only Apple would sell their OS for use on a PC.
Oh yes, kick off the flash ( who needs a lousy built in flash ? ) to get the space for the EVF…. just well placed on the left side like the Leicas M
Hi. I’d like to d/l the late-2006 service manual, but the link no longer works – do you know where I can obtain a copy?
Thanks for pointing that out, Charlie – you are referring to the 20″ model.
I have updated the link to a new location and it should work.
Very useful and informative series Thomas. Having one of these 2006 24″ iMacs that has recently started to have periodic spinning beach balls and occasional horizontal graphics cracks, I feel I’m on the edge of a similar precipice. I’ve always tended to run mine 24/7, but have started turning it off at night now. Have been using Fan Control since you recommended it previously.
I don’t know how easy it will be to source Apple parts in the UK, but I’ll start investigating. No doubt they’ll carry the usual UK price premium, as all Macs seem to over here.
I’ve just replaced my Macbook Pro 17 (2007 Santa Rosa model) with the new unibody 17″(matt). Hellish price, but I felt I was living on borrowed time with the old one. No sign of the well-documented NVIDIA failure on my old model (http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2377), but it was only a matter of time. The fans were just too noisy after the last Apple firmware ‘patch’ that attempted to reduce the risk of GPU failure by ramping up the fans to max, even when the machine was doing simple tasks. The unibody seems fine; quiet and cool – so far. Not happy about the built-in battery though.
I agree with your views on Apple and Jobs in every case, but still we love our Macs…
Now where did I put those Forstner bits…
Thanks for your good work, I hope to read diagnostic comments soon. Greetings
Will do the same next month except I will use ATI Radeon 4950 and some additional cooling systems.
And then I will also put my broken iMac in the trash.
I would stick with nVidia for the simple reason that Apple has ceased using ATI GPUs and thus you can expect no ATI drivers or support for the newest cards under Snow Leopard which, I have read, is also easily hacked.
Great advice. Let me be the devil’s advocate. Sometimes the uv protector becomes a problem. Harsh direct light tends to make little ufo’s around a light source. How to cure it… take the 5 seconds to remove the filter.
Nice philosophy. Good site.
I agree a Hackintosh is suitable revenge for the white doorstop. I met someone in France the other day running OS X on an MSI sub-notebook.
Keep us posted on how the Hackintosh progresses.
Thanks Thomas for calling Apple out on this, the other item I usually share with people wondering about these insurance policies is are you able to financially easily replace the item, it makes sense to insure items like a car or a house but consumer electronics? I would also add to your statistics the fact that the higher cost warranties are on products that are designed to be carried around and are portable… that does increase the likelyhood of failure by a large degree at least in my experience. And yes I did once leave my phone on the roof of my car and drive away, it was not an iPhone luckily so survived the drop to the pavement.
I meant ATI 4850. AFAIK ATI Radeons are nicely supported in Snow Leo
http://netkas.org/?p=128
My hackintosh will be revenge for 3 Macs bricked: iMac blue, iBook G3/800 (repaired by Apple… after 9 months died) and iMac 20 late 2006 (almost fried).
regards
Interesting development – I’ve been wanting to run OSX on a PC for a while – is there a 64 bit version?
I’d pretty much decided to keep Windows XP for work, and dualboot 64 bit Windows 7 for heavy photographic use. This might be a good alternative.
Do you know if you can dual-boot this with a Windows OS. (I run very expensive specialist pathology software which is still not certified for Windows Vista – XP only)
Hugh – you would install OS X and Windows on separate volumes on your HDD (or on separate HDDs if you prefer, though that would be wasteful IMO) and elect the boot source in the BIOS page at start up. Just Google ‘dual boot OSX Windows”.
The 64-bit version of OS X, “Snow Leopard”, will be release imminently (by the end of Q3/09) as a $29 upgrade for Leopard owners or as a standalone box for probably $120 or so. I understand it has already been hacked to run on PCs. Most of the writers on the topic have been victims of US schooling and seem unable to write a grammatically sound sentence, so some interpretation is required.
Macs are fashion items – you are supposed to update them as soon as the warranty has expired.
I think you are probably wasting more time fixing crap Mac hardware than I spend fixing crap Windows software.
I always stay about 5 years behind on Windows releases – only moved from Win 2000 to Win XP three years ago – by then most of the bugs have been fixed.
I’m going to be watching your Hackintosh adventures with interest.
DPreview has a preliminary evaluation of the GF1 EVF
I made the exact same reflexion on this new GF1. I have got to get rid off some film camera then get the GH1.
Hello Thomas
What a shame for the poor Alfa. You did not tell us what happened in the next frame.
Happy hacking of your Macs.
Giovanni
Written on a 2005 Powerbook G4 and OS10.4.11 — crawling slower and slower after all these years
Giovanni – the bridge disappeared in a Reality Distortion Field.
Humm ! I discovered this thing, seems quite
gregariousfragile (ed.) but might be just efficient enough :http://www.clearviewer.com/hotshoe.html
You know you want to. Just get the HP LP3065 for the Mini and be done with it.
If you stay with the smaller monitor maybe try the HP Integrated Work Center
http://h20331.www2.hp.com/Hpsub/cache/545374-0-0-225-121.html
I am sure you could jury rig a bracket for the Mini – voila – a DIY iMac!
Great article. But I have one question: how do you manage to work with the EVF under harsh and very contrast light? I’m having some trouble with the G1’s EVF…
Hi, I was just wondering specifically what about the G1 besides the fast autofocus and good kit lens makes it the ideal street snapper? A lot of other cameras seem to have the same capabilities. The EVF seems like it would help in high light situations from an overwashed LCD but I would think the swivel LCD offers more opportunities for unique holding angles.
Carlos – you can turn down contrast and brightness using the camera’s software.
Jae – LCDs are useless for my intended purpose. The G1 has a 100% full size v/f, not the tunnel vision offered by the alternatives. The actual magnification ratio is 0.72x, identical to that of the Leica M2 and I am nothing if not used to that. And the camera’s compactness and quietness are the closest thing to my mainstay of film days – the Leica M. Finally, it’s the first VF where I can actually see on screen data in bright light – for me that mean the +/- exposure adjustment in particular. My standard for comparison as regards viewfinders is my 5D and, simply stated, there is no comparison. The G1’s v/f is in a different league. Add the fact that it’s the first SLR with proper DOF preview (the screen does not darken, so you actually see the DOF) and that’s all she wrote!
Fair enough, I’ve read that the EVF can actually be laggy but have not tried it myself. How do you feel about the LX3? I’m possibly thinking about returning it for a G1 but I really like the portability of just slipping it in my jacket on the way out the door.
I have not used the LX-3. I use the LX-1. By comparison for my purposes it’s slow, hard to handle, constantly wants to retract the lens (or burn up the battery) and needs a glued on v/f to make sense. Depends very much on your goal – my sole use for the G1 is street candids. Nothing else. Many of those I have published here would not have been possible with the LX-1. It’s simply too slow. And a 13″x19″ print from the LX-1’s sensor really is at the limit – even at ISO 80 noise intrudes. I don’t like noise.
I use the 5D for everything else – very large prints, Helicon Focus, QTVRs, HDRs – click the appropriate section in the right hand column for more. The 5D is to the G1 what the Rollei/Hasselblad was to the Leica in film days, if you get my drift. The LX-1 I keep in the glove compartment ….
I don’t do street photography, but ran into the same issues for my needs with an LX-2 as a sidekick to my DSLR system. I went for an Olympus E-P1 as a new compact camera alternative an found it frustrating to deal with. The AF is slow, but even when I don’t need speed or I’m working methodically with manual focusing lenses, I had a hateful time working with only an LCD viewfinder. I finally got [over] (ed.) my aversion to the G1’s styling and the small increase in size and just got one. It’s only a little larger than the E-P1, but it’s a much more capable camera for my needs. The EVF lag is a small negative compared to having to shoot chimp-style with an LCD under adverse lighting. The AF is much faster, and the camera seems to have less lag as well. The G1 provides more direct controls over frequently used settings.
I love it really ! Nowdays you find these “LD” everywhere on forums, especially on forums dedicated to a particular brand, such as Leica of course, where you get a permanent mass and choral singing as soon as a CEO or anybody in the church has a blinking eye.
Just wish someone like Y san will really take up the digital rf challenge and produce an affordable version of the M9, as he and Zeiss have done with film rangefinders. Speaking of Nikon and dslr, it’s indeed sad that the real benefits of digital shooting are only extended to the user at the high end. Ironically I could afford a D700 with its full frame viewing and really don’t give a damn about the mirror. But it’s far too heavy. And what I can’t do with my comfortably light but lowly D80 is use my old Nikor lenses, which I like to focus manually and much prefer over the auto focus lenses Nikon wishes me to sell me.
Thanks for a good article.
Jack
Thomas,
in response to your great article:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1041&message=32996038
Kind regards,
Helmut
Frankly, this is all a bit mystifying to me. The G1 is a wonderful tool, but in terms of size, bulkiness and weight it belongs to the other small dslr’s. Not much difference there between m4/3 and 4/3; the lenses are a bit smaller, but the camera is still in a completely different category from the leica x-1 or the olympus ep-1 with the pancake lens and the like, which you can carry with you anytime anywhere, a bit heavier and bigger than a point and shoot camera but still pocketable. So I guess there are still many of us out there still waiting for an affordable leica like the X-1 but with an integrated viewfinder, or a camera of the canon G 10 with a somewhat larger sensor and above all an integrated viewfinder that is not ridiculously small and inaccurate.
Peter Halter
It seems your 5D stays on the shelf more often than not since you have this G1 !
Ha! For those subjects where you need the utmost in detail and minimum grain, the 5D rules, but for this sort of street action, the G1 is a sweetheart! And I have always been a street snapper at heart, first and foremost.
The Leica M-series, being a rangefinder non-SLR, did not have zoom lenses, but some splendid ones like the Summilux, Summicron, Elmar and Elmarit, ranging from 35, 50 90 to 135 mm, besides the 21 mm Super-Angulon. They were all compact and eminently carryable, and we Leica buffs did not miss the SLRs with their bulky zooms. The Visoflex even allowed Macro with the 65 mm Macro-Elmarit by converting the M into an SLR of sorts.
The compact Lumix 40 mm (equiv.) with f/1.7 is a lens in the same tradition, but by now, even long-time users of the Leica M have become addicts of the versatile zoom lenses. It is not so much the carrying of several lenses, but the hassle of changing quickly enough when required that has made us converts. And it must be admitted that when zooms can deliver quality, there will be no room for the fixed-focal-length lenses in a photographer’s kit bag.
That looks like a good buy – it’s around £200 in the UK. Whilst I’m very happy with my HP2475W (costing twice as much!) I have found that colour calibration is an issue. Out of the box the colour settings are way off and the screen is far too bright. I’m still not convinced I have good calibration (I use an Eye One). The reds seem too intense and the colour difference between the HP and the iMac screen is quite marked. I’d be interested to hear how the Dell performed out of the box and how the colour matches up with the Apple screen, from your screen shots it looks very close.
Roy – I work in a very bright room, preferring to do my processing in the early afternoon, sitting with a window behind me. Thus, I tend to have the brightness and contrast turned up pretty high – 80+ out of 100 – or the screen washes out. In my setting the calibration out of the box was pretty close to my (Monaco Optix XR profiled) iMac 24″. I did a simple match-by-eye of a photo with lots of flesh tones and got dead close by using the RBG color setting and varying the R, G and B sliders, plus tweaks of the contrast and brightness.
In the pictures you can just make out that the iMac is a tad pinker – the Dell is more accurately profiled, in my opinion, but I have yet to do this with a colorimeter. Then again, this sort of direct, side by side comparison, is extremely critical and revealing of differences, so I doubt a colorimeter will do much better as I already know how my screen images from the iMac translate to prints on the HP DJ90 – slightly too pink!
I don’t know how it would be in the darkened room preferred by many photographers, but in my environment it works well.
The 2209 does not have 1:1 pixel matching, meaning video will not necessarily play in the right aspect ratio, so if watching movies on your computer is a requirement this would not be a good choice.
By the way, I did not notice any temperature increase in my graphics chip or related heat sink when using the dual monitor setup – my iMac started life with the nVidia 7300 GPU but, as set forth here earlier, I upgraded that to the nVidia 7600 when the original fried. However, I do use two very large external fans to blow cool air into the iMac though the holes I drilled in the back, so I’m uncertain if this is an objective statement.
It was my grandfather’s car some 50 years ago, he had the new model every five years or so, I kept the last one during my U studies and long after, I probably made more kilometers with this car than with any other. It was charming, reliable, cheap all the way, much better than a bunch of today’s pretended 4×4 off road, never skipped on ice, but the lights were torch pocket and the windscreen wipers decorative. Oh ! like the GF1 camera…. it was slooooow 🙂 , be patient, admire the country side and avoid mountains.
If you are going this far, you ought to have FU Steve look into quiet cooling solutions.
One good site is http://www.quietpc.com (no financial interest) – I’ve just built a quad-core setup using a passive cooled nVidia 9800 video card and a fanless CPU cooler (Scythe Ninja) which is running about 25 Centigrade lower than my previous twin core PC with the stock Intel cooler. Three 120mm fans and a 140mm fan turning over very slowly and very quietly in an Antec 300 case. I don’t want to hear a computer unless it’s working very hard.
I have got some great street photos from a Canon G9 & Lumix LX3 and have got great A3 prints from both cameras, maybe if the X1 Leica got a little viewfinder without having to switch on the LCD every time I want to take a pic and the X1 was half the price I might have bought one.
Those are replicas of the famous eggheads which were designed for the UC Davis campus: http://daviswiki.org/The_Eggheads
Great!!
I dont own this dell tft, but I read when you choose 4:3 ratio with your video card, the dell will have 1:1 pixel matching in smaller resolutions and show black bars.
Jonny – I read that too but in a Mac you do not ‘choose’ aspect ratios. It’s automatic. So the only time you see black bars on the screen is when you play 4:3 movies (bars at the side) or 2.55:1 ultra-widescreen movies (bars top and base) which is as it should be to avoid edits or distortion to the original.
Most movies, of course, are 16:9 meaning they fit the Dell’s screen fully with no bars anywhere. Anyway, for Mac users it’s a non-issue. I cannot speak for Windows as I don’t own it. As for using lower resolutions, why would anyone want to do that?
Be sure to scroll down to see Al Gore’s multi screen setup. (several years old, now)
http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/archives/000928.html
Panasonic makes a number of great cameras (I have a G1 myself, and an LX3), and the lousy manual is a universal feature of the company. Your description of their manuals nails it.
Yikes, suffering cultural dislocation syndrome looking at this!
A reference to a famous French photo; cars that could be in the UK; a red, open top Routemaster omnibus; a faux Nelson’s Column…and a palm tree!
I need to lie down…
This is fantastic — with great commentary to go along with it too! I have really been enjoying reading through all of your posts on your site. From another “Blumix” G1 user…
I find I’m using Time Machine more often these days, especially when working with clients’ material. I’ve had occasion to retrieve past versions of several job files, which have usually been progressively overwritten over time, because clients have requested a roll-back to material in a previous version. This is particularly true of web sites, of which I keep one copy on my Mac, one on a bootable backup, and also on an external dual 1TB(RAID) Time Machine backup. I’m now finding that the oldest backup stored (February 2009) is too recent in some cases, so either a bigger drive or a different TM backup routine is called for.
Which I why I’m delighted to discover those two useful little apps listed here – never thought to look to see if anything like that was available!
I also like the look of that Aluratek drive dock, but sadly that’s another item that hasn’t reached the UK shores yet. There are Aluratek products available here, but not that one. There are alternatives though, so I think I might give one a try (same price in pounds as dollars, as usual!)
A very entertaining post, thanks!
I really like this one a lot.
A great read Thomas, entertaining and amusing.
I had completely forgotten about the ‘Prinz’ brand at Dixons, but then I guess there was absolutely nothing memorable about it whatsoever!
…and I always wondered where those tubes in Harrods ended up.
“Manual focusing brings up the magnified EVF image and is very accurate – surely this is the most perfect manual focusing system yet?”
I am not sure if you have have tried this, but in my mind the manual focus issue gets even better for both of these lenses. On screen three of the custom menu, if you toggle “AF+MF” to “Yes”, than when you half depress the shutter button you get the autofocus. Keeping it half depressed, when you touch the manual focus ring, the enlarged field of view comes up on the EVF and you can tweak the focus (if need be). Its a great feature once you get used to it. It helps in finding the good initial focus, especially as the lenses dont have distance markings on the MF ring. My two cents, from a rank amateur who is liking his Blumix…
Great tip, thanks. An incredibly useful technique when focusing through a window if the AF sensor insists on focusing on the glass instead of the object behind it. Yet another strike against the truly awful instruction manual which Panny ships with the camera.
Reading through this, it neatly summed up my own feelings when considering work I’ve produced recently. ‘Recently’ here relates to my 2009 Lightroom catalogue, which is considerably smaller than previous years…
The other day, I started to write a response to a recent TOP article, (The Tenset), about why I maintain three different websites and whether I could present my ‘Top Ten’ images on a single front page of any of those sites. The article never got finished, because every time I looked at my photographs from recent years I was swamped by the same feelings of doubt that you describe.
However, just one successful picture per year is an acceptable hit rate in my view, and ‘Minuet in Green’ would seem to a very worthwhile candidate for 2009.
These feelings are certainly not confined to those of Slavic extraction; more likely related to the fact that I too got very close to the end of my sixth decade a couple of months ago.
Cheer up, Thomas, you are good.
You just published a new site with your dailies (I can’t get enough of them); this site is full of insight and good humor: what else do you need? You do this to please and express yourself. The Green Park, London image could be a frame from Blow Up (I love it), and you get depressed? Those folks in the image look depressed, but I think that comes with the Territory.
Yes, we all get depressed sometimes for various reasons, but your images don’t reflect that. I enjoy Hopper myself and I can tell which of your images resonates with him before reading the subtitle.
I’m a photographer myself, with a structural engineering background; in 2008 I won an award at a local art show (I live in SoCal), and had a solo exhibit in Eastern Europe this September, had shown 100 images. My website is close to go live but not there yet. I do mostly landscape, travel and people photography.
You have a lot to show for your efforts, keep up the good work:)
Best regards,
Paul
Thomas,
These days I had a discussion with friends why Sony Cybershot DSC-H50 Super-zoom camera (CCD with electronic shutter, up to 1/4000 sec) had no flash sync limit like Canon, Nikon or my Panasonic GH1 (1/160 sec). I learned a lot. Your images are a very nice demonstration of slit shutter consequences.
Happy new year
Helmut
What a relief to come across your field test of the Panasonic G1, which I have owned since June 2009! I bought it as a temporary replacement for my Nikon D80 while I was recovering from hand surgery. It felt great ergonomically and the weight was perfect. However, I kept on depressing that front wheel by accident and ending up with negative exposure comp in places I didn’t want it. Even now that my hand is fully recovered, it still happens. I have to check the exposure comp before every single photo. I, too, have found that the highlights tend to blow out, so it’s good to set EC on the low side. As for the manual, it’s the worst I’ve ever owned. I’m a great big fan of camera manuals and even read them in bed. I’ve owned Canon, Konica Minolta, and Nikon cameras and found their manuals always useful. If only there was a good book (such as the ones David Busch writes) on the G1.
I’ve just ordered the FL220 Flash. Do you know of a diffuser (like the ones Gary Fong produces) which would fit it? I will be using it on my LX3 as well as the G1. If necessary, I’ll make one!
I can live with the prism hump if it is housing an EVF.
Despite my writing about the brilliance of Parkinson on many occasions, particularly in relation to the brand of excellent sausages that bears his name in the UK(!), I do not actually own any of his books. ‘Portraits in Fashion’ has been on my Wish List for years and no one has ever bought it for me.
So your post prompted me to do something about this, and I found a copy of ‘Sisters’ in the UK for £8 – bargain. ‘Portraits’ is next on the list, with copies slightly more expensive, but worth it nevertheless.
Roy Hammans is a truly inspirational photographer, showing that technique and quality from the past can be retained and exquisitely merged with the technology of today.
Thanks for this. I’d been looking for something similar to hold my G1 and miscellaneous other stuff (two large compartments were essential), but hesitated to shell out over $50 for a small messenger bag or the like. My local military surplus shop didn’t have any used ones, but I bought a new one just like this for $15 (although black was all they had). It’s exactly what I wanted. Oh, and mine says it was made in India 🙂
I’ve appreciated all you’ve posted about the G1 – it helped me make the final decision to buy one (and has put the 45-200 on my must-buy list) – but I also enjoy reading the rest of your diverse posts here. Thanks for all of it.
If you like Bridges but have never seen The Morning After (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0091554/), you might enjoy it. I thought the acting was excellent. Its been a while, but I recall finding the cinematography (Andrzej Bartkowiak), especially of some “empty” LA scenes, to be memorable.
Mr. Pindelski, please put me first in line for your (Depreciated) G1 when you are ready to move up and on to
The Next Greatest Thing…I’d like to give 4/3 a try, and yours would probably have a few good frames left in it!
Thanks
Thanks for the review, seriously thinking about getting this lens for my GF1. Just curious, why do you say the hood is of no use to you?
Rory – it adds a lot of bulk which makes it impossible to pocket and increases how noticeable you become. Plus, unless you are pointing it directly into the sun – in which case no hood works – it makes no difference with modern multi-coated lenses.
Thanks, I definitely understand the bulk factor. I am new to photography so only have a vague sense of what the point of a hood is. Not sure what exactly you mean by “multi coated lenses” but glad that I (hopefully) won’t need to drag the hood around with me.
Hmmm, I looked at the Apple offerings and they simply looked like “every expense had been spared to give the impression that none had been spared… ” (Douglas Adams). I went with the Logitech BT Laser Travel Mouse device @ 40% of the Mighty Mouse price and considering the MAC Book Pro 15′ has only two USB ports the need for an additional USB dongle was a ‘luxury, bloody luxury’. The look and feel is excellent and build quality is fit to purpose. MAC OSX picked the thing up with no problems and the Logitech driver is configurable via System Preferences – it also works well sans driver although the driver offers additional config settings. The scroll wheel is excellent and configurable. Pick-up isn’t as instantaneous as you describe but that’s a BT thing. I’ve used it for about a year now (OSX Tiger and Snow Leopard). Battery life is just shy of 8 months on 2 AA Alkaline batteries with daily use.
Regrds
I love your Steve Jobs’ comments. It made for an entertaining (as well as interesting) post to read. I also think that it will fail to attract too many buyers initially but not because of lack of bluetooth. In fact, I think bluetooth will probably be included. It is just that those who already have a laptop and a smartphone don’t want/need another expensive device. However, when these little machines morph into a truly powerful computer, they will start to replace laptops and Apple will again be in a position to reap the rewards for transforming personal computing.
Jonathan – fine, but the Logitech seems to be missing the side buttons which I find so useful for jumping to the desktop – something I do a lot as I’m visually oriented and generally include pictures with my content, be it blog or email. The Douglas Adams aphorism strikes me as spot on. Good point on the scarcity of USB sockets on (Apple) laptops.
I think you are probably in the ballpark on the tech specs (although I wouldn’t bet against bluetooth), however I think you are way off on the positioning/prospects. Whether it fails or succeeds is to be seen, but this is never going to be a laptop replacement. This is going to be an entertainment device. Pure and simple. iPods Touch are flying off the shelf (cf. yesterday’s earnings report, in which iPod volume is down but profits are up—i.e. the high-end is selling, big time). Apple has already proven they can sell expensive entertainment devices (yes, even in *this* economy). I see no reason to bet against them continuing to do so.
Sometimes you can achieve a degree of success with Photomatix HDR on a single exposure, so never exclude the possibility of its use. That example is an extreme case, a more subtle use of the software can just make an otherwise fairly dull photograph – slightly less dull?
However, I agree that in most cases, the tools in Lightroom can be used to engineer the tonal range required without any need for yet another app.
That’s very interesting. My wireless mouse has laid idle, gathering dust, for some time. I use a chunky old Logitech MX900 via BT and it’s ok, but showing its (considerable) age. I too like the side buttons but in considering the Magic Mouse I felt it just wasn’t going to cut it, the swiping movement on a mouse that’s already difficult to hold, no side buttons – no way. I shall give the 6000 a try.
I still think that if Lightroom and Excel are your top concerns, you are not getting the value proposition for this device at all. It is not meant as a computer replacement, it is meant as something to bridge the gap between your phone and your computer. Something to surf the web on the couch, watch a movie on the airplane, and keep up with email on the go. I agree, a camera would be nice for video conferencing; I disagree on flash—if we are lucky this will be the nail in the coffin for garbage flash websites/ads and something more open will take over as the video standard for the web. Finally, I do strongly prefer Pages to the Mac version of Word, and use it all the time. That said, I don’t expect to be writing essays or business documents much on my iPad…
The L1 doesn’t have a lousy EVF, it has no EVF it is an optical viewfinder because it is a DSLR! Also the sensor is not mediocre, it is susceptible to poor exposures more than some, but properly exposed even ISO is usable. I also have newer Olympus DSLRs and the image quality from the L1 in some respects exceeds them when MP are scaled. The L1 and L10 have very week AA filters, which makes output extremely sharp. The L1 has excellent colour reproduction but benefits from working in RAW. If you work in RAW you will find the DR is amongst the best in class. Plus no mention was made of three of the L1’s best features, the bounce flash, the quality of construction and the feel in the hand.
I stand corrected. I should have written that the L1 has a lousy optical viewfinder:
DPReview has the details.
Love this shot! It is an entire story there!
The same Feb. software update that added G1 RAW support to Aperture evidently added it to iPhoto ’09 as well. See… http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1001 (and I think GF1 support was added in another update later in February). I don’t shoot RAW (yet), so haven’t checked to see that it actually works. Also don’t recall hearing if the iPad version of iPhoto will be *exactly* the same as on a Mac, so you still may have to wait to try it on April 3rd.
Craig
I’ve had great service too. First got my iPhone replaced for a new battery. Took probably 15 or 20 minutes. I realized later there was a stain somewhere in the lens of the camera. I had to make an appointment, but again, replaced with no questions asked in about 10-15 minutes.
I tried this back when it first came out and, like you, found it wanting in many respects. I think I’ll give it another go now as the intervening years have seen even more senility creeping up on me too!
Do you need a separate app for the iPhone integration or does 1password3 cover that also?
You need to download the related app from the App Store to your iPhone and the separate app for your desktop.
Love this camera and i am saving up for this lens, mostly thanks to this post. Without this I would not have a useful insight to this lens. Thanks so much!
I confirm that in some other civilized places I know (Tokyo, Paris…), we have fiber-connected 50Mbps internet with free phone and TV for about 30$/month…
BUT :
– we can’t get the iPad yet (I had to get it with help from US)
– we may have to overpay the iPad once we know the pricing (like 549€=750$ instead of your 499$)
– we are geographically-filtered on the Store and can’t get any full-lenght movies or iBooks, and we may still have to wait quite a while to get them
Delighted to hear that your ‘early adopter’ experience with a brand new piece of Apple hardware appears to be such an unreserved success! Trusting your judgement on such things, I guess I will just have to indulge as well – as soon as they release this to the colonies (at some vastly inflated price no doubt).
It never ceases to amaze me how much Apple hardware is marked up in Europe., but I do believe that Steve Jobs has created another winner here.
Glad to hear your impressions of the iPad. I, frankly, was content with the iPhone. Now, I will checkout the iPad at the apple store.
Although you seem quite “pissed off” by his sarcasm, I must say that I was also surprised to see that you were quite iPad-centric these days … as much I am !
I think it’s quite interesting to see a photographer’s point of view on this new technological breed.
And I guess you may actually be experiencing an increased audience just because of that.
After a few thoughts about the potential of the iPad for photographers, I don’t expect LightRoom to be ported “as is”, as I think converting RAWs may be a bit too hard on the A4.
But a porting of iPhoto or Picasa may be very interesting as a light-weight JPEG exposure, white balance corrections and crop seem feasible (and are the only corrections I really need on the field).
And the benefit for the street photographer could be great : simply find a WiFi Cafe and you can share your art right away.
Alex
PS : please don’t flame my foreigner’s english ;-). And I must admit I’m quite interested of this longer iPad cable of yours…
I was also a bit scared of the iPad’s WiFi inconsistant performance I had in my office, but I guess it was due to the “over-crowded” radio-waves.
While the very same iPad was giving me a 20Mbps score at home.
I guess fluctuating results may actually come from speedtest’s app which may not be expecting such high speeds as it’s designed for the iPhone…
These are fantastic. Thanks for posting. I really like your shot of the petals on the GTO….
There is a free version of the app and a pay version, the pay version is now on sale for .99 cents. Worth every penny , thanks for the recommendation.
I definitely feel your pain. My first camera, a nikon coolpix must have been dropped 10+ times in the two and a half years I used it. It kept on chugging though right up until I purchased my first dslr. It lost half its finishing pieces, had three major dents and gave me many error messages but always worked after I reset it. I went back to it after about a month because I figured it would be nice to have my trusty back up in my bag for those days I invariably ran out of memory card space or battery life. Of course it refused to turn on. Crazy that me leaving the poor bastard alone is what finally finished it off.
As an architectural photog, it has been a personal fantasy of mine to NOT have to export into PSP just to make minor perspective tweaks. I imagine that LR will eventually have this feature built in someday, but until then you have shown me the light. Thanks for this post and hats off to a great blog!
So this is like screen sharing on the iPad eh?
Got me thinking that maybe I should pop into my Apple Store this launch morning to see if there are any left after all…
Well written, thorough, objective review. I’d like to see a before and after image that shows all the remotes the L5 Remote replaced.
Good overview of the key features Thomas. I’m running LR3 in trial mode pending the arrival of the upgrade disc purchased today (I still like to have a disc!).
I’ve found – as you say – that the new perspective control obviates the need to visit Photoshop pretty much completely now for day-to-day processing. The defaults for my Nikon 14-24mm lens were pretty well spot-on on the image I tried, and by switching to ‘manual’ I was able to refine the keystone correction by -1 or -2 to correct a slightly misaligned original viewpoint (subject was a rectangular display case viewed square on at close range).
The improved noise reduction is definitely one of the highlights for me as I often shoot at high ISO out of necessity on my D700. As with the Beta version, the difference between LR2 and LR3 is very apparent, perhaps even slightly more so if you opt to ‘Update the Process Version’ for a particular image in LR3.
I have yet to try the ‘Tethered Shooting’ feature but it is something that I will use a lot, having previously used the ‘Mountainstorm’ plugin with LR2 for this.(http://www.mountainstorm.co.uk/photography/Tether-Overview/Tether-Overview.html)
Thomas, congratulations for this 5-year-anniversary. I like your sophisticated blog very much. It’s a rather diligent work to publish so many comprehensive posts. It seemed to me you like writing articles, like a passionate author of books. Good for the readers, which will eagerly anticipate a lot of your exciting articles for the next five years.
Congratulations on five years. I started reading this site mainly since I’m trying to learn about photography, but I’ve actually been finding your commentaries about technology interesting as well.
That being said, the comment “I write to find out what I think.†raises a question for me. It seems to me that your prediction regarding the death of keyboards is heavily reliant on speech recognition becoming the new standard for text input. I’ve read comments from some people who already use this technology all the time on their computers and swear by it. However, when my dad tried it a few years back he soon went back to a keyboard, not because of the accuracy, but simply because he found that text he dictated was never as well thought out as what he typed. I’m curious as to whether you’ve used speech recognition, and if so what your experiences were.
Stuart – Thanks for the kind words.
Yes, I have been experimenting with speech recognition since my PC days over a decade ago and, no, I have not found anything up to snuff yet, whether among the ‘teach them your enunciation’ packages or those without the teaching need. But it will come and yes, my comments about keyboards dying are based on the expectation that speech recognition technology will get there. Realize that touch technology was, for most, a dream just a few years ago.
As regards dictation skills, I have too many years in business before the advent of personal computers and the obsolescence of secretaries for that to be an issue. It’s a skill like any other and needs to be learned. It happens to be a wonderful way of refining your thinking, writing and public speaking skills.
So in that regard, at least, the keyboard is a massive retrograde step for me as I now have to type where earlier I spoke to a dictaphone. Practically speaking, secretaries are cheaper than executive time spent on typing, but the world is not a rational place, mistaking motion for action all the time.
Nice HP 12C RPN calculator!!!!
Great article! I am eagerly looking forward to part 2. I just purchased an Apple TV today. It is indeed, awesome! I am currently trying to figure out best options for streaming music to Bose Lifestyle System via Apple TV. I’m interested to hear your commentary on sound quality after having installed a DAC before purchasing any more hardware. Cheers!
Very informative post Thomas. I’m considering this new incarnation of the TV box even though we still don’t have Netflix in the UK and it seems that the Jobs exchange rate ($1 = £1) is being applied to the price too.
Look forward to Part 2.
Hi there,
Great write up. I was looking at one of these in the Apple Store in Sydney yesterday, and they are very very nice. I am really looking forward to you sharing your experience of Adobe Lightroom on the Air. I have a 17″ MBP i7 for heavy lifting, but I would love something really portable to rate / select / rename etc. shots in Lightroom during my commute.
Great overview. Answered a lot of questions for me, though I am still debating the value of going for the upgrade to 4Gb.
Mind telling me how much disk space is left after the base OS and Lightroom are installed?
With Lightroom3, Photoshop CS2, iWork and iLife (iPhoto only) installed, I have 41.3gB available.
Thanks for the updates, both RAM and diskspace. This is really looking like a nice option for lightroom on the go!
I just want to say thanks for testing the system so thoroughly from the POV of a photographer
I concur. Great reviews.
Thanks thomas for the overview. answers some questions. do you think the 1,6 CPU is worth the extra money? i will also use this machine for LR3, mail and safari. Have you ever tested raw files larger than the G1’s, for i will only use the canon 5d mkII.
GPU specs are far more relevant to LR3 performance than CPU. All the new MBAs use the same Nvidia 320M GPU which is an excellent piece, beaten only by the latest in full size desk- and laptops. I would expect download and preview generation times to scale pro-rata to file size, but once done, file-to-file times will be much the same as LR3 is looking at the JPG preview, not the RAW file.
Your best bet is to take your camera’s card with a reader into the Apple Store and try the MBA to see if you can live with the performance. Apple Store computers obviously do not have Lightroom loaded on them but you can use Aperture as a proxy to gauge performance. The MBA and iMacs I have tried in the store all had Aperture installed.
thanks thomas! i will speak to my local mac dealer. maybe they will even let me install LR. the other thing i will have to try is shooting tethered, which i do on lots of my jobs.
Thanks for this great series of articles. As I’m about to buy an Apple TV, I found the technical details you go into very interesting.
I have a couple questions about this. First, can you confirm that the audio output of the Apple TV goes both to the HDMI and to the optical audio? (This would mean that one can listen to some music without having to turn on the TV, or inversely watch a movie without having to turn on the stereo.)
Second, the DAC you recommend is quite difficult to find in France, and I could not find it for less than 75 €. I was wondering if you’ve heard anything about the AU-D3 from CYP, which seems to be very similar and easier to find here.
Thanks again,
Alan
Alan – The audio output is routed to both the HDMI and Toslink optical outlets at all times. If you mute the HDMI routed to the TV’s speakers you can still hear the optical digital sound via your amplifier; mute the amplifier and turn on the TV’s speakers and you will still get sound. All of this with both the HDMI and Toslink cables connected to the ATV. In other words, connecting both outlets mutes neither. So this should work for your purposes, if I am understanding your question correctly, where you appear to desire the option of sound without video.
As for the AU-D3, I am not familiar with it, though after looking at your link I have to say it looks very similar to the Gefen I use. It’s probably a good bet that this is the same unit marketed by a different reseller. This is my first ever use of optical/digital sound outputs and I went with the Gefen DAC for the simple reason that it was known to work with the AppleTV Mark II. If you decide to try a cheaper alternative make sure there’s a money-back guarantee. I have no incentive to recommend the Gefen over any other device except to say that I know it works well. For me, functionality at the lowest price rules!
If the AU-D3 works for you, please post here and say so. I greatly value my French readers’ interests!
Not at all happy reading this. I thought I was going to be able talk myself out of wanting an 11″ mba.
Very thorough, also appreciate the photog pov. Thank you.
I absolutely am in love with his photography. I could stare at it all day. Thanks for posting!
I checked out his photos after reading this post, and I must say he has got some magnificent shots. As far as nudity goes, I don’t mind either so long as they are absolutely amazing. Thank you so much for introducing me to him. You’ve got a great blog.
I just received my Apple TV and the AU-D3, and everything works perfectly! I can listen to my (home shared) iTunes library without having to turn on the TV.
Thanks again for these very useful articles, you much helped me in deciding to go the Apple TV / adapter route.
Alan
I have just ordered a pair of these very binoculars today. I had a pair of Trinovid 14 X 42BA they were also wonderful but I am looking forward to trying the 7 X Trinovid. I am totally committed to the Leica brand. All my photographic taking projecting and printing equ is made by this iconic German manufacturer
Kenneth
I’m surprised to read “Apple has said that it does not support external HDDs for use with AirPlay”. If you create a symbolic link from your iTunes library to an external HD, how could iTunes know where the files come form?
Has anyone found a Designjet Utility that works with OSX10.6 ?
Try the HP web site here.
A blah year for certain. I was hoping for an interesting and inspiring prime lens, but saw nothing to get me away from the 14-45 and 45-200 combo. For $60 on eBay one can pick up semi old but decent manual 50mm f/1.4 lenses, another $30 for an M42 mount adaptor …. so I am a bit underwhelmed by the f/0.95 Voightlander. Where is the fast prime with rapid autofocus and decent OIS? I say give us that, with a G1 with a markedly improved sensor, and I will be happy.
Exciting for sure but the big missed to me is the fixed lens.
None of these types of fixed lens cameras ever made it great, it’s too specialised.
Some would like it wider or longer depending of their style.
Even a street photographer might want at times to use different focal lenghts.
As for me, it won’t make it for sure, I just want ONE camera and not a few for different uses.
It has to be my “do it all” camera.
Nonetheless, the technology inside this camera is promising for future models.
Happy New Year!
The First Amendment needs vigorous defence.
e.g.
http://gizmodo.com/5553765/are-cameras-the-new-guns
TomsWell,
yes, there is a new utility. I just installed it today as I was having the same issues. It’s available on the HP site. If you go to their drivers, DJ 90, and then software, it’s right there.
Thomas, thanks for in the information on the Light Cyan print head. I have the identical issue and couldn’t find a cure. New print head is on order so hopefully I’ll see similar results.
~Chris
Whatever Steve Jobs is – charlatan or genius – Apple with him is much better than Apple with Gil Amelio.
Also, charlatan or genius – Steve Jobs manages to get a lot of very bright engineers to work in a common direction; and that could be more important than all his mistakes. He has a definite, viable vision, and herds all the cats in that direction.
My goodness, you are on quite a tear –what an enjoyable set!
I have a similar and slightly smaller Swiss army bag I picked up at an Army surplus store for my first SLR, way back in 1980. I still use it today for the G1 and lenses. With the body and kit lens, along with the 45-200 lens, and the ebay special Super Tak 50mm screwed onto and adaptor…. I still can barely feel the thing hanging off my shoulder.
Why not correct verticals in lightroom?
Chris – The LR vertical correction is rudimentary. What it does is pivot the picture centered on a horizontal axis drawn through the middle of the image. This means a lot of the image is cut off at the top or bottom. By contrast the ‘Edit->Transform->Distort’ control in Photoshop permits stretching of the image in any direction at any edge or center, thus allowing for non-symmetrical distortion correction and preservation of much more of the original.
I illustrate this below where the original has had -18 Vertical perspective correction applied in LR3 – look at the amount of blank space at the base which will have to be cropped, using the ‘Constrain Crop’ checkbox in LR. See also how much of the brickwork at the top has been lost. By contrast, the PS approach allows the user to stretch the top corners of the image outward without creating any need for cropping at the base. You can also stretch the image vertically (or horizontally) to correct for foreshortening caused by the distortion controls.
Vertical perspective correction using LR3.
Thanks! It worked with one extra step –
step 0: make sure the memory card slot is not empty.
Every single time I tried it with a memory card it worked – and with out a card I could not get it to work.
And what the heck is “fine” white balance. Their exif data does not show if a flash was fired etc, and when I would choose a new image sample to look at it kept bringing me to the old.
The more I see this the more I love my F5 and Fuji FILM
Like half the rest of the world (the other half has been saying it isn’t as good as a Leica for 3 months) I was a bit disappointed when I first looked at the samples but downloaded a couple of the black and white shots, tweaked the contrast and sharpness and WOW! My theory is they just showed the results with factory default settings to give the reviewers something to rave about in a few weeks.
Fuji do seem to have given prototypes to a few photographers to play with and the results are just starting to filter through:
In regards to the first, i.e. “What were they thinking of here?”, perhaps they were thinking of making mashed potatoes from scratch?
I agree about the pictures. A few of them are nice, but most of them “stink”.
Get a professional to take those photos, and do it all the way from ISO 200 to ISO 6400 (or above).
It is incredible that Fuji makes such a nice camera and then posts those mediocre samples.
Fuji Guys Twitter Stream (http://twitter.com/fujiguys) states Mac OS will be supported by SilkPix.
“#Fuji X100 Raw Converter Silkpix (included) S/W will be compatible with Windows OS and Mac OS for all #photog that shoot RAW”
Let’s hope The Fuji Guys ran out of LaBatt for at least a couple of hours before they tweeted this.
While the thought of using Silkpix makes me tremble in my boots, but at least it’s an option (even for Mac users) until Camera Raw support is available.
Based on my experience with the LUMIX G1, I think manual focus could be very fast using the EVF instant zoom method. Of course zone focusing via the focus point scale and DOF bar is an even quicker option (especially if ISO 800 is clean and you’re not addicted to subject isolation as a MO).
I can guarantee that if they released the software for Macs only there would be vastly more uproar about it. Most people with Macs also run emulators or have a separate dedicated PC. Not so in reverse.
As for the case – this is useful for protecting it in transit. I can’t see many people slinging it around their neck and walking about like a tourist, can you?
As for the lens hood – just generally useful.
I think you can just assume that 95% of people buying this are well enough off not to worry too much about the cost of the case and lens hood. It sucks that they didn’t include the hood in the basic package, but I consider it to be more important than a protective filter…
As for video support – this is a box ticking exercise – video has to be added to every new camera by law because of all those people who keep saying in forums that they intend to use their DSLR or high end compact for video, but then never do. No matter how unusable and superfluous the video feature is, it has to be in there. Look on the bright side – at least there’s no dedicated video button – unlike the GF2.
People who are about posing are going to buy a Leica. The Fuji X100 is the thinking man’s Leica. It’s priced absolutely appropriately for its featureset and expected sales volume. Anything with a niche market will always cost more – it’s necessary to cover the R&D expenditure. Basic economics.
It does not interest me either but the brochure does mention a video mode.
“HD Movie:
Premium Quality Movies
Exploiting the amazing quality and performance of the large CMOS sensor and high-speed processor, the X100 can shoot up to 10 minutes of high-definition movies (720p, 24fps). In addition to full AUTO exposure, users can also shoot with aperture priority AE. Taking advantage of the bright F2 lens, you can capture movies with a softly defocused “bokeh†background. Later with plug-and-play ease, connect the camera directly to your TV with the HDMI cable (sold separately), and enjoy sharing your movies complete with stereo audio on the big screen.”
The photographer was Craig McDean; the model is Karlie Kloss.
Oops, I just upgraded to the Lion. Thank you for your tips. I will buy an HDD for backup & osx10.6.
Thanks for making and posting your photograph at The 21st Amendment. That’s a pretty delightful gesture in the painting on the wall of your photograph. The gesture makes me want to stop in the next time I get to Candlestick Park from Brooklyn. The gesture calls to mind Walker Evans’s pre-FSA photograph the Getty entitles Second Avenue Lunch.
There is a new themed exhibition at The Julia Margaret Cameron Museum on The isle of Wight UK
PARKINSON PHOTOGRAPHS THE AGE OF INNOCENCE
Introduction by Fay Weldon Curated by The Angela Williams Archive
Parkinson’s photographs including children – 1950-1975
I had the previous version of Richard Harrington’s book, and add to your endorsement.
Thanks. What a candid report. I’ve been hesitating buying a Panasonic 20mm lens because of the high price. The reviews are glowing about it and everybody seems to want one, Ebay used auctions reach new prices almost.
Now I’m hesitating more! Thanks.
I just wish you had written it on April 2nd!
Pete
Thanks. I’m very happy with my 14-45 too. I’ve given it a lot of exercise this month, now that the spring warmth tempts me outside. And the G1 twistable LCD is a dream for low level shots. A brilliant combination, Panasonic.
To start with my situation: I bought a Designjet 90 cheap (not working of course) as my first larger format printer, for my first attempt at selling my work. Replaced the heads first, everyone of them was clogged …. it wouldn’t print a thing.
On to your blog; thank you so much!!! So informative, so in depth, and written to be understood by all. I saw the blockage in my yellow tube right before I found your blog. Also the link to the service manual is awesome! I’ve been googling the heck out of yellow ink issues with the designjet 90 for hours…and you had the problem listed as a known issue. No I haven’t repaired it yet, but the thanks is in advance.
Sincerely, Thanks again for the information and all the other tips relating to the designjet line.
Kevin A Moore Seattle, WA
Thanks for the heads-up. And keep your info and observations coming.
I was lucky enough to receive, in 1971, the old Singer my Grandmother used all her life. I can even remember my father electrifying it for her when I was very young. I actually made my daughter’s baby clothes on the ancient machine – which remains a special memory for me. Especially since my Grandmother was long dead and would never see her Great-Grandchild. Thanks for the image and for rekindling a warm memory.
Nice pic. Reminds me of the Robert Frank streetcar photo from The Americans!
Michael –
It’s been haunting me where I first saw that and your comment had me rushing to my Frank book of ‘The Americans’ only to find you are right!
Why do we do these things? Are they merely triggered by conditional responses of memory?
Of course what puts Frank’s snap in a different league is that mean looking woman on the left.
What a picture.
But I confess, I had no recall of his picture until your mention of it.
Many thanks.
Gotta love those jeans and sneakers. Style, you know?
I think HCB may be sharing the secrets of life here, not just photography. I’ve watched this about 20 times already, and keep getting something new every time. I doubt there will ever be another HCB, he’s in a class of his own.
I too am on the edge. But at $599 (see Adorama link below), it is at least a touch more interest generating than at the feared one grand price point…..
http://www.adorama.com/IPC2514M.html?utm_source=rflaid64498&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Other&utm_term=Other
I bought an M42/MFT adapter for $30 and an ancient yet pristine Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 for about 60 bucks 2 years ago. True, no AF or OIS, and it is heavy, but at 1/10th the price it sure works fine for me.
Another very useful little App, love the way it works across multiple displays – Thanks!
Dear Thomas,
I have silently followed your photographs since long time.
Leaving the digital/film discussion aside I guess your pictures lost some of the street soul since you went to digital, I could not say exactly what.
However these snaps were really awesome!
No matter is was Leica or G1, these were the best pic you ever posted in you site in years.
No words to describe the lady look, the moment … You know you got it.
I was wondering how great it would be in a grainy B/W version with the proper highlights recovered.
Congratulations,
Leandro.
I’ve been researching this issue. For screen calibration you could use these sensors with the open source argyll color management software and its dispcalgui counterpart. It looks like good software, runs on my hack, I haven’t got a sensor to test it yet.
Having just installed Lion on my Macbook (prior to risking it on my HackPro or iMac without prior testing) I wholeheartedly agree with all of these!
With a trackpad, the gestures that I’d got quite adept at are now all confused – the counter-intuitive scrolling being the worst, and Apple has the cheek to call the new default ‘natural’ scrolling!
I also use ‘All-in-one-Gestures’ in Firefox (my default browser) – that no longer works because of the general gesture changes with the trackpad.
Definitely a case of ‘one step forward, two steps back’. Dumbing down is right!
I tried the Argyll software plus Dispcalgui. Once I got it working (it’s a very raw product with a user interface only a software writer could love – it looks a bit like Windows before there was a Windows and the MSFT DOS command line ruled) it recognized my EyeOne right away, went through the calibration routine, allowed me to measure ambient light levels, and flashed color patches for the colorimeter to read in the usual way but …. it then refused to save the profile. That’s likely an OS X file permission issue but, frankly, life’s too short to mess with this sort of irritation and I don’t pretend to understand more than 5% of what the software UI discloses, so I’ll stick to the Snow Leopard method I discuss above. It’s a bit like a car maker pontificating on the timing of his engine’s spark ignition settings when all you want is for the bloody thing to start when you turn the ignition key.
Meanwhile, Xrite has emailed me promising that an Intel version of their profiling software will be available ‘soon’ at a ‘modest’ fee. Let’s hope that’s ‘soon’ as in Blitzkrieg not ‘soon’ as in the US Government extending its debt ceiling and paying its bills. Recent buyers of the EyeOne get the upgrade free, they said.
While Lion is inevitable, nothing forces one to be an early adopter. When the 0.1 version is available is the earliest for upgrade.
Yes exporting photographs in lightroom works much faster on multi-core.
Couldn’t agree more. You took the words right out of my mouth.
I seem to have a soft spot for anything that is worn down that was once so great. Photos of buildings and objects that are forgotten just inspire you to think of what they once were.
Thanks Thomas great article, it inspired me to build my own (thanks einstraus for putting me on to you). I have just succeeded getting Lion to run on my Hack’, I thought I would add my experiences and comments.
– I like your choice of components I was able to find everything (August 2011) …even in Canada!
– The graphics card GT430 comes in two guises – I tracked down the one in your illustration (2x DVI outputs) as opposed to the alternate with one DVI and one VGA. I think this is important in case you ever want to run a 27″ screen in which case both DVIs are needed to drive the monitor. (I’m not 100% sure on this, but there’s no upside to having the VGA output for me). (Editor’s note: This is not correct. Read this to understand the requirements for 27″ and 30″ LCD displays.
– Brand / model no.s of other components (RAM, HDDs, CD-ROM) is NOT critical – choice of MoBo and Graphics card IS!
– If you go for two 2.5″ HDDs then you need to come up with a way of mounting them in the Antec case which only provides space for one (right at the bottom). What I ended up doing was using tie-wraps to lash-down each HDD onto a 3.5″ tray sandwiching the silicone stand-offs (tray and stand-offs come with Antec case). I then grounded each HDD case to the Hack’ case using some multistrand wire. Alternatively you could buy tray adapters for $10 each!
– I opted for one 500 GB hybrid drive as you suggest, and one 120 GB Solid State which is big enough for the OS and Applications that I use.
– You should use anti-static tie-wraps inside the Hack’
– The fan on the CPU cooler blocks the 4th RAM slot. If I ever need it, I will move the fan to the other side (unclips easily), and perhaps re-wire it to suck rather than blow through the fins to maintain good air flow through the case
– Kakewalk (4.04) did 90% of the install, but I had to run MultiBeast (Ed. – He means Chameleon). before I could boot from the HDD. This took me a long time to work out…!
– TonyMacX86 is an excellent resource, use it!
Phew.
I tested my Hack’ (un-overclocked) and got a GeekBench32 score of 8938
The cost of my build excluding monitor, keyboard etc is about $850 (including Canadian taxes).
Thanks again Thomas, Kakewalk, and TonyMac
Re VirtualBox: could this be an alternative to the Hackintosh?
OS X running on standard Windows hardware is an attractive proposition. I’ve been tempted to build a Hackintosh, but without the services of an FU Steve it has seemed like too much of a science project for someone who has work to do and no need of another hobby.
Could VirtualBox be a plug-and-play Hackintosh?
Yes, but with a note of caution. There are performance trade offs (which I have not measured) as there’s a lot more code between you and OS X. Also, you will likely have some teething problems getting all your peripherals – printers, input devices, webcams, wireless and so on, working properly. But the cost of experimentation is very low. You can now buy OS Lion on a USB drive from Apple for $70 and Virtual Box is free. Why not give it a shot and document your experiences here?
Forgot to credit FU Steve – thanks for the components list and good advice!
I agree. They are so on the mark with design, yet so off the mark with the sensor that I want to scream. Throw a big(ish) sensor (aps-c) into a compact body with some basic glass, manual controls, and a solid viewfinder and you will not be able to keep it on the shelf. We all want the tactile usability of the ubiquitous camera’s like the canonet, or the fuji’s of the 60’s, but with the benefits of digital. Why is this so hard? They got close with the X100, really close, but this camera is a step farther away. From purely a design standpoint, I love it, and it looks like it would be more premium, and not an LX3 sensor in a Leica body.
I’m going to keep shooting with my current cameras until they die, by then maybe someone will simply manufacture a new camera according to a very specific list of desires in evidence all over the web.
I think the vast majority of buyers of this camera will be owners of DSLR’s of some vintage who remember the days of film rangefinders with some longing. I also think that Fuji has the larger sensor coming out in the future in an X10 like body. I will most likely buy an X10 as it will be a great snapshot and street photography camera, and the perfect camera for those times when you’re too smartly dressed to carry a tripod and proper dslr. I want my Fuji X10!
Rajan – I have written lots about it here – using both PT Lens and predecessors.
Type ‘QTVR’ in the search box at right – I have focused mainly on VR 360 panos, some of which you can view here. Much of the technique involved in assembling QTVRs decribed in these articles still applies with newer products as most use the same underlying pano engine, so all that information about control points remains valid.
Alternatively, click categories->photographty->technique->qtvr at right.
I wrote about PTLens here which has the advantage of working in Lion as no Rosetta PPC emulator is required.
The superb Canon 15mm Fisheye in conjunction with this software would be a great addition to your landscape arsenal at a fraction of the cost of the less effective Canon 14mm ‘L’ optic, whether you simply need an ultra-wide rectilinear result or want to render QTVRs.
The artistry of this old building really shines through. Living here in New York City it is sad to see so much new construction that is uninspired and so devoid of craft.
Great timing! I am considering purchasing a mirrorless system myself, and these real world examples give a good sense of what they can do.
So simple yet when I look at it i know there is something to which I was attracted. especially with the black and white effect.
I think it is an FX3, not an FX4, sir.
Nice site.
What a lovely Hopper-esque moment you have captured on Leidesdorff Street!
I really like this – so subtle but tells you so much.
I preordered one too in the end.
Hello there !
Just a quick word to thank you very much for this tutorial. After months of browsing the internet around hackintosh, I found your experience inspiring and decided to follow it. I did not have enough time to test my brand new machine, but I must say I’m already impressed by the ratio cost/performance !! Thank you again so much….
Laurent (from France)
Hi Tom,
I enjoy your blog a lot. Many of your old entries, such as this one, are prophetically on the mark. Here is a recent picture I took with the GH1 wearing a (borrowed) Elmar.
Yes folks, your tax dollars at work, thankfully so. This is truly an amazing link, thank you for sharing it. The last one and #21 really stand out to me, but I have to say that “Rosie Riveter” #66 is my immediate favorite. Just awesome.
Many more amazing ones, as the LOC has posted over a thousand of these on Flickr.
Thanks for this. I’ll definitely go down this route rather than sending this company more of my money. Man, they stung me with a no-free upgrade policy after I bought a very expensive early version of the eye-one Photo. I think I paid $1500 for something that will only profile monitors and will barely profile a printer.
GM/Xrite lost me as a customer right at the beginning, and this continued terrible software support only confirms my view. I’ll be dumping the sensor and buying something less expensive when I finally get fed up with booting up SL to profile my monitors.
Nice theme!
It sort of works on Android tablets too. On my Asus Eee Transformer the menu entries are smaller than on the iPad.
You might want to get rid of the message box saying that you only see the message on the first visit on the iPad or iPhone. On the Android tablet you see it over and over again each time you hit the back button, it’s very confusing.
Thanks for the heads up, I ordered the book from Bill’s site. Even though it meant I had to pay a higher price than on Amazon, the CA tax and shipping fees from Mountain View to Mountain View 🙂
It’s a reminder to get an iPad! More seriously, the theme app used does not currently make provision for disabling that message.
P.S. you are a brave street snapper, I wouldn’t want to get Miss Pink mad at me.
Completely agree. I posted about this today (http://littlelogos.tumblr.com/) and then started reading up on who else might think the same thing.
I think it should be a body and help create an app and hardware ecosystem. Nice post.
Nice! Inspired by one your older posts, I built a Core i7-2600k machine to replace my aging first generation MacPro. I went with the P67 mobo with 16GB Corsair RAM. Here is the geekbench for that machine:
http://browse.geekbench.ca/geekbench2/view/513165
I put in it an insane amount of disk space, something you cannot do on a MacPro even if you want: I have 8 x 3TB drives, setup in a hardware RAID 6 using an Areca board. MacOS X works beautifully with it.
Great shot. Of all of the street shots I’ve seen on your site, this one resonates the most. Maybe because for most of my life I’ve been a wearer of hats. it also is a great demonstration of what that camera and lens combination can create. It just makes me feel good on many levels. Thanks
An impressive result Thomas, nicely presented.
My New Year’s Resolutions list has its first item it seems…
That is a highly striking example of that technique/manipulation in play! I am confused about the books though, they are not part of the mural, are they? But they kind of become part of it in a nice way.
I tried the Beta software on a new MacBook Air that came loaded with Lion. The first problem was that I could not match the brightness. The brightest setting on the MBA was said by the new software to measure only 104, and that was far brighter than anything I would use. The profile it came up with made everything look horribly pink, so I reverted to the laptop default, and ran the Apple calibration utility. Since I use the laptop on-site only to judge composition and focus, this is really no big deal. I can live just fine with the display as is. I am using Snow Leopard on a desktop with an Epson 3800 printer, for which the i1 Display 2 works fine. It is the only program that is preventing me from upgrading to Lion, but I can’t rationalize the cost of a new Display Pro. Oh well, I will try again when the software leaves Beta.
Seems like the Hackintosh is a bit like getting plastic surgery, or a tattoo. . . the more you get done the more you get. Thanks for your insight and sharing your info here. Made my first build much easier.
If you come to Canada anytime soon (I’m an hour and a half from Banff) I’ll buy you an ale, or a local microbrew.
Bruce, golden, BC, Canada
I have no use for Mac info but could not help but wonder if you waited for just the right moment for the red label to appear on the lower third before snapping the TV picture. Or was it when the sound of Queen’s English filled the room?
Thanks for putting this online… my dj90 is being colourblind also… think my yellow print head is at fault. meh
Hi,
Thank you for your nice article on The HackMini.
I like your good writing.
Thanks
Thank you!
Your information is much better than what HP publish. I’ve been having troubles all day.
YOU ARE GREAT!!!!
Happy Birthday!
Here is the sales pitch:
http://www.christies.com/features/andreas-gursky-rhein-ii-1844-4.aspx
Pfew! It is nice to know that I am not alone, I was beginning to wonder.
“Be there and f/8” is all that matters.
Thanks for the tutorial. It’s great! If you are using an outside vendor for printing, what do you select for Profile under color management?
The better printing vendors will provide you with profiles to use, or will advise you of which paper they use so that you can download the appropriate profile from the paper maker’s site. I address how to use non-HP profiles in this piece.
If I didn’t already have a copy of this beautiful book, I would indeed order another. It’s a masterful work and both the photography and the printing of the book itself are superb. Definitely a must have!
“I will cease publishing exposure data with my snaps. I mean, c’mon, who cares? It’s an auto-everything world in any case.”
The world is changing too fast for us in the doddering segment. We can’t harumph and say “that would’ve looked better if he had used Agfa Ultra 50″ – so at least leave in the EXIF data for those of us that need such comforting.
” and computers as they relate to the topic”
I would be happy if you continue talking about computers in general. Certainly your sagas regarding your hackintosh and home theater projects are excellent guides to anyone taking the plunge into either area.
Here are some trains for which your iPhone would make a great big screen for the Drive-In. I should suggest that to the NMRA guys. http://silentsmusings.blogspot.com/2011/12/trains.html
Well said!!!
Just downloaded your lens profiles and they’re working nicely. It’s very public spirited of you to make them available, and I commend you for that. I’m also very happy to be turned on to your blog!
Hello Thomas Pindelski,
If IMDB is not mistaken, “The Big Sleep” was released in 1946.
I enjoy your site. Keep up the action!
Hmmm. Wikipedia has it as 1939. Oh!, that’s the book. You are right – the movie is 1946.
Thomas,
love the bike. I’ve been shopping for one recently and have heard nothing but good about them. Visceral indeed. Great post.
Cheers,
(a youngster) Jonathan Marsh
Thanks, this is a great find!
It was indeed an excellent drama-documentary, with all the characters well-formed and as close to the originals as it’s possible to be. I thought the closing credits, where they showed the Bailey originals of the photographs depicted being made in the film, proved exactly how good their attention to detail was.
As for old cameras, I used to have a Pentax SV, but I certainly wasn’t well-heeled! I replaced it with a Nikon FM, which I still have. I took a photo a couple of years back of a friend’s FM – this is how a late-1970s Nikon FM looks today – still in use, still working fine, no sandpaper applied…
Excellent article, however I have the same network card TL-WN951N 300 Mbps, and is getting Kernel Panics with my configuration … So how did you get it to work with an i5 and Lion??? My configuration is an Intel Extreme DX58SO, i7 950, 6Gb Kingston Hyper Tri-Channel, XFX HD6870 1Gb DDR5, and I installed Lion 10.7.2, and I constantly get KPs and the dreaded 809c: Unknown locale error, so if you can give me a tip of how did you get the TL-WN951N to work fine I will really appreciate, what kexts or hacks did you use?
Because I wanted to use AirDrop in Lion I have migrated to a PCMCIA card with a Broadcom wifi card which has the related benefit that it supports 5gHz 802/11n (in addition to 2.4gHz) and requires no kexts – plug-an-play – and behaves just like Airport in a Mac. You can read about it here. Uses one short slot on your motherboard.
Hi Thomas – I’m glad you liked the movie. It will actually be showing in the USA – from 11 February at 8pm ET/9pm PT on the Ovation Network.
I’m also pleased you caught on that Aneurin did well with his cameras – he was very hard-working in studying how to handle them. In actual fact, he surprised us at the end of shooting by producing a fantastic album of on-set pictures: it turned out that every time he had to be using a camera in a scene, he loaded real film and really shot! He presented Bailey with a copy of the album when they met for a Vogue photoshoot later last summer – you can see them looking at it together in the behind-the-scenes short we made, which comes with the DVD. An excerpt was posted on fashion/photography site Nowness, here –
http://www.nowness.com/day/2012/1/17/1825/david-bailey-takes-manhattan
best regards
John
Thomas…you’re awesome for posting all this info and including the helpful links! I was leaving my DJ unplugged (for fear that our frustratingly frequent city power outages would fry the power unit) and didn’t even think/know about how it affected the ink.
Here’s a tip for you…buy HP inks on ebay and you’ll save around 50% of what you’d pay at Atlex!
Best Regards.
Carmen – Thanks for the kind words. However, I do not agree with your suggestion to buy inks on eBay. eBay is the repository of more crooks than are in our prison system. Many of these cartridges are outdated and will not work (the DJ checks age on the cartridge’s chip). Other have been illicitly refilled with aftermarket inks which variously destroy the printer or fade rapidly once the print is made. Saving on cartridges is the ultimate false economy if you care about the longevity of your printer and prints.
As regards the power outages, simply get a small surge suppressor and install it between printer and power. $20. Then leave the printer plugged in (but switched off) at all times.
I think on a color chart, Adobe RGB colorspace is twice the area of the sRGB color space. So to measure a color with the same resolution in Adobe RGB as in sRGB, you need twice the number of values, i.e., an additional bit. So I think if you’re happy with 12-bit sRGB, you’d want 13-bit Adobe RGB. Of course, your choices are 12-bit and 14-bit, so you should choose 14-bit Adobe RGB, or in color gamut restricted situations (are there any such?) 14-bit sRGB. At least, so it seems to me.
While Ken R*ckw*ll may be an acquired taste, I found his guide for the Nikon D200 a good way to distill info from the manual. He has one for the D700 here:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d700/users-guide/index.htm
Caveat emptor etc…
Excellent result Thomas – handsome young fellow indeed, wish him Happy Birthday!
I’ve used the tethered D700/Lightroom/MacBook combo several times, sitters really appreciate it although I find we end up taking approximately 100% more shots than I would left to my own judgement! The results pay off though.
These fish images are fantastic, they line up perfectly and look delicious…well half of them do anyway! 😉
What a great review, I had not heard about this company. I see that they have a smaller sized bag, e.g. for the lumix G and lenses. Timely, as the compact grey swiss army bag I picked up for 8 bucks 30 years ago is finally showing signs of functional wear.
I have a G3 and have been lusting after a D700, so this is pretty interesting to me. Thanks!
Hello,
i am having the same problems.
The Utilty does not work on imac with 10.7 nor on Win7, both connected with USB.
I do have to try your solution to delete everything on my imac befor reinstalling.
The HP Webpages do not have the information you linked anymore and its not clear to me which tool i really have to install so that it will work.
i replaced the black ink and the black head but its not better.
I am glad you posted the pictures here, so i will try to clean heads on the printer itself. hope this will work.
Yes HP is a poor company on support but the printers are really great.
Cheers
Reto
Thanks for the great review. In particular, Apple isn’t clear that the optical out is a Toslink, so your verification of that has been very helpful.
“Oppilas” = “Student” in Finnish. 🙂
I’ve made the trip to my wit’s end and back with this identical problem. At this point, I am still unable to get the System Maintenance Utility to run on my 2010 iMac running Snow Leopard. Yes, I’ve spent time on the phone with HP tech support. No luck so far. What I cannot understand is why they just can’t be honest and admit that they haven’t fulfilled their end of the consumer/supplier bargain. When I began this nightmare I had not, yet, surfed the web to find information about a fix, and other unhappy HP customers in the same predicament. I’ve done Epson and I’ve done HP. Over the years, I’ve had similar experiences with both companies, although to be fair, Epson was ultimately able to solve my problem. Thus far, HP has not.
At this point in time, I have a fix: I use an old G4 PowerMac running OS 10.4 connected to the HP 90 via network card to run the HP Utility. Yes, I had to purchase and install a network card on the 90 rather than switch around USB cables, so both old and new Macs are connected to the 90 all the time. This provides a quick software-based solution to my needs (I am a full time, freelance graphic designer). I currently have 2 HP printers and one Epson large format Photo Printer. Might be my last HP printer purchase however.
This is one man’s story.
Author’s comment: I adopt a similar approach, using a G4 iMac. Life’s too short to mess with HP’s inappropriately named ‘Support’. What would you expect from the worst run company in America, which is on its fourth CEO in five years?
Oh man! with a 20mm you must’ve been close enough to know what cologne they use 🙂
Did he up your 20mm with a 9mm?
Nice job!!!
Hi Thomas.
Thank you for taking the time to provide this excellent information.
In LR4 is there any way to get “Enable Profile Corrections” under “Lens Corrections” to be enabled by default? I’m sure it’s obvious but unfortunately not obvious enough for me.
Thanks in advance,
Bob Tobias
Author’s reply: Yes, there is. Check this link where I am placing all profiles I create.
http://www.therecord.com/whatson/artsentertainment/article/713846–vogue-article-on-glamorous-syrian-first-lady-backfires
Quote:
“Although the Vogue piece didn’t mention it, the photos that accompanied the article — of Asmara, her husband and two of their children at home in Damascus — were facilitated by an American public-relations firm working for the Syrian government. The firm, Brown Lloyd James, was paid $25,000 to set up a photo session with James Nachtwey, the famed war photographer who shot the pictures for Vogue.”
““Our firm’s role was limited to liaising between the two sides to schedule logistics for the piece in November 2010,†the company said in a statement this week. It said it began working for the Syrian government “during a thaw†in relations with the U.S. and during a period when “the international community was encouraging increased engagement with Syria.â€
End quote.
Here is the Brown Lloyd James website:
http://www.brownlloydjames.com/ME
The use of an agent in lieu of the principal to retain the photographer in no way relieves the latter of his ethical obligations.
The use of an agent in lieu of the principal to retain the photographer in no way relieves the latter of his ethical obligations.
Wholeheartedly agree. Just wanted to point out that there is a whole network of “respectable” but ethically challenged people out there. Nachtwey is probably just a symptom.
I recall reading similar puff pieces about the Shah of Iran, for instance, in the Reader’s Digest. And on Empress Farah. Then the Shah was overthrown. Then, in my undergrad dorm, there was someone whose father had worked in Iran as a civil engineer during the Shah’s time, and he told me the tales of people terrorized by the Iranian secret police, the Savaak, under the Shah. You wouldn’t hear that in the media, though. The Shah and his wife were similarly portrayed as wonderful people. Not to say those who replaced him are any better. But maybe the truth would have served us better.
I’ve been thinking about making the leap from AMD to Intel just so I can have a setup like this, after reading this I am very persuaded. Thanks.
The first image is quite amazing, among many wonderful ones that you post. Curiously, it instantly reminded me of your ’70s B&W image of the woman observing the statue in the park. I would have to go look at that one again to figure out why, but maybe it is the way the sleeping man’s body is positioned/contorted. What a catch!
Thanks for the kind words. This is the image you are thinking of, and the technical data are easy to remember, even if the snap is some 40 years old. You see, that’s the only camera and lens I owned back then!
Reg Butler sculpture, Holland Park, London, 1973.
Leica M3, 50mm DR Summicron, Tri-X processed in D76.
I wonder what stuff from the current day will last a generation and be considered well- engineered 30 years from now.
Thanks for the nice ad from the past. On my first ever visit to Westlicht, the sign on an empty store next door says that “The Impossible Project” had moved 3 blocks away. After browsing the fine “Show place for Photography” I walked the 3 blocks and found the polaroid film store which showed all kinds of vintage polaroid cameras. Here are some snaps.
I miss your commentary on mirrorless cameras. I’ve just been learning how to use the Olympus EM-5. The 12-50 zoom that I purchased with the camera works reasonably well and the 45mm f1.8 is superb. I bought the 100-300 mm Panasonic and have found that it is very slow focusing and the EVF of the Oly reacts slowly to the zoom at the top end. I long for some good fast telephoto lenses for the micro 4/3 systems, May investigate the old Canon lenses for use with an adapter.
Gary E
Wow, that’s pretty cool! I didn’t know that add-on CPUs supported this feature. I’m guessing it’s exclusive to the model you have purchased?
Thanks in general for this series of posts about the D700 and manual-focus lenses! I’m using a D200 with a decent selection, but I’m using a Katz-eye screen with the traditional split-screen focusing.
A year later, I wonder if you’ve got your unit yet. Back then I was thinking about how one can achieve this with the technology at hand. This is the result of my crude experiment.
You can click on the thumbnails below the picture to change plane of focus. From there, it should not be a great leap to move the click area to parts of the picture itself.
Author’s note: I passed on the Lytro. Reports suggest it’s poorly implemented and image quality is low.
Should work fine on my hacked $130 Nook Color with Android 4 – but the mounting is awful.
Thomas – great information and just what I’m looking for. As a serious but amateur photographer I am wondering whether I can work with on-board graphics chips satisfactorily, or whether it is necessary to have a separate GPU board (not that they cost a lot). I run PS5 and Lightroom + DxO most the time. Do you have any recommendation on that? Also is it worth going over 8GB RAM if I’m not doing video stuff (although I might in the future). Any comments from you or FU Steve would be appreciated. Nice photos on your website too.
Regards
Colin
Author’s comment:
Hi, Colin.
Thanks for your kind words.
That’s a very timely question on integrated GPUs.
Until recently I would have said go with a separate board. However, the new IvyBridge Intel i5 and i7 CPUs which will be out in new MacBooks any day now, change that. based on my reading of Anandtech (a very reputable site with great CPU insights and knowledge) the GPU in IvyBridge is more than any still photographer needs. As usual, I would junk the stock fan and go with an aftermarket one – the Coolermaster 212 I use in my machines is but $30 or so.
Wait a while for the Hackintosh boards to explain how to enable the integrated GPU in a Hack. It usually takes a little while. The IvyBridge is just hitting the market here and I would go with the i5 ($50 less), and overclock it if you want i7 speeds. Another reason to get a better cooler. I have been running my SandyBridge (immediate predecessor to Ivy) 7/24 overclocked from 3.3 to 4gHz and it’s perfect. If you contemplate overclocking, be sure to het the ‘K’ version of the CPU – that means i5 3570K for the latest IvyBridge.
Price wise it’s a push. A Sandybridge and a decent GPU will run you $215 + $60. An IvyBridge will run you $250. the Ivy’s GPU is much improved over the3 one in the Sandybridge.
As for memory, don’t chintz. It;s so insanely cheap that 16gB makes sense for PS and LR. I notice a welcome speed increase going from 8 to 16. Will 8 suffice? yes. But the extra 8gB for, what, $50, is something you will appreciate. And don’t get 1333 RAM, go for 1600. That’s an instant 20% speed gain for pennies.
Thomas
I picked up a 135mm/3,5 AI – i.e. the model subsequent to this. It makes a great and pocketable 200mm (effective) lens for APS-C bodies. It is a cracking lens with beautiful bokeh, great sharpness and marvellous colours and is mechanically tip top despite its age – it looks like it was never used by its previous owner. For 32€ (ebay) the best piece of equipment I ever bought. Highly recommended!
My favorite is 4747, where I see the loving connection between father and son.
I read your posts every night, greatly enjoying both their technical and artistic aspects.
I am impressed with and enjoy your knowledge of art, culture and history, a real gentleman.
Thank you,
Paul
PS: I’d appreciate your comments on my work.
A remarkable work of art
Beautiful; thank you.
Gear can be an expensive hobby in itself 🙂
I am chuckling.
I just downloaded this new Kindle Single, thought you might be interested.
The Story of a Photograph: Walker Evans, Ellie Mae Burroughs, and the Great Depression (Kindle Singles)
Jerry L. Thompson (Author)
Average Customer Review: (1)
Auto-delivered wirelessly
$1.99
I bought one back in 1980, with my first camera an FG. Hated the FG, but I loved the lens.
Great writing, great pix, some at high noon. Yeah.
And thanks for Mdme Yevonde the other day: art deco at its finest.
Best wishes,
Paul
V is for Vent got my attention for composition, contrast and the interplay of shapes.
Then I noticed all those V words are in Romanian.
Paul
Beautiful.
This happens to be my son in law and grandson. So I’m not at all prejudiced. We are thrilled with this picture and the comments made. You have captured them both. They are as you see them. Bruce is a wonderful stay at home Dad. And Oliver is a happy guy who loves hanging out with Daddy.
Great writing. Well said.
hi Thomas, first of all, thanks very much for your review of this lens, I think so far, you are the only one that focus on the distortion of the lens quite details. So its very useful. Thanks again
2nd, i just have a quick question, what do you think of this lens for interior architecture? As im a bit worry about the distortion (and its impossible to find any examples since everybody is taking this lens outdoor). The reason being, I don’t want to spend time on every single photos to correct it in Lightroom (of course i can, but i rather not). So Im not sure how would it fair without correction? I shoot them in raw so the auto correct on the Olympus wouldnt help I guess. I dont need it to be very accurate, but usable without the users noticing much about the distortion.
the reason being im deciding between this and the Nikon 20mm for my Nikon system. As I have owned the 20mm in the past I know it was exceptional well in handling distortion, so so much better than my 24-70mm at 24@. So i know i do have the results i want from the Nikon, but I try not to bring my heavy Nikon to assignments when i don’t have to. And obviously, the Olympus is gonna help for my travel purpose as well. Not only for work. So Its pretty hard to make a decision.
Thanks Thomas.
If you download and install the lens correction profile for the Olympus which I published here it will be automatically applied when you import files to LR, assuming you use RAW. Since I originally created these profiles I have learned how to include profiles for different focal lengths all in one file, and this is the profile I am making available in that link, so the LR or PS user no longer even needs to select the appropriate profile for the focal length used. Thus the additional work the user has to do to pick and apply the best profile is zero. The Olympus, with my lens correction profile, is an excellent lens for architecture, especially when used with the latest Panny sensors found in the GH2 and G3, which will render more detail with less noise than their other sensors.
I use the Nikkor Ai-S f/3.5 version but all the other MF ones (f/3.5 UD, f/4, f/2.8) have great reputations – and if you use FF (D3/4, D800/E, D700) will allow larger prints to be made than MFT. On APS-C the 20mm makes no sense, as it becomes an expensive 30mm and Panny’s latest sensors are close to APS-C in performance.
Finally, the MFT lens offers incredible compactness, a useful zoom range and a light, small outfit with any Panny or Oly body. The primary advantage of FF is if you need prints over 24″, as I have proved time and again. That means MFT works for most users. – Ed.
Hadn’t been on your site since the first of the year..I can’t believe how awesome it is. Beautiful photos, video, great info on your camera.
great stuff, thanks so much for your reply. I’m set with the Olympus, it still has the advantage of being a great zoom lens compare to the prime Nikon 20mm i was deciding. After all, I only shoot at F8 for most of my work (using that lens).
Thanks again, have a great day Thomas.
Cheers
LINH
These are stunning.
Great pointer on Maxwell. I am an Electrical Engineer by training, but one class I could not grasp then was Electromagnetic waves. I doubt that I can do better if I were to pick up Maxwell Equations again today. Perhaps too much iodine in my shrimp?
This is an amazing shot! I know exactly where you were standing. I have taken this same picture. I could see the Golden Gate bridge in the distance. But I didn’t believe it was possible to capture it from there. Obviously it was. My guess is that there are very few photographers who can do this! Congrats!
Hi , did you ever find out why the LCD won’t work when the remote is attached? Or a way to fix it?
No and Yes. If you fit this receiver and use the pass-through 2.5mm cable to connect the radio remote receiver, the LCD display functions normally. As the provided receiver 9-pin cable is not used in this configuratiom, this suggests the cable provided is incorrectly wired and is shutting down the rear LCD display. If you do not use the GPS receiver linked here, then I do not know of any other fix other than rewiring the provided 9-pin cable, which is likely impossible as the whole thing is sealed. – Ed.
Fantastic work !!
a 20mm/f3.5Ai and 35-70mm/f2.8 are the two lenses I use most !!!
You could also mention, that to use those profiles on .tiff files, one can easily convert them directly in Lightroom to DNG (using Export function).
thanks
Andy
Yeaa, I was wondering whether the twain tracks shall ever meet. My favorite MF lens for the GH2 is the Rokkor (also) 50mm f1.4 from my vintage Minolta of 1979. For low light video, the kit lens just does not cut it. For this short piece, I started shooting with the kit lens, but everything turned up dark. Immediately switched to f1.4 and the scenery came to light. The shallow DOF also worked to my advantage. Manual focusing with mechanical linkage is a joy compared to the focus-by-wire servo linkage of the kit lens. Like driving a manual tranny car. But you are right, for most well lit situations, the kit lens is hard to beat. Just curious, my MFT adapters allow you to focus slightly beyond infinity. Exactly to infinity would be preferable. Does yours do that too?
Yes, mine focus slightly past infinity. Additionally, lenses like the 500 Reflex Nikkor are made to focus way past infinity, to allow for thermal changes. – Ed.
I worked there for nearly 10 years from 1970 and watched as the union and the executives slowly bled the company to death. Every time a new contract was signed the union would wildcat strike while the executives would be stealing from our pension fund behind our backs. On hundreds of occasions I saw people working double and triple shifts but only producing about 15 minutes of work and sleeping or drunk the rest of the time. Fatalities were a daily event. They had vacation plans that were ridiculous. The senior hourly employees would get up to six months a year off for vacation. I loved working in the steel industry but it’s too bad places like this were rotted from the inside by greed.
Well said!
Terrific.
I’m in love with my 50mm 1.4
Was my first nikkor lens, and no matter what camera come to my hands, I just take off his lens and set my 1.4
Many thanks for the profiles.
Lightroom has had perspective correction (leaning verticals) since Lightroom 3, with a much better user interface than Photoshop to boot. There is really no reason to use PS, which is a good thing, since to paraphrase Borges, each successive version of Photoshop makes you long for the previous one (due to accreted bloat and bugs).
Horses for courses. There are lots of reasons to use PS, especially CS5 (Content Aware Fill) or CS6 (moving elements). It depends on your needs. But a doctrinaire sweeping statement like yours that there “…. is really no reason to use PS ….” in not helpful. Next time you want to accurately outline an element – right down to the finest wisps of hair – in a picture to change it, try doing that without Photoshop. Further the perspective correction in LR is very crude compared to what’s available in PS, as I have illustrated here before. Links download instructional videos. – Ed.
So what does LR4 do to the settings on a LR3-processed RAW? Does it translate them faithfully?
Once you ‘convert’ to LR4 both versions are retained – you can revert to LR3. The conversions are mostly the same but in high contrast snaps I find the default LR4 conversion has a better dynamic range. However, once you start using the sliders (renamed in LR4) the ability to recover highlights and enhance shadows is significantly greater. The underlying RAW file remains unchanged, of course. – Ed.
Also, have you noticed whether LR4 is better in handling high-ISO noise?
No. I found the big jump in noise handling was in going from LR2 to LR3 which brought far better retention of detailed when trying to eliminate noise. ‘Smearing’ was largely gone. LR4 seems unchanged in that respect from LR3, judging from G1 and G3 originals at ISO 1600 – Ed.
Thanks for the very useful info. I have a 100Plus and while I am having different issues to what you describe I was still able to use a lot of this information.
Definitely black and white. The colors are kind of flat for my taste. But the black and white really works and emphasizes the great geometry and shapes in the shot.
So I’ve upgraded to LR4 from LR3.
Sound move – Ed.
Dear Sir, Thank you so much for this journal entry on the Linhof S168 tripod. I’ve been looking for a tripod and exploring the vintage models on eBay, mostly of the Gitzo persuasion. But a photo forum suggested the name Linhof and I found about a half dozen possibilities, that is under $300.00. One listing said the Linhof tripod they were offering, model S168, extended to 80″ which I thought must be a typo (maybe 60″?). So I searched and found you and the Linhof S168. Very happy I did. Your picture, wrestling with this tripod, convinced me that this was the tripod for my 6’5″. The height, along with all its other virtues you extolled, made me hurry back and make the purchase. The seller even has the original box. I will certainly take your advice and find a ball and socket head to replace the “amateur pan tilt head”. I’m looking at the Novoflex Mini Magic. With that combination, like you, I’ll have a companion for life – or perhaps beyond. Sincerely yours, Kim
After using LR4 on about 60 photographs, my observations:
1. Overall LR4 Develop is improved over LR3.
2. I find I have to dial up the clarity by a few compared to LR3 to get the same look.
3. I sometimes wish the lens corrections was the second item on the workflow after white balance. This is because lens corrections fixes vignetting which makes the photograph brighter and I have to visit the other controls again.
Thomas,
This is one of the funniest reviews I have read. And very useful too, covering not just the Kindle but a host of other subjects too. Thank you very much for brightening up a dull Monday morning in the UK.
Jay
works great on my d3100. i started with a t mount adapter on ebay to check out the chip. i loved it. i have modified 2 glue ons so far. i take note of the back of the lens if it dosent have the ledge im not messin with it, for now. thanks for the info. be blessed
Are there any Thunderbolt peripherals where the advantage of Thunderbolt is painfully obvious over the competition? Or will Thunderbolt be the technically superior option that goes the way of Firewire?
None that I can find at affordable prices, and the cables are wildly expensive. For storage USB3 will do, and for displays only the criminally insane will pay $1000 for AAPL’s glossy ones with poor gamut. Further, PCs compete on price, not features, so don’t look for competition to bring down prices, as few are adopting this technology – Ed.
What about the 11″ screen size when lightroom panels are displayed. Is there still enough room for the photo or do you have to set the panels to hide automatically (which i dislike)?
It’s tight. I hide them, but manually – F5, F7 and F8. Ed.
Thanks for posting your observations, it’s super helpful to get an idea of Lightroom performance on the new 2012 MBA. I perfer the air size over the new retina 15, the price helps too.
I noticed a minor typo for raw files sizes, should be MB.
Thanks – fixed. Ed.
Have the latest version (chrome ring) and love it. Would never sell it!
You are a life saver – well, okay, not actually, but certainly a SANITY saver. I, too, am an amateur who LOVES my D90R, except when I HATE it! It does go from perfect to dysfunctional in a heartbeat. I have learned to stockpile one each of the printheads. Your tips for fixing the thing have come in handy on a number of occasions. Thank you, thank you!
I wonder what your experience has been with the “new, improved, fast drying” HP Premium Plus Satin paper. It has been the only paper I have used for photo projects for years, but I am distraught with the new version. The color does not match my screen (tends to green) and fades within months. I tried in vain to talk with HP-no-English-support and that was just an exercise in futility. I quickly ordered a couple of rolls of the 18 x 50″ paper, as this does not seem to be “new and improved” yet. Do you have any alternatives for letter size paper to recommend?
I have switched to HP Glossy so I’m afraid I have no experience of the new HP Satin. – Ed.
A triumph indeed, and one whose significance is shared by this armchair space traveller who missed the announcement when it happened due to the news coverage being swamped by some sporting event or other that appears to be taking place over here in the UK.
Pulgas means fleas in English. I wonder why did they pick this name.
Mountain Lion requires 64-bit hardware to install, but that has no bearing on running 32-bit apps (Office 2011, anyone?)
There’s no ’64 bit only’ hurdle, software-wise.
You mention that after installing the yellow tube that you went through the priming sequence. Can you please tell me what that is. I’ve had printhead problems with my hp 130 since it came out of the box. I have no less than 10 printheads which are probably fine but hp has replaced to shut me up. Each time that was their fix. 20 days prior to warranty expiration they finally sent out a service tech. Who was great, but, 30 days after his visit the machine started the same mess. Guess what, now without payment they won’t help because my machine is out of warranty. Sorriest bunch of thugs I’ve ever dealt with. After writing to the chairman of the board for hp they did call me and tell me that the service tech must have forgotten to prime the machine—which I don’t believe, because the machine worked fine for 30 days. Anyhooo, hp had me go through a series of head standing, cord unplugging while at the same time pushing button process. By which you needed to be a 3 handed person with contortionistic tendancies to manover. At any rate—it worked and my machine has functioned perfectly since up til about 3 weeks ago. I suspect the machine has lost it’s prime as I am a low volume user. I think that may be the problem with the yellow is that is has a tendancy to loose it’s prime more easily. Don’t know, I’m obviously not as versed as you on these little monsters but, could you please put up the button pushing recipe for priming. Best Regards, Ginger, AR
Ginger –
I leave mine plugged in (which keeps the head warmer on) and do not need to prime even after months of non-use.
Download the service manual linked here. Go to pages 4-2 and 4-8.
Keep the manual – it’s well written and invaluable for, as you have already confirmed, the worst run Fortune 100 company with its annual CEO changes sure as hell is not going to help you. This was a great comnpany when I was a Mech Eng student (UC London, class of ’73) but of course some jerk-off sold the one great thing they had going – their measurement and instrumentation business.
Mercifully all parts remain easily available – the links you need are here. The worst case may be you have clogged feed tubes or bad heads. But you should only need to prime new feed lines once.
– Ed.
Thank you. After two evenings of surfing HP’s diagnostic services and customer support (accurately and evocatively described above) I still did not know I could clean my own printhead.
Great stuff! We’ve directed our readers to your blog. =)
Thank you very much! This cuts it for me; I’ll soon be happily on my way to get a high-end 11″ MBA. Keep the reviews coming, please!
hello Thomas
no retina? I’d figure retina is more useful on a smaller screen than on a big one. I hold my 4S iphone closer than I do my iPad2, and the two feel the same in image quality at their natural reading distances. Guess I’d be holding the Mini somewhere in between? Not that I will, my product lifecycle is four years si I’ll be there for, what, the iPad5?
The problem with the Retina Display is twofold – cost and production. Cost would make it uncompetitive and right now manufacturers are not geared up for the sort of volume the iPad Mini will command – Ed.
On professional sports, and even overhyped non- professional sports, I’m in complete agreement with you. The stakes to the athletes and/or the industry of gambling on sports results are so high that widespread cheating is a necessary outcome. If there is significant gambling money on auto racing, I don’t think it can be immune to prearranged outcomes.
Regarding patents, I agree that the patent holder rights should be protected. On the other hand especially in the space of software and business process patents, I think too much is granted patents. For instance, how unobvoius is it that one can have text-to-speech software read email and put a voice message in your voice messages? I believe this kind of thing has been granted a patent.
spot on, Thomas
hard to disagree with you
especially re BMW’s iDrive. Does not deserve the i before the Drive. As much as I love the drive, I can’t fathom the i…
having said all of the above, have you ever tried the shameful Android interface?
with foes like that, Apple can rest for a while longer…
A related problem with Android is the sheer number of versions of the OS out there, further crippled by the fact that many handset makers refuse to allow installation of the latest version. This is their way of forcing hardware upgrades, whereas iOS6 will be installable on iPhones all the way back to the 3GS. So much for the argument that Apple forces planned obsolescence on users. In reality, this is a trick used by Android handset manufacturers.
the iPad2 is already left behind? retina has become a must? shame…
Well I for one won’t be upgrading any time soon.
But hopefully my recent Retina purchase will pay for one or two of Winston’s classes at Harvard 🙂
The pano mode is certainly impressive – a lot more so than Apple Maps!
It seems that if you live in Scotland you are hopelessly lost, with most of it being covered in cloud…come back Steve, all is forgiven! (well, almost all).
OK, maybe a few minutes, anyway:
There’s a rumored new feature in iOS7 which will greatly enhance maps.
All southern states will be missing.
That idyllic place on the banks of the Charles River.
Ah, Santo, but those are special, and taken with my all time favorite lens, the 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor.
Part 2 please!
I second the above comment on the Gandhi image. I must say, you were clearly on quite a tear during that walk, this is a pretty remarkable post!
I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to write this blog post and document the process. My HP 130 was in enforced cold storage (I really had no choice) and of course threw the largest fit when I turned it back on. Thanks to your post and the brilliant manual I identified the problem, found parts and repaired it. Now it’s running well and happily ensconced in it’s new position and will not get turned off.
Best wishes Rosie
Who was responsible for releasing Apple Maps before its time? That was a serious goof-up.
A weak CEO who was steamrollered by a strong subordinate he could not control.
What is Apple’s product design to production time for products like the iphone 5, ipad mini? Either Apple is very fast or else I think these designs were on the roadmap while Steve Jobs was around.
It is certain that Jobs reversed himself on small tablets and approved the Mini – one of his henchmen has stated this. Time to market for the Mini is very low as there is zero innovation in the product. The iPhone 5 is less clear as the in-glass capacitive touch screen is a very recent development, though that suggests a very short design period. Other than the display there is no innovation in iPhone 5. A part-alloy rear replacing a glass one is hardly innovative – iPhone 1 had a part-alloy back. The reason that the rear of the iPhone 5 is not all alloy is to confer enhanced radio transparency, so glass is used like in the iPhone 4/4S. iPhones 1, 3G and 3GS used a plastic strip (1) or all plastic (3G/GS) for the same reason.
Thus a solid argument can be made that AAPL’s blow out year was nothing more than a reflection of Jobs’s coattails. Giving credit to Cook is mistaken, IMO. Another reason to doubt that the right person was chosen as CEO. Innovation? How about Siri and Maps? Both will be fixed soon enough but the guy responsible was just fired.
You are a GENIUS! HP Should PAY you for your work. This printer has been driving me crazy for the longest time. And you are correct. When you call HP they agree to HELP for Credit Card Payment. While they 100% DO take the Payment THEY DON’T 100% HELP! One time I was told by a tech, “If I need the prints so badly I should have bought one of their better printers.” I was fuming. At least you told us how to use the confounded control panel.
About Apple Maps, without knowing anything about Apple, I’d have guessed the following. Google potentially knows the location at each instant of anyone using Google maps, and also what they search for and when, and this is valuable information, perhaps an annual billion dollar revenue stream, which can be sold to marketers, advertisers, etc. (The more you can tie the location information into demographics, social media circles of influence, interests – gleaned from keywords in email, for instance – and so on, the more valuable this information is.)
So it seems to me that corporate strategy said, shut this competitor’s advantage down, and insisted on doing it by such-and-such date even though the engineers probably advised that the Apple maps was not ready for prime time. Therefore on the face of it, I would guess it was the corporate types twisting the arms of the software guys, rather than a weak CEO unable to contain a strong software chief. Of course, Apple is not a normal company, and I have no insight into how decisions are actually made there. In any other company, I think the story I have narrated would be close to the truth.
Yes, maybe the reviewers didn’t mention flares because it wasn’t an issue for them. I got a 20mm lens and the technical quality of shots cannot match those on flickr using the same lens on the same gf1 body. There are flares on nightshots everywhere on streetlights, car lights, traffic lights. It makes the photograph unusable. If there is a quality control issue then who is going to say so ?
I doubt it’s QC. Just poor design and a corrupted ‘review’ cadre, beholden to Panny’s big bucks.
I beg to differ on the lens hood comment. Even the Leica Summarit 75mm benefits a lot from a hood against veiling glare. I don’t have the money for the APO-Summicron though.
US iphone outpaces android again:
http://tech.fortune.cnn.com/2012/11/27/iphone-overtakes-android-us-kantar/?source=yahoo_quote
Great father & son picture. If I am not mistaken the car belongs to the Orient Express which Hercule Poirot once rode. The letters on the wagon (and on the center emblem) reads: “Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits et des Grands Express Europaens.” Amtrak it is not.
The opportunity met the prepared photographer!
Dear Thomas. Thank you for this most informative article. I’ve had such a hard time seperating fact from fiction. This compact lens is just what I need. I wasn’t convinced a mirror lens could give reasonable results. Now that I’m better informed, I can forget about those large (and expensive) prime lenses. Most of my work is for travel/adventure magazines so I don’t need to make large fine art prints. The ability to have this handy little lens with me at all times opens a whole new realm of possibilities. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Richard –
Thanks for the kind words. I also ran a companion piece addressing CPU installation and use – see the Sitemap. The CPU adds a lot, not least the ability to use shutter block (shutter release only available when the focus rectangle is lit, which helps with what is a hard to focus lens) and the ability to automatically invoke my lens correction profile on import to LR r PS.
One of the challenges in getting the best out of this fine optic is the need to resist using it handheld. f/8 will not get you fast shutter speeds and you really have to use the focus confirmation light for critical focus, as screen focus does not cut it. The CPU, once installed, will also permit you to adjust the point at which the confirmation light illuminates for absolutely critical focus.
Tuning the CPU for optimal focus is also addressed here – see the Sitemap.
As regards focus confirmation, Nikon states it works down to f/5.6 but I find it’s fine on my D700 at the stated f/8 aperture of the Reflex Nikkor. On the other hand, the focus confirmation light in my older D2x absolutely refuses to work with the lens, so you may want to check it on your body of choice before committing to purchase.
Thanks for this blog, it’s very helpfull. After six years of just having problems with printheads (replaced and solved) I’ve jus arrive to the yellow tube problem (after trying to solve it, now is yellow and cyan problem cause I used a very old and wasted cyan cartridge to purge. I think it has more to do with a loss of watertightness than with a clog that is the next consecuence. Why, and specially where is originated, and why can’t be easily solved with a purge, which by the way, didn’t make any mess in my hp 130, is what I’m investigating now before spending my last 50 euros in a new tubes assembly. Any suggestions ? I’ll keep informed but dont know if it’s worth, cause new hp 111 are now very, very cheap About 580 € and come with a complete set of 4 cartridges and printheads that are 320 € in consumables.
Thanks again.
http://www.delex.es/plotters-hp-designjet/hp-designjet-111.html?gclid=CLiS94DjobQCFYXLtAodrVUAIQ
Guillermo – A couple of thoughts. The HP30/90/130 are 6 color dye printers, need compatible paper which is getting harder to find, and deliver the best blacks in the business. The HP111 is a 4 color pigment printer (the colors dry on the surface rather than being absorbed by the paper), can use a far broader range of papers which are easy to find but you really want to see some prints before you spend $1,000 on one. Just because the consumables are included does not make the HP111 a good buy. The way I see it you can find out if your DJ130 still works for 50 € or spend 580 € on an unknown quantity. The results I have seen from the latest 12 ink Epsons are no better than those from my DJ90. I have not seen output from the HP111 so cannot comment.
I also have serious concerns about HP as a business. It has to be the worst managed large company in the world. One day they are getting out of printers and PCs, the next day they have a new CEO, the third day they are litigating to cover up for their mistakes. It’s a rudderless ship, too late to mobile, stuck in low margin commoditized and dying businesses (PCs and printers), they have completely missed the tablet revolution, etc. It’s hard to see this company surviving and it has meanwhile garnered a reputation for some of the worst customer service on the planet. I speak from personal experience. There is no scenario on earth where I would call HP for help with anything nor would I buy anything from HP again. Once my DJ90 becomes uneconomical to fix I’ll be getting the latest Epson.
Take a good hard look at the official HP Maintenance Manual to which I link above. It is exceptionally good and has very detailed diagnostics which might help get your DJ130 fully functional again. What do you have to lose?
From the x-rite site I downloaded the free i1ProfilerD2LionEdition.
It was published in november 2011 I think.
X-rite states that they will support OS Lion, but that Mountainlion was not tested and future OS versions will not be supported.
HTH
Willem
Go to http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=788&Action=support&SupportID=5610 at X-Rite’s site and you will find they state:
“Please note that while we do not anticipate any problems, i1ProfilerD2LionEdition software used with either the i1DisplayLT or the i1Display2 has NOT been fully tested on Mac OS X 10.8 (Mountain Lion). X-Rite DOES NOT provide support for i1Profiler D2LionEdition on Mac OSX 10.8 (Mountain Lion) but will continue to support this product on OSX 10.7 (Lion).”
I have had no problems running the Lion version on 10.8.2 Mountain Lion so far with my i1Display2, but X-Rite’s sloth just confirms that what the colorimeter market needs is some strong competition. – Ed.
I have the MFT Panasonic 1.7 20 and 2.5 14 mm. The last one with sunlens hd pro 1 uv filter from Japan with hood. For some years on the GF 1, now bought the DMC-G3. I made excellent pictures for snapshots/consumer use and cannot confirm the bad experience of the review.
Those are very small pancake lenses. It is unfair to compare them to regular primes. For landscapes and serious pictures I use Leica-R lenses adapted; or the Olympus 11-26 mm FT with the adapter from Olympus having fast autofocus on the DMC-G3. I am a very happy user of the compact Panasonics with broad experience over many brands incl. FF Canon and Nikon to allow me this judgement.
The fact remains that this lens is marketed as a high quality prime and, based on my experience, simply cannot be recommended for demanding street snapping. The flare is atrocious and the slow focusing is even worse. Less demanding users may find those are not drawbacks, but I do not write this blog with such users in mind.
The Panasonic site refers to the lens’s ‘…. superb optical performance ….’ as the excerpt below confirms. Their words – most certainly not mine. – Ed.
Thomas,
Once again, no good deed goes unpunished. I’m sorry to hear you were the recipient of the city’s ingratitude. Don’t let it put a dent in your generous spirit. I for one (of many, I suspect) would have enjoyed your continued documentation of this project. Thanks for posting your excellent preliminary snaps. Richard
What a great way to start the new year: capturing the character of some of our less fortunate brothers in black and white, in a wonderfully rich tonal scale.
Yes, brothers: today I was shooting at Laguna Beach, one of my favorite places this time of the year, and I was called brother by one. It felt good.
The richness of the midtone range brings out the deep humanity of the subjects, and helps the viewer relate to their state of mind.
I believe the smiles and optimism on their faces is not related to the recent donation (nobody can “buy” that look), but it reflects the hope induced by the stories exchanged with the photographer.
I have this lens for use on a D200, and although mine is not very minty it works well enough. I’m surprised it’s so flare-resistant for being so old
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gerikson/tags/nikkorh28mmf35/
I actually have a 28-50-75 collection in f/3.5 for DX, the 18/3.5, 28/3.5 and 55/3.5.
This is like going to the new Bond movie :). 🙂
This video will show some of the potential of such a camera for a still photographer.
I know its a pretty old article, but could you add some details about the “driver needed for Air Display”? Just bought the app on the app store and tried to install the application on my hackintosh, but the installer keeps telling me that the installation failed. Any ideas?
Have you tried running the app despite the message?
Very nice.
Mine required quite a bit of focus adjust (-18, as confirmed using Reikan FoCal) on a D600 but has otherwise been stellar. I might get the USB dock (which will work with Macs) so that I can adjust focus on the lens and not the body, but that’s mostly aesthetic (I can set focus adjust to close to 0 in the body).
I tried it on my D90 + Nikkor-S Auto 50mm f/1.4 S/N 877156. I got to programming menu (method 1-6-1), then set up the f/1.4. Now it reports apperture f/1.4 to the camera but no chance getting to programming menu. Ok, I bought 2 pcs of chip so second try: (1) programming min apperture f/16 – ok. (2) Programming focus length – ok. Taking photos – seemed to report correct values. (3) Then setting max apperture to f/1.4. IT seemed to be successful, but again in the same status as in first try. The only change is it reports 50mm fucus length. No chance to get back to programming menu and also doesn’t respond to changing apperture in M mode on camera!
Is there any bug? Can I reset chip somehow now?
I had the same problem…..especially in low light and using focus assist from my SB910 flash – the Nikon lenses were perfect – the sigma 35mm was not!
if you could kindly make a video of using this app as for drawing on a PC, that would be so nice of ya
Can’t agree more! Discovered him in an Istanbul book store and never stopped admiring him since. He has one of the most inspiring subjects ever on his doorstep, Turkey’s street and people, and he can transport you in their midst with a force that few others can match.
And thanks for pointing to 121clicks, interesting community
Best, Giovanni
I’m having problems programming the cpu chip mounted on my 35 f2 AI with a D90. I have successfully installed about 4 cpu chips before. It seems like the body does not recognize the cpu at all. I even held the chip directly to the body contacts to see if a “2.8” appeared. Nothing. I haven’t had this problem before. I tested two cpus with the same results. Am I missing something? The comments from mm3 makes me wonder if there is a qc issue here.
That really does rather sound like a bad batch of CPUs. I have done maybe 20 lenses and not a bad one yet. I would suggest you try another body, if possible, to be sure. – Ed.
Question: the profile I downloaded is “NIKON D700 (20.0 mm f3.5) – RAW.lcp” – does this mean it is appropriate only for D700? I have a different FX body.
Thank you for compiling this comprehensive set of great older lenses, Thomas.
I have added an explanatory paragraph, above. The profile is recognized by lens focal length and maximum aperture, not by the camera body name in the profile. This means these profiles will work on all FX (full frame) and DX (APS-C cropped frame) Nikon digital bodies. – Ed.
Thomas,
I bought the AI version of this lens on ebay last week, and received it yesterday. So far, it’s pretty sweet.
Some pluses which motivated me, besides focal length and price ($200):
– Nearest focus distance of about 8-10″
– Very sharp
– Lightweight
– Good rendering of orthogonality / minimal distortion
Some minuses:
– There’s CA, mostly noticeable in the corners, especially wide-open
– Distant subjects lose fine detail (my primary body is D800E). I tested on tripod. Near detail is quite good.
Bjorn Rorslett gave it thumbs-up for near subjects.
I work in macro quite a lot, so my plan is to try the 20/3.5 with the K1 ring, for wide-angle macro work, see how that goes. I’d like to try something like this, but don’t know if it’s possible.
Kevin
Your lens-to-subject distance may be very tight with so wide a lens in macro mode; maybe try reversing it with the appropriate lens reversing ring to see if that improves matters. Lighting gets pretty tricky with ultra-wides in macro mode – Ed.
Lovely picture and and the Mercedes looks as solid as the buildings. It is a shame later models are not as elegant.
… and a RHD Benz at that. Oh wait, mirror image or vertical flip?
I Shot the Sigma during a boxing match last week in low light conditions. I pre-ordered from BnH. I used this lens as If I was using my normal Nikon lenses in low light situations. Simply put the Sigma nailed the shot every time on my D700. I did not have to fine tune or anything. My Sigma 35mm/1.4 lens is excellent right out the box! See some of my shots here. My shooting style is very quick and snapshot journalistic style. Here are my samples.
Thomas, you are a great photographer, who knows how to capture the soul of your subjects. And a great writer too…
Let me guess: will Victor will get the first one?
Thanks! He received his print yesterday. The look on his face was worth it – Ed. .
Great optic. I’ve sold my copy to finance a D700 though… I’m intrigued that it’s useful on FF, but still think I’ll try to find a decent copy of the old 35/1.4 for FX.
Thank you for sharing this excellent tutorial. It is the best I have read.
I thought I was the only person with this issue. Low light portraits at f1.4, when I focus on the closer eye, most of the time the focus will go to the back eye. I am not sure what’s going on or if it is fixable. I am dissapointed.
Playing with AF fine tune does not fix the problem, as it is rather inconsistent.
Nice.
I just tried on a 28mm series E lens, using a custom made laser-cut placement jig (I have a laser cutter so why not!) and just d/s taped for now. I was programming on a D40x, which worked fine but set the focus mode to MF (no lever, and AF-C didn’t work) and no “job nr” flashing anywhere I saw. My only other mistake was to accidentally set the lens aperture control, the “60” option, but I then reset and started again, no problem.
Other than that, I started by mistakenly trying a 1″,1/6″,1″ pattern, and not the proper 1″,6″,1″ pattern. I also find that I have to be careful putting the lens in too, although I haven’t quite figured out why, it might be the laser cut placement jig or maybe the contacts are just out a touch too far.
Oh, and I have to dial +0.7 EV to get good exposure, but otherwise it seems consistent and everything works great. On the D40, setting the MF focus type allows the shutter to fire when you press, regardless of focus lock, and AFS focus mode allows it to fire only when in focus (with the same press/turn for focus/fire behaviour as described here).
Awesome!
Along with everyone else that has taken the time to write, I am grateful for your time to write and maintain this blog. I love my DJ130. I’ve been using it for architectural drawings since 2005 when I started by own business. It has rarely failed me, but after a rough cross country move from New England my printing baby has shown up worse for wear. Downloading the manual was a treat as now I have available the tools to allow some DIY repair. My issue right now is ink delivery. To make matters worse, the “Services” tab within the Printing Preferences menu has grayed out the “Status of my Printer” and “Calibrate Color” tabs. Into the manual I go…….
Well said. Agree totally. I”m in the same position myself at moment.
Bet there be something out of china soon. Hong Kong will have it.
I wanted GPS on my Nikon D300s. Not going to pay £200 + that Nikon wanted. Got far superior system with no wires. Holux M – 1000c GPS logger with Bluetooth. That sits in my
pocket or camera bag with a Aokatec AK – 4N2 bluetooth adaptor that connects to the 10 pin connector on the front of the D300s. Works great. Recommend.
I also got remote control shutter with 100m range by Phottix.
All the above gadgets only cost £115. They never let me down. Check them out or email me for details.
The use of an Aokatech GPS receiver and a remote data logger is addressed at length here. An update appears here.
Just wanted to let you and your readers know that this lens works beautifully on my Canon 60D. Because of the 1.6 crop, this lens is transformed into an amazingly compact, 800mm! This also eliminates any noticable light fall off in the corners. With the Nikon-to-Canon adapter from Photo-diox I have perfect (light and audio) focus conformation.
Hello everybody,
thank you very much for this article, I would like to share my experience with you .
I have demounted whole tube system like in this article is described, but I did not order the new one (money, time, impatience) but I have rinsed it by water with syringe.
The old ink was hard like stone at many places so just pressure of water from the syringe was not enought.
So i pulled out yellow transparenttube from rubber cover and massage of hardened places while overpressure and underpressure of water helped. All hardened places were realesed in 30 seconds. Then I rinsed whole system by water and printer goes again well.
Thomas, you’re right. A first class lens! IMHO, better than the 28/2.8
This is all really interesting but I’m still trying to figure how to get my DJ90 apart. Mainly the right side, cover and sides etc. I’m pretty good mechanically but not brave enough to go where I’ve never been at the cost of breaking something. so if you could tell me how to access the ink and driver right side so that I can remove the ink tubes I would be most appreciative.
Thanks.
Download the factory manual referenced at the end of this article. It includes step-by-step dismantling instructions. See page 7-5 and following. – Ed.
I tried F100, F801s and F601. Everything goes smoothly on F100 if I follow your guide. I just have two notes.
Body goes to stand-by mode shortly after exposure so I have to half-press shutter shortly after 1-6-1 (1-5-1 works too) initial exposure otherwise the body asleeps before chip enters programming mode (or body ignores it). After this half-press the meter switch of time preset by CSM 15 works. The same is valid for parameter selection 1s shot. I kept half-pressing the shutter as a mad because I didn’t want to loose programming mode specialy when setting minimum aperture as it takes long time.
After I preset minimum aperture, its value on display changes to value selected by aperture selection dial on the body. I was confused and I reset and re-programed the chip three times before I revealed it. I never set aperture by dial, only with aperture ring on a lens so it didn’t come into my mind. In addition I have CSM 22 set to lens so I really had a pinch of panic.
Chip seems to be incompatible with F601 and F801s (N6006, N8008). F601 looks like switched off when lens is mounted. F801s looks like going off when I press the shutter if the lens is monted when camera is switched off. If the lens is mounted when camera is switched on, then I am able to make a shot but the camera ignores signal from the lens and in addition doesn’t meter. It is bad for me – I cannot have a lens which cannot be used on some bodies. So far I stay with temporarily mounted chip with double sided tape – no epoxy here.
One advantage which is not mentioned in Part I – chipped MF lens shows actual aperture in viewfinder even if it is controlled via ring on the lens – exciting! Thank you – I have updated Part I to state this. – Ed.
We have a Photographica show here in Boston similar to this. http://vimeo.com/41233223 . Good place to browse and stroll but prices are not necessarily better.. I did get a nice Rolleiflex leather strap replacement for $1.
I spoke with HP tech support today. While they’re still working on the maintenance utility for OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion, the utility for 10.7 works fine for Mac. This is very encouraging Doug, thank you. But frankly, this is HP, so I’ll believe it when I see it on OS 10.8. – Ed.
I cannot thank you enough for this. Have a 35/f2 Nikkor-O that I LOVE, and basically lived on my D40x. I was kinda sad when I got my D7000 and realized I couldn’t use it unless I modified it. Was going to send it out till I saw this. 20 minutes worth of work and I have my little friend back. Thanks man!
Dear Thomas, first of all, thanks for the fantastic article! Just bought the chip from ebay to equip my Nikkor 50 f1.8 or my Sankor pre-AI 135 f2.8. This last one works already w/o mods on my D70 (distance from the bayonet and lens body is greater than nikon’s), but I will have to glue a small piece of plastic to let it engage the lever of minimum aperture on the body…
The question is about focusing: chip docs says: “On the screen you will also find highlighted spots that got into focus area” – does that mean that I will have focus confirmation from the pharentesis [ ] on the screen center, like it happens in AF, or just from the green dot at the left bottom of the internal lcd?
The behavior of the focus brackets/rectangle differs between the three bodies I have tried – the D700, D3x and D2x. None flash the focus brackets/rectangle when sharp focus is attained with an MF lens, whereas the D700 and D3x (but not the D2x) flash the focus rectangle with AF Nikkors. The focus brackets of the D2x remain unlit with chipped MF lenses. As I am not familiar with the D70 I cannot answer your question, but suggest that you take the painless step of installing the CPU with double sided tape, program it as explained above and test. I can confirm that all three bodies I have tried activate the lower left green focus diode and arrows correctly.
The piece you need to glue on the rear of the aperture ring of the Sankor telegraphs maximum aperture, not minimum. Nothing is needed for minimum aperture – the rotation of the aperture ring will communicate that at its limit. To see where to glue that piece, read this.- Ed.
Thanks Thomas for your fast reply. I did read your article on AI modification: yes, I meant maximum aperture… As for the brackets, I suspect they will remain unlit with MF lens; they flash with AF lens. The green dot is already active using MF: no arrows on D70 – it is just distracting from the scene becouse is in the left corner.
As soon as I have the chip I will try and report. Great work!
I have been considering the purchase of a HP Designjet 130, would you recommend this printer?
Check my Printing articles – see the Sitemap above.
If you are a Mac user you really must be using a Snow Leopard or earlier OS machine as anything later will not give you access to HP’s online diagnostic app. While you can run paper, ink and head usage diagnostics using just the control panel on the printer, failed ink head diagnostics can only be run using HP’s online application, which does not run with OS X Lion or Mountain Lion. You need Snow Leopard or earlier with Rosetta, or an old PPC G3/4/5 Mac. Windows is not an issue best as I know, but I do not use it.
Likewise, if you want to use the DJ’s built-in colorimeter to make your own paper profiles (yes, it has one, though I find paper manufacturers’ profiles are more accurate) you must have access to the online utility on HP’s site.
Buying new gets you a 24″ printer for $1200, half the price of any other of like quality. But HP’s support is worthless, so the ‘new premium’ cannot be realized effectively.
Buy used only if you can get the seller to run the diagnostic pages I illustrate in the above link. That will tell you if it’s a printing shop beater (tens of thousands of prints) or an amateur’s baby (a couple thousand). If the seller cannot provide that, move to another.
Worst case ‘fix up’ cost for a printer which has been in long term storage – meaning the heads and feed tubes are clogged and the inks old is:
So for a used stored one used your worst sunk repair cost is $500, not cheap and no guarantees, which means you probably do not want to pay more than $200 for one without current diagnostic reports.
I believe the best bet is a lightly used one which has not been stored and which you can see working. Local pick-up is greatly preferred to risking UPS or FedEx TLC. I would pay $400-500 for a good one. Once unplugged and stored, these clog as the head warmer is off. If plugged in (but not on – fan noise) mine never clogs, even with 6m between uses. The head warmer consumes a few watts and prevents the inik solidifying in the heads and feed tubes. So if you get one, do not unplug it – s small green LED on the control panel shows the head warmer is on.
Parts are easily obtained – HP made a lot of these machines for commercial use. Roll paper (there’s a roll paper version if that’s your thing) is easily available. Until I conclude my tests on fading of aftermarket papers (3-4m hence) you really should use HP Premium Glossy or Matte paper which is formulated to be fade free with those papers. You cannot just use any old paper, most are not suited to the DJ 30/90/130 which use dye inks not pigments.
For roll paper equipped versions the paper cutting knife which is built in to all DJs will come into action. The roll paper versions are distinguised by the suffix ‘r’ in the name – e.g. 130r. Ethernet network versions have the suffix ‘n’, so a 130nr would be the network, roll paper version. Roll paper holders can be fitted to any DJ90 or DJ130, are ridiculously expensive (hundreds of dollars for a rod and a couple of brackets) and best made at home from some parts from the hardware store and a leavening of ingenuity, for under $20.
HP has discontinued cut sheets in large sizes (13″ x 19″ and 18″ x 24″) though some supplies remain out there. Roll paper remains easily available, though I hate it because it’s a pig to work with – curl, difficulty of switching sizes, tricky to load, more clearance needed behind printer, etc.
Ink supplies and printheads are not an issue. Many of these printers remain in printshop service using rolls, and HP makes good money on inks and heads, so they keep making them.
So a qualified ‘Yes’ to your question with many caveats.
I suggest you take some time and read through my Printing link in the Sitemap above which has 7 years of discovery on my DJ90 (functionally identical to the DJ130 except for the 18″ vs. 24″ width) clearly set forth, pluses and minuses.
I love mine – finest blacks in the business – and I do not lust for anything else at any price.
New alternatives in wide carriage? Epson seem to have a lot of ink clogging issues and the printhead is integrated – no one-head-per-ink technology, unlike the DJ series. It costs as much to replace as a new $3,000 printer making the whole thing questionable. But I am repeating hearsay, not stating personal experience.
Canon I know little about.
The current HP 3200 uses pigments, not dyes, so a far greater paper choice is available to you, uses discrete print heads so cheap to replace when one blows, has very large capacity ink cartridges and is very frugal with ink like the DJ130, and even has a built in colorimeter for making your own paper profiles! But it costs almost $4,000 and once again when you call for help you will be transferred to a non-English speaking nation. Still, that’s what I would probably buy today if I needed 24″ or 44″ much as I detest everything about the HP of today from its C Suite and board of directors on down to its stock.
Ed.
It’s not the camera, it’s the eye of the photographer, and choosing the right light.
Wonderful images; thank you Thomas for sharing them. The Rollei nostalgia is the icing on the cake.
Thank you for confirming that David Hemmings (aka Thomas) used the 85mm f1.8 H auto Nikkor on his Nikon F in Blowup. I had suspected it for a while. However, others have suggested that it was the 50mm f1.4 lens. Looking at pix of the Hemmings lens, I notice that there is no writing inside the lens, as there would be if it was the 50 f2 or f1.4. You will see that the 85 has the writing around the outer of the filter ring – like the 28mm f3.5/ 35mm f2 lenses to name a couple from the 1960s. I use all these lens and others on my 3 Nikon F Photomic FTN bodies (1 black) and I derive so much pleasure from the quality of build, just the feel of them. Digital? I’m not bright enough!
David – I actually ran the movie and froze the frame in the studio scene with Veruschka to confirm that it was indeed the 85/1.8. Your point about the absence of writing on the inside periphery is also correct. Hemmings uses the no less splendid 50/1.4 Nikkor-S in the scenes in Maryon Park. You can easily recognize it, and the 85 would not have fit in his Koren-model Bentley Continental‘s glove box the way he inserts it, lens up! – Ed.
10.8.3 also fixed the problem with NEC’s Spectraview II – so now I can use it to calibrate my monitor!
I wouldn’t have been aware of 10.8.3 but for your post, so thank you!
Mine’s going back tomorrow.
In low light (tungsten) with Nikon SB900 it focusses perfectly okay in AF-S with centre focus point (i.e. with flash focus assist light).
In AF-C or without focus assist light it is a mile out and completely unusable (I rarely use the centre focus point which is the only way to use the focus assist light).
With no flash at all it focusses perfectly okay in that same low light.
In decent daylight it is stunning!
It seems therefore that it’s a problem between the Sigma lens and Nikon flash.
Hello,
Can you launch the last version of iMovie (under your hackintosh with the gtx 660 [NO TI]) and tell us if it crashes or not ?
Thank you.
I cannot do that as I use iMovie ’09 with no plans to upgrade to the current version. I suggest you post your question on the Tonymacx86.com forum. – Ed.
ok thank you!
I posted here
(you can save your iMovie, update it, try to launch, if it crashes, then restore the last working and saved version 🙂 )
Thanks, I’ll pass. – Ed.
you are using iMovie 9, and not version 11. I just realized, because the current version is 9.04 and it is the one packaged in version 11
I understand your sentence: I do not want to upgrade. and non updater 🙂
So, the chip arrived. I installed on my Auto-Sankor 135mm f 2.8 from the 70s pre-AI. I used the provided alignement tool, which worked very well, I have to say. Did not need the additional plastic support provided, just glued the chip on the border. No machining needed for this one. But I transformed the lens in AI using the metal piece with the fork for the index. I just unscrew it, and then cut the fork out; then I glued it upside down along the circumference of the lens in a way that it pulls the lever on the Nikon body to tell the camera to operate the aperture. I then programmed the chip with your instructions and now I have a fantastic old-modern lens!
The pre-AI fork was screwed on the lens in the opposite position from the now glued one. It was difficult to cut the fork (very good steel), then I filed it a bit and used Bostik transparent. For the chip I used loctite (superglue) because that’s what was around.
Images of David’s conversion appear below. – Ed.
Obviously I’m not a product visionary, but I don’t really see how a “smart” wristwatch fits into today’s landscape. You may call Google Glass creepy and invasive but at least it’s breaking new ground. N.b., nowhere has Apple publically announced they are working on a watch, it’s all pure media speculation. I personally think the rumours of an iWatch are part of a “long troll” initiated by Apple, aimed at credulous media, competitors and stock analysts.
Personally I’ve always worn a watch and will continue to do so, but right now I’m happy with radio-signal synced Japanese quartz. They’re a good mix of accuracy (important to me!) and economy. I’d like a watch that could sync the time signal from a mobile phone but that’s pretty nice.
What watch are you wearing, Thomas? I’m thinking it’s a PP 😀
Indeed. – Ed.
Hi,
I recently bought 6 Dandelion chips for Nikon.
All are installed now, and working good. I do have a question however concerning pre AI-s Nikkor lenses.
Before I chipped these AI lenses, I used them as “Non CPU lens” on my D700. Which worked fine, set a side the fact I occasionaly forgot to switch to the correct Non CPU lens.
Because of the difference in aperture mechanics between the AI en the AI-s Nikkors, which made me look for the Dandelion with the ’60’ option, I’ve found out that some AI Nikkors ‘lose’ or ‘gaine’ light after being chipped and programmed for using them in F-stop ring control. In A shooting mode they wil need a permanent +/-EV correction. For instance In case of my 135/3.5 AI lens I now need to correct +1.5 EV. I did not have to do that when I was using it in “Non CPU lens” mode before the chip was applied.
As instructed, I removed the lens form the “Non CPU lens” list.
I programmed:
Option 2.8 = f3.5
Option 4.5 = 135mm
Option 40 = f32
Option 60 = toggled to F-stop ring control
Camera settings:
Aperture preference (A mode)
Matrix metering
Single shot AF
ISO 200, or Auto ISO (same results)
Correction for this lens needed over the complete F-stop range: EV +1.5
Just to check if it is the chip that is causing this, I removed the chip form the 135/3.5 (by taking the rear baffle out on which the chip is glued on), reprogrammed a Non CPU lens 135/3.5 and made some test shots with the ‘un-chipped’ lens. Exposure was correct and needed no EV-correction at all.
OK this was a very long (sorry) story to prelude my question(s):
– Is this a known issue for the “Dandelion chip – AI Nikkor” combination? I mean the difference (EV+1.5) between non CPU and chipped?
– Is a programmable solution (other then manual EV correction) at hand for this problem?
– If not: Is a mechanical solution possible?
I’m looking forward to your reply.
Because with the ‘EV correction problem’ for me there is minimum advantage in using the chip on an AI Nikkor. In the chipped version I probably wil sometimes forget to manualy correct the EV. As in the past I sometimes forgot to switch to the correct “Non CPU lens”.
The EV correction wil most certenly differ between different AI lenses which means an extra issue to remember when mounting an AI lens.
The chipping of my AI-s Nikkors however did create some room in the “Non CPU lens” list 😉
Best regards,
Cees
All my chipped Nikkors – both pre-Ai, Ai and Ai-S, need +1.5EV adjustment as explained here. It’s a known issue. There is no variation between lenses – the issue is solely in the CPU (which is the only variable you are introducing when chipping) and the EV adjustment is consistent across the 20 or so lenses I have chipped, so I disagree with your statement in your penultimate sentence, above. It’s no problem to leave the camera body set to +1.5EV with chipped lenses. It is not a programmable solution (I have tried) nor is it a mechanical one as you would have incorrect maximum aperture indexing if you varies the position of the aperture-follower cut-out.
If, like me, you have a mixture of chipped and later (AFD, G) lenses, I suggest you do what I do – do not mix them when taking pictures because you can bet that you will forget to adjust the EV setting when switching between them. Alternatively, if you have two bodies, use one for chipped and the other for later lenses.
The advantages of chipping are far more than you state. It’s not just about not having to set the “Non CPU lens” setting in the menu or freeing up space in that menu. Read the beginning of this piece for a comprehensive list.
– Ed.
As an unsatisfied owner of Clive Sinclair’s ZX81, I was dreaming of the Osborne. Or of its competition with a larger, more useable screen, the Kaypro II. Later I settled for a lunch-box sized, display-less CP/M 80 machine.
IIRC, the Kaypro came out a couple of quarters after the Ozzy and was also a very capable CP/M machine – Ed.
Hi Tom: Are you going to pull the trigger? I’m currently using the Panasonic G2 and am thinking that this might be a nice camera to move to!
Almost certainly, based on the early reviews. I’m using the Panny G3 and this seems better for street work in most regards, especially now that they appear to have fixed the slow AF. Availability is the main cause of delay. – Ed.
Thanks for the pointer, I was looking for something like this too. Some time ago I’ve written a script that manually takes each movie and generates metadata for my Roku, so I can watch my movies on a big TV. But I missed the ability to quickly glance at what I have on my computer, without scrolling through a large folder in Finder.
The iPad app has some bad reviews, I’ve decided against buying it for now.
Amen, I’ll stay with LR4.4 and CS6 as long as possible. In the mean time I’ll be exploring Corel’s PSP.
Gary E.
You are right.
We came full circle.
In the beginning, there was the MainFrame, and it was good.
We were connected to it, depended on it, and paid for it monthly, but at least, we owned our data: remember those stacks of punch cards and tapes?
Than came the PC revolution: we had our own machines, we owned the software, we owned our data, and it was good.
I remember in the 90’s I could model structures, simulate earthquakes and perform finite element analysis on my desktop, running circles around the MainFrames of the 80’s, all for the reasonable cost of the software. No punch cards, no telex of data, no quick runs to CDC to pick up your printouts. It was good.
Now they are bent to take this freedom away from us, and want to squeeze us into the iCloud, the google docs, the Photoshop cloud.
I say forgetaboutit. It is not good.
I will not use the iCloud, the Adobe cloud and the other modern MainFrames, for the same reasons I felt free and liberated when I got my first PCs and later the Macs. I don’t trust my and my clients’ data to the cloud, no matter whose cloud it is, and I refuse to pay the monthly fees; even though google docs are free, I still don’t use them. I do not want or need data anxiety.
Up to now, I have not noticed any anomalies on the D600 and D3100 bodies.
I’ve had the following AIS lenses chipped by my dealer: 28/2.8, 35/2.8, 85/1.4, 105/1.8, 105/4 (Micro), 180/2.8 ED
This one just baffles me, with a capital “baff.” On the one hand, surely they realize that this move is suicide. On the other hand, it never pays to overestimate corporate brains, so I agree with your bet that they’ll move LR to subscription-based also. I won’t even consider it. I’m inclined to do a pre-emptive switch to Aperture.
Awesome!
please update us on what you find
Keith
Say have you looked at the CZ985A and CZ988A papers?
this doc says it has the same specs and mentions the DJ130
http://www.lasercare.com/downloads/paper/HPPaperSelctorGuide.pdf
Keith – those are the stock glossy and satin papers which HP has long provided for the DJ 30/90/130 and are excellent. I have used both exclusively for years. However, as I have mentioned, they are being discontinued and 13″x19″ and 18″x24″ cut sheets are becoming very hard to find. And life is too short to deal with rolls. Hence these articles. – Ed.
aHH ok, I thought those new part #’s where the “reformulated’ versions, thanks for the clarification.
I am a new dj130 user, I got one of the last ones from Adorama, once I got it and set it up I discovered that it was Discontinued!
I got a ticket to return it, but once I printed out a couple of samples from the satin pack that came with the printer I was blown away!
So I decided to keep it (esp after looking at the canon prices on ink for their 24†printers) and try and get some of the NOS papers and supplies and hopefully with your research find some alternative paper.
I just picked up a bunch of q5489a NOS for cheap and one of the gloss packets to test the gloss
I assume there is no real shelf life to these papers since they are suppose to last 80+ years anyway.
Also one last thing, is there a good message board for the dj30/90/130 ?
I have not really came across anything consistent.
Cheers!
Keith
Try the Yahoo HP Printers discussion group.
Lightroom’s catalogs live in the cloud?
Are people going to do photo editing over the mobile network? Even given the great enthusiasm for all things mobile, I doubt that. What is sensible would be to give a locally hosted + cloud edition, with each version capable of standing on its own, and the cloud version also providing services comparable to Flickr and instagram.
Say do you have any clue if q5495a HP paper is swellable and would work for the dj130?
I picked up some at my local fry’s but I have had no luck finding any hard info on it out on the internet.
Thanks again!
Keith
Q5485a ia for pigment ink printers and is not swellable. Q5486a is the right one for the DJ30/90/130 in glossy surface finish. – Ed
Dear Thomas, so I got another chip and I wanted to give it a try on my last buy from ebay: a Soligor 75-260, Tokina-made from the late 60’s…3 pounds of metal! It is preAI, so I had to modify it, but not for the AI coupling lever, as there’s no such thing on my D70, but for the EE servo lever. In fact, the aperture ring was slightly colliding to the EE lever of the D70. So I took it out and file it by 1,5 mm, and now the aperture ring engage the EE lever when at f22. So I can command the aperture from the D70. The chip is in place with just bi-adesive tape as you suggested.
Two questions: 1) even if it is preAI, aperture commanded from the camera seems to get the correct exposure… the preAI non linearity does not seems to be so wrong here… or am I wrong? 2) I set the chip to focal 260 of the zoom range… but I get a lot of misfocused images… is it because of this setting (should I try 75) or it is just the lens?
David – 1) Aperture non-linearity is a function of the design of the aperture cam in the lens. Just because your Soligor/Tokina is pre-Ai does not mean it does not have a non-linear cam. All AiS Nikkors have linear cams (Ai and pre-Ai do not) but it’s likely Tokina used a linear cam which explains why you have no issues. 2) The focal length dialed into the CPU has nothing to do with focusing. All it does is record EXIF file data so that you can subsequently search on that focal length. Thus the rational conclusion is that your lens is at fault. – Ed.
Thanks for clarification. Maybe it is not at fault, it is just me holding a 3 pounds monster and not being steady enough, because some half of the shots taken are in focus. Now I got from my uncle two great lens with Pentacon six mounts (Carl Zeiss Jen Biometar 80 f2.8 and Mir 3b 65 f3.5) and a Nikon converter. If I chip the converter can I use both lenses?
Yes. – Ed.
Hello Thomas,
I have just bought one of these for my Nikon D3200. You mentioned the Nikkor 50mm F2 which I also have and I am totally stunned at how good that lens is.
I am hoping my copy of the QC 200mm is as good as your review claims it to be.
Thanks for taking the time to write about this lens.
Kind Regards,
Tom
Hi Thomas,
Thank you for your reply.
I’ll check my other Ai lenses again and more closely to see if this +1.5EV indeed is a constant. If it is consistent than it is less of an issue. A small coloured sticker on these lenses as an ‘EV reminder’ would do the trick for me.
Of course there are more advantages overall, chipping these old beauties. Using them all is a difference that may vary per user.
Thank you again. Your answers really helped me sort it out, as did the article.
Best regards,
Cees
For some time now I’ve suffered from magenta banding and for a short time, fuzzy printing and I have since solved both problems. I have a Designjet 130nr (don’t use the roll-feed–it’s still new in the box)
The HP Designjet 130 suffered from
1. fuzzy printing which I assumed was a problem with print head alignment.
2. magenta showing in place of gray which I assumed was some color not properly flowing to the paper.
3. late in the process of working to correct the above, I began to hear a LOUD ratcheting sound.
The fuzzy printing was solved simply by setting a print preference in the printer palette, unchecking ColorSync and checking Vendor Matching. I get a finer set of lines without the blurring.
The magenta problem was in the light cyan printhead or the LC print cartridge. I replaced both. No problem with plugged tubes, thank Zeus. I now can print the same quality of gray that I’ve had in the past.
When I start up, the head moves back and forth a bit and the ratchet sound starts. I simply press the (red) cancel button and it resets and allows me to print my sheets. Note I print one at a time off of the big extension table on the front–not from the intake table below the main table. I think the ratchet problem is the machine trying to pick up paper from the lower table. I have 8-1/2 x 11 there (which, it dawns on me, I should remove). I also get, on my large sheets (18 x 24) three small incisor-like marks 2/3rds of the way through my print cycle. Weird.
Bottom line, I can live with the ratchet sound, if I can save 5 bills or more. I’ll look closer at the DesignJet manual when I get a little more free time to get a better idea of the source. The “5 bills” reference was for a repair quote that included an HP kit. I’m wondering if the kit includes all new print heads and inks. Since I’ve already replaced many of these, paying for replacing them again is troubling. The repair people, smelling a Do It Yourselfer, haven’t returned my phone calls.
Lastly, I had a newer ink cartridge which showed ink on the readout begin to not provide ink. I simply let it soak for a few minutes in a mug of hot water and it began working just fine after I’d wiped it down and reinserted it.
I wonder whether the incisor marks are being caused by the built in cutting knife. It might make sense to try disabling it. – Ed.
Microsoft does one better than Adobe.
http://www.dailykos.com/story/2013/06/11/1215474/-Tech-Thoughts-Microsoft-s-Seppuku-at-E3
And some of the worst writing ever. Why use 100 words when 10,000 will do? – Ed.
I feel so sorry you had such a complicated and not entirely positive experience in acquiring this lens… and I’m glad you finally got a good copy.
Mine has been stellar right from the beginning, it’s practically welded to my D3s ever since I got it.
I would never buy another HP printer again, I’ve had this same problem only after a month of use. I purchased my printer new while in school and did not have the luxury of time to get my projects printed, but spent many hours troubleshooting and on the phone with the morons at HP. They are the worst for tech support and after the warranty is over, you might as well go out and buy another printer (I would suggest Espon) becasue buy the time you would spend on the phone for the paid support you could have bought a new printer.
Thoroughly enjoyed reading your article-I just bought a 35mm 1.4 MF for a ridiculously low price and have ordered the DK-17. I know it’s more difficult to nail critical focus on MF wide-angles compared to teles, but reading what you’ve written is very reassuring.
Thanks for the great tutorial and clear programming instruction manual. I have just successfully chipped my first lens! A nikkor 20mm f/2.8 AiS. Actually my favorite lens of all.
I have one note for Nikon D90 owners: In stead of a 1″ and then 6″ exposure to initiate the various programming cycles, you should do a 1″, then a 5″ and finally another 1″ exposure. Set the EV increment to 1/3 to enable a 5″ exposure. The rest is similar to Thomas’ description. Thank again Thomas!
Btw: for reference chipping a 20mm f/2.8 ais is a simple glue job. No sawing or grinding required.
Thomas, A great series of articles on the MacPro. I have a MacPro 3.1 (Early 2008) which I purchased new in January 2008. It is still doing a capable job. I have increased the memory to 14GB, I added a ATI HD 3870 graphics card, a Patriot 120 GB SSD, 3 HDs and some additional USB ports. Reading your excellent posts on your newly acquired 2009 MacPro has given me some ideas regarding upgrading my MacPro. Thanks for sharing your thoughts… and photographs.
I moved the optical drive to the lower optical bay, then sat three SSDs on top, held in place by double-sided tape. Unless the Mac Pro is to be moved around a lot (40 pounds, yeah, right!) I don’t understand the need for adaptors. I did the 4,1 to 5,1 update (single processor Mac is now hex 3.33) last summer and have been enjoying the performance.
Love your writing style Thomas. Thanks for a truly stellar guide!
Thanks for the update, I love my dj130 and have been trying to stock up on paper supplies and such.
I hope you can find some alternative paper! I noticed that the satin Rolls are now Discontinued!
Keith
This is wonderful.
After an exhausting search on the web , I finally found a fix for the system maintenance issue (I have a DJ130nr). I read a forum that suggested to do a search for the system maintenance for the Designjet 111. That person also had a 130, but the utility worked for him. I tried the same and it worked for me too, and yes, I’m a mac user, OSX 10.6.8 snow leapard. Here’s the link.
Even finally managing to get the system maintenance software to work did not fix my problem. Everything I have tried to print for the last few days has come out with a reddish/pink hue. As with Thomas’ image, it suddenly started to show up at the bottom of one of my images. I followed all of the instructions for cleaning the printheads, and did all of the diagnostics and everything came out as working properly. I swear, I think I ran the diagnostic 12 times. So 3 days later, I have replaced 5 of the 6 printheads (all but the light magenta), and 4 of the 6 ink cartridges – those that were flashing low. I still get the reddish hue. I’ve tried to print from Photoshop CS3, Silhouette, and Illustrator CS4, as well as in RGB and CMYK. The results are the same.
Am I missing something here? Does anyone know anything about the ink tubes? Is that something that could be causing this problem? Again, the image diagnostics showed no issues. Does anyone have any suggestions (Thomas, are you still there)? or am I hosed? I can’t find anyone in my area who will repair this printer. It’s out of warranty, and is about 8 or nine years old. If someone can give me some guidance, I’d like to try to fix it myself. I run a small art business and have orders pending!! PLEASE HELP ASAP!!
The ink tubes are inexpensive and easy to replace. I illustrate that here. Given what you have done already, that would be a logical place to try. You can find the tubes for the 130 series here. – Thomas
This is wonderful and whimsical!
Hi Thomas, I enjoyed this post quite a bit. I don’t speak Chinese (I should) but if I am not mistaken the word Qi means “Energy” with capital E which permeates all living thing in the Far-Eastern world view. If that is so, then the choice of name for the charger puck is quite brilliant 🙂
Last I checked, English is the common use language here, unless you are on the Stanford campus. – Ed.
His Flickr feed is amazing (and high res), I have followed it for years. The story behind the picture above speaks volumes about a president that many (even many supporters) sometimes consider to be somewhat cold and aloof. To me this is “the image” of his entire presidency…
Hey, what’s your favorite beverage? I might drive 2 hours up and drop off a 12-pack for you. I’m waiting for my ebay Mac Pro to arrive, and while I’m waiting…this series on the Mac Pro has been awesome! I stayed up past my bedtime reading the first 9, and Part X was even better! I like your use of measurement and empiricism…like you, I have an obsession about heat issues (although I never had your problems–I avoided the iMac like the plague) and the temp reduction using smcFanControl will save me some time and effort (although I’m geeky enough to take my own measurements).
I wanted to let everyone know how my saga is progressing.
I finally received the ink tube assembly from China and installed it successfully. I also replaced the final print head that had not been changed. That completed the new set. After everything I did (change all printheads, 4 of the 6 ink cartridges, and ink tube assembly), there was absolutely no change in the prints. Everything still had a red/pink hue.
Due to pending orders, I decided to bite the bullet and buy another used DJ130nr. Luckily for me, there was one available in my area, so I was able to check it out before I purchased it. Everything looked good, so I bought it. So I got it home, set it up and held my breath. Same problem. Red prints. Despite the fact that it printed fine at the sellers place. Then I started thinking it might be a color profile or calibration issue. With the new printer set up, I went through the system maintenance utility and it found the computer. When I went to calibrate, I realized that when I chose the paper I use (prem. plus photo gloss) it showed up as obsolete and wouldn’t calibrate. After hours of trying to work around that, my husband and I brainstormed to try to figure out what was different between how I printed at the sellers house and our house. It came down to the paper. I put some prem plus semi gloss in and chose that as an option and the print came out perfectly. So my work around right now is to use the glossy paper, but choose the semi-gloss as the paper option.
Also see here on how to use the DJ90/130’s colrimeter to generate your own profiles and look here to learn how to use any profile with any paper – simply experiment a bit and use the one which gives the best resulots. – Ed.
Trap focus works fine on a D800 with f9 (this refers to the ‘f9’ menu selection on the rear LCD screen – Ed.) in either mode. Well, it does for me. However, programming the chip took two efforts. The first time it didn’t take properly.
I swapped to a fully charged battery, reset the chip (command 90) and started again. Then it worked fine. Also, command 60 can only be undone with a body that has the AI reader (these are the higher specification bodies). Once command 60 has been set into a chip, it isn’t possible to enter chip programming mode without that capability on the camera body. (The AI reader is that sprung loaded prong that sticks out above the lens release button and reads where the aperture ring has been turned to. There is a separate switch opposite it that is used by some camera bodies to record when the lens isn’t set at its smallest aperture, however that switch can’t record actual aperture.)
Just for info, there is no real change in the way AF M/S/C works on the newer bodies (D800 et al) and the previous ones, it is only the user interface that has changed. The mechanical bit is from M to S, and that is the same on the latest cameras as the older ones. S/C (& the new function in the D600 that auto switches between S and C) is an electronic command, nothing more.
I suggest that the first command should always be a chip reset (command 90). Make sure the power is switched off after each step too. Also, I don’t get the 7 second delay before the aperture readout starts scrolling, I do 1s, 6s, 1s and straight away the aperture readout is scrolling from 2.8.
Command 60 stops later camera bodies (maybe 2008 on?) from working in a sensible manner, the AF won’t respond to commands, the trap focus stops, the chip won’t take new programming instructions (and is in a different mode). So the comment re the D800 and AF is correct if command 60 has been set. It would seem that command 60 is a “don’t do it” situation and therefore AI lenses might not be reliable regarding exposure. The D700 is about the 2008 era, so after that? Maybe there is a reason that command 60 isn’t documented?
The D800’s f9 command can be in either setting on the body but it is ignored, the sub command dial is active in both settings (command 60 not set) and the aperture ring setting is ignored. (However, if the aperture ring isn’t at minimum, the camera body cannot set an aperture smaller than the one the ring is set to, this is a mechanical limitation of Nikon’s aperture control on lenses with an aperture ring.)
Once command 60 has been set and an attempt is made to enter chip programming mode (with a suitable body in aperture ring ON set in the body), instead of the aperture reading scrolling as expected, it scrolls with ‘normal’ values to f90 (passing f45, and f64 on the way). I tried selecting f64 (the one before f90) to see if it would come out of command 60 mode and the chip didn’t. Command 90 reset the chip as expected.
The later bodies stayed ‘hung up’ as regards AF until a Nikkor was fitted. Then it all reverted to nominal.
When I did get command 60 set, when not on minimum aperture, I got the EE error displayed (all bodies) (as expected). When at minimum aperture and in sub-command dial mode, the display was of a varying aperture. When switched to aperture ring mode in the body (f9 in a D800), now the aperture readout changed with the ring, but the camera was basically unusable re AF. I’m not sure that other aspects of the body weren’t hanging up, exposure was unreliable.
In case it matters, I did all chip programming with the lens physically at minimum aperture.
It would seem that the chip isn’t properly/fully compatible.
I can make no promises about any damage you might be doing to your Nikon camera. This is entirely at your own risk.
The Nikon D3x which I use was first sold in December 2008, and all chip commands, including ’60’ work properly. Accordingly, the anomalies noted above with regard to ‘Command 60’ may be specific to the D800 – Ed.
In a barrage of N7 reviews since it was released…your is the finest that I have read. The various reviews have already hashed and rehashed the specs and benchmark numbers, but your takes a cut above the rest in giving a firsthand “usage” review, and your commentary through the page is hilarious 🙂 Now back to playing with my evil google tablet
Just tick ‘Request desktop site’ on chrome and you can access iCloud.com
This means tap the column of three dots at the top right of Chrome, to the right of the URL window, and check the box – another tap – ‘Request desktop s…(ite)’. This works but is half as fast as the method I outline above. Almost unusably slow, in fact. – Ed.
Hello Thomas,
Not least because of your glowing article I recently treated myself to a copy of the Q 200/4 (SN 521662) and find it hard to believe what I’m seeing: the thing is all you said and more – absolutely fantastic! It’s a user lens with okay cosmetics and cost a whopping 34€.
I have tested and do own many allegedly better lenses in this focal range (among them Nikkor 180/2.8 ED, Leica 180/2.8 II, Leica 180/4, Leica Apo 180/3.4 and most of those fancy 2.8 tele zooms) and while the Q is not necessarily the sharpest of the lot, it oozes character and I for one wouldn’t trade it for anything.
Thanks for bringing this miracle lens to my attention.
Greetings from Bavaria
Uli
Hi,
just a quick reply to everybody who has stuck at 60th command and cant get into program mode,check your Nikon camera (mine is Nikon D5100),it has a small black clip on the left hand side(if looking from the front). Press it and repeat steps for a cpu reset. It worked for me. I was getting message that aperture ring wasn’t locked and couldn’t enter programing mode.
This switch is on select Nikon DSLR bodies; neither my D2x or D3x has it. The location on the D5100 is shown below – Ed.
Awesome Article! Thank you! I am planning to do the same, but since I have an unused spare drive bay will take the sata power from there – is there any issue with the power there being ok – since you mentioned not to take any power from those on-board plugs meant from gfx card ??
The sole issue is the loss of a drive bay. If that works for you, it’s fine. – Ed.
Thomas, many, many thanks. Here in Brazil we live in a kind of a fantasy island with little real stuff, regarding photography. Your post is awesome, I’ve four AI Nikkors and I’ll try your prescriptions, very accurate indeed, althought my D7K has 9 non-cpu lenses to be registrered, as you noticed. Having a CPU lens is reallly a boost, I never imagined it possible! Great post!
Regards!
Stunning view, so true. Many aficionados of Leica would claim otherwise!
Sadly it’s all true. i have used Leica M3 since 1966. Present M3 from 67.
First destroyed. My M2 again is great. The M6, a sad forward move.
Great! there is a meter, flare and a feeling not an M3/M2.
jason gold.
I managed to find a Nikon 500mm Reflex (N) brand new in an unopened box from the owner of a local camera store that closed not long ago. That was the find of the century for me. I was going to sell it on eBay but couldn’t resist trying it out. I found everything you shared about this lens to be spot on. It is definitely not a point and shoot kind of lens, but I love it. I will need to install a CPU on it to help with focusing. Attached is a cropped image of the Moon I took a few hours ago with my D7000. Not bad, not bad at all. Thanks for a great article!
Frank Jr.
Hi, thank you for this wonderful tutorial! Today I tried to install a chip on a 50 mm f/1.8-22 Nikon Series E lens. I’ve got the old edition (black ring), wich has a signaling pin notch (like common AI-s lenses).
http://www.nikonusa.com/kdb/images/ailens/img5.jpg
I’ve a Nikon D5200, so I can’t use lens’ aperture ring.
So, I’ve completely programmed the chip with actual lens parameters, but I see a very bad linearity of exposures at different apertures (almost 1 stop at apertures between f/4.5 and f/8!).
Is this lens really AI-s? Do you know why I’ve this non-linearity?
Thank you!
Niki
If the lens has the scalloped cut out in the bayonet mounting flange it is AiS. It looks like your body may be the cause of the anomaly owing to its inability to pass aperture control to the lens’s aperture ring. -Ed.
AiS scallop on a Series E 75-150mm zoom.
Great job of reviewing this tablet. Your review was just what I was looking for to educate myself about Mini vs N7.
Thanks a lot.
Very fine specimen of the “fay way” indeed. Love the toolbox. The beetle is to an MB 190 like a Kodak Brownie to a Leica III. Saw a couple of nice 190s in this event: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stw254/sets/72157635574945144/
There are 10 kinds of people: those who understand binary systems and those who don’t.
The more I use this lens the more I am impressed with it. On September 18th I took this image of the moon using the same camera as before. This time it was a full moon referred to as the “Harvest Moon”. The last full Moon before Fall of the year.
I can confirm that the D3200 can in fact program the lens but it seems to exit programming mode if the camera is allowed to go into power saving mode, so you will want to put in a longer timeout in the settings menu.
I added mavericks to my (new) imac and found that I can no longer print from Lightroom to my Epson 3800. Epson says the mavericks drivers for these printers are not yet available, “check back soon”
Here is epson’s response (today, 10/27) to request for stylus pro 3800 OS X 10.9 drivers
Printer Driver
10/15/13 More Info
Description:
An OS X 10.9 compatible Printer Driver for this model is not yet available but is coming soon. Please check back for availability.
Compatible Systems: Mac OS X (v10.9.x)
Hi Thomas, I have started using focus block on my chipped 200mm f4 Nikkor-Q and I think it is fantastic, really much faster than using the dot and much more spot on than I could ever judge. I also turned this on for my 50mm F1.4 ai’d but the focus seems really bad when holding down the shutter and turning the focus. I read your article about adjusting the focus point in the CPU but I don’t believe that would help here. If you start focussed too near and go forward you will get the focus too near in the image and vice-versa if focussed too far. I noticed that if I just use the dot that it lights over too a broad range of foci. This is with my D3200 body in AF-C mode. If I put it in MF mode (so shutter can be triggered anytime and viewfinder bargraph shows focus instead of exposure) then using the bargraph gives accurate focus in good light. I have the same problem at F5.6 as I do at F1.4, although less obvious due to increased DOF. Weird!
Like!
I enjoyed your series on the GX7. I want it, it is affordable, but I don’t really need it right now. I don’t have the 20mm and I know you dislike it. However, I saw a post where on a GH3, the old 20mm focuses faster than the Leica DG 25mm on a GH2. The GX7 may have the same focusing logic as the GH3. Worth re-testing the 20mm on the GX7. Here is the link.
My Hartmann card case lasted 31 years. Received it as a college graduation gift and have used it daily.
After serving me well all that time, it finally met it’s demise, but I’m about to break in it’s replacement now.
If this one lasts another 31, it may survive me.
Simple and trustworthy, indeed.
Beautiful. Thank you.
The reason that you don’t get the correct orientation on older Panasonic bodies, is that Panasonic, in their wisdom, implemented the orientation sensor in the OIS mechanism of the lens.
So if the lens isn’t stabilized, no orientation sensor either. Panasonic have now rectified this and have added an orientation sensor in most of the new bodies …
I think you are going to like the 17mm; I do enjoy mine.
Be very judicious with the non-OEM spare battery. Once, I made the mistake of running it empty and it died a terrible death. Corrupted the entire SD card and I lost all my precious video clips/photos from that shoot.
Wonderful review, thank you! I too am liking the electronic/silent shutter mode on my G5, however have had to be careful to avoid the indoor lighting issues and the more frequently encountered than expected (albeit subtle) “rolling shutter” issues. In that regard, was “tattoo dude” shot while panning?
Hmmm. I really don’t know. This sort of thing is a ‘stream of consciousness’ blur for me, a sort of informed autopilot mindset! – Ed.
Excelent Series of 2009 Mac pro articles. I recently bought a used Mac pro 2009 2×2.66 MHz CPU and I was wondering if it was a good decision. I could not have received better advice than yours in such a clear explanation!! Thank you very much for all the hints and precious information!!
It might be that B&H has a new part number for the battery.
I am skeptical to after-market batteries too, as many of them don’t report its charge level back to the camera; so I don’t get an indication whether the battery is getting flat or not. Neither does the camera, so it will just shut off abruptly when the battery runs out of juice. I have only gotten a few thrashed files; getting a thrashed SD card is worse, but in worst case (theoretically), one could end up with a trashed camera.
It is Dec 2013, and I’ve just purchased my 35mm 1.4 a few days ago. All I can say is, nothing has changed – and I wish I came across your post sooner. I’ve spent 2 excruciating days trying to fine tune the focus using the USB dock, thinking that I was losing the plot when neither going + or – seemed to solve the AF issues. I had a feeling that maybe, the Sigma’s AF just sucked. Then I saw this post of yours and it confirms it. Now I don’t know whether or not to try and exchange the lens or to fight for a refund. This is ridiculous.
I have been shooting with all Nikkor only lenses and none of them miss this often. If the Nikkor fails to obtain focus, it generally starts “hunting”. With the Sigma, it ALWAYS confirms the AF… which causes the user to think he/she actually nailed focus. Very dangerous lens to buy IMHO.
Yes, their QC is awful. That said, a good Sigma is quite a bit better than the far costlier Nikkor G. Why not exchange it? Reckon on 2 or 3 samples to get a good one and you end up with the best 35mm lens available, but there’s no excusing this company’s shoddy execution. This is the first and last Sigma optic I will buy, for this very reason. – Ed
Interesting. Thanks.
Hi Ed,
Thanks for writing back. I’ve got a Sigma 150mm 2.8 that was fabulous, hence I had faith in Sigma at one point. I thought that only people with issues were complaining on the forums about the 35mm, hence I couldn’t be that unlucky – guess I lucked out. 🙁
I want to exchange it but I don’t know if the store here in Australia’s going to say “no, we’re gonna send it to Sigma to get it fixed instead – you’ll need to wait”. If that’s the case, I’m gonna be furious.
I’ve got a question for you though, if you were at a store (and it was sorta dimly lit), would you try testing the lens out there? It’s hard to see if you nailed focus especially with this 35mm that only exhibits issues past 3 meters. I’ve got a D600 and small details are hard to make out at that distance on the playback display. Sorry for the rant, I’m just stressed out that I don’t know what I’m saying anymore. I’m going to the store tomorrow to see what options I have. I really want a good copy of this lens and would gladly pay double if I had to.
‘Tests’ which use the camera’s LCD to evaluate AF are, IMO, a complete waste of time. Take your teat images and process them at home in the usual way. That reflects real world use.
As for the faulty lens you bought, I would simply insist on a replacement. I don’t know what the lemon laws are in Australia, but you got a lemon. You paid for a lens. – Ed.
Thomas, I am so sorry for your loss. Over the years of reading your blog (and the story of your life), I came to love Bert for who he was and for the joy he brought in your life. May he rest in peace, and may the passage of time fill the loss in your and Winston’s heart.
Hi..thanks for the great tutorial..I just bought this CPU.. my Ai-s lens is Nikkor 800mm f5.6..can it work with this lens?? I use a d700 body..thanks
Yes it can be used but you need to do some work. As your image of the lens’s flange, below, shows, there is no protruding lip to which the CPU can be glued. The CPU – green box – is installed with the fourth pin aligned with the red-circled screw. Thus you must first glue in an arc of plastic or metal inside the barrel at the green box location which will protrude to the depth of the CPU. Then you glue the CPU to that protrusion. You can fashion the glued-in piece form scrap metal or plastic, it’s not hard if you are handy.
Green rectangle denotes location of CPU, red circle is the alignment mark for the fourth pin – three pins to the right clockwise is the correct orientation.
Alternatively, while it’s hard to make out from your picture, above, if the rear black portion of the barrel is plane with the chromed bayonet, you can simply glue the CPU, flat side down, to the black portion of the rear flange, such that the CPU’s pins do not protrude beyond the outer edge of the bayonet.
For best results I would do both – install a protruding arc of material and glue the CPU both to that (on its inner concave surface) and also put some epoxy on the curved, flat lower surface of the CPU where it contacts the existing black part of the rear of the lens. – Ed.
January, 2014 – Here are the reader’s images of the CPU installation on his 800mm Nikkor – nice job!:
Thomas, I am curious if the body and the lens are manufactured in Japan?
All of the GX7, the 17/1.8 Oly and 45/1.8 Oly I own say “Made in Japan” – Ed.
Dear Mr Pindelski –
Thank you – years after you prepared this article it remains a godsend (any chance you could do the same for all HP’s other products?) Merry Christmas
Thomas, thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I was searching the internet trying to find out why my newly created lcp files were not being used in LR 5. I first created it with JPG files, then tried TIF files – no luck. Then I stumbled across your other posting stating that I had to use DNG files. Bingo! That worked. I have created a bare bones lcp file for a 28-80 Nikon lightweight zoom (only 7 ounces) that I carry on my D600 when backpacking. Thanks again.
I just got the 500m Reflex C. Sharpness is unreal. I will use with the Sony EH50 and VG 20 for both stills and video, the latter, always with a tripod. 🙂 Good article here for sure.
A group of people with more years ahead of them than behind them. An excellent set of photos to start a new year.
What software did you use for your xrite i1D1 colorimeter? When I upgraded Match3 no longer worked. Thanks.
Dan – see below. Works with Mavericks 10.9 and 10.9.1 – Thomas
Yes, I agree. Bless you for writing this article. Gabrielle, interesting about the paper causing the problem. I’m glad you found the problem.
Another thing I can add to this article is this: if the printer is acting very strangely – multiple printheads failing, or the carriage freezes, for no apparent reason – suspect the OOPS (out of paper sensor). It’s a simple fix to clean it, but this little sensor caused me many hours of confusion and grief!! The diagnostic codes did not indicate a sensor problem at all. Another important tip: if a printhead is not recognized by the printer, you can remove the 4 contacts on the back of the printhead (they are just glued on – peel them off carefully.) Use the contacts from an old printhead that is recognized by the printer, but is otherwise kaput. You don’t need to add more glue, there should be enough on the back. Stick it on carefully in the correct position, and the printer will now recognize it. These printers are great, if you can figure out how to fix them. Good luck to all! – Kathy
For instructions on how to replace the out-of-paper sensor, refer to page 7-68 of the Maintenance Manual which you can download here:
Click to download the HP DesignJet Service Manual brochure.
Thomas
Thank you for the service manual link! So helpful – thank you again. I love your sense of humor. We were laughing about the comment that “real men don’t need instructions.” We have 6 of these wonderful printers (well, it’s a love/hate relationship). You’ve helped us immensely.
Nor do ‘real women’ …..! Thomas
I was very happy with this Sigma 35mm when it was working. However, i need a lens that will just AF properly for me. i have tested 5 off the shelf copies and NONE worked properly. QC? i honestly think its more than a QC issue.
My case is here if anyone would like to read it.
Nick – eloquently stated. My experience suggests I never want to be within a country mile of another Sigma ‘bargain price’ optic, though I was lucky to finally got one which works. – Thomas.
Fantastic. Wonderful all around, so many things here. And… you could not have planned for better light highlighting the profile of the gentleman in the corner.
I have recently returned to film photography with the purchase of a very clean Nikon F. In the spirit of the Nikon’s vintage I acquired a copy of this lens. I have to say photographing with this lens is one of those rare times when everything feels “just right”. The feel and the operation of the lens and camera are worth the cost of admission. I had forgotten how much of a pleasure it is to use a fine mechanical instrument like the “F” and this lens. The resulting images from this combination are better than I ever expected. The short comings of this lens with color film are well documented but I feel are more than a bit overstated. I am more than pleased with my color film results and the B&W photographs have pushed me back into serious film photography. If you are at all tempted by this lens by all means give it a try. You’re in for a treat! Thanks for the fine review.
Great photo. So was this shot on the Leica or Panasonic? I’ve been reading your posts for many years.
Thanks, Adam. If you believe in satire and actually click thorugh to the Amazon Leica ‘review‘, you will know the answer. – Ed.
I just bought off ebay a Nikkor-H 85mm F1.8 Non-AI….finding these images and instructions here give me hope that I can do this to put the lens on my Nikon D3!
Cheers!
She, Mary Ellen Mark and Jill Krementz are three women doing amazing work from the 1960s on, even if Annie L. is more well-known because of her commercial work. Freedman’s “Old News: Resurrection City” (1970) is still one of my favorite books.
I just picked up a 1971 vintage Nikkor-Q 200/4 at a local camera shop for US $39 in EX+ condition and must concur that it is a real jewel. While not as sharp as my AI-S version of the same lens, the ‘Q’ just exudes character. I would call the rendering smooth and round with a beautiful out of focus area presentation. It’s a fun lens to mount on the Df. Probably the only down side is the “close” focus is only 7ft, not really suitable for use in close quarters!
Thomas,
Thank you for blogging about these DesignJets. I had left my old DJ 130 unused in an attic for more than a year… dusty, sad looking, a mouse had even lived inside it for a while! I cleaned it up and printed a test page, and was surprised to see that all the heads worked perfectly. – For a while… then Yellow stopped printing. Readers of this blog of course know why: the yellow tube was clogged.
I took it apart and followed the method explained by Hanzzz above. I inserted a syringe (from an ink refill kit for a different printer) in the end where the print head is fed, and managed to “massage” the clots in the tube while injecting hot water. I also injected water from the other end (after disconnecting the Cartridge end of the tube). The clots dissolved completely and the tube was 100% clean after a few syringefulls of water.
Finally, I used the syringe to suck some yellow ink out of an old cartridge, which I then used to fill up the tube (i.e. priming it) before assembling everything. Worked first time, prints beautifully!
Here is a tip for dealing with electrical problems with the print heads (indicated by flashing printhead on the LCD display). This is caused by oxidized contacts on the printhead and in the printer itself. To fix it, spray a tiny amount of Deoxit D5 on a Q-tip, and wipe the contacts on the print head (and the mating contacts in the print head station). You can buy “Deoxit D5” on Amazon, eBay, etc. – It is a little expensive but 100% effective with this annoying problem.
Thomas,
A quick tip regarding installing USB drivers for these printers in Windows 7:
If you download the setup program “HP Designjet 130 Series PCL3GUI Installer” and run it on Windows 7, you will find that in fact this setup program doesn’t install the USB drivers properly – i.e. it fails miserably to install, doesn’t even find the printer and ends up stuck, unable to complete the job.
A simple workaround to this is to buy a JetDirect network card on eBay for around $10 – $15 used, and connect the printer over the network. That works fine, and the HP software installs and works.
However it is in fact possible to install the USB drivers on Windows 7 – but you do need to jump through a few hoops. The problem is that the driver file from HP doesn’t correctly map to the hardware ID that the DesignJet reports, so the setup program will never work.
However, HP does offers a separate, smaller Driver file on their web site, called “HP Designjet 30 and 130 PCL3GUI Driver” which can be modified to work.
1. Download the driver file above from the HP web site. Extract the contents into a folder.
2. Plug the printer into a USB port. Do a Properties on the printer in Device Manager, identify the “Hardware ID”
3. Going back to your downloaded driver, open the file dsgj110.inf and change the line that mentions your printer so it now contains the correct hardware ID reported by the printer. For example,
“HP Designjet 130nr”= DJ130,USBPRINT\Hewlett-Packardhp_de490D
4. Now simply install the driver using the standard Windows “Update Driver” function (Device Manager, Properties). Windows now finds the driver and installs flawlessly!
The HP system maintenance tool called “HP Designjet 30 and 130 System Maintenance Utility” seems to have no issues installing on Win 7 64 bit, and works great once the USB driver above has been installed.
Happy printing!
The book looks pretty nice too – thanks for the heads up!
D2X – I could not agree more! Buy a quality product used at a steep discount. Flagship Digital cameras seem to be like a Mercedes Benz, awesome things with terrible resale value. No matter – the Benz will keep you smiling for years and Nikon made it into Paul Simon’s song Kodachrome for a good reason. Well they took the Kodachrome away, but you can pretty much duplicate it in a D2X’s custom menus!
BTW – I got mine last week for $500 with 24,875 clicks!!
Just finished my third conversion (300mm f4.5 pre ai-$69 on eBay) per your excellent instructions, and it works great on my D7000, as do the others. Many thanks for this great resource.
Thanks for this bit you provided, so much differing unqualified opinion exist today regarding these gems that it is refreshing to read praise. The H version was primarily created to be a photojournalist/press lens specific for B&W photography use. The later HC version was to obviously enhance color. Having the HC to use for B&W is not necessarily worth the extra expense at all. We are lucky to have in Nikon a company thoughtful to share it’s historical side and to provide us this ability to understand why a particular lens was developed. The lens is truly a historical icon, from ringside to rice paddy, images captured with these lenses are our world history illustrated in the media of new era dawning. My version is as sharp as my Nikkor P.C 105mm f2.5, but the color I believe lags a bit (which is probably true for about 99% of all other lenses as well). This H version is just a stellar B&W performer anyone should have just for that purpose or intent only.
Your old Canon 5D lives on! I still use it regularly. I am currently waiting on one of the Lomo Kickstarter Petsval lenses to use with it.
It’s still great and is proof a well made (and maintained!! thank you for that) body is still a valid and fun tool 7??? years later.
I have cleaned the sensor several times (I tend to leave a lens on for a while) and have cleaned the focusing screen, other than that it is my goto full frame full body DSLR.
I carry the little Sony RX100II with me everywhere I go but the Canon is always with me when I expect to be shooting some real keepers.
Many thanks again
Barry Burris
Very nice post, Thomas. We’ll be sure to visit the museum next time we are there in the area. Thanks.
HP 130 C7791C
Mac, connected via USB
I ran a printhead alignment from the front panel (Power+ Cancel 0x, OK3x). It showed no black or lt cyan (or cyan I’m not sure) and I have run the alignment several times with just the faintest bit of improvement. I’m now getting just a little bit of ink from the black and cyan, but I’m nowhere close to good. I’d like to run the Printhead recovery functions – but – the printer is “stuck” in Printhead Alignment mode. When I turn it off and back on it requests paper and then runs the alignment again.
It seem like it does not want to do anything until the alignment test is good. Is there a way to get out of this cycle? I’d like to run the printhead recoveries, see if I can get ink flowing, before I spend on new heads, cartridge or tube assembly.
Thanks Thomas for this awesome forum – thank you to everyone else for sharing your discoveries and knowledge.
-William
Your printheads and/or feed tubes are clogged. Do the simple thing first. Pull one of the bad printheads, wipe it in acetone (careful! Do not soak it in acetone – the plastic will melt) then flush with tap water. Retry. If that fails, access the feed tubes and check for clogs – flush or replace. – Ed.
Thank you for the best how-to I’ve ever seen for adding a card to a Mac Pro. The clarity and precision of the text and photos are exemplary. It’s a pleasure reading the work of someone who is articulate and takes the time to sweat the details. I followed the URL back to the other sections of your website and look forward to reading your blog and checking out your photos. Thanks again.
Alternative title: “It’s all a matter of perspective”. Yes, it is is amazing how facile children are with that. Great fun.
I’m at the second copy of Sigma 18-35, and have the same problem with AF. Beyond 2m there’s no tune value (set via Sigma dock) that works. At 2m it’s one value at 5m the other, at 10m… A s*ity AF performances equals a s*ity lens. Good for closeups, landscapes via LV and nothing else.
I don’t have any more time to waste on traveling to the place I’ve bought the lens (neighboring country), to argue with the store staff or to wait for another copy… So I consider it a money thrown away.
Sigma can make the sharpest lenses, but thats all for nothing with such bad AF performance. I certainly won’t by another one, and will advise everybody I know not to gamble with their time and money.
I have to agree with that sentiment. The amount of time I wasted in getting a ‘good one’ of the 35/1.4 was very costly. I would buy the 35mm Nikkor G f/1.4 next time – the premium is considerably less than my time is worth. – Ed.
Hello,
Thanks for the instructions on how to convert the UD 20mm – I followed your advice and it worked out fine.
Like the lens a lot and made some nice pictures with it through the years.
Regards,
Karl Sweden
Twenty years ago I started shooting with a Nikon FM. After 10 film cameras, I moved to a D1x last year, and then to a D2x, which I picked up for $800 with less than 1,000 clicks. I do some microstock photograph, and shoot a lot. The D2x is just fantastic. I have wondered, when doing bird photography, if there is any advantage to using the crop mode. Has anyone found that helpful?
It’s a useless feature. Cropping in camera and cropping in Photoshop yield the same IQ, but with the latter you at least have the option whether to crop or not. Crop in camera and all the extra information is lost forever. – Ed.
Thanks so much for your reply. I haven’t found many people that I can talk about the D2x with. I’ve been sharpening the photos in Photoshop with Nik Sharpener Pro, and using Topaz DeNoise to deal with the noise. I’m no expert with either Photoshop or Lightroom, but this seems to work okay.