The 20″ iMac is no more.
I have long known that one of the key dictates of being a smart investor is knowing when to cut your losses. I now know that the same applies to iMacs. It also makes sense, like with investing, to have alternatives. Read on.
The garbage awaiting collection
The repair place said they couldn’t fix the logic board from the 20″ iMac so I removed the remaining components and trashed the case, beautifully drilled as it was. A $2,000 machine dead after 30 months. Please, no cracks about buying AppleCare. When you pay a 100% premium for a machine, you should not be required to pay another 10% for insurance.
The 24″ iMac with its new graphics card is up and running so stay tuned for developments and some measurements of temperatures.
Meanwhile, I have bought a Mac Mini and an HP display. We will reuse the Apple keyboard and mouse. The display at least comes with a 3 year warranty and at $580 the Mini with a 12 month warranty is a whole lot less than a new motherboard for the dead iMac with a 3 month warranty. After selling off the bits my Mac ‘investment’ will come down maybe $200.
As we all know, the white iMacs were replaced by the aluminum-bodied ones with the ghastly glossy screens and purportedly improved graphics. So you thought the cooling problems would have been fixed by now, huh? Oh! I forget – what problems? At least, that’s Apple’s line.
Well, here’s an ad from yesterday’s Craigslist which I chanced upon when listing the components removed from the dead iMac:
It just works fries.
Not all is bad, however. One day my 24″ iMac will die and be uneconomical to repair. In my techie phase I learned some interesting things. Macs use industry standard components. They come in lovely cases. They are poorly heat engineered. They are overpriced. They are cheaper to build yourself.
Clearly, buying another iMac is out of the question. With its core audience of photographers and movie makers abandoned, and with quality control having fallen off a cliff, all that remains is the pretty looks and the high price tag. My primary reason for switching to Macs a decade ago was the software. Constantly rebooting the fraud that is Windows was getting old and OS X delivered – and continues to deliver – in spades. Rare reboots, no spam, maybe three kernel panics in ten years. That’s why I use Macs.
And, by the way, our first iMac, the lovely ‘screen on a stick’ design, remains perfectly operational to this day. Not a statistically meaningful sample, but, for this user, a meaningful fact. Too slow for heavy Lightroom work, but great for surfing and email use.
So my next desktop Mac will have the following specifications:
- 3.8 gHz Intel Quad Core CPU (Yes, 3.8)
- nVidia 9800 GT GPU with on board cooling fan and 512mB of video memory ($100 compared to $260 to replace the nVidia 7600 in my 24″ iMac)
- 700 watt power supply with dedicated fan
- ‘Superdrive’ DVD burner/reader
- 8gB of DDR3 system RAM
- Sound insulated heavy steel case with three 120mm fans
- 8 USB, 3 FW400, 2 FW800 and Dual DVI connections
- 1 terabyte HDD
Cost? $1,012 including $62 for delivery. Assembly time – 2 to 3 hours.
Number of cooling fans? 5.
Maximum temperature of any key component? 90F.
All parts easily user upgradeable at low cost as technologies improve.
And no, you cannot get it from Apple whose MacPro starts at $2,500 and which will be left in the dust by this machine. The nearest comparable Mac Pro configuration would run you $3,350, or more than three times as much. So much for all that nonsense about ‘you pay more but you get more’. And as for the ‘server quality hard disk’ in the machine (Jobs’s words, not mine) it’s nothing more than a bottom-of-the-line POS Western Digital, unlike the better quality one shown here.
Can you spell ‘Hackintosh‘?
Don’t get mad. Get even.
Here’s the build list, in case you are skeptical:
Hackintosh build list
The Intel CPU is easily and safely overclocked to run at 3.8gHz if that is your thing. Trivial to do. Every component is as good or better than its counterpart in the MacPro at a fraction of the cost. And you don’t get the single electronic part that Apple actually designed in its computers – the mother board. The one that fries. My seven year old, now a recognized Lego expert, could probably assemble the bits in an hour …. and at $5/hr, half the payroll rate of the alleged Apple ‘Genius’.
You can add a screen of your choice, but don’t waste money on the dated Apple 30″ Cinema Display (made by LG, by the way). Get the newer technology from HP, model LP3065 at $1,180 with HDCP support, and save another $720 while you are at it – why, that almost pays for the other hardware. (The Mac Display is $1,800 but you are hosed down an additional $100 for Apple Care to equal the HP’s 3 year warranty). The HP includes on site service. Nice, as you can be sure Steve Jobs ain’t coming by to fix your Apple Display when it blows. And as for the OS, use the goddamned disks that came with that iMac in the garbage. You paid for them.
Will do the same next month except I will use ATI Radeon 4950 and some additional cooling systems.
And then I will also put my broken iMac in the trash.
I would stick with nVidia for the simple reason that Apple has ceased using ATI GPUs and thus you can expect no ATI drivers or support for the newest cards under Snow Leopard which, I have read, is also easily hacked.
I agree a Hackintosh is suitable revenge for the white doorstop. I met someone in France the other day running OS X on an MSI sub-notebook.
Keep us posted on how the Hackintosh progresses.
I meant ATI 4850. AFAIK ATI Radeons are nicely supported in Snow Leo
http://netkas.org/?p=128
My hackintosh will be revenge for 3 Macs bricked: iMac blue, iBook G3/800 (repaired by Apple… after 9 months died) and iMac 20 late 2006 (almost fried).
regards
Interesting development – I’ve been wanting to run OSX on a PC for a while – is there a 64 bit version?
I’d pretty much decided to keep Windows XP for work, and dualboot 64 bit Windows 7 for heavy photographic use. This might be a good alternative.
Do you know if you can dual-boot this with a Windows OS. (I run very expensive specialist pathology software which is still not certified for Windows Vista – XP only)
Hugh – you would install OS X and Windows on separate volumes on your HDD (or on separate HDDs if you prefer, though that would be wasteful IMO) and elect the boot source in the BIOS page at start up. Just Google ‘dual boot OSX Windows”.
The 64-bit version of OS X, “Snow Leopard”, will be release imminently (by the end of Q3/09) as a $29 upgrade for Leopard owners or as a standalone box for probably $120 or so. I understand it has already been hacked to run on PCs. Most of the writers on the topic have been victims of US schooling and seem unable to write a grammatically sound sentence, so some interpretation is required.