Yearly Archives: 2017

Amherst College

A lovely school in a bucolic setting.

For an alphabetical index of the New England College series of pieces, click here.

Amherst College (the ‘h’ is silent) was founded in 1821 and is a private school with just over 1,800 students and a very low student:faculty ratio. It is not to be confused with nearby U Mass Amherst with almost 20 times the number of students but just six times the number of faculty. The Amherst College endowment is seven times that of U Mass in dollars and seventy times that of U Mass in dollars per student. Draw your own conclusions. When it comes to higher education going where the money is is generally a winning strategy.

Now it is true I am getting more than a bit tired of grey skies and lack of shadows in the snaps accompanying these pieces and, indeed, what little wan sun there was to be had when we arrived this morning promptly managed to disappear on our arrival. I sorely miss Arizona skies.



The Admissions Building was closed but a map was readily available in a box outside.


The Kirby Memorial Theater seats 400.


The Charles Pratt Dorm.


The War Memorial against the backdrop of the bucolic Berkshire Mountains.


The statue honors long time faculty member Robert Frost.


Usually it’s modern excrescences which blot the architectural copybook of New England colleges. In Amherst’s case it’s the spire remnant of the old Memorial Chapel which is not only hideous, it’s also hideously out of place in front of the Art Museum.


Barrett Hall is the center for French, Spanish and German teaching.


A bucolic setting.


The Robert Frost Library.


Henry Ward Beecher was an 1834 grad known for his support of the abolition of slavery.


The Converse Memorial Library, by McKim, Mead and White, dates from 1917. The Frost Library replaced it and Converse is now used for administrative offices.


The Ames Music Center just squeaks by stylistically.


Lovely architecture of the Dining Hall.


Edward Whitman Chapin Hall is home to the Departments of History and Religion.


The YĆ¼shien Garden is in the Japanese style, and quite lovely, is somewhat hidden away.


The reception area of the Lord Jeffrey Inn in the town square. The property, along with the excellent adjoining 30Boltwood restaurant where we enjoyed lunch, belongs to Amherst College. The clerk informed us that Amherst students can enjoy exchange education at nearby U Mass Amherst, Hampshire, Mount Holyoke and Smith Colleges, despite the ‘women only’ status of the last two.


Famous Amherst alumni include Emily Dickinson, David Foster Wallace, Calvin Coolidge who perfected his non-speaking skills here, Jeffrey Wright, the estimable economist Joseph Stiglitz, Burgess Meredith and the silent comedian Teller, doubtless a fan of Coolidge’s. The list is out of all proportion to Amherst’s small size, which speaks volumes.

For images from a visit to the Mead Art Gallery at Amherst College, click here.

Yale University

One of the Big Three.

For an alphabetical index of the New England College series of pieces, click here.

Along with Princeton and Harvard, there is not a lot that can be said about Yale which has not already been committed to paper. Founded in 1701 there are 5,500 undergraduates and 6,900 postgraduates here and the university can lay claim to being the alma mater of many US presidents, including a recent one who is now likely happy to be rated the second worst, courtesy of the current incumbent.

Part of the city of New Haven in Connecticut, the campus spans an expansive 260 acres and while there is not that sense of perfect integration of the parts into a whole so evident at, say, Wesleyan or Tufts, the scale is necessarily larger here, given the five times greater number of students. In addition to the usual gamut of academic buildings, the campus includes the Peabody Museum of Natural History and the Yale Art Center, both major museums in their own right.

While we originally contemplated a weekday visit to enjoy a guided tour, the weather forecast is so bad (how does anyone survive the simply awful weather in New England?) that we toured unassisted on a Saturday and, in the event, had a wonderful time.



Residential housing.


Benjamin Silliman, Professor of Natural Sciences 1802-53, the first scientist to distill petroleum.


The power behind Protestantism. The Masonic Temple.


The path to the Peabody Natural History Museum.


Torosaurus Latus, a relative of the Triceratops, outside the Peabody.

Giant squid inside the Peabody.

The beautiful Business School building.


Yale and Peking University established a Joint Undergraduate Program in Beijing in 2006; the Yale-China Association predates that effort by almost a century.


Gothic and Georgian pediments.


Student housing.


The Yale Art Museum:

The Museum has a superb collection, not least when it comes to Edward Hopper, five of whose best works were on display at the time of our visit.



While the Peabody charged us $15, the Yale Art Museum is free.


Taken in 1957 when he was just 22, Lee Friedlander did an exceptional job of documenting an early MLK freedom rally. The pictures have an extraordinary intimacy.


How my legs feel after dozens of miles on New England campuses.


The central staircase.


The Museum maintains the classical Gothic lines of much of the University.


The Art Garden.


With a $25bn endowment expertly managed by Dave Swenson, Yale can afford to splash out on the floral side of things.


In addition to five US Presidents both good and awful (mostly awful), Yale alumni include Meryl Streep, the great public servant John Kerry, Anderson Cooper, Cole Porter, Jodie Foster, Janet Yellen, Edward J. Norton, Sigourney Weaver, that great debunker of morons Paul Krugman, Paul A. Giamatti, Paul Newman, Sinclair Lewis, Thornton Wilder, Elia Kazan, George Roy Hill, Oliver Stone, Brian Dennehy, Sam Waterston, Sam Wagstaff, Charles Ives, Richard Serra, William Boeing, Indra Nooyi, Murray Gell-Mann, Benoit Mandelbrot, Frank Shorter, Sargent Shriver, Eero Saarinen, Benjamin Spock, Maya Lin and Eli Whitney. Stated differently, find a bunch of successful people in any discipline and a disproportionate number will be Yale grads.

Brown University

Stunning.

For an alphabetical index of the New England College series of pieces, click here.

Founded in 1764, Brown is one of but nine schools dating from before the American Revolution. A healthy endowment sees to it that the 6,300 undergraduates and 2,200 post graduates are ensconced in pristine surroundings on the gorgeous 143 acre campus in beautiful Providence, Rhode Island. Size appears to be inversely proportional to quality for this, the smallest of the US states by area, is also home to its finest arts school, the neighboring Rhode Island School of Design. Indeed a shared double degree with RISD is to be had for five year students.

Brown was the first Ivy League school to offer engineering studies and also has the distinction of permitting students to design their own courses. Nothing is mandatory here. So well known is this concept that it is now known as the ‘Brown Curriculum’.

Prize winners galore grace the alumni and faculty counts here, from Nobels and National Medal of Sciences winners to Rhodes Scholars and MacArthur Genius fellows. This is as good as it gets in American academia.

The campus is a thing of beauty and my son and I enjoyed a splendid – and rarely dry – day in wandering around. We were made to feel very much at home by staff and students in this beautiful setting, a testament to the civilizing power of the liberal psyche, one much under attack today by the forces of darkness seeking to usurp the American Republic. Brown fills you with the knowledge that this evil is but a temporary setback to progress from the Age of Enlightenment on. This is not a flame that can possibly be extinguished and if we came away encouraged by this realization then that is how it should be after a visit to one of the world’s greatest schools.

Little narrative is needed for what follows. Just gaze on the sublime beauty, the many quiet places, the expanses of lawns and air which make this a hallowed academic setting.




Brown’s mascot is the bear.


The cupola in octagonal Robinson Hall, once a library, now the Department of Economics.


The reading room in the Hay Gallery, recently restored – right down to modern furniture – with a grant form India’s Mittal family. Mittals graduated here in ’12 and ’15. And we seek to deny their compatriots American citizenship?


‘Idee de Pietra’ by Giuseppe Penone. High whimsy.


Hammock studies.


Untitled (Lamp/Bear) by Urs Fischer. Public art is everywhere on the campus grounds.


Even Brown cannot escape the obligatory ugly. This high rise gaol masquerades as the List Art building.


The Wriston Quad, named after a former President of the University.


An appropriately named crossroad on which to conclude our tour.


There are so many prominent alumni of Brown that it’s hard to know where to start. They include the great philanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr., donor of a magnificent library on the campus, Janet Yellen, the most powerful person in the world, Ted Turner, Oren B. Cheney, the founder of Bates College, George Kidd Teal, inventor of the first silicon transistor, Emma Watson, Walter/Wendy Carlos of synthesizer fame, and if that’s not enough the list of distinguished faculty members is every bit as long.

The Library, Portsmouth, NH

Craftsmanship.

The Library is a restaurant located in the Rockingham Hotel in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.


The Langdon dining room.

My son and I enjoyed a splendid lunch here. It’s a haven of tranquility and even the tab is presented inserted in a book – ours came in a Danielle Steel, so make of that what you will!

The Hotel itself was the site of the negotiation of the 1905 Russian-Japanese Peace Treaty whose successful conclusion earned Teddy Roosevelt the Nobel Peace Prize, a far better use of his time than shooting wild game.

Here’s the Hotel from across the road with the African Burying Ground Memorial in the foreground:

iPhone6 snaps.

Bates College

A jewel in Lewiston, Maine.

For an alphabetical index of the New England College series of pieces, click here.

While the old mill town of Lewiston appears to be successfully gentrifying, its ‘dark, satanic mills’ being converted to businesses, restaurants and quality housing, no such excuse need be made for Bates College, a true jewel. The campus is gorgeous, and Lewiston happens to be one of the safest cities in the United States.

On the small side as US campuses go with but 1,800 undergraduates, and dating from 1855, Bates spans 133 acres on the Lewiston campus, and manages to be much of a muchness. Everything is where you want it and it is the second school we have visited where not a single building is out of place, regardless of age. Indeed, one of the most recent, Pettengill Hall, is one of the best, with a magnificent sweep of bay windows and the high Perry Atrium inside making for a special place to meet, to learn and to think.

A dear friend who graduated here – and also met his future spouse on campus – writes:


Without naming names, I can guiltlessly disclose this long held secret!

Bates is accused of being the costliest private school but the distinction is meaningless. These New England private colleges do not compete on price, having no need to do so in an environment of massively excess demand. So the Bates ‘premium’ is but pennies on a comparative basis. If Bates has a challenge it is to increase its endowment where, on a dollars per student basis, it’s at the low end of the range. Let’s hope its modest premium allows this to be done.


Winston approaches the Gomes Chapel, modeled on King’s College Chapel, Cambridge.


The Gomes Chapel.

Inside the Chapel.


The Coram Library.


Hathorn Hall is the oldest academic building, dating from 1856.


The George and Helen Ladd Library. Modern, yet nicely integrated.


Inside the Ladd Library.


The magnificent sweep of the north facing bay windows of Pettengill Hall, dating from 1999. Proof positive that ‘modern’ need not be ugly.


The Perry Atrium inside Pettengill Hall. The wooden flying buttresses support the domed ceiling.


A high aesthetic inside Pettengill Hall. No improving on this. Economics, a Bates specialty, is one of the subjects taught here.


Lake Andrews provides scenic beauty.


Yet another Olin building. Under renovation during our visit.


The Dining Hall. Another example of a newer building well integrated into the College’s whole.


The Carnegie Science Center.

Bates alumni include Bryant Gumbel, Robert F. Kennedy, the architects Buckminster Fuller and Minoru Yamasaki, Doris Kearns Goodwin, Dean Kamen the great engineer and inventor, George Mitchell, Jan Masaryk, Edmund Muskie and Olympia Snowe.