Beautiful stodge.

Sure, British cooking is not about to challenge France for culinary domination. Much of it is unimaginative, strong flavors are avoided, spices are strangers and carbohydrates and frying dominate.

But check out some of these delicacies: Bangers and Mash, Toad in the Hole, Steak and Kidney Pie, Braised Brisket with Dumplings, Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding, Shepherd’s Pie, Beef Wellington, Liver and Onions, Lamb with Mint sauce …. well, you get the idea. Classics all. And the greatest, Fish and Chips.

And one of the finest ways of discovering these meals, many predating Shakespeare, is in the book illustrated above. Copies are occasionally available from the usual used sources (Abe, Alibris, Powell’s, Strand) and the illustrations are, well, mouth watering. The photography is beautiful.

But I cannot pull this tome from my cookbook collection without a merry chuckle, for I am always reminded of the remark of an American friend to whom I was extolling its virtues. After glancing at the title, he carefully weighed it up in one hand, remarking “Strange that it’s so thick, really”. Ha!

Whatever you think of English cooking, if you need to enslave unarmed nations, sell opium by the boat load or import tea on the cheap, this book has what you need before setting out to pillage, plunder and steal.