Yearly Archives: 2012

D700 – first impressions

Finally here.

Taking no more than 20 minutes to walk that man about town, Bertram the Border Terrier, it figured that UPS called as the pup was out raising the leg, and the depressing little note stuck to the door said they would try delivering the D700 next Monday, signature required. The same for a delayed gift for our boy’s birthday. A call to UPS established that a visit to their warehouse between 9:00 and 9:15pm in South SF would get the packages in my hot little hands and though I turned up a few minutes early, I was quite unprepared for what followed.

First, the UPS facility is simply enormous, rows of warehouses full of trucks and boxes. Second, there was a long line of idling cars on a rainy night, all apparently waiting for the gate to open for late night pick-ups. Straight out of film noir. I got in pretty much at the back of the line and, boy, what is wrong with people? Here I am on Cloud Nine, delighted to be getting our boy’s gift and my toy, and I’m at the back of a line of the most miserable cross section of humanity on earth. I try to make conversation but it’s useless. Except for me no one wants to be here. Well, at least the charming ladies at the counter are pleasant and I leave assuring them that America is indeed a great nation.

UPS line at 9:15pm, South SF.

I get home, tuck the boy in bed, place the pup on the bed, and pop the box. Seconds later I have the 85mm f/1.8D on the body, one of the two batteries has a solid charge and I’m in there changing the defaults and Copyright data. The first impression is one of solidity, it’s not light, the fit in the hand is good, the rear LCD bright and the finder a pleasure to use. The 0.72x magnification (same as on a Leica M2) is just right. The previous owner has left the shutter on high speed sequential and I startle myself when first releasing the shutter with the machine gun result. My misionary work with the manual the last two days pays off and it’s not too hard to figure most things out. Best of all, the two batteries provided both show ‘new’ status, attesting to the light use the body enjoyed with it’s first owner. And yes, it’s a USA import, as the box testifies.

I contemplate installing the Upstrap but it’s late, the strap will fit a dozen ways with only one of those right, so I call it a day. This Nikon D700 computer can wait another day.

More anon.

Modeling fee? Outrageous.

D700 options

How best to set these?

Reading of the wretched Nikon D700 manual surfaced some interesting questions. I read it using Good Reader on the iPad where I keep all my camera manuals. It’s a simple matter to annotate pages for subsequent follow up.

I short listed a few issues which I shared with a friend who is a D700 expert, as follows (parentheses refer to page numbers in the English manual):

In camera © Copyright information (page 343):

You can add this in the camera so it’s recorded with every picture. Those using Lightroom can also add it on import, but this seems a more robust approach as there is nothing to forget. Use the wrong import setting in LR and the information will missing if not recorded in the camera.

Non-CPU lenses (210):

Most older Nikon lenses (pre G and D series) have no CPU yet will fit the D700, some with reduced functionality. If you are prepared to cope with the rigors of manual focusing there is a cornucopia of ridiculously cheap Nikkors out there which will work, and which can be programed into the D700 to present correct EXIF data. Doing so also enables automatic power zoom with select Nikon Speedlight flashguns. A quick check discloses that some of the all time classic Nikkors of the film era, like the 20mm f/3.5, 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, 55mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.8, 105mm f/2.5, 180mm f/2.8, 200mm f/4, 300 f/4.5 and 500mm Mirror, are not only abundantly available lightly used, but prices are generally below $400, sometimes below $100! For the rarely used optic for a special occasion snap there’s much to like here. Indeed, I have a hankering for the 500mm Mirror optic. The D700’s viewfinder has a focus confirmation light to tell the user when the lens is in focus. It’s not AF but it beats nothing.

The 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor from the KEH catalog – $89!

Custom Menus (364):

You can create your own custom menu for frequently accessed options on the rear LCD screen.

Sensor cleaning (393):

You can have this automated at On, Off, On and Off or manual! My colleague uses manual, used as needed. This approach saves wear and tear and speeds start-up time.

Active D-lighting (179):

An enhanced dynamic range setting which my friend believes is largely obsoleted by the enhanced controls in Lightroom 3. I’ll have to experiment with this one. Anything which reduces post processing time is a good thing in my book.

Color Space (181):

You can set sRGB or Adobe RGB. I use the latter for the broadest color gamut.

12-bit or 14-bit RAW files (68):

The 14-bit setting is reputed to store more shadow detail, at the penalty of file size.

Bob Johnson has an interesting article, referred to me by my colleague, on the merits of 14-bit, and suggests that one good use for the Custom menu is to include a 12/14 bit toggle. Presumably the 14-bit setting would be reserved for very high dynamic range subjects where exposure is for the highlights, with consequent underexposure of the shadows, the latter being recovered in post processing.

Be sure to check Arun Gupta’s Comment below on why 14-bit and Adobe RGB go together.

GPS geotagging (213):

The D700 accepts Nikon’s shoe-mounted GPS unit ($190) with a wire and plug for the socket on the front, and stores geotagging information with the picture file. Aftermarket units sell for $67 and the trick.com site has an article explaining why you should save $123. I’m no geotagging maven but it can be fun and a small unit at low cost is tempting.

So there’s lots of value added from reading the poor manual, and the D700’s design is clearly one aimed at conferring a high level of flexibility in use.

Manual change

An opportunity.

The digital camera is the most complex consumer device made. Not complex as in lots of parts from disparate manufacturers, like a car, but complex in the sense that the combination of buttons, menus and control dials results in millions of potential combinations.

I am a huge believer in learning all the functions of my cameras, as this enhances my ability to choose which to set-and-forget and which I need in daily use. If you don’t know what’s available you cannot make this decision correctly. A good user manual is key to this learning process.

There are but two models for gadget manuals out there. I call the first the Arrogant Model, typified by the near complete absence of instructions shipped with any Apple gadget. The arrogance stems from the belief that “our gear is so simple to use that no instructions are needed”. This results in a user who is so clueless about leveraging his investment that his smart phone become as dumb as its owner. Apple does a superb manual for the iPhone, for example, but good luck trying to find it. And speaking of dumb, the other manual model is indeed the Dumb Model, used by everyone else. (OK, there’s also the Bauhaus Model where you retain some unemployed graphics art student to illustrate everything with line drawings which are unintelligible in any language. You save the translation fees and insult your buyer in the process. No repeat sales for you).

The D700. A study in complexity. British Bulldog sadly not included.
I always get a kick when I see that ridiculous question mark at left.

I am stuck with the Dumb Model. With a view to getting a jump on things, while my Nikon D700 is subjected to the tender mercies of UPS, I downloaded the User Manual from Nikon or, more correctly, the three manuals they offer, two being addenda. What prompted this action was that in many of the secondhand sale listings snaps I perused before plonking down my cash, there was the ominous presence of not one but two thick paperbacks. This suggested there’s a lot going on here and the main download confirmed my fears, coming in at no less than 444 pages. As I recall the pocket booklet for the Canon 5D was all of 50 pages or so. Yes, it was poor, but 50 pages of bilge pump imitation beats 444.

First there’s the obligatory dozen pages from scummy lawyers telling you not to feed the baby discharged batteries. When will companies learn that this nonsense never keeps them out of court? Cynically labelled ‘For Your Safety’ (meaning ‘Screw you if we screw up’) these come in handy in the event of a toilet paper shortage. And the rest is predictably awful, a dry recitation of each control, sorted by button or menu choice.

The D700 manual. How not to write a user guide.

There is no thought of activity- or goal-based learning here. Button A does this, dial B that, and so on. And it’s not like I’m singling out Nikon. The manuals for the Panny G1 and G3 are comically inept, in addition to being authored in Chinglish. Between 200 and 300 pages long, I have yet to figure out why the AE lock button assignment in my G3 refuses to ‘stick’ between uses, no thanks to the manual. Coincidentally, our TV is a Panasonic (dollar loyalty, not brand loyalty) and the manual is no less than 60 pages, clearly from the same Shakespearean. And this for a product with a 42″ screen and speakers, crying out for an interactive on-screen narrated guide. (The manuals for the old film Leica M cameras were great but, then again, it doesn’t take Einstein to explain a shutter dial, a focus and aperture ring and wind and film rewind levers. And the Germans have been practicing their English for most of the past century, so it was pretty good).

Maybe the lack of good camera manuals is the result of everyone’s being so awful that there’s no need to compete and run up costs, yet I cannot but think that there is a great profit opportunity here for the smart manufacturer. The dictates are simple:

  • Hire someone whose native language is English (immigrants are a good bet as they generally have better grammar)
  • Make sure he is a great photographer (so that rules out all the fanboy sites)
  • The author has to be a skilled technical writer (which rules out 99+% of English speakers)
  • All marketing people excluded
  • Absolutely no lawyers allowed
  • All legal disclaimers printed on a roll of toilet paper, shipped separately to the buyer
  • Pay the author $100,000 for 3 months’ work
  • Make all design engineers available to the writer at his beck and call
  • Add professional videos and ship these on a free flash card with every camera
  • Add interactive help files to the LCD screens found in every digital camera
  • Fly out the usual whores reviewers from NYT, WSJ, Time, etc. first class to the factory – just like Apple does
  • Waste no time marketing to the fanboy sites. They are sold already.
  • Be sure the members of the Fourth estate are given two of everything free – one for the journalist, the other to sell tax free
  • Call the gifts ‘Long term loans’ to avoid any ethical issues***
  • Provide them with whatever extra curricular activities they desire – look, these are gear reviewers who cannot get a date
  • Bask in the glory of your paid copy. “Canikolypuji revolutionizes user friendly camera design”
  • Clean up at the cash register

*** Tricky one that. When companies like Olympus can engage in a decade long fraud that makes the boys at Enron look like pikers, ethics may well be a tough concept to grasp.

As author, a writer/photographer of the caliber of a Martin Evening is what is called for here. If you cannot take pictures you have no business writing camera manuals. And if you can write well there’s no reason to think you can take pictures. The writer must be adept at both.

OK, so what with the author’s fee, the dancing girls, five star accommodation and related production costs, you are out $500k for a series of guides for your 5 camera DSLR range, say. Your gross margin is 30% so you have to sell another $1.5mm in hardware just to break even. At an ASP of $750 you have to pick up 2,000 conquest sales from the competition. Doesn’t seem so hard now, does it? And each additional sale thereafter falls straight to the bottom line.

Meanwhile, I’m back to jumping around the 444 page wonder from Nikon in the hope I might actually figure out how to use this complex computer that just happens to make photographs, before it darkens the front porch.

Sensor (non)sense

Forget theory.

I am tired of reading high falutin’ theories about digital sensor limitations. Diffraction this, pixel size that. Frankly, none of this meshes with my experience which is that the only objective measure is …. subjective.

Yesterday Nikon announced its latest full frame DSLR, the D800, with a 36mp Sony sensor. That’s more than three times the pixels in the D700, which is renowned (along with the like sensor in the D3) as the class leading low light/high ISO performer. If it measures up then a lot of people will have their Nikkors in a twist as the sensor will brutally disclose the shortcomings of their non-pro grade optics.

The D800 sensor.

Now I’m reading that D800 users will find that even their pro lenses are not good enough for the new sensor. The oft read statement is that “the sensor outresolves the lens”. Poppycock. A perfect example is my experience with the G1 and G3 Panasonics, with MFT sensors whose area is just 25% of full frame. When the 12mp G1 sensor gave way to the 16mp G3 version there was lots of noise about …. noise. As in “the new sensor will be too noisy, it has too many pixels”. Utter nonsense. Large continuous tone areas with the G3, using the same lenses as on my G1, are so superior for lack of noise that it’s simply no contest. I’m talking based on 18″ x 24″ prints here. Scale that sensor up to full frame and you have a 64mp monster. And why not if it’s better? We can expect to see pixel counts increase for the foreseeable future.

Another example which makes a complete nonsense of pixel counts in the opposite direction is the Canon 5D. This was a mere 12mp if I recall, yet mine would yield superb huge prints from that low pixel count sensor. By all accounts the Nikon D700 in the mail to me is comparable, with even better low light performance. I bought that body fully aware that it was about to be obsoleted by the D800, widely rumored at 24-36 mp. I don’t need the movie mode and pixel count is meaningless to me. Only the results count.

Bottom line? Forget the pixels. Look at big prints.

And if you want real bragging rights, get the Nikon 800E which deletes the anti-aliasing (jaggie removal) filter. It’s extra, of course:

Nikon chutzpah. Charge more for less.

More seriously, it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that the D800E, with its sharper image, will sound the death knell of ridiculously priced medium format digital cameras and their massive lenses. Henceforth, billboards and Safeway delivery trucks will be decorated using massive enlargements from a four pound camera/lens combination costing less than one Hasselblad lens and you will be able to buy four or five such combinations for the price of one Hasselblad body. And as it says ‘Nikon’ on the faceplate, instant acceptance is accorded to the owner of the hardware, no excuses required. Assuming the snapper’s expertise is in subjects other than brick walls and test charts, that is.

Nikon FF lens selection

Keeping it simple.

Yesterday I mentioned that I had bought a Nikon D700 full frame body. The project I need this for, which will span an extended period, involves documentation of a large building site and its people. The environment will be dusty and dirty, hence the appeal of the D700’s dust sealed body.

As I want to keep it simple and because Full Frame gear is so heavy and bulky, I set to determining the optimal lenses for the project. There’s no need for anything very long, but the highest optical quality is essential given the need for large prints. I set the goal of keeping things down to just two lenses, which meant either a prime ultrawide plus a medium range zoom or an ultrawide zoom with a prime portrait lens. Long time pro-Nikon using friends were invaluable in slimming down the selection based on years of practical experience with the short listed optics.

My shortlist was as follows:

Option A – ultrawide prime plus mid-range zoom:

10 ounces. I had tremendous success using the (sadly discontinued) Canon 15mm full frame fisheye on my Canon 5D and ‘defishing’ the result in LR3 for an effective focal length of 12mm. Micro contrast was decent if not fabulous, and for what you got the lens was inexpensive. So the Nikon equivalent was a natural candidate for a prime ultrawide.

32 ounces. Everyone raves about this lens as one of the very best ever mid-range zooms. It is reputed to surpass primes for sharpness, but that performance comes at a tremendous weight penalty for the fast f/2.8 aperture, which does not drop at the long end.

24 ounces. An alternative mid-range zoom which adds length but trades it for a one stop slower f/4 aperture, while also shedding weight in the process. I don’t really need 120mm but the lens came highly recommended from Nikon users I know, and they have forgotten more about the marque than I will ever know. One big advantage is the inclusion of Vibration Reduction, missing from the 24-70mm optic. Incidentally, I owned the Canon 24-105mm L lens with my 5D and while it was optically fine, it was unusable. The lens has zero sealing or baffling so, when zoomed, it acts as a powerful air blower blasting dirt onto the 5D’s sensor. It’s so bad that you can remove the lens and feel the ‘whoosh’ of air when it’s zoomed. Once I stopped using it I no longer had to clean the 5D’s sensor after each outing. The 5D/II largely fixes that with a sensor dust removal system, but that body was not available at the time I was a 5D user.

Option B – ultrawide zoom plus prime portrait lens:

34 ounces. Another optic everyone loves, very wide and very heavy. I was troubled by the exposed front glass whose profile prevents use of a protective filter, but the optics are known to be as good as it gets. A miracle of optical engineering.

24 ounces. A lens almost as wide as the 14-24, lighter, has VR (likely not needed at these short focal lengths) but with known heavy barrel distortion at 16-17mm. I downloaded a specimen imaged from Photozone, loading it in LR3 where I found that correcting the barrel distortion was very easy. The extreme edges are not the greatest at f/4 and 16mm, but quickly improve by the time you get to f/8. Otherwise it’s a crackerjack optic and much lighter than the 14-24mm. At 18mm and full aperture the only extreme edge aberration is slight color fringing, easily corrected in LR3. Definition is to die for, requiring the merest hint of sharpening in post processing. Note that Photozone’s results are for the non-IF Mark I version. Mine is the IF Mark II; we’ll see if it’s better.

13 ounces. Once again, I had tremendous results with the similarly specified Canon on the 5D. This optic has been around for ever and has a tremendous reputation. This lens is discontinued, replaced by the new ‘G’ verison which deletes the aperture ring (not needed on the D700 in any case). The older lens is a known quantity and easily found lightly used.

23 ounces. The costlier f/1.4 variant is simply faster than I need and way too heavy to carry around.

The decision:

I went with a new 16-35 zoom, which comes with a four year Nikon USA warranty. Used examples sell for just 10-15% less and do not come with a warranty – a false economy. Like all Nikon’s pro zooms, the lens is dust sealed which is ideal for my contemplated use. The wide angle range meshes nicely with my way of seeing – I tend to see ’35mm and wider’. The lens does not change length when zoomed and the rear element is fixed, so that there’s none of that dust pumping action enjoyed by Canon 24-105mm L users. The lighter weight compared with the other shorter zooms is a significant point, also. Then I added a used 85mm f/1.8 ($339). It’s not dust sealed but, at that price, who cares? And the wide aperture is ideal for close-up portraits with blurred backgrounds, something the zooms here cannot offer. At f/2.2 the 85mm is near its peak performance.

Thus the total outfit weight is D700 – 35 ounces, 16-35mm – 24 ounces, 85mm – 13 ounces, for a total of 4.5 pounds. Well, it’s not MFT but that’s the penalty you pay for full frame quality. My Panny G3 with the Oly 9-18mm, and the Panny 14-45mm and 45-200mm lenses weighs in at just 3.0 pounds and that includes a really long 90-400mm zoom. Drop the zoom and the Panny kit comes to a scant 1 pound 12 ounces which is the fairer comparison, though there’s nothing to compare with the fast f/1.8 included in the Nikon outfit. So full frame means lugging an extra 2 pounds 12 ounces – the price of respectability!

Modern DSLR users are spoiled for choice, but the above reasoning, with help from friends, got me through the jungle.