A trouble-free device.

For a company which prides itself on design, past mouse offerings from Apple have been pretty poor.

In the last decade we have had the clear plastic case single-click wired mouse which came with iMacs through maybe 2005. Then along came the Mighty Mouse with that neat little scroll sphere in the top and finally supporting left and right clicks. That one came in wired and wireless designs and after three of each I finally threw up my hands and gave up on the Apple Mouse. You see, the Magic Mouse worked fine until the scroll sphere would fail owing to the ingress of dirt and grease. While you could vigorously run the little ball around a bit on a piece of paper with the mouse held upside down, after about two or three attempts at this the scrolling feature would fail completely, and given that the mouse was sealed – except for the space around the ball – there was no realistic way of dismantling it to clean the innards. I even tried blasting contact cleaner into the small space around the ball and the thing would fail soon afterwards, shortly after my eyesight recovered from the backwash of toxic spray.

The Apple Mighty Mouse with the poorly designed scroll wheel.

One really nice feature of the Mighty Mouse was that when you squeezed the sides you could get enhanced actions; I had mine set to display the desktop. You could also program a push on the scroll ball to perform other actions and mine was set to display Dashboard widgets. Still, I thought no more of all these mouse failures until a MacMini came along to drive the home TV; Apple, squeezing the margins as usual, did not ship a mouse with the MacMini so I though, what the heck, I’ll give the new Magic Mouse a shot.

Like the Mighty Mouse the Magic Mouse uses a sensor for tracking. I wasn’t too impressed with the specifications on paper as all that multi-touch technology seemed counterintuitive on a mouse, but came to like the Magic Mouse when used on the sofa with the MacMini.

Apple Magic Mouse. No scroll wheel, no side buttons.

Scrolling with the MagicMouse is accomplished by dragging one finger vertically on the surface; side scrolling by swiping the same finger laterally. Only one finger is needed though Apple’s System Preferences ->Mouse pane shows two being used for sideways scrolling. When you are using a mouse to control a MacMini whose primary purpose is to play DVDs and Netflix, you don’t need to access features like the Desktop or the Dashboard with its widgets. On a desktop work computer these are very nice to have. Needless to add, curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try the Magic Mouse with my desktop HackPro – the desktop computer for the rest of us. At first, System Preferences->Mouse simply refused to recognize the Magic Mouse, even though System Profiler confirms that the minuscule IoGear Bluetooth adapter I have installed in one of the HackPro’s dozen USB ports enables Bluetooth. The HackPro runs OS Snow Leopard 10.6.6 and you need at least 10.6.4 for the Mighty Mouse.

IoGear Bluetooth adapter – smaller than a fingernail.

So I resorted to that repository of all that is Apple OS hacking, InsanelyMac, and one suggested solution was to install the SteerMouse utility; this I duly did, rebooted as instructed and, lo and behold, the MagicMouse was now recognized as a Bluetooth device, even though I did not even enable the SteerMouse utility, which appears in the Systems Preferences pane. So now I had a working MagicMouse but still no easy way of accessing the desktop or Dashboard using the mouse, as the side buttons of the old Mighty Mouse were no longer available to do this. Well, I had never used the ‘Active Screen Corners’ function of OS X, found in System Preferences->Exposé & Spaces->Exposé. It takes seconds to do and you get many choices for what each screen corner does.

Active screen corners in OS X

Now when I drag the mouse cursor over one of the screen corners the related action is invoked. Lower left gets me the Desktop and so on. I use a three display installation with the HackPro so ‘corner’ means the outside corners of the left- and right-handmost displays. It works well, but takes a bit of getting used to. I’m getting the hang of it.

Why use the MagicMouse in preference to the excellent RF Microsoft Mouse I have been using for well over a year now? (Yes, I know, ‘excellent’ as an adjective for a Microsoft product is not something you see that often). Mostly because the cursor action is smoother and because you don’t get the occasional bout of wild behavior which has the cursor become very jerky. This seems to occur when Time Machine is running one of its incremental backups, suggesting some sort of interference with CPU or GPU cycles. The MagicMouse does not display this erratic behavior.

The MagicMouse comes with new iMacs and only you can decide whether its shape and workings are right for your hands. One thing you can be sure of – there’s no scroll wheel to go wrong.

MagicPrefs: If you want a whole order of magnitude more programmability for your MagicMouse, download and install MagicPrefs. This utility installs in the System Preferences pane and gives you more options than you can shake a stick at. How is this possible? Well, the MagicMouse is really a touchpad, like the one on your laptop. It senses touch electrostatically, meaning that every square millimeter of its surface has an ‘address’ whose actions can be tailored. Using MagicPrefs, first you can crank up the cursor speed beyond the poky maximum Apple give you. If you use two or more displays, it’s worth it. Second, you can program gestures to access functions. For example, I have the middle click (where the scroll ball used to be) set to show the desktop and a single tap just above the Apple logo to display the Dashboard. The programmability is vast and there’s something for everyone. Do it right and you will no longer miss the side buttons of the older Mighty Mouse.

MagicPrefs at work.

In other MagicPrefs panes you can even define the location of scroll zones, meaning that left handed users can program scroll and touch zones to suit their dominant hand, as well as reversing left and right clicks. There is also a host of Drag, Pinch and Swipe motions. Extraordinary and free.

Disclosure: Long AAPL call options.

Full house sound, wirelessly.

This piece gets a bit technical so hold on to your hat; however, it may be helpful for those experimenting with AirPlay routed to multiple speakers simultaneously.

Following up on yesterday’s column on using AirPlay with TuneIn radio on an iDevice, I rooted around and found another set of Logitech powered speakers languishing in the place the black beetles call home in the garage. These are the estimable Logitech Z4i with a powered bass and two satellites, making for excellent sound. Back when I used an iMac G5 and later the ill fated 24″ iMac which fried its GPU thanks to Apple’s crappy design, the satellites velcro’d nicely to the sides of the iMac’s monitor with the bass out of sight under the workspace. I had put them away in favor of smaller desktop speakers when I built the HackPro and had quite forgotten about them.

Well, as the shared Brother printer in the office is attached to an Airport Express (AEX) as a Bonjour printer, naturally I could not leave well enough alone, realizing that I could connect these powered Logitech speakers to the AEX for yet another sound output from any iDevice. A few moments of plugging things in and TuneIn Radio sound on my iPad was coming from these Logitechs.

Now how about full house sound? Well, I can’t see any place where AirPlay on an iDevice permits selection of multiple speakers, though I would bet dollars to doughnuts that this is only a matter of time. Maybe the iPad needs to be upgraded to the multi-core ARM A9 CPU before this becomes possible. However, firing up iTunes on the HackPro, where my extensive music library resides, I clicked on the AirPlay logo and this is what I saw:

AirPlay on iTunes and the HackPro.

Clicking on ‘Multiple Speakers’ I got this selection panel:

The multiple output panel in iTunes.

I checked off all the speakers and adjusted the volume but …. the sound keeps cutting out. Selecting just the HackPro’s speakers (“Computer”) all is fine, but select any other destination alone or in addition and the sound cuts out.

Going to Utilities->Audio MIDI Setup I adjusted the output settings to the least demanding, thus (2ch-24bit is the default):

Audio MIDI settings.

This reduced the cutting out but did not eliminate it, so I’m guessing there’s some glitch either in my wifi system (the HackPro where iTunes runs uses 2.4gHz 802-11n wifi as I cannot use pure 802-11n at 5gHz as I need the 802-11g mode for compatibility with my iPhone, and do not own the latest dual band Airport Extreme). All my sound files are in uncompressed format, meaning they are large, for maximum quality. MP3 is a poor, over-compressed format for sound fidelity. The file size doubtless is not helping matters.

For further diagnosis I went to the MacBook Air which uses 802-11n wireless, started iTunes and tried playing a track stored locally in iTunes on the MBA. Perfect. I could enable all remote speakers and all played fine with individual volume control available for each, suggesting that the lower speed of the 2.4gHz 802-11n on the HackPro may be a limiting factor. There are a lot of variables here so it could well be something else, but I expect I’ll get there through a process of elimination.

Getting ambitious, I next loaded the remote library on the MacBook Air from the HackPro, where iTunes->Advanced->Turn On Home Sharing is set to ‘On’. Well, the stuttering, while greatly reduced, was still there so clearly there is a bandwidth or speed issue with the HackPro which looks like it needs 802-11n. Meanwhile, I’ll just move my favorite tunes from the iTunes library on the HackPro to the one on the MacBook Air for those occasions when whole house sound is called for.

An encouraging experiment.

Update: A solution to the stuttering problem:

I put on the old thinking cap and took the resident Border Terrier for a walk. Always clears the mind, I find. I had never paid any attention to the sound technology in the HackPro where my iTunes library resides. All I need it to do is drive pokey desktop speakers for the usual mail sounds, etc. I do not listen to music through its speakers. Its 802.11g should be more than adequate for routing sound files, even if uncompressed. So could it be the Digital to Analog Converter in the HackPro that was choking? Well, I fired up that ancient old iMac with the 1.25 gHz IBM G4 CPU and a scant 1 gB of RAM which we have owned some ten years now. It’s mostly used for web surfing and is by far the most reliable Mac I have ever owned.

I reckoned that I would simply update iTunes on the iMac (which runs Leopard, the last version of OS X supported on the G3/4/5 CPUs) and then point iTunes to the library of music on the HackPro. While the iMac uses 802-11n it would still be no faster than 802-11g as the slowest component in the equation is the HackPro and it’s 802-11g. But, and here’s the key, I would be using the iMac’s DAC to convert the digital stream to analog sound and my bet was that even the ancient DAC in the iMac would be pretty good, given Apple’s focus on sound reproduction.

And this proved to be the case! I told the iMac to send sound to three speaker sets (Apple TV, Office and Dining Room) and it is playing perfectly for the past hour. If it does start to stutter, I’ll simply move the library of music to its internal hard drive, taking the HackPro’s poky wifi out of the equation, but so far it’s working fine. I suppose I could also place the iTunes files on an external hard drive connected to the iMac but Apple has said that it does not support external HDDs for use with AirPlay, so I’m not pushing that angle. It may work. It may not. What is tremendous is that not only does this ancient hardware support AirPlay with the latest iTunes download (congratulations, Apple!) but sports a decent DAC which is better than the PC-grade one in the HackPro.

This analysis seems to make sense. The old iMac is receiving a digital file and locally converting it to analog. The original approach had the HackPro sending out an analog file to the speakers and, I’m guessing, that’s larger than the pre-DAC-processed digital file. The speakers attached to the HackPro worked fine with no stuttering as they are hard wired, whereas the remote ones stuttered owing to their use of wifi for reception. So it’s either a slow DAC in the HackPro or the lack of 802-11n in that machine.

Another alternative is to retrofit the HackPro with a better DAC but, frankly, I can’t be bothered and so far my total investment in this project is one AEX for $88. That’s enough!

Bottom line? If you have an old G3/4/5 Mac in the home, consider making it a music server for use with AirPlay.

Meet my new old music server.

Second update:

After two hours of music play I would still get the occasional stutter. So I moved my iTunes library to the internal drive of the G4 iMac and loaded the library from there. After two further hours of listening there was no more stuttering.

…. when it comes to backing up.

A while back a fellow photographer mentioned to me that he used Apple’s Time Machine utility and found it a blessing when trying to recover previous layered images in Photoshop, after accidentally flattening the current version and losing all layers of the photograph on his working hard drive. Unlike regular backups which overwrite a file with the latest version, Time Machine maintains an intact catalog of all the versions of a file as it changes. So if you need to recover from destructive edits, it’s just the ticket.

I confess I pooh-poohed the idea as I don’t believe in any back-up that you cannot boot from, and while Time Machine back-ups can restore to drives which are bootable, you cannot boot from the Time Machine back-up itself.

But as this bit of wisdom came from a person whose views I respect, I slept on it and concluded there was a place for Time Machine in my back-up strategy which, troublingly, does not include an off site back-up. My MacPro has a 1tB boot drive and a like internal clone, to which an incremental bootable back-up is made every night using a scheduled task in Carbon Copy Cloner. But both boot and back-up drives reside in the same location inside the same Mac Pro. Catastrophe at that location would wipe me out. And cloud computing storage for large photo files is still a thing of the future, as broadband speeds in the US are simply too slow to upload and download large files.

So I messed about a bit with Time Machine and while I care little for all the glitz and fireworks of the interface, the application is easy to use and after the first backup (very slow – 4 hours to backup 400gB – with some performance drag on the Mac) incremental back-ups are fast. Because the volume of data being backed up incrementally is small, there’s no noticeable performance penalty. Time Machine saves hourly backups for the past 24 hours, daily backups for the past month, and weekly backups for everything older than a month until the HDD is full. After that, it’s first-in-first-erased.

But I did not want to relocate a drive enclosure daily. I required something small and easily carried – the easier the better and the more likely I would actually behave and take it home! Backup strategies dictate paranoia and discipline. Discipline is sloth’s foe and we are all, by inclination, slothful.

The cheapest solution I could find was this:

The Aluratek plug-in backup cradle. Blue means on, red means working.

For the grand sum of $24.95 from B&H, one of these Aluratek cradles was delivered, postage paid, and plugged into a USB port. Your naked drive of choice – it can be any 2.5″ or 3.5″ SATA drive – plugs into the top and is released by pressing the button, like on a toaster. While there’s no fan, the device sits in the open, so is reasonably ventilated and, given its light duty cycle after the first core backup, heat is not an issue. “Warm to the touch” describes it.

Opinions of the required size of Time Machine HDDs are all over the lot. Obviously, as a minimum the Time Machine HDD should be as large as the volume of data on your source HDD plus some space for historical back-ups of changed files. The more generations of data you want to store the larger the required TM HDD. On the other hand, I can’t see wanting to go back too far in time. This assumes I realize I have messed up before too much time passes, so that the last good version of whatever I messed up is still available. Further, as my internal HDD is relatively mature, meaning the rate of change of bytes in percentage terms is low, I tend to think too much excess capacity is a waste.

However, as my boot disk is 1.0tB I plugged in a 1.5tB 3.5″ SATA HDD into the Aluratek and let Time Machine do its thing. With only 400gB on the internal drive, 0.5tB – 0.75tB would have done fine, but the incremental cost of the larger drive, at some $30-50 more, is so low as to make no material difference in exchange for the peace of mind. The sledgehammer solution and almost certainly overkill.

Now I simply unplug the naked drive after ejecting it from the Desktop (right click on the mouse) and pop it in my shoulder bag before going home for the day. On reconnection, Time Machine recognizes it within 30 seconds and confers the appropriate green icon on the drive which appears on the Desktop.

I really suppose I should use a grounding strap when removing the HDD from the Aluratek cradle and an antistatic bag to transport it, but I am bothering with neither and all is well after a month of use. We’ll just see how it goes. With the internal redundant backup HDD in the MacPro I simply have iCal send me a monthly reminder to check that I can boot from the backup drive. But Time Machine backups are not bootable. So how do you check them? Well, there’s a clever Time Machine Buddy widget which tells you if everything ran smoothly – worth checking now and again. Typically, I’m finding incremental Time Machine runs are reported as no more than a minute or two in length by Time Machine Buddy, which provides a useful log of what was done by the application.

If the minimum 1 hour backup frequency of Time Machine is too frequent, you can use a free application named Time Machine Editor to extend it.

Another interesting point of discovery is determining how many remove/replace cycles the HDD and the Aluratek can handle. The HDD depends on contact strips and the Aluratek on wipers, both of which wear with use. If they survive a couple of years I will feel fine about my investment.

More paranoia:

I’m beginning to sound like Andy Grove of Intel fame (“Only the Paranoid Survive”) but my pictures are precious to me. So what if a large surge or electromagnetic wave takes out my two internal drives and the Time Machine drive simultaneously while the Time Machine drive is connected? I’m sunk. So I suppose I really should rotate two Time Machine HDDs with one always in the remote location.

Of course, the minute I adopt that strategy, some nut (or divine providence) will drop a Big One on Silicon Valley and then all my redundant drives are toast. But so am I. So in that case I do not care. On the other hand, if an earthquake takes out the Bay Area and I survive, maybe one of the two HDD locations gets lucky. Oh! boy, guess I need another 1.5tB HDD!

One note of caution. Time Machine software is also available packaged with an HDD in a white plastic box from Apple, named Time Capsule. This adds a hard disk to the software and, as is common with Apple products, places looks above longevity. Not only is the plastic case a very poor conductor of heat (in fact it acts as an insulator, trapping heat inside) the box has no fan, meaning it overheats. Further, it uses wireless for the data stream. You are going to trust your precious backup to flaky wireless? No wonder, then, that the web is replete with complaints of Time Capsules having high failure rates. Save your money. Buy your own properly ventilated, hard wired, external drive enclosure and have something that lasts longer than the warranty period, while saving money in the process.

The online backup alternative:

Why not just use an online backup service. In a word, because it’s useless for large files. Here’s why.

My upload speed on DSL is 0.64 megabits/second. At best. 1 megabyte=8 megabits, so that translates to 0.08 megabytes/second.

My Lightroom catalog is 87.66 gB, so it would take 87.66 x 1000/0.08/60/60/24 = 12.7 days to upload it for storage.

Now, apart from the fact that this would completely clog up my DSL, what do you think the chances are of an uninterrupted 12+ day period for this upload?

Then add another 53.2 gB for my iTunes library, and 28.4 gB for my iPhoto library and all the other things and …. well, you get the picture.

On line storage is simply not a practical answer with our slow broadband speeds. The cost is also high – $50-$100 a year and good luck getting more than a gigabyte or two in space. By contrast, the 1.5 terabyte hard drive I am using cost $140 and has a 5 year warranty, so the maximum cost is $28/year – and that’s for 1,500 gigabytes. Not to mention nearly instantaneous retrieval in the event of catastrophe. And by the way, what makes you so sure that the online service, operating in a competitive environment with razor thin margins, will be around tomorrow? Or that their backups are safe? Or what if some crook at their end steals your personal data? Sorry, this approach fails risk analysis on so many issues it is simply a non-starter for me.

On a related note, there’s something awe inspiring about having one or two terabytes in a jacket pocket. Doubtless, 2.5″ drives will have these capacities soon. They max out at 750gB currently, have very small 8mB buffers, are slow at 5400 rpm and expensive. Soon I expect that SDHC cards will take over. A terabyte in a stamp sized card. I still never cease to be amazed at what engineers and materials scientists have done with storage capacities. Imagine, your life’s achievements in exquisite detail on a postage stamp. Truly, modern storage technology is the hoarder’s dream come true.

Get ready to fry.

Earlier this week Apple announced the new iMacs in 21.5″ and 27″ screen sizes. The usual Cupertino Hype tells us there’s lots to like – bigger screens, slimmer, faster, etc. So it has an unusable high gloss mirror for a screen. A minor inconvenience for jewelry buyers.

But a moment’s review of the internal design gives one pause – and I’m speaking from expertise gleaned from having lost one iMac (a 20″) and almost lost another (24″) to bad thermal engineering.

Here’s how the new iMacs look under the skin:

The new 27″ iMac’s guts

Even those of you reading this without an honors degree in Mechanical Engineering (yes, I have one of those) who did not graduate at the top of your class (I did that too, around the time I took yesterday’s snap) can see the obvious design error in the older iMacs has been carried over to the latest iteration. The hot running CPU (because it is from a laptop, not built for desktop use) and the fan below are circled in red. The direction of the blast of superheated air emanating from this assembly is indicated by the green arrow. That hot air toasts the motherboard which is a seriously cramped and compromised design lifted from a laptop to ensure everything fits with Mr. Jobs’s thinness obsession.

I don’t think I need say more, even to readers who don’t know Farenheit from Celsius.

But wait, you exclaim. You said something about a toaster?

Why, yes. The bread goes in the right hand side, denoted by the yellow arrow. It has to be super slim, of course.