Old can still be good.

It would be wrong to caption this column ‘Camera of the Year’ or something similarly pretentious. After all, I’m an amateur snapper, not a journalist reviewing free hardware who gives the award to the maker paying the biggest kickback/free gear gift/trip to Osaka or the Black Forest. This is my money and my preferences we are talking about, not other people’s money and advertising dollars.

That said, I do give careful consideration to where my money goes and that is rarely to the latest and greatest. Obsolete means nothing to me, except maybe a good entry price and low depreciation, and buying new tends to be anathema to my psyche. Plus I like the gestation and discovery period that something a few years old has undergone.

So if I tell you that my favorite camera body was last made 7 years ago – aeons in DSLR terms – and the lens is no less than 4 decades old, I would be quite understanding were you to write me off as some sort of nutty eccentric, like the guys still doing wet collodion in 8″x 10″ view cameras.

However I have long known that a change of gear acts like a kick in the pants for yours truly, if nothing else to justify the outlay by making some decent pictures. And if the use experience confers tactile and mechanical pleasure, both keenly developed senses in my case, then all the better.

Click the picture.

My favorite gear of 2012 is the 2005 Nikon D2x with what I can only describe as a thrilling lens, the 50mm Nikkor-S f/1.4 pre-Ai MF lens. That’s like a 75mm portrait lens on the APS-C sensor in the D2x body and the handling, balance and ease of use of the combination are really special. The trade-off is more time in the gym to carry this far from svelte outfit around but, surprisingly, as a street snapper I have not experienced any of the ‘it’s intimidating to your subject’ syndrome that many ascribe to these big bodies. Quite the opposite. Maybe the loudly emblazoned ‘Nikon’, married of course to my massive build and no less threatening physical presence, does the trick, but I rather fancy I may be fooling myself here. Sylvester Stallone I am not.

The 50mm Nikkor-S f/1.4. One of the most beautiful optical masterpieces yet conceived.
Click the picture.

Why pay $700 for an obsolete digital body? That money gets you a competent, current DSLR body, certainly less robust, but with a sensor sporting better high ISO performance. Maybe even a decent kit lens for that price will come with it. It will not get you much in FF DSLRs, with the original and superb Canon 5D being the best bargain in that price range. It also gets you an exceptionally well sealed body which, though it has no dust removal shaker, has no need of one. My FF D700 has such a mechanism yet I am regularly cleaning the sensor with brush and blower. There’s nothing wrong with the D700. It has far better performance above ISO800 and when fitted with the MB-D10 battery pack mimics the well designed vertical shutter release on the D2x. Plus it’s FF, so wide lenses remain wide. And neither body has a reputation for problems. Older D2x bodies can exhibit the ‘blank first frame’ symptom but that’s about all I have read of. Either body will last the average amateur longer than his stay on this mortal coil.

So why did I buy it? Because it is a far greater pleasure to use than the consumer grade alternative. It will not, however, take better pictures. Those are solely a function of the person pressing the button.

The lens is another story. Click the above picture and you will see how adding a $29 CPU confers proper EXIF data recording, automatic invocation of the appropriate lens correction profile, matrix metering and transfer of aperture control back to the lens, away from the control dials on the body. That works for me as I support the lens with my left hand in any case and, as an old fart, that’s how I have been changing aperture for several decades now, and I am strictly an ‘aperture priority’ guy when it comes to auto exposure. Manual Focus? No biggie, especially with the focus confirmation LED in the Nikon’s finder, the latter made so much the better by fitting Nikon’s magnifying eyepiece. The 50mm f/1.4 delivers performance indistinguishable from the 50mm f/2 of that era, offers one stop more speed and the bulk and weight balance with the heavy body far better. Focus and aperture clicks are simply a dream to use. Compared to modern multicoated optics you maybe trade off a little contrast in strongly backlit situations, but that’s what Lightroom is for.

The whole use experience is a tactile, aural and sensual thrill. That is never lost on me. This outfit makes for an integrated whole of quite exceptional utility and ease of use.

Highly recommended – the kit will run you under $800 if you shop around and there’s no way you are ever going to wear it out. And the only people who will point and say ‘Ugh, how dated’ are not ones you want to know in any case. They are called equipment freaks and photography is anathema to them.

A new integrated unit.

I have had great success with the Aoka GPS receivers attached to my two Nikons – the D2X and D700. You can read all about the technology here, where you will see that a separate data logger must be used. This goes in your pocket and receives GPS data from the satellite and passes it to the device on the camera’s body. The logger has a small rechargeable battery which can be recharged from any USB socket on your computer.

The new integrated Aoka GPS receiver.

The new receiver integrates the data logger and receiver which I use. It’s a little wider but has the advantage that it’s impossible to forget to take the logger along with you, something I have managed once or twice. The drawback is that it drains more power from the camera’s battery as there is no separate logger battery to recharge. While I have not used it, the price is attractive. eBay asks $80, Amazon has it for more. One Amazon review has some useful battery drain metrics.

The device (model AK-G1) fits the Nikon D4/3/2 in all their iterations, D800/800E, D200/300/300s, D700 and Fujifilm S5Pro. There are other models to fit the Nikon D3100, D5000, D5100, D3200, D600 (model AK-G2), and the AK-G7 for the Nikon D7000, both costing $80 on eBay. The AK-G9 for the Nikon D90 has no integrated data logger ($40 – eBay) so a separate logger would have to be used.

The only failures I have had with mine result from ‘canyons’ in the city shading the satellite or not giving the device the 2-3 seconds to wake from sleep after a period of inactivity. I have also found that the older D2X is far faster at re-displaying the ‘GPS’ flag on the top LCD display than is the D700. So much for progress. The new device looks like a better mousetrap, especially as my separate logger can only support one camera at a time. Switch the D2X and the D700 on simultaneously and the D2X grabs and hogs the signal every time. The one logger cannot simultaneously drive two camera receivers.

Here’s the device on a Nikon DSLR – stock photo from the maker; I’m guessing it’s a D300:

As a friend of the blog and GPS expert points out, as GPS technology improves the advantage of these devices is that they can be inexpensively upgraded rather than having to buy a new camera body.

For comparison, here’s the earlier unit attached to the D2X, along with the small, separate data logger.

D2X with receiver and data logger.

I cannot find inexpensive aftermarket devices for Canon DSLRs. The factory units run $195 for a Nikon shoe-mounted unit with a clunky cord connection to the socket and $250-279 for the various Canon units. Both seem ridiculously over-priced to me.

A ‘handy’ accessory.

The Nikon MB-D10 mounted on the D700. Vertical shutter release and switch are at lower left.

My delight in discovering the superior handling of the Nikon D2X pro body with its built-in vertical handgrip and shutter release led me to track down the detachable handgrip for my D700, the MB-D10. It fits the D300, D300S and the D700 and is quite exceptionally well made. I found mine on the Fred Miranda Buy/Sell forum and some care is called for in this case. It seems there are many aftermarket knockoffs out there of varying quality and performance so it’s important to pre-clear the one of your choice as the genuine article before paying up. Mine arrived in mint condition and cost $125, half the price of a new one, and included both the Nikon and 8 x AA battery holders.

The battery versatility is exceptional. You can have the following combinations:

• Nikon EN-EL3e in the D700, nothing in the grip
• Nikon EN-EL3e in the D700, a second EN-EL3e in the grip
• Nikon EN-EL3e in the D700, 8 AAs in the grip
• Nikon EN-EL3e in the D700, Nikon EN-EL4 or EN-EL4a in the grip with the appropriate end piece
• Nothing in the D700, Nikon EN-EL3e in the grip
• Nothing in the D700, Nikon EN-EL4 or EN-EL4a in the grip with the appropriate end piece
• Nothing in the D700, 8 x AA in the grip

The EN-EL3e is the standard D700 battery, the EN-EL4 (or the higher capacity 4a) is the standard battery used in the D2X/D3/D4 pro bodies.

It gets better. If you have batteries in both the D700 and the grip, you can tell the D700 to use the in-camera batteries first or the in-grip ones first. This is in the Custom Setting Menu->d->d11->Battery order. When the camera is using the grip batteries or if only grip batteries are fitted, then the battery indicator on the top plate of the D700 is preceded by a small icon stating ‘BP’. Further, if you use AA batteries in the grip, you can tell the D700 whether these are AA alkaline, AA Ni-MH, AA lithium or AA Ni-Mn. This is in the Custom Setting Menu->d->d10->MB-D10 battery type. Best of all, if you use two sets of batteries the D700 will report on the remaining battery life and battery condition for both the in-camera and in-grip batteries. This is in the Setup menu. Phew! Nikon simply will not allow battery drain and charge reporting to go unnoticed. Extraordinary.

After sifting through all the possibilities, I discarded the idea of 8 AA cells in the MB-D10. Too heavy and prone to leaking if heavily discharged. I don’t need the vast shooting capacity which comes with using batteries in both the body and the grip so I decided on one Nikon EN-EL3e only. Finally, because the MB-D10 has to be removed to access the in-camera battery, I decided on using the EN-EL3e in the MB-D10 only, where removal and replacement are simple.

To fit the MB-D10 to the D700 a rubber contact cover on the base of the D700 is removed and the MB-D10 simply screwed to the body with a large, well serrated dial screw. Thereafter you have all the functionality of the integrated vertical grip on the D2X/D3/D4. The MB-D10 adds a vertical shutter release which can be turned off to prevent accidental use, and both front and rear control dials. The vertical grip is well contoured for the right hand and adds materially to the ease of hand-holding the camera in portrait orientation. The CF card can be accessed in the usual way through the side cover and the MB-D10 can remain in place while this is done.

The base of the MB-D10 replicates the centrally placed tripod socket of the D700 body. While the MB-D10 adds heft and bulk, it actually makes for a much better balanced camera which really comes into its own with lenses like the 180, 200 or 300mm Nikkors.

To add icing to the cake, the battery grip increases the maximum shooting rate from 5 fps to 8 fps, if that’s your thing.

Highly recommended, but don’t waste money on new retail ones or on cheap knockoffs, some of which fail to even work properly. There are many of these, the genuine Nikon versions, lightly used on the secondhand market. Just make sure you get the real thing which is distinguished by an embossed ‘Nikon’ logo on the rubber base and says ‘Nikon’ on the box. Also, if you contemplate using AA cells, make sure that the MB-D10 you buy comes with the separate AA cell holder, or be prepared to pay some $40 for the accessory.

If you are a Nikon D800/D800E user, prepare to be upset. Nikon wants $400 for a like accessory and designing the D800 body to use a different battery grip must qualify as the height of cynicism. Not good, Nikon. And most certainly not British.