Category Archives: Software

Disk Drill

Drills deep. Works, too.

The best-laid schemes o’ mice an’ men
Gang aft agley

Robert Burns

Update January 1, 2023:

Disa Drill is very much NOT recommended if you are on an older version of OS X – I’m on High Sierra 10.13 – as it will not run and the latest version requires an OS update which many older Macs will not support. You can read the whole sad story here which provides an excellent alternative which works.

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You don’t need to be a long dead Scottish poet to know that disk drives are like motorcyclists. There are those who have crashed, and those who will. And while those of the two wheeled persuasion can only hope for the best, users of the other population can do an awful lot to avoid serious injury by backing up. Onsite and offsite. On portable drives, flash drives, in the cloud, you name it. The choices have never been greater or the cost of this essential insurance lower.

Like all those who have learned the hard way, backing up is second nature to my use of computers. The thought of losing a lifetime’s pictures is not one I want to think about.

When it comes to movies on my large capacity fan cooled enclosures, each accommodates two 1tB hard drives, main and backup. These devices enjoy an easy life and after some five years’ use none of the 10 1tB Samsung HDDs has yet failed. Yet, the other day, I was nastily reminded of the dangers of complacency. As I turned one of the drive enclosures on it replied with an ominous clicking sound. The drives refused to mount (meaning they did not appear in Finder in OS Lion) and the drive head could be heard flying back and forth, hunting hopelessly. A moment later the box was apart and one of the drives mounted in that handy Aluratek external USB drive cradle. Same result, with the drive refusing to appear in Finder. So I fired up Disk Utility, and the drive was there, confirming what I suspected. The drive was fine, making no untoward sounds and not overheating, but the file directory on it was trashed. I went back to the enclosure and confirmed that other drives exhibited the same clicking symptoms, confirming that the circuitry in the enclosure was shot and had taken the directories on both movie drives with it.

Data storage on hard drives only seems like magic. A directory points to files just like an index in a book (remember books? Made from rain forests, they were an affectation of the last 600 years, now largely ended). Lose the directory and the files may still be there, but the operating system does not know where to look. Indeed, when you ‘erase’ a drive all you are doing is erasing the directory. To erase every sector takes ages and extra effort – just try that using ‘Securely erase trash” on your Mac someday.

If you go to the Paso Robles public library in lovely central coastal California’s wine country, you will find it exceptionally well stocked with classic movie DVDs. Those are the result of my gift after all were ripped and saved to hard drives. I have not owned a DVD in ages, and fail to understand how any DVD collection can be easily accessed with traditional physical storage. Plus, a bunch of drives takes up a lot less space. At an average uncompressed file size of 5gB that makes for 200 movies on a 1tB HDD, so the prospect of reacquiring 200 ‘lost’ movies and re-ripping them was not one I wanted to think about. I hunted around for disk recovery software and found myself in a mine field. Most of the applications out there come in a free download test version, allowing a disk scan to be performed but prohibiting saving of any files ‘discovered’ until you pony up for the app. Fair enough, but some of these vendors are asking $1,000 or more to capitalize on human misery. Reminds me of American health care. Worse, the level of English in many of these apps, which look suspiciously similar, suggests Eastern European provenance, a heritage more associated with software theft than file recovery. No thanks.

First I tried the Big Name file recovery app (I won’t name it here) and found yet again that it is useless. I cannot recall this app having ever done anything for me other than debiting my bank account. I looked at many other apps and settled on two to test, primarily judging on the strength of their user manuals. The more technical and detailed, the better I felt. I did the so called ‘deep scans’ on my disk, which typically take 8-10 hours (!) with the first app ($1,000) finding 40 movies, the second ($195) finding 35. Simply not good enough, and the UIs of these apps were shockingly bad – like using Windows. No meaningful progress indicators and one conked out after 8+ hours of grinding away. At least I didn’t get a blue screen. So I put the drive aside for a few weeks to allow me to do more research. Then, the other day, I was idling through the AppStore (as big and as poorly indexed a mess as iTunes) and came across Disk Drill in the Utilities section. It too offers a ‘deep scan’ option whereby the trashed directory is bypassed and the beginnings and ends of files are determined and temporarily indexed. That index then acts as a reference base for the recovery step.

Disk Drill has no detailed manual, nor is any needed, as there’s an excellent tutorial when you start the app and the maker has a fine site, written in clear grammatically correct English, complete with a forum and evidencing a very professional approach. Good English may not make for good apps, but I have rarely known bad English associated with good code. If you can’t spell, why should I think you can code?.

Well, guess what? On its 9 hour deep scan Disk Drill found all 202 files. The lot! The whole megillah. And the progress reporting is meaningful and outstanding, showing file by file detail as files are located and updating a running percentage and time remaining indicator.

The deep scan under way. VOB files are reported as ‘mpg’ which is what they really are. However, they are mercifully not Quicktime files!

Some of the file sizes looked awry, being way too large, but this looked encouraging. I decided to buy the app, which is discounted on the AppStore for $30 right now, but I went directly to the vendor’s site for the $90 Pro version. That puts more money in the developer’s pocket, requiring no payola to greedy Apple, and offers one additional key feature of which more below.

At the conclusion of the deep scan I formatted the backup drive and inserted it in a separate cradle – you don’t want to try writing recovered files back to the source drive! This is what I now saw – the funky large files had disappeared and all 202 movies were pointed to the backup drive to be retrieved and saved. Before starting the restore, I unchecked the original files found, the ones with the odd sizes under the ‘Video’ directory, leaving just the original movie files, as I knew them on my drive, checked. I suspect that the original scan is combining more than one movie file in arriving at the large file sizes, whereas the recovery choices do it right, segregating these into their component parts.

Ready to recover and save.

The scan results can be saved so that the recovery process, which can be time consuming, can be restarted later. If you have just the one Mac available that may be good idea. Run recovery at night when your machine is otherwise idle.

Amazingly, even the original directory structure had been recreated, suggesting that, as in a book, not only does the directory point to the files, but unlike in tomes of old, the files also have pointers to the directory. That’s significant as it obviates a large amount of labor in not having to recreate the original directory structure. Without this structure finding anything is virtually impossible.

I started the retrieval and save process and the app said it would take 17 hours. Heck, it would take weeks to re-rerip those movies to say nothing of the capital and opportunity costs, as I like to think that my time is still worth something! In the above snap you can see the results of the deep scan at the bottom of the screenshot where every file shows recovery possibilities as only ‘average’ – the list being Excellent, Good, Average and Poor. Not that encouraging, but I paid up, entered the registration information and started the recovery process, fingers crossed. This is what I saw a few hours later:

Well into the recovery process. The files are properly identified and broken into constituent parts.

Recovery completed.

I hopped into the restore drive, tried a few of the movies and each played perfectly, with no beginning or ending glitches. The movies were back in business. The faulty OWC dual drive enclosure was recycled, being well out of warranty, and as they only make empty enclosures now with RAID, and as I prefer simple dual drives as I do not understand RAID technology well enough to trust it, I switched to an inexpensive Vantec which has the two attributes I seek. Drives can be set up to be seen as individual disks by OS X and there’s a fan to keep things cool. And at half the price of the OWC drive, what’s not to like? Despite customer comments at Amazon, I have not found the fan noise objectionable. Then again, I don’t sit 2 feet from the enclosure.

Why the Pro version of the software? Because it comes with a feature named Recovery Vault and I’ll let Cleverfiles explain, quoting from their web site:

Why is Recovery Vault important?

To be short: recovery vault is the technology that helps you prevent data losses on HFS/HFS+ and FAT disks/partitions.

Why?

Unlike other file systems, HFS and HFS+ developed by Apple don’t have an effective way to restore deleted data. Once the data is gone, the only way to recover it is binary reading of hard drive sectors. While this is exactly what recovery algorithms in Disk Drill do, as a result you can only recover the file itself, but all its properties are gone: no original filename, no location, etc. However, the original names of the files you deleted may be the main criteria to identify your data without reading the contents. So losing this info may be crucial. Recovery vault addresses exactly this issue and helps you recover everything in HFS/HFS+ partitions exactly as it was there before.

How?

Recovery vault by CleverFiles is an integral part of Disk Drill. You may enable this technology on per-disk/per-partition basis. Disks and partitions protected with recovery vault will be monitored by the special background service of Disk Drill for data changes. When something’s deleted, recovery vault remembers all the original properties of the deleted items and makes it possible to easily recover this data later on.

Important!

Recovery vault is not a panacea, while it makes data recovery algorithms much more effective, it doesn’t provide you with 100% guarantee that ANYTHING can be recovered ANY TIME in future. Internal Mac OS algorithms extremely complex, and nobody knows or can predict when certain data is overwritten by the file system drivers.

Think of Recovery vault as a second file directory separate from the regular one, residing on the protected data disk.. It’s a nice feature and I’m installing it on all my drives.

In the following example, I have switched Recovery vault on for one of the two SSDs (SSD Bak) in my computer:

Disk drive SSD Bak in the process of being enabled for Recovery vault.

SSD Bak enabled for Recovery vault, denoted by the blue shield icon.
This took some 20 minutes on the 120gB 3gb/s SATA2 SSD.

The 170mB file created by Disk Drill resides – as a hidden file – in the root directory of the protected drive, thus:

Invisible file – exposed here – for Recovery vault on SSD Bak.

That’s a very modest overhead for the benefit gained.

I have not turned on Guaranteed Recovery as I also use a TimeMachine backup – not shown above – for versioned backups of all my drives.

Cleverfiles says that their app works for a broad variety of storage media, including flash drives, iPods, and so on. I have not tested that (and am in no hurry to do so!) but my excellent experience with this large recovery project described here makes be believe them. A great product and one to have in your armory to plan for that inevitable day all motorcyclists expect. Unlike everything else I tried it works and is reasonably priced.

Meanwhile, I’m pleased to report that my 200 ‘lost’ movie files are back online, and that I am celebrating with Frankenheimer’s 1966 classic ‘Grand Prix’ made when men died at the wheel, computers and aerodynamics were unknown and mechanical engineers ruled the world of motor racing. Great days. (OK, not the dying bit).

Update December 15, 2011:

In the spirit of full disclosure, after I paid for the app, used it and and wrote the above, the maker contacted me with a free offer of lifetime upgrades. As I wrote this well before that event, which accordingly could not color my assessment, I was pleased to accept their offer and reproduce the related email thread below:

Adobe’s Deblur

Extraordinary.

Several readers have pointed me to Adobe’s presentation of their new Photoshop Deblur plugin; there’s a video of it here which probably proves that Adobe needs to learn presentation skills more than it needs to learn C++. Stated differently, the cackling moron who bills himself as a ‘minor TV celebrity’ is enough to put you off Adobe’s fine products for a generation. Once you get past this fool, there’s a compelling demonstration by one of their engineers of Deblur.

This before/after picture tells you all you need to know:

It’s not released yet but looks promising. I would expect to find this in cameras in future, software correction being far cheaper than anti-shake hardware.

Remember how in the old days a spy would feed a photo with a blurred blob into the megatron computer and, seconds later, out would come a sharp image with the numbered account for that Swiss bank vault containing millions in bearer bonds? That day just got closer.

I ruminated on all of this over half a decade ago in a piece here titled It’s the Software, Stupid.

Perfect Resize 7

Smoke and mirrors.

You see them all the time in the Bay Area of San Francisco. Little Hondas with a gigantic and noisy tailpipe, invariably driven by someone about five feet tall, almost hidden behind the wheel. Lots of chrome, lots of noise, not all that much ooomph to show for it.

It’s an image which kept coming to mind as I tested Perfect Resize 7 which, in a past life, was better known as Genuine Fractals. The product’s stated aim is to allow you to make monster prints from small files, with the best possible quality, better than your regular processing application can achieve.

PR7 claims to get a quart out of a pint pot, just like that Honda driver, and it can’t be done. As the old car guy saying has it, there’s no substitute for cubic inches or, in the case of digital imaging, large sensor sizes.

PR7 retails at a costly $70-100 and installs as a Photoshop, Lightroom 2 or 3 or Aperture 2.1 or later plugin, accessible from within each application. Alternatively, you can open your file in the stand-alone variant which comes with the download. The download is 38.5mB and there’s a useful base tutorial; the others refuse to open (and they want how much?) owing to carelessness by the makers, but use is intuitive ebough. I tried PR7 in LR3.

After checking that it’s correctly installed as a plugin in LR3 –

– I invoked it using a favorite Canon 5D file of our son. The app opens within LR3 thus –

– and the controls are self-explanatory. I took the image from its (approx) 13″ x 19″ native size and enlarged it 4 times to 26″ x 38″, saving it back into LR3. The difference in the 5D RAW file size and the PR7 file size is startling –

– fully 19.4 times the size! Generation of the PR7 file took 45 seconds on my speedy Core4Quad 3.6gHz Hackintosh – a very fast machine. Do this a lot and you will be buying more hard drive storage fast. And if your computer is slow, be prepared to wait while PR7 does its non-magic. Is it worth it?

In a word, no.

Here are side by side screen shots of the 5d original and the PR7 versions:

5D original RAW image on the left; 4x PR7 on the right.

In addition to tweaking the micro-contrast (something LR3 can do with the Clarity slider), color balance changes slightly, as visible above – not good – and noise is reduced.

The original, taken on the superb 85mm f/1.8 Canon EF lens with my Novatron studio flash clearly shows the flash umbrella reflected in the eye. So does the PR7 version but the details are fuzzed in exchange for reduced noise and pixelation. It’s far clearer with full screen display of the original images than in the reduced size here. Frankly, you can get as good or better results using LR3’s native noise reduction tools with a touch of sharpening, without the nasty color shift PR7 introduces. You profiled that monitor for a reason, no?

So if you want wall sized prints – and PR7 does offer a nice tiling option but not something I would blow $70 on – and don’t want to be buying ever larger hard drives for the ridiculous file sizes created by (not so) Perfect Resize 7, save your money and use LR3 as is. Further, the tiling option does not work properly with LR3 – I told PR7 to make a tiled print with two constituent images of 18″ x 24″ each for a 24″ x 36″ original on two prints. When reimporting back and trying to stack the modified file into LR3, a single image is saved even though I told PR7 to ‘stack with original’. Save it to your desktop and you get the two images required which then have to be reimported into LR3 – a royal pain. It’s simply faster to tell LR3 to print a 24″ x 36″ original and do it in two passes.

More on keywords

Do it now, save time later.

I wrote about the need for key wording back when Lightroom 2 was the current thing here.

Since then I have been eating my own cooking and after several ‘catch-up’ sessions now make it a practice to keyword all new snaps placed in the LR3 catalog immediately. You are not restricted to one keyword per snap and can mix and match in any way that works for you. Exciting it is not, but apply this discipline routinely and you will find that the ease of picture retrieval with a burgeoning catalog is greatly simplified.

My overall approach tends to be to break down catalog directories by genre – Cityscapes, Landscapes, etc. – with sub-directories dedicated to locations. So Cityscapes->New York, Cityscapes->Los Angeles and so on. The keywords added tend to be snap specific, such as humor, mural, street sign, etc.

I still occasionally struggle when trying to find a favorite picture but it’s getting better all the time as I make a practice of adding keywords in spare moment from time to time. And bear in mind that the target is not stationary here. Especially with digital capture, catalogs tend to grow faster than in the days of film, so constant enhancement of key wording helps you stay ahead of a steepening curve.

It does work. The other day a friend remarked how many store front pictures I had shared with her over the years from diverse locations. Some of these are filed under ‘Abstract’, some under ‘Cityscapes’, etc., but all share the keyword ‘shop front’. She asked whether I could assemble a collection for my semi-static web site, and all I had to do was pull up all the snaps with the ‘store front’ keyword and select the two dozen best, which you can see by clicking the image below.

Click the picture to see more.

If you want to determine which pictures in the LR3 catalog have no keywords whatsoever, read this.

AirDrop

With some Hackintosh hints.

AirDrop is a new feature in OS Lion which allows easy ‘drag and drop’ transfer of files between Macs (not iPads or iPhones) separated no more than 20 feet or so. What it lacks in range it more than makes up for in ease of use.

The ability to network Macs has been there for years – use MobileMe, switch on Back to my Mac in SystemPreferences->MobileMe and Finder will display all other Macs on your network configured in a like manner. I use this often for transferring files but it’s not especially fast, owing to lousy American broadband speeds. A big file – like a movie – is stll best moved using SneakerNet. Put it on a USB flash drive and walk it over.

So AirDrop caught my attention and I duly tried it out between one of my Hacksters (the HP10 with the i3 CPU) and my MacBook Air after HP10’s creator, FU Steve, had worked his magic (more below). A 13mB G1 RAW picture file took 25 seconds to make it across and was placed in the ‘Downloads’ folder. Using traditional networking (which is not as range limited the way AirDrop is, requiring only a shared wifi connection) it went over in 40 seconds, so AirDrop is faster if your Macs are in range. The main appeal is how easy it is to use. You do not have to login to the other Mac or remember its username and passwords and you save a few seconds required for the traditional login to ‘take’.

If Airdrop is available on your Mac it will appear in Finder thus:

Here it is on the MacBook Air:

Here’s the HP10 Hackintosh asking if I want to send files to the MBA, having drag-and-dropped them onto the MBA’s icon (the HAL9000 from ‘2001 A Space Odyssey’!) in HP10’s Finder:

The MBA meanwhile flashes a similar screen asking for approval of receipt.

It’s simple, intuitive and fast, and very handy for sending snaps around to anyone’s Mac within range. Unlike the networking alternative, there is no need for the recipient to be on your network. Very clever.

Use with a Hackintosh and with older Macs:

The Hackintosh fora are abuzz with AirDrop not working on various Hacksters. They do not, however, have access to ace Hackintosh builder FU Steve, who writes the remainder of this piece.

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When Apple introuduced AirDrop it did owners of older (not much older) Macs a disservice. This handy tool will not work with Macs more than a couple of generations old. The reason is that the technology is very hardware specific, depending on the use of the latest Broadcom or Atheros wireless cards in the Macs if AirDrop is to work. These only exist in recent Macs, so it’s not just the Hackintosh community which is missing AirDrop.

While Thomas’s MacBookAir (late-2010) supports AirDrop, neither of his HackPros supports it. Nor does his MacMini (mid-2010). His HP1 uses an internal PCI-e TPLink 802-11n 2.4gHz wifi card with an older Atheros chip and the AtherosFix kext to make OS X recognize the card as an Airport one, and display it in the menu bar (fan display) in the usual way. The other machine, the brand new HP10 uses an aftermarket USB 802-11n 2.4gHz external wireless dongle and Ralink software to access broadband wirelessly. The wireless technology in both these machines is too old to support Airdrop.

So for the Hackintoshes there were two alternatives. One was to buy a used current Apple Airport mini-PCIe card and install it in the machines using a PCI-e to MiniPCI-e adapter card in an available PCI-e internal slot. The problem is that current Airport cards sell on eTheft/eBay for $100. Ridiculous.

The second approach was to figure out the model of the chip used in the current Airport card and buy the MiniPCI-e card with the orignal manufacturer’s imprint, thus avoiding the Apple premium. Sure enough, one that works is the Broadcom BCM94322MC Mini PCI-e Card 487330-001 which you can search out on the web or on eBay. Be very specific about getting exactly this card, right down to the numerical suffix in the previous sentence. $20 shipped. Many older Macs use the Broadcom BCM94321MC card (the designation is clearly visible on the card) which does not work – I know because I tested mine.

The older Broadcom BCM94321MC card – AirDrop will not work with this card installed.

The right Broadcom card for AirDrop use.

Mac users with older MacBooks, iMacs or MacBook Pros can open them up (check ifixit.com for instructions) and replace their Apple branded card with the above Broadcom model to get AirDrop working. Here are the Mac owners who are SOL:

Then buy the PCI-e to MiniPCI-e adapter from Amazon (or pay the same and wait one month for it to arrive from the Far East) – another $20:

MiniPCI-e to PCI-e adapter.

Attach the two outside antennae to the card using fine nose pliers to snap the catches on, then insert the card in the adapter. The center antenna is not used. The assembly is installed in the Hackintosh (or Mac Pro for that matter) in any available short slot, the provided antennae are screwed on from outside the computer’s case and you have plug-and-play AirDrop functionality for $40. No drivers or hacking required. As I wrote years ago here, a Mac is nothing more than an assembly of PC parts, invariably overpriced and under-designed.

A related advantage of this card is that it supports the 5gHz spectrum for wi-fi as well as 2.4gHz. In some environments the latter is interference prone (lots of cordless phones and baby monitors use 2.4gHz). Try both with your Airport Exreme router, checking speeds using Speedtest.net.

Here’s System Profiler in Thomas’s HP10 showing the card installed and working:

The Broadcom card installed in HP10.

Here’s the fan display showing use with the 5gHz spectrum – to get this display hold the Option key then click the fan in the Meu Bar:

The antennae on the rear of the PCI-e wifi adapter card protrude from the rear of the computer case and can be rotated in all directions. Don’t just wiggle them and hope for the best. Use the Wi-Fi Diagnostics tool included with Lion, which you can find in System->Library->Core Service->WiFi Diagnostics. While watching the signal and noise traces, adjust the antennae until the space between them is at its greatest – here’s a trace:

AirDrop on wired and older Intel iMacs:

For the older MacMini, the card is not easily changed as it integrates Bluetooth with broadband. However, this tip from MacOSXDaily works fine and has been successfully implemented on Thomas’s MacMini. It should work on any older Intel Mac whether wired or wireless, as long as the machines concerned are on the same network. It does not work on older PPC G3/4/5 iMacs – at least not on my old G4.

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FU Steve comes through again. Thanks FU!

The DropCopy alternative:

If you have an early MBA (where the ‘wireless card’ is too integrated to permit replacement, or simply do not want to dismantle your Mac to replace the card, you can use DropCopy, the snag being that every Mac has to be running the app for file transfer to work. Still, what it lacks in elegance it gains in function on older machines. Why, DropCopy will even run on older G3/4/5 PPC Macs which Apple has now completely abandoned.