Monthly Archives: June 2007

About the Snap: Beached whales

Beached whales


Date: August, 1981
Place: Central Park West, NYC
Modus operandi: Wandering the streets
Weather: Overcast
Time: 2 pm
Gear: Leica M3
Medium: Kodachrome 64
Me: Gotcha!
My age: 29

What’s that old joke about the two American tourists in Venice, torn between catching the plane home and seeing yet another priceless cathedral? “OK, honey, you take the outside and I’ll do the inside”.

I imagine these two whales were visiting from some place it’s good to be from, in W C Fields’s words, like Arkansas or Mississippi. They had just ‘done’ the Natural History Museum (the same one in which Woody Allen wanted to “…. make interstellar perversion ….” with Diane Keaton in his fabulous movie ‘Manhattan‘) and simply had to take the weight off their tortured feet.

Taste and discretion

Often not pressing the button is the right thing to do

An interesting comment to this journal entry from reader Arun asked:

“What is the etiquette of photography – can a person, such as the subject of this photograph have any expectations of privacy? What if one caught a person in a moment of undignified pose, should one not publish such a photograph? Could a parent not want a random stranger snapshotting her children? And so on. If one is wandering around with one’s camera, searching for shots, what boundaries should be respected?

This is probably a culture-specific question, so what are the rules in America?”

In a 1964 case tried before the US Supreme Court, Justice Potter Stewart famously said of obscenity:

“I shall not today attempt further to define the kinds of material I understand to be embraced within that shorthand description; and perhaps I could never succeed in intelligibly doing so. But I know it when I see it, and the motion picture involved in this case is not that.”

I know it when I see it.

And that’s the thought at the back of my mind when I take street snaps. Obscenity or bad taste, they are much the same, sharing adjacent positions on the continuum which is culture. Arun limits his question to the US, but maybe it’s as fair to substitute ‘Western Europe and North America’ for ‘United States’, as the social mores are largely similar.

Take my picture of Max for example. To most Westerners it’s a funny picture of a dog. Yet one Japanese commentator a while back took offence, describing the picture in generally pejorative terms and referring to it as a “…. picture of a dog sniffing a woman’s behind.” OK, so he doesn’t get it and the comment, laced with personal invective directed at me, seems hardly worth worrying about yet …. what may be funny to a Westerner does not necessarily work elsewhere. To this Japanese, the picture was in bad taste or somehow conflicted with his agenda. To the many Western photo editors who have chosen to reproduce this picture over the years, it was a bit of fun, a light-as-air confection. And the subject couldn’t be further from the interpretation of that vituperative Japanese commentator to my Western eyes.

So good taste, restraint and an appreciation of the cultural boundaries are good things to practice, but in a global community it is simply impossible to please all the people all of the time and, if your sole goal is to please viewers, then you are not a photographer but simply a user of a camera with a client – paying or not. This is why ‘professional’ photographers are not, for the most part, exemplars of quality, taste or great photography. The pictures are rarely their own, rather reflecting the desires of a paying customer. That’s not bad or good. It’s just fact. Extraordinary practitioners may shape taste and aesthetics becuse of a strong vision, like Hoyningen-Huene, but most commercial photography fails to reach these exalted heights.

In the Introduction to my first book, comprised of street snaps taken thirty years ago in London and Paris, I wrote:

“Why street photographs? It always seemed to me that the genre offered too much that was either humorless or contrived. Posed pictures trying to pass for spontaneity. Worst of all, much of the work out there was positively invasive when it came to respecting other’s privacy. Cameras cruelly stuck in the faces of the poor or destitute. Not for me. But make it spontaneous and inject a touch of humor and now you have a picture worth taking”.

And as for the limits of good taste well, like Potter Stewart, we all have our own built-in obscenity meters, with a dishonorable exception for paparazzi and those hiding behind the First Amendment and going by the dubious title of photojournalist. Their taste meters seem to be permanently stuck on zero.

We know it when we see it. At least most of us do.

Horst P. Horst

Book review

It may be the most extraordinary creative partnership in the history of photography. The master, George Hoyningen-Huene and his pupil, companion and life long friend, Horst P. Horst (actually Horst Bohrmann, but as an American resident at the time of war, you would have changed your name too).

The Baron (Huene’s father had been the chief equerry to Tsar Nicholas II of Russia) and the young Horst met in the late ’20s, with Huene having been Paris Vogue’s Chief Photographer since 1926; an immediate attraction saw Horst become Huene’s photographic assistant. Horst’s photographic work began to be published in 1932 and Huene’s influence is palpable. When Huene blew off Vogue in a tiff in 1937, preferring to spend increasing amounts of time at the vacation home the two had built in Tunisia, Harper’s Bazaar snapped him up and Horst segued into his still warm spot at Vogue.

So you had the two best fashion magazines of the time – French Vogue and Harper’s – with the two greatest fashion photographers of the time. And the style they created – it’s often hard to tell Huene’s work from Horst’s – was to last until the 1950s when a brilliant, young British photographer named Norman Parkinson took fashion photography out of the studio onto the streets.

The cover picture of this magnificent book is of a lovely Jessica Tandy, every pore of her perfect complexion exposed. My favorite is the picture of Joan Crawford, demonized in a witch-like black number, and doubtless happy with the result. Horst had that way of getting below the surface of his famous subjects, unknown to them – note the backdrop, a huge photograph of Greek antiquities from Horst’s collection:

No wonder that Huene left his photography collection to Horst in his will. If you love the work of Irving Penn as much as I (Penn married Lisa Fonssagrives in the 1950s, a favorite model both pre- and post-war for both men) check out the photography of Horst and Huene to see just how they influenced modern ways of seeing.

The book is an essential in any photographer’s collection.

George Hoyningen-Huene

Book review

While Cecil Beaton was the ‘go to’ photographer at British Vogue in the 1930s, his counterpart at French Vogue was the aristocratic and temperamental George Hoyningen-Huene. (Cecil was temperamental but, try as he might, no aristocrat).

Where Beaton’s tastes tended to the frou-frou, Huene’s were solidly based in Greek classicism, as the wonderful pictures on display here show. His fascination with Greek sculpture and architecture is everywhere to be seen in his photographs, which are marvels of careful composition and lighting. The most reproduced is probably this one from his bathing costume series. The author William Ewing does a great job of explaining exactly how this picture was made (you will be amazed and I’m not telling!) and when you realize that the male model is none other than Huene’s long time companion and ace pupil Horst P. Horst, well, it’s icing on the cake.

Published some ten years ago in paperback, this book remains available from Amazon. When I tell you that all of Huene’s negatives went up in a house fire and the ones here are reproduced from prints, your heart may sink. No need. The quality of the reproductions is fine, including some dazzling color plates – I’m guessing on early Kodachrome – and the book is an absolute essential for anyone interested in the development of twentieth century photography (I almost wrote ‘fashion photography’ but Huene’s work is far more than that).

As for the equally wonderful work of Horst, well, more of him later.

Huene was also a major influence on the Vogue photographer John Rawlings, whom you can read more about here.

About the Snap: Wrapped Heads

Wrapped Heads


Date: 1996
Place: Hong Kong, HK
Modus operandi: Jet lagged
Weather: Muggy
Time: 3 pm
Gear: Olympus Stylus Quartz
Medium: Kodachrome 64
Me: Awed by the electricity of this special place
My age: 45

There’s nothing good about the flight from LA to Hong Kong, unless you include the lovely Singapore Airlines stewardess waking you with a warm meal and a smile. You arrive so zonked out on jet lag that for the first day or two eveything is strange. Sorround that strangeness with the frenetic pace of the world’s most crowded place and you have a prescription for strangeness. And fun.

These statues were patiently awaiting probably illegal export to some loony collector in New York; long live free trade!

As this really was meant to be a business trip, I restricted my gear to the small, clamshell Olympus Stylus, as sweet a piece as Olympus ever made. When not in use the built-in cover slid over the wide angle lens and the whole thing slipped nicely into a pocket. Or suit. The lens may not have been the greatest – barely better than the one on its predecessor, the Rollei 35 – but it was adequate for little memorabilia like this. And how could anyone resist the wild surrealism of this scene?