Downtown SF.
Panasonic G1, kit lens.
Downtown SF.
Panasonic G1, kit lens.
Cost to build.
For an index of all my Mac Pro articles, click here.
In Part IX I looked at the upgrade costs of a 2009 Mac Pro compared with a like specification Hackintosh. This was relevant to my case as I was moving from a Hack and reusing many of the components.
Here I look at the all in cost of a fully loaded machine:
The specifications here are very complete, and only displays are excluded. This build will drive four displays (2 x DVI, 1 x DisplayPort, 1 x HDMI).
Let’s look at the core components:
So for around $2,200 you have a high performance, extremely robust, stock system which will match the best iMacs. Sure you can save and buy a used 2009 4-core machine, but the $250 or so saved makes little economic sense in the long run. A 27″ top quality Dell matte display will add $630, for a total of $2,830.
What does that buy you in iMac land, replete with unfixable and non-upgradable components and a ghastly glossy display? $3,000 gets you a Core i5 machine with one SSD (good luck getting any more in the chassis), and you can add $500 for the external drives and case to match the above.
Now let’s make that MacPro compete with the best there is, the 2012 12-core Mac Pro. That machine comes with three choices of CPU. To match the 2.66Hz middle model, whose CPU performance is identical to our 2009 with the processor upgrade, you are looking at $6,335 with a self installed SSD and the 3TB TimeMachine HDD added to the two 2TB drives in the case. The available GPUs are inferior to the GTX660 used in the 2009. The 2009 with upgraded CPUs is $2,660, both machines without displays. The upgraded 2009 Mac Pro offers 100% of the performance of the 2012 for 40% of the cost.
What are the main model differences?
The dual-processor Mac Pro has had a long life. What to choose and which to avoid?
Version 1,1, MA356LL/A, August 2006:
Version 2,1, unknown order number, April 2007:
Version 3,1, MA970LL/A, early-2008:
Version 4,1, MB535LL/A, early-2009:
Version 5,1, MC561LL/A, mid-2010:
Also version 5,1, MD771LL/A, mid-2012:
Buying used? Don’t be cheated.
The model number has direct bearing on a Mac Pro’s market value, so it’s important to see what you are buying. A fraudulent seller can easily upgrade firmware from 1,1 to 2,1 or from 4,1 to 5,1 (see here) and will show you the upgraded model number in System Profiler, thus:
Or the seller may claim that the machine has been ‘upgraded’ from stock.
Find or ask for the Mac Pro’s serial number on the rear ledge below the sockets. Alternatively go to About This Mac (Apple icon, top left of your screen) and click twice where it says ‘Version 10.8.4’ or whatever, and your serial number will be disclosed. Here’s mine:
Now go here, input the serial number and you will get something like this:
Now if someone says it’s a 2009 or 2010, you can check. The serial number lookup is of the original build, allowing you to confirm the ‘upgrade’ status, and while I do not show the whole screen above, it reports Model Number 4,1, even though I have upgraded to 5,1, which is what System Profiler reports. Thus a 2009 being passed off as a 2010 or 2012 is easily spotted by running the serial number report.
Other things to look for:
You will see many Mac Pros whose lower foot or feet are distorted. The chassis panels may also be misaligned. This can only mean one thing. The machine has been dropped. Run like blazes. You never know what sort of damage ensued until you stress test the machine, and it’s not likely a dishonest seller will let you do that in any case. Plus, do you really want to wake up to that every morning? Likewise avoid machines with heavy scratches, dirt inside or from a smoking environment. Scratches often indicate studio use with the computer inserted in and out of racks, having led a hard life. Move on. There’s always another machine.
Light scratches and a general absence of bumps are fine, but my advice is to go for a pristine machine and pay a bit more. This is a 5-10 year investment and the marginal cost is immaterial over that period of use. The best are ones from amateur users which come with the original box. These are likely to have been babied. And for heaven’s sake, do not buy a machine which runs Windows only. Not only does that confirm the seller has execrable taste, you really want to know why it cannot run OS X.
Further, you will find many machines listed by people who are completely clueless about the specifications, model number, year and so on. These are likely high volume brokers and good luck with that lot. Or perhaps they are thieves, though pinching one of these is a non-trivial matter owing to the weight and bulk. Try and buy from knowledgeable Apple Mac fans who know their stuff. If you are into Rolls Royces, chances are you will look after yours, no? What you want is an original owner, Apple fanboy, cream puff who is upgrading. They are out there.
Finally, avoid heavily modified machines (like mine!). Buy stock. A modified machine means you are taking a gamble on the competence of the modifier, an irrational risk (doesn’t apply to mine, of course …. and it’s not for sale in any case). Stock CPUs, stock GPU, stock RAM (especially with 2008 and earlier machines using costly buffered RAM) – these work best. You can always upgrade to your heart’s content. Specialist machines with multiple cards and RAID capability, boasting of their processing power and listed with several monitors will have had an awfully hard life in a studio environment. You can do better. A little patience goes a long way. While I bought mine on Craigslist and got lucky, I would broadly characterize most Craigslist sellers as crooks and/or thieves. It’s a perfect market for fencing stolen goods. The ethically challenged lot exists on eBay too, and shipping is a pain with these behemoths, but you are covered by PayPal insurance against fraud and should get transit damage insurance as part of the purchase.
The best of luck with your search. When you are done you will not regret it, for you will end up with a professional tool, one which is easily upgraded or repaired, rather than a recyclable, mass market toy. You know, like those two iMacs of mine which melted all those years ago.
The next in this series of articles will address installation and benchmarking of USB3, once I get the necessary cables.
Power consumption, stress tests and diagnosis.
Power consumption:
Using the calculator here I input the components for the modified Mac Pro:
This assumes everything is running flat out. The PSU in the Mac Pro is 980 watts maximum continuous power, call it 1,400 watts peak power, more realistic of real world ‘spiky’ power demands, so it’s comfortably able to handle even the thirsty W5590 Xeons. At a more granular level, the two backplane sockets for powered GPUs are limited to 150 watts total, with the PCIe slots capable of delivering an additional 75 watts, for a total of 225 watts. So a GPU like the latest nVidia GTX780, which can draw as much as 250 watts, is demanding unsafe power draws when maxed out. If in doubt, add an external power supply to power extreme GPUs. If you use two of these, external power is essential.
Using the stock E5520 Xeons (2.26GHz) the BOOSTA and BOOSTB fans (inside the two CPU heat sinks) run at 1100rpm. The E5520 have a Thermal Design Power (TDP) of just 80 watts, at which point the CPU is throttled back to prevent meltdown. By contrast the W5590 CPUs have a TDP of 130 watts, so they will run hotter under load. At idle, my CPU fans run at 1,650 rpm, considerably higher than stock. As these fans are buried inside their respective heat sinks and the exceptionally robust case is well sound insulated, the increased fan speed results in no discernible increase in noise, which continues to be approximately 44dB at ear level, two feet distant from the front of the Mac Pro, which stands out in the open to the left of my desk.
Other fan speeds (PSU, processor cage, PCIe space, GPU) remain unaffected by any of the enhancements made.
With the components shown above, my Mac Pro idles at 188 watts. Set to Sleep it consumes but 9 watts.
Stress tests:
Ordinarily I test stability by ripping a DVD then compressing it in Handbrake. While this really exercises the CPU and memory, it’s not the best test out there. Handbrake does not work every CPU core and thread to the maximum.
There is a Stress Test function in Geekbench. This application is ordinarily used to test CPU and RAM performance, but go to Geekbench->Benchmarks->Run Stress Tests and this is what Geekbench will do to your 16 threads, or how ever many you have:
Well, I ran this Stress Test and after 30 seconds …. the Mac froze! No kernel panic, no messages, just frozen. Incidentally, trying Handbrake it froze also!
As all my memory was properly reported in System Profiler, my first thought was that there was an application causing the problem, yet removing applications one by one made no difference. The Mac Pro continued to fail the Stress Test. So it’s not an application issue.
Suspicion then fell on the memory as Geekbench tests both the CPU and the RAM. Four of my six 4GB sticks migrated from the Hackintosh where they had performed perfectly for 2 years. Two more were added recently to take advantage of the three channel Xeon CPUs which optimally address three sticks of RAM each. Three sticks for each CPU, for a total of 24GB.
So I pulled four sticks and ran the Stress Test, leaving just 8GB installed. Perfect. Stress Test passed.
Added back two more. Still perfect. Stress Test passed again.
Added the last two …. still perfect!
Conclusion? One or more of the memory sticks was not properly seated and was causing failure of the stress test. Quite how a stick can get improperly seated beats me, but it’s not the first time I have encountered the ‘badly seated memory sticks’ issue, although this is the first time I have been the victim.
And the result?
Temperatures? Benign – the highest I saw was 140F for one of the CPUs, everything else in the 100-110F range. The fans never broke a sweat despite the brutal nature of this test, running at minimum speeds throughout.
I’m now satisfied the Mac Pro can take just about anything I can throw at it.
The Diagnostic process:
With a host of variables in play the only way to diagnose issues is to remove or replace one variable at a time. For example, to pull memory sticks and close applications at the same time would be a pointless process. If the issue was solved as a result, you would not know which was the cause of the problem. It may seem slower to work one variable at a time, but, net, it’s the fastest diagnostic approach.
By the way, all that pulling and replacing of memory sticks is hardly onerous in a 2009 or later Mac Pro. The design makes the removal and replacement of the processor/RAM assembly a speedy affair.
Stunning recreations.
The local fairground has a show featuring animatronic dinosaurs in full size, so my boy and I could not resist the opportunity of checking out these denizens of the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods.
Not everyone enjoyed the roaring sounds.
Winston holds his triceratops. The ‘real’ thing is behind him.
Nikon D3x, 35mm f/1.4 Sigma at f/1.4, ISO800.
As the data disclose, the lighting was very poor, a problem which the wonderful Sigma dispatched with aplomb.
Temperature issues.
For an index of all my Mac Pro articles, click here.
Long time readers will recall that what drove me to using a Hackintosh five years ago was that I managed to fry the GPUs in three iBooks and two iMacs in quick succession. The last two were just out of warranty, naturally, and my efforts to better ventilate the nVidia 7300 GPUs and then to replace the 7300 in one with a 7600 all failed. Further, Apple denied any cooling issue existed even though their own discussion boards were replete with complaints. This led me to put out the iMac in disgust to a location better suited to its abilities:
Thus it comes as no surprise that I have kept a watchful eye on operating temperatures ever since and even though the Mac Pro comes with state-of-the-art cooling, it’s a hard habit to shake.
The purpose of this piece is to address Mac Pro temperatures and suggest one minor enhancement.
The Mac Pro is exceptionally well cooled, with six fans in the 8-core model. (The 4-core has five, as it has one processor, not two). One pair of fans cools the processor cage in a push-pull configuration, each massive processor heat sink contains a fan, the PCIe fan cools the space occupied by the PCIe cards and disk drives and the large 980 watt power supply has its own fan.
The other day I ripped a movie then compressed it using Handbrake. That’s a stressful process which exercises all 8-cores in the two Intel Xeon CPUs used in the 8-core Mac Pro. It was an exceptionally warm day and the Ambient (case vicinity) temperature reported by iStat was 90F. All the operating temperatures of the various monitored components were fine, running in the 120F range, but with one exception. The Northbridge chip was reporting 165F. The fans did not spool up and the job ran fine, a full length uncompressed movie being reduced to a compressed iPad M4V version in 25 minutes. Nice.
Well, I did some reading of chat boards and they were – how to put this politely? – innumerate.
Thus, I went to the source, the excellent Intel web site, to check on the Northridge thermal specifications. Northridge is the chip which controls communications between the CPU and RAM, and Wikipedia has a fine piece on it here. Note that the increasing drive to integration saw the Northbridge chip move within the CPU case by the time Intel produced the later Sandy Bridge CPUs, which is what my Hackintosh used.
Intel’s thermal specs provide the definitive answer in their Northbridge Thermal Guide. Here’s the key extract:
I’m strictly a Farenheit guy and water boils at 212F at sea level in my world, so Intel’s 104C converts to 219F as the case temperature limit for the Northbridge chip. One commentator on a chat board stated he removed the chip and refreshed the thermal paste, but the loss was only 4F, which hardly seems worth the effort.
Nonetheless, as I never like to see high temperatures, I did some measurement. Here’s my iStat reading with the Mac Pro just doing some modest surfing:
I then fired up SMCFanControl, which you can download free – click the link, and increased the fans speeds of the processor cage Intake and Exhaust fans from 800rpm to 1050rpm, thus:
The processor assembly is the part-withdrawn assembly in the picture below (4-core above, 8-core below), holding the two CPUs, RAM and, yes, that hot Northbridge chip. There are two CPU fans within the heat sinks on an 8-core machine, named BOOSTA and BOOSTB, the first barely distinguishable in the image above:
This assembly nests within the processor cage which I earlier removed to install an Airport card on the backplane board:
Those fans, which work in a push-pull configuration, are the ones we want to speed up if more air flow is to be directed over the Northbridge chip.
The modest speed increase for the minimum fan speeds from 800rpm to 1050rpm resulted in a 1-2dB noise increase at my working location, in practice barely detectable. But the benefit in terms of Northbridge temperature drop was excellent:
That’s a good noise:efficiency trade-off in my book and I’m leaving those two fans at that speed.
To satisfy curiosity, I cranked those two fans up to 3600+rpm, resulting in an unnacceptable noise level of 60dB. Not for daily use, but handy if you need quick cooling on a stressful task in excess of that offered by the automatic variable speed fan controllers in the Mac Pro. The Northbridge now dropped from 139F stock to 101F:
Bottom line? For the temperature-obsessed, like me, a slight increase in fan speed to 1050rpm from the stock 800rpm for the intake and exhaust fans on the processor cage provides peace of mind.
It’s hot and I want to leave the cover off:
That is a bad idea. The Mac Pro’s massive alloy side cover plate is part and parcel of the thermal design. Look hard at the inside and you will see insulating rubber gaskets which seal the enclosure when the cover is in place.
With the cover in place the tunnels formed by the cover are completed, presenting a side-sealed conduit for the push-pull processor cage fans, resulting in optimal cooling. Leaving the cover off actually compromises cooling performance. Do not do it.