Firmware upgrade and other housekeeping

To read the whole series on the Panasonic G1, click here

Panasonic’s G1 has the ability to upgrade both camera and lens firmware (built in software) separately. To date only firmware upgrades have been issued and can be found here. I dutifully downloaded v1.3, copied it to a freshly formatted SD card, inserted a fully charged battery in the camera, switched on and pressed Play (the button in the circle of the arrow quadrant) . The upgrade took all of 2 minutes.

English as she is wrote – firmware upgrade in progress

Once installed I went into the Setup menu and adjusted the viewfinder display to maximum brightness (vertical arrow) and the contrast to the contrasty end of the slider (right arrow). Then a touch of the Display button on the rear switched the adjuster to color – a new function conferred by firmware v1.3. The default neutral setting was slightly bluish. I moved the slider all but one click to the left – warmer. This emulates the slightly warm look I so liked in the M2’s range/viewfinder – mine was a 1961 model. (The M3 – mine was a 1960 model – was, by contrast, slightly too blue for my taste). The blown out look referred to in Part IV is still there on very bright highlights but substantially mitigated. I can live with it.

Manual Focus: In Firmware v1.0 (as shipped) switching the top left dial to manual focus and turning the focus collar on the lens would switch to a magnified image making focusing very easy using the EVF. However, after 10 seconds, the camera would switch back to full screen view. In v1.3 I can confirm that the magnified view no longer switches off, only reverting to full screen when the shutter release button is touched. That’s as it should be and Panasonic should be commended for the change.

Matrix focus: Ugh! The 23 area focus computer displays multiple green rectangles purportedly reporting what it has focused on and I see no way of switching those off. Plus, how the heck does it know what I want to focus on? So I switched to the center rectangle for focusing and now only see one green rectangle. This can be placed over the critical area for focus and a first pressure maintained on the shutter release pending recomposition and exposure.

Autofocus and Autoexposure lock: As with my 5D, I like the AF/AE lock button on the rear to lock exposure only; a first ‘press and hold’ on the shutter release serves to lock focus on off center subjects. This requires two adjustments in the Custom Menu. First you have to switch the software to tell the AF/AE button to lock exposure (AE) only. Then, one step down in the same menu you have to enable AF/AE Lock – meaning that you do not have to maintain pressure on the AF/AE button to keep the exposure locked. AE lock is, I find, very useful with digital sensors which are prone to blow out highlights. A second pressure on the AF/AE button toggles the AE function on and off. Nice.

Auto exposure: For now I am sticking with multi-metering, rather than center weighted or spot, as it seems to work pretty well.

The Q.Menu button: Given the vast number of menus and the time it takes to get through them – they largely defeat my addled memory – I have tried to make things as menu-independent as possible. Still, there are times you want to change, say, the aspect ratio or ISO – and Panasonic has been awfully clever here. Once again, bear in mind that I really dislike LED screens and prefer not to use mine, opting for the EVF. Well, if you press the Q.Menu (Quick Menu) button on top, you can scroll through the most common settings with the front-mounted scroll wheel. Press the wheel and scrolling further changes the variable you have chosen. First, by doing this in the EVF you can actually see what you are doing, regardless of the light. Second, the action is so quick and easy one can but applaud Panny for this thinking. It begins to occur to me that they actually had some photographers involved in the design stages. Indeed, someone at Panasonic has realized that humans prefer knobs, switches and buttons to pick-and-choose screen selections. Many of the most commonly accessed controls are on dials or switches. Even when a button has to be pressed, the next step invariably involves the front mounted wheel. Someone at Panny can spell ‘ergonomics‘. Those ‘reviewers’ who have criticized the design for the space wasted by the top left focusing mode knob (single, continuous or manual focus) just don’t get it.

Some more thoughts on the EVF: The Electronic Viewfinder is the crux of the G1 and points the way to future designs. As with LCD displays, this miniature ‘TV screen’ will only become cheaper and better, with yet faster refresh rates to remove the last vestiges of blurring as the camera is moved. As it stands, the continuous video output of the G1’s EVF can be routed to a display of your choice using the HDMI socket, meaning that the studio photographer will be able to preview composition, lighting and exposure and instantly review the resulting picture once taken. Imagine an inexpensive 32″ or 42″ LCD monitor in the studio as the ultimate feedforward and feedback device! The mind boggles at the possibilities, and I can’t wait to get my studio flash and big screen connected to try this. Aftermarket remote wireless strobe flash triggers, like the one I use on my 5D, are not yet listed on eFraud, but it’s only a matter of time. Wireless remote shutter releases are already being sold. So for now it will have to be a wired connection to the Novatron studio flash with the G1.

First impressions – at last

To read the whole series on the Panasonic G1, click here

The fact that it has taken me three articles to get to the point where I finally try the G1 either confirms that I am a hopeless windbag or discloses how much hope I have for this revolutionary camera. Because I am convinced once electronic viewfinders are done right, the flapping mirror with its attendant vibration plus the heavy and bulky glass pentaprism will be a thing of the past.

If you read on, you will find an unconflicted user opinion – no advertising, no click-through dollars. There are far easier ways of making money and this is my hobby, not my livelihood. What you will find is highly opinionated writing which, let’s face it, is why you come here in the first place.

My goal is simple. I want a digital Leica M without the ridiculous cost and limitations of the M8 which, erroneously in my opinion, has tried to shoehorn 21st century technology into a 1950s body and design.

First impressions are important and my touchstone for comparison is the Leica M2 which, I contend, was the greatest rangefinder camera ever made. Small, fast, superb optics, quiet and unobtrusive, it was never equalled by any subsequent M Leica. Later models added confusing framelines, build quality fell off a cliff, the rangefinder design was compromised rendering it useless for into-the-light photographs, the TTL light meter could only be adjusted at eye level (what were they thinking of?) until the fully auto-exposure M7 came along, and the whole thing went ballistic in price. The Leica M, in other words, had gone from tool to fetish. After 35 years with an M2 and M3 – years which put me in the ‘can use it blindfold’ category and yes, that includes loading film – I really do not need to hear from anyone that I do not know what I am talking about. If you believe that, don’t bother writing and go elsewhere right now.

Same dog, smaller box. Bert awaits the formal opening of the G1

The camera ships with an uncharged battery, which is frustrating as it’s dead without one, but an hour in the charger fixes that. Like everything about this camera, the battery is very small. An hour which is usefully spent with the massive. printed instruction book as the PDF download is frustratingly missing many key pages. I completely blew it on sizing the belt pouch by the way – I bought the Domke F-903 – which is far too small. I shall penitently request a refund from the fine people at B&H.

Once the battery was in the first steps were to get rid of the clutter. This is a street snapper after all.

• Switch off the LCD and keep it ‘face in’
• Switch off the focus confirmation beep – goodness gracious, who needs this?
• Switch recording to 3:2 – Leica format. 4:3 is simply too square for me.
• Switch off all that ‘face detection’ garbage – I know what I’m pointing the camera at
• Switch to Aperture Priority – my preferred setting
• Switch off ‘auto ISO’ and set ISO to 250 – it’s a nice compromise setting for me
• Switch off all the EVF menus – all I want to see is the picture – I managed to get it down to just the A/S indicator (Aperture or Shutter priority), aperture, shutter speed and +/- below the picture frame in the viewfinder. Too bad Panny did not add the remaining picture count. To see that and to get all the other nonsense, a touch on the Display button toggles information overload on and off. The limited display I have opted for is only the third in-viewfinder display which I have found readable – the first two being on the Leicaflex SL (shutter speeds only) and the Pentax ME Super
• Recording is set to RAW + high quality JPG
• Autofocus is set to 23 point matrix, whatever the hell that means. If it’s no good I will try one of the alternatives.
• Focus Priority in the Custom Menu is set Off – the shutter will release regardless of whether the scene is in focus
• The lens cap was discarded together with the gargantuan lens hood and replaced with a B+W 52mm UV filter for protection
• All the complex menus are visible both through the EVF and on the LCD so, in really bright sun, you don’t suffer the frustration (try this with the 5D) of having to find a shaded spot to make changes. Just use the EVF. Pretty special, if you ask me.
• The next one is very special. Surely the single greatest feature of the M2 was the 0.72x magnification viewfinder. The finder frame would appear projected onto the subject – full sun or coal cellar, it made no difference. And the rangefinder rectangle was just as bright and focus simplicity itself. Well, the G1 does not show anything outside the picture taking area, though it is 0.7x in magnification. But its design provides that, when the light is poor, the image is automatically brightened so even in poor light it remains bright. Sure, it gets a bit grainy through the EVF but it is simply illuminated. Magic. This is the sort of thing no conventional mirror+prism DSLR can do

Here are my immediate impressions after inserting the battery and a Sandisk Extreme III 1 gB SD card (that’s a fast, if small, card) with the 14-45mm kit lens fitted:

• Really small and light
• The blue color is very classy and unobtrusive and blue tape on the markings further improves things. I paid for the camera and do not propose to be an unpaid advertiser
• Rubber covering gives an excellent feel, not the divine sensuality of the textured rubber on the M2, but close
• Not so small that my large hands interfere with operation
• Thank goodness for the eyepiece diopter adjuster – it has a large range and I can set it just so
• I wear glasses and have no difficulty seeing the whole screen through the EVF
• Zoom ring on the lens feels OK – could be smoother. That’s what happens when you trade Leitz’s beautiful, low friction, heavy brass helicoids for plastic with stepper motors
• Switch-on is instant
• The EVF illuminates instantly when the camera is raised to the eye, courtesy of the eyepiece proximity sensor
• The front control wheel is a little strangely placed but something I can get used to. In aperture or shutter priority it is used to adjust the aperture and shutter speed. Depress it toward you and the function toggles to under/over exposure adjustment – wonderful thinking by the designers!
• The EVF looks great indoors but a little blown out outdoors – something I need to adjust
• EVF blurring with motion is insignificant and the definition is absolutely, bloody wonderful. There are slight moiré patterns visible in the EVF with textured subjects but I do not find the effect particularly objectionable.
• Autofocus is instantaneous – feels like the 5D in that regard
• Shutter response is almost equal to the Leica M2 – and as there’s no need to set focus, the overall responsiveness is superior
• READ THAT AGAIN. Shutter response is almost equal to the Leica M2
• The shutter is marginally louder than the M2’s – little in it. A huge feature for me. As I have learned with the LX-1, complete silence is not a good thing – you are never sure if you have pressed the button. Will the shutter’s noise embarras you or draw undue attention? No.
• The viewfinder screen blackout after pressing the shutter release is very noticeable, but I’ll trade that for the shutter response any day
• To avoid 2-3 second delays between snaps, I switched Auto Review to Off, thus making snap-to-snap times very short. 2 or maybe more a second seems feasible. The picture review is projected on both the EVF and the LCD and is simply unacceptable and, for me, quite unnecessary. You are hardly going to stop to review pictures on the run, after all. The camera will still be writing out the first file to the SD card while you are taking the second picture, but the EVF remains available during this process – and I’m talking about taking RAW + HQ JPGs (10.5 + 4-5.5 mB)
• With the top left dial set to Manual Focus, turning the focus collar on the lens immediately magnifies the image for a very usable full area focus screen as seen through the EVF. Is it as good as the microprism in the Leicaflex SL? No. Nothing is. But it’s close.

A few words about processing RAW files.

I store Import settings in Lightroom 2 for my various cameras – currently the 5D and LX-1. So into LR2, Develop->New Preset with the following tentative settings:

This is a high level of sharpening but entirely appropriate. Panasonic, thank goodness, like Canon with the 5D, have used a very weak anti-aliasing filter (corrects ‘jaggies’). This leaves the user to make sharpening adjustments and gives maximum flexibility. The above settings were determined after looking at imported RAW files 1:1 on my 24″ iMac’s screen.

As for in the field operability and picture quality, that will have to wait for the next installment. Here’s an early grab shot.

At the florist. G1, 14-45mm @ 18mm, 1/40, f/7.1, ISO 320, 16:9 RAW original processed in LR2

And another:

At the library. G1, 14-45mm @ 16mm, 1/25, f/7.1, ISO 320, 16:9 RAW original processed in LR2

Meanwhile I am optimistic. Panasonic, along with Sony, Canon and Samsung (Pentax), is one of the very few companies with the capital and electronics know how to create an essentially new camera for the twenty-first century. A small, quiet, fast SLR (or whatever you choose to call it) with a large sensor and with compact interchangeable lenses at a very reasonable price. The Electronic View Finder is the future and you can have it now in the G1, perhaps the first really usable execution in a consumer priced camera. Durablity? Who cares? You can get ten of these for one M8 and the only viable alternative is Panasonic’s GH1 which, while adding a movie mode for a few hundred dollars more, is otherwise identical.

Firmware: My G1 shipped with v1.0; Panny just announced v1.3 details here. Installation simply involves copying the firmware download to a freshly formatted SD card and starting the camera with a fully charged battery. Be aware that v1.3 prevents the use of aftermarket batteries. For me the most useful changes are in v1.1 – adjustment of the EVF/LCD color cast is permitted and the enlarged view in Manual Focus mode no longer switches off after a time out.

A cornucopia of lens choices

To read the whole series on the Panasonic G1, click here

If you want compact optics on the G1 then your only choice right now appears to be the lenses Panny specifically designed for the body. So far (double everything for 35mm equivalents) the 14-45mm kit and 45-200mm meet that description. Both have IS so just imagine that super compact long zoom at 200mm (400mm) – hand held! Others allegedly in the pipeline include the 20mm f/1.7 Pancake (yes please!) and a rather exotic and costly 14-140mm super zoom. Let’s hope Panny adds a macro once they realize the target audience is far broader than they envisaged. Olympus lenses for their Digital Pen will fit but – I’m not sure of this – may have some limitations. The Panny lenses have two more electrical contacts on their rear so there must be some sort of difference.

Now before Panny came up with the ‘micro four thirds’ body, they first issued a ‘four thirds’ one – meaning larger and heavier, as are the lenses. Olympus did likewise. That format always struck me as a waste of capital investment. All of those ‘four thirds’ lenses will fit using a custom adapter and, once again, I suspect there are some limitations when it comes to function. Leica also makes a few lenses in the four thirds format, though they do look pretty bulky to me. Maybe someone could enlighten me?

But it really does not stop there and, of course, this long time aficionado of glass which says Leitz Wetzlar (back in the days these lenses were hand made by Germans of the old generation) on the bezel is rather thrilled to note that adapters exist to mount your Leica screw or M rangefinder lenses on the G1. This is possible owing to the very slim body in the G1, meaning that the short flange-to-film dimension of those great M lenses is not so short as to prevent infinity focus on the G1. Plus, you get to use the EVF and its magnifier facility for accurate focusing.

Now, before we get too carried away, there’s the focal length doubling to take into account. That translates into Leica M wides being a waste of money if the kit zoom which comes with the G1 is any good. After all, why pay the enormous premium for a 21mm Asph Elmarit which can cover a 24x36mm frame when you end up with a rather uninspiring 42mm fixed focal length lens of modest f/2.8 aperture?

However things get a little different if you really want fast long lenses. How about a 90mm Summicron with an effective length of 180mm? A 180mm f/2, that is? Or that fabulous 180mm Apo Telyt R (this fits the Leicaflex, but there’s also an adapter for Leicaflex lenses available) for a ne plus ultra 360mm f/3.4?

So far, nosing around the web, I have spotted the following adapters:

• Leica M (and LTM with a screw to bayonet adapter added)
• Leica R/Leicaflex
• M42 Pentax thread
• Canon FD
• Canon EOS – but without electronic controls so full aperture use only
• C mount (movie camera lenses)
• Contax/Yashica
• Exakta (remember those?)
• Hasselblad (no kidding)
• Nikon F
• Minolta
• Olympus OM – some nice glass there
• Olympus Pen – from the F/FT half-frame wonders of yore
• Pentax 645
• Pentax 6×7
• Rollei 35mm
• Zeiss Contarex (wow!)

So it’s not as if the G1 is lost for choice if you are into older optics! I’m hopeful that a Canon EOS adapter with aperture control (this is all electronic, so some circuitry will have to be added) is not too far away. The thought of my 400mm f/5.6 Canon ‘L’ on the little Panny amuses me no end.

Here, from an eTheft vendor, is one of my favorites:

G1 with the Leitz Canada 90mm Tele Elmarit

I used on of these sweet little Tele Elmarits for ages on my M2, M3 and M6 (the less said about the latter, the better) and simply loved it. The Ontario, Canada factory was equal to Wetzlar when it came to quality control as this lens, my 90mm Summicron-R and the 180mm Apo Telyt-R attest.

Well, the camera finally arrived last night but, as with Pandora’s Box, I’m letting it sit a while to heighten the fun of the moment when I open everything. I was always a sucker for Christmas, regardless of the time of year. Hard to believe that three and a half wonderful years with the contents of that box have passed. The Canon 5D was a quantum leap in camera technology and remains superb in just about every way. The G1 has a lot to live up to.

Getting a jump on things

To read the whole series on the Panasonic G1, click here

While I eagerly await the arrival of my Panasonic G1, I took a few moments to download the instruction book from the manufacturer’s web site.

With modern cameras more and more resembling computers, it makes sense to get a jump on things – the manual is no less than 167 pages long.

Here are some things I noticed:

• The functions of the cursor buttons on the back are completely different from those on my Panasonic LX-1
• There’s the equivalent of a ‘film plane’ mark on the top plate. Wonder who would ever need that?
• Panasonic does not list a wireless remote but aftermarket vendors on eBay sell them for under $40
• The LCD monitor can be turned ‘display in’ on the back of the camera – nice for protection and no distraction
• The charger connects to power using a cable – nice, as bulky chargers with pins on the body will often refuse to fit in tight places
• You can use the camera connected to the mains with a power cable
• SDHC cards up to 32gB are presently accepted
• A Custom Menu function allows you to limit LCD display to essential functions – that’s nice, given the sheer number of choices
• A World Time setting allows you to specify a second time zone
• Auto Review of pictures can be set to present everything magnified 4x
• There are seven brightness settings for the LCD monitor
• There’s a setting to automatically brighten the LCD in sunlight
• The swiveling LCD allows both landscape and portrait orientation of the camera at waist level
• There’s an EVF proximity sensor – like with the iPhone – which optionally switches off the LCD when the camera is raised to eye level
• The EVF has eyesight adjustment – hurrah!
• The battery is good for 330 minutes of continuous LCD use
• The digital zoom (ugh!) extends the 28-90mm lens to 55-178mm (full frame equivalents) by using 3.1 of the 12 million pixels
• One of the EVF display options allows all display clutter to disappear – ‘film mode’ with a dedicated top plate button. One of the first things I will set!
• There’s a small, built-in flash – useful for dynamic range enhancement (or limitation, more correctly) in bright sun
• The self timer has a three picture option
• The latest firmware upgrade, v. 1.2, claims to reduce noise at high ISO settings – I do not know with which version the camera ships
• There’s an option for 3 shot bracketing – just the thing for HDR photography
• Depressing the front dial allows switching between aperture and shutter priority auto exposure – this can be disabled
• A preview mode allows preview of the picture – here’s the wonder of an EVF – you can preview depth-of-field without the picture darkening. Is that magic or what? There’s a dedicated button for that on the lower right rear!
• There are three Custom Menu settings possible – hooray!
• You can choose three aspect ratios – 4:3, 3:2 (Leica) and 16:9 (widescreen)
• It looks like the 14-45mm kit lens has a non-rotating front element which will simplify use with a polarizing filter
• The screen can display up to 22 items of data – now do you see why I like the idea of switching all of this off?
  

• A 4gB SDHC card will hold 185 pictures in RAW format at 4:3 aspect ratio. Which means that 1gB is fine for me.
• Panny has done a careless job of converting the manual to a PDF and several pages are missing including, most frustratingly, one of the index pages.

I prefer to use Lightroom 2 for all my processing (and simply plug the removed SDHC card into my iMac using a card reader) and have confirmed that the latest version of Adobe Camera Raw built in to LR 2.4 supports RAW files from the G1. It’s not that the software supplied by camera makers is bad – I have no idea – I simply refuse to learn yet another interface when I am so comfortable with Lightroom.

Anyway, there’s lots to look forward to and one reader has reported that the EVF is quite usable. This is the key to the whole design. Remember Panny’s first awful attempt at an EVF in the Panasonic L1? At least they made that body look more like a Leica M, but everything else was wrong. Interestingly, this time Panny has taken the conservative route of emulating the pentaprism hump common to all SLRs of the past 60 years even though none is needed – there is no glass pentaprism inside. Panny has also admitted that they could make the camera significantly smaller (here’s hoping!) but have refrained from doing so, probably for marketing reasons. Mysteriously, they are marketing this as a trade-up camera for the point-shoot-and-miss crowd whereas I regard it as possibly the first viable option for the disillusioned-Leica-rangefinder set.

Finally, I took a moment to compare the size and weight of the G1 with the long deceased Leica CL which I mentioned here. The M2 is also compared, because it is the single greatest body Leica ever made. I think you may agree this is instructive reading – all data exclude the lens and are in mm/grams:

Leica CL: 121 x 76 x 32 365 grams
Leica M2: 138 x 77 x 33.5 580 grams
Panny G1: 124 x 83.6 x 45.2 385 grams

Interesting, huh?

Now all I have to do is wait for the UPS man!

In the meanwhile, you can enjoy a really fact packed review by Matt Grayson in this video – note especially just how small that body appears in his hands:

To read the whole series on the Panasonic G1, click here

In a moment of insanity occasioned by despair at anyone ever introducing a small camera with a large digital sensor and with low shutter and autofocus lag, I asked a fellow photographer whether the only choice was a Leica M8, a camera I have remorselessly trashed in these pages for its dated, inept technology, ridiculous price and poor execution. And it’s not like I’m some sort of Leica-hating nut, having used M2, M3 and M6 film cameras for 35 years.

The reply gave me a well deserved spanking. I mean what was I thinking of buying that piece of antique jewelry?

“Come on, Thomas. I know that engineers love shiny, well-machined metal, but an M8? I think it was The Master who called it “nothing more than a joke”. There was a TV show a while back in which a photographer might or might not have been the father of a young woman. He gave her an M8, and in trying to solve the mystery, I wondered whether he was her father because he gave her such an expensive gift, or whether he wasn’t her father and just wanted to get rid of it.

There are so many really interesting cameras around that are worthy of your attention. The LX3 is a real improvement on your LX1. There are the 4/3rds cameras, which might be useful with the pancake lenses. I just bought the new Panasonic ZS3 (TZ7 in Europe) which will fit into your 501s better than the LX1, despite its awesome 25mm-300mm lens. I was trying it out today, and you can see the results below. I was quite far away from the subjects when I took the shots.”

Well, anyway, getting an M8 would have involved an extended diet of crow, not to mention an extended diet, period, so I dropped the idea. The Digital Pen makes the mistake of not having a proper viewfinder – sorry, but LCD screens do not cut it, nor does an arm-outstretched posture work when snapping pictures, at least not for this photographer – so that idea went the way of the dodo. By the time you add the optical viewfinder you have bulk equal to a small DSLR – and a lousy viewfinder.

I have rethought what I wrote here and have ordered a Panasonic G1 camera. Having scanned the reviews and now that the camera has been on the market for some 9 months, I concluded that it might do the trick – a fast, small and unobtrusive street snapper at modest cost. Even experienced photographers seem more than happy with the electronic viewfinder and the responsiveness. Although the camera is not pocketable, it is reminiscent of my old Pentax ME Super of bygone film days and it’s not like I am going to be heart broken if someone steals it. Try saying that about that dated antique, the Leica M8. If you ever remove it from the display case at home, that is.

The Panasonic G1. In blue. On order now!

Mine will come in blue because that looks really amateur which is important to me. I hate black, there’s no chrome version and the red is over the top – British Racing Green would have been nice. It comes with a somewhat underwhelmingly spec’d 14-45mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens, but that optic has garnered uniformly fine reviews and the inclusion of an image stabilizer in the lens goes some way to making up for the uninspiring maximum aperture. And the 28-90mm full frame-equivalent zoom range is just what the doctor ordered. Further, the sensor dust cleaner should counter one of the biggest bugaboos of my Canon 5D – sensor dust.

The Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) has enjoyed generally positive comments except in really poor light. Those EVFs I have tried so far are, simply stated, just awful. And while I refuse to hold my camera two feet away from my face, the swiveling LCD screen suggests some intriguing waist level opportunities if the LCD screen is remotely usable in bright light. It should be fine, I’m guessing, in poor light where it takes the place of the EVF.

While you can adapt Leica M lenses to the body, the 2x focal length magnification factor makes most of these less than ideal, and users have commented on the poor performance of the 28mm and wider Leica optics at the edges of the frame, owing to the dated, non-retrofocus optical designs which place the nodal point too close to the sensor and its photosites. At least that’s what they meant! Plus you are back to fear of theft again – have you priced Leica M optics recently? I don’t mind wearing $10k on my wrist but on my shoulder ready to be snatched? I don’t think so.

But the icing on the cake here, if the G1 works out, is the prospect of a 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens (=40mm) which will take me right back to my New York days, if not to New York, and that lovely ME Super with its superb 40mm Pancake Takumar. The 20mm lens has not been released at the time of writing.

Meanwhile, if you want mind-numbing technical analysis of the camera, you need go no further than DP Review, which sets the standard for objective analysis and measurement of modern digital cameras.

By the way, if you wonder why the Leica name is missing from the lens on the G1 (Leica has designed many lenses for recent point-and-shoot Panasonic cameras), just read this piece between the lines to see how Panasonic thinks. They use software to correct aberrations rather than making ever more expensive optics. Surely this is the way of the future?

I’m off to find some blue tape to obscure those awful manufacturer’s markings on the front.

Will this be the ‘digital M2’ I have been waiting for all these years? Time will tell, but it’s not a very costly experiment.

Actually, you can double that, consonant with my strict principle that a dollar blown on a toy dictates that a like amount be sent to my better half. That’s also a compelling reason not to get an M8!