Category Archives: Photographs

Art Deco masterpiece

Motorcycles, Photographs

The most beautiful motorcycle made.

Designed in 1934, the BMW R7 was a ‘one off’ show bike. BMW decided not to manufacture it as the Great Depression was sweeping across Europe and it would have been unaffordable to most.

The very height of Art Deco design, the bike came with an 800cc horizontally opposed twin engine, the forerunner of the 900cc unit in my 1975 R90/6. BMW last sold Airheads – air cooled, horizontally opposed twins as they are commonly known – in 1995. A sad day.



The hand shift gear lever connects to the gearbox with rod linkages.
Control cables are mostly hidden.


The white pinstripe provides relief for the black and silver livery.


This is a ‘hardtail’ design, with rear suspension provided by the sprung seat.


The left panel opens providing access to the fuel petcock and the tool roll.
The air cleaner is in the chrome cylindrical housing. Cloisonné tank badge.


The kickstarter kick rod folds out for easy operation for a seated rider.
Note the locking lever on the rear fender to allow it to be raised for ease of wheel removal.

All the above images taken by my friend Jared RL on his visit to the ‘Shape of Speed‘ exhibit in the Portland, Oregon Art Museum in 2018 (slow link, be patient).



Plain, unadorned valve covers are in keeping with the overall design.

You do not have to love motorcycles to revel in the beauty of this design, nor to fight nausea when you look at the modern incarnation.

Elliot Erwitt revisited

Photographers, Photographs

The master comedian of the camera.

One of the best measures of a man is whether he likes dogs. If he does not, fughedaboutit. It hardly comes as a surprise that the cretinous psychopath just booted from the Oval Office was the first US President in over a century not to have a dog. Heck, even Nixon had a dog, though I very much doubt any sane, rational human being would want to meet that dog’s owner.

So it’s a pleasure to read that that master comedian of the camera and all around dog lover, Elliot Erwitt, is still at it aged 92.



Elliot Erwitt’s Cairn terrier. Click the image for the article.

And if you must be choosy, it’s Scottish dogs which must feature high on any list. As a former Scottish Terrier owner, I know of what I speak, so it’s hardly surprising that Erwitt’s favorite was his Cairn terrier, a breed which hails from north of Hadrian’s Wall, like so many good things in life. Blood pudding, kilts, Scotch whisky, Harris Tweed, the bagpipes – all Scottish. And don’t forget James Watt and James Clerk Maxwell.



My Border terrier, Bertie. Click the image for a slide show of my dog snaps.

Handy SAM 1200 motorcycle lift – Part V

Motorcycles

The scissor jack and related modifications were detailed in Part IV.

The primary use of the jack is to raise the motorcycle close to its fore and aft fulcrum, using the oil sump as the jacking point. This process is required when either wheel has to be removed with the bike on the lift. The front wheel cannot be removed without use of the jack as it is anchored in the vise on the lift’s table. The rear wheel cannot be removed without use of a jack as my BMW airhead favors the rear wheel at rest. And the center stand cannot be deployed safely on the table without considerable strength and a host of related issues. As the bike is pulled up and back onto the center stand it moves back several inches, which cannot be done if the front wheel is in the vise, though there is a way to do this. See below.



Using a socket drill adapter bit to get the jack into position.

A 3/8″ socket drill adapter is used in a hand drill to raise the jack’s platform close to the oil pan. The screw in the jack has a fine pitch to confer mechanical advantage (not much stress on the user) but the trade off is that a lot of cranking is required. The electric drill makes this a speedy process.



Using a ratchet to raise the bike using the oil sump..

The front part of the oil sump is just ahead of the bike’s center of gravity which resides an inch or two behind the center stand pivot. That’s a small distance so there is very little turning moment on the jack itself, and little risk that it will tip forward.

As the ratchet is cranked first the rear wheel will rise off the table, permitting removal of the drop-in rear panel, removal of the wheel’s axle (one pinch bolt and one axle nut). The wheel can then be dropped down through the open panel space.



Drop-in panel removed to allow removal of the rear wheel.
Note the pneumatic bellows which are the raising device.

As the ratchet is operated and the bike rises, the front wheel, still clamped in the vise, permits rotation of the machine about the front axle. I have tie down straps installed at the front and these tighten up slightly as the front shock compresses. I did not find any need to loosen the tie downs.



Center stand deployed. No stress, no risk, no scratches.

If you are really strong and a master mechanic like William Plam, you can slam the center stand forward with the front wheel locked in the vise using skill and strength, scratching up your table’s surface in the process. You can see William do this at 27:03 in this video. His large collection of professionally made videos is a joy to watch, full of his decades of expertise and containing lots of tips and techniques. Highly recommended.

I am neither strong, nor a master mechanic and do not like scratched up tools, so I keep cranking on that ratchet until the bike rises a couple more inches at which point the center stand can be deployed by hand, no strength involved. As you can see, I use a monogrammed towel to protect the surface of the table. You can use a plain one if that’s all you have.

At this point the jack can be dropped and removed. If you are pulling the rear wheel you must secure the cross rail of the center stand to the front wheel’s rim, or to the exhaust cross flow pipe, or to the vise on the table. This obviates the risk of the bike falling off the center stand which has no rear wheel to prevent it doing so in the event the front wheel is not locked tightly in the vise.



Wheel vise loosened, crossbar removed and front wheel ready for removal.
Tie downs have been moved to the rear.

I am working on replacing the taper roller bearings in the front wheel hub so have to remove the front wheel – two axle pinch bolts must be loosened and the axle nut must be removed, along with a washer and spacer, for the axle to be withdrawn and the wheel rolled forward and out onto the workbench. In the next image I have removed the cross brace on the vise and made it possible to remove the wheel forward.

So that inexpensive jack paid for itself very quickly.



Front wheel removed, ready for bearing replacement.


Rear wheel removed, ready for bearing replacement.

Storage of the lift is easy, with movement about the garage greatly facilitated by the furniture dolly:



The lift is rolled into its storage location.

While I find the smallish workbench adequate for my needs, if additional workspace is needed the lift can be raised to workbench height.

Click here for a brief video showing how to place the bike on the lift.