Category Archives: Leica

All about the wonderful cameras from Wetzlar.

The Leica M10 1,000 snaps later

Happy, yet troubled.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.




Here’s a slideshow of 36 favorites from that opening salvo of 1,000.
36? Why, that’s the length of a roll of Kodachrome ….
Click the image to download the slideshow – it takes a while.

It has been a couple of months since I bought a used Leica M10 digital body, adding a selection of inexpensive and uniformly excellent lenses since. My return to the Leica M fold was after a 20 year hiatus, that in turn was preceded by 35 mostly happy years with the Leica M3 film body.

So what prompted this costly move? And we cannot proceed without admitting that when it comes to digital M ownership the elephant in the room is the price of entry, new or used. While a decent film M2 or M3 can be had for $1,500 reckon on $4,500 for an unmolested M10 and $6,000 or more for an M11. To put that in perspective my near mint Nikon D800 body cost $500 and came with a sensor every bit as good, including autofocus and anti-shake in the two AF-S lenses I favor, the 16-35mm and the 28-300mm. And when it comes to robustness and color rendering, there is little to choose between the marques. Forget all that talk of the ‘Leica look’ in images from an M. That’s just confirmation bias from owners contemplating the reduced status of their pocketbooks.

Well, I suppose the answer was that I wanted to relive the past, in part, for that first 35 years of M use saw me migrate from ingenue kid to seasoned snapper and, until the relatively affordable Canon 5D came along, a snapper more or less happy with film as a recording medium. Published work and prizes galore defined the early years of M3 ownership though once I started making a real living the desire for those faded. And the 5D changed everything. Resolution and the ease of image manipulation both jumped an order of magnitude and, best of all, the seemingly interminable wait for the return of results was no more. Plus there’s something really rather dumb about using an analog medium like film then having to have it scanned to share results. You think you are using ‘film’? How about a Noritsu scanner? Your work still becomes digital, if rather slowly. And as age increases every remaining hour is scarcer, and waiting is not a good thing. I really would prefer to see my snaps before I croak.

However, Leica, late to the game and having lost the professional market to Nikon, Canon and the upstart Sony (née Minolta), decided to reposition the M as an aspirational, luxury Veblen good and the wisdom of that decision is reflected in its recent record financial results. Realistically, the digital Leica M has no competition when it comes to design and function. But the realization dawns that once upon a time the film rangefinder Leica was the fastest way of focusing a lens. Now in the digital age, it is the slowest. But it still works for me.

And aesthetics and design integrity cannot be denied here. I have always maintained that a good tool makes you a better operator, be it a Starrett T square or caliper which make you a better carpenter, a Porsche which makes you a better driver or a Leica which makes you a better photographer. Each is beautiful in its own way. The happy result is that you feel duty bound to try and do justice to these long-evolved machines and, let’s face it, the Leica M is a thing of quite special beauty. The severe Bauhaus lines owe nothing to the mess of the Barnack Leica era with its plethora of knobs, buttons and protrusions and the Nikon F’s brutal lines certainly copied nothing from the M3. Today the amorphous blobs from the Japanese all start looking alike, all are immensely capable, are invariably tremendous value at their many price points and …. lack character.

Now there’s character and there’s character. In a British sports car character is defined by a reluctance to start and often a greater one to proceed. That’s not good character. That’s schlocky engineering. But Leica has been refining the M body since the M3 of 1954 and, while their first stumbles into digital were disappointing, with the M10 they finally got the size and shape back to M3 and M2 dimensions and, goodness, absent the film winding lever, the camera feels and almost sounds like that M3 of yore. And that inspires me mightily to try and do it justice for in the history of twentieth century cameras three defined the medium – the original Leica I, the M3 and the Nikon F. The M3 poses a mighty legacy to aspire to.

Today exposure automation in the M10, first seen in the film M7, is greatly welcomed. Sure IBIS would be nice but technology must shrink further before the M body can accommodate it. It’s a good bet it will eventually. As for auto-focus, forget it. Have you seen the size of lenses which have it? (Contax made a magnificent effort decades ago by moving the film plane instead of the lens to achieve AF, but again the question remains whether the svelte M body can accommodate that technology. One can but dream.) And there’s a special pleasure to using the M rangefinder which is, if anything, further improved over the already stellar design in the M3 and M2. A switchable internal auxiliary magnifier, in lieu of the clunky screw in separate eyepiece, would be welcome for use with fast 90mm and any 135mm lens, but again that body is already so tightly packed it may be asking too much.

But there’s no denying there’s an undeniable tactile and aural pleasure to using the M10 and I confess to a frisson every time I release the shutter. That alone (almost) makes the high cost of entry (almost) bearable. Almost.

In the opening I stated “Happy, yet troubled”, for the simple reason that there’s something rather obscene about spending almost $5,000 on a used camera body when competent alternatives can be had for a fraction of that amount. However, I console myself that with the cost of a 36 exposure roll of film, processed and scanned, now approaching $50, with 1,000 exposures under my belt I have recovered almost 50% of the $3,000 cost premium over the film body. Another 1,000 exposures or so and I’m ahead of the game ….

135mm Leitz Elmar – some results

An excellent lens for very little.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.

Sharp with excellent micro-contrast even at full aperture, this 65 year old Leitz 135mm f/4 Elmar lens is excellent for capturing architectural details and street candids, though the latter can be a real challenge given the lens’s demand for correct focus, which can take time with the long throw focus collar.

Some examples snapped yesterday – architecture first. Five of these can be clicked for a much larger version:




Click for a bigger version. Note that even focused close to infinity
at f/8 the lens delivers very shallow depth of field.



Click for a bigger version. Check the definition in the glass
globe and wall stickers in the big version.



Click for a bigger version.


Click for a bigger version.






Click for a bigger version

And some candids – all were cropped from one quarter of the 24mp RAW file, making the focal length equivalent to 270mm. Unlike, say, with a 21mm or 35mm focal length, ‘spray and pray’ is not a winning strategy with the 135mm. Careful handholding and accurate focus are the order of the day:



Sure hope they like those tattoos, because
they are stuck with them for life.


Another tattoo freak. The camera was panned to
enhance background blur.


Taking in the sun.

The resolution is as good as anything money can buy and the main caveat is that, without solid technique and a properly adjusted rangefinder (check the link in the opening paragraph, above), results will be disappointing.

Five cheap lenses for the Leica M

Great bargains.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.

Background:

This piece summarizes the specifications, costs and modifications made to my recently acquired kit of five lenses, ranging from 21mm to 135mm, for the Leica M10. They are every bit as usable on film M bodies. Well, some of the time. Two or three are from Canon (depending on your 135mm choice), one or two are from Leitz (ditto) and one is from Voigtländer. With the exception of the 21mm Voigtländer Color-Skopar VM Aspherical all are over 50 years old and the average cost was under $400. That’s chump change compared with what Leica’s contemporary optics command on either the new or used market.



The Leica M10 outfit. The 21mm lens is on the camera with its auxiliary finder.
135mm Leitz Elmar not shown.

Dispelling a myth:

I keep reading that ‘modern digital sensors out resolve older lenses’. This is a meaningless statement. Out resolve compared with what? I can state from experience that every one of these lenses delivers much higher and finer grained resolution on the M10’s 24mp sensor than even the best technique used with a film M body and fine grained Kodak Ektar 100. Further, the Ektar is so slow it is very likely that camera shake will be added to the image owing to the need for longer, resolution-destroying shutter speeds. When it comes to the 135mm focal length where camera shake is especially prevalent, it’s little exaggeration to say that poor light hand-held photography with film is a waste of time. Where the M10 – happily cranks up the ISO to a noise-free 6400, the film-loaded M remains stuck at 100. That’s 6 stops slower. Stated differently, the digital snapper will be using 1/500th at f/4 whereas the proud owner of the M2 or M3 will be using 1/8th at the same aperture. Night and day different. Still, the film guy does get to enjoy the sensation of winding on from one blurred frame to the next. Or maybe his deliverable is a postcard-sized print? What a waste of a Leica.

So forget the ‘out resolve’ nonsense, forget film and enjoy these lenses better than they ever were back in the day by using a modern digital sensor and a short shutter speed. The later M10R (40mp) and M11 (60mp) upped the resolution ante and dynamic range, so you can expect even better results with these later digital bodies.

Drawbacks?

Sure, the ancient single coating on older lenses is far less flare resistant than the multi-coating applied to modern optics. But then again, the film era snapper did not have Lightroom, and a couple of simple tweaks on the sliders, especially the ‘dehaze’ one, and your ancient lens just acquired the equivalent of modern coatings. Takes less time to do than to write.

Age:

With lenses over 50 years old expect to have quite a search for good examples. Lubricants dry out, multiple owners suggest a possibly troubled history, poor storage leads to rust or oil on the diaphragm blades with haze, scratches and mould common. So be a skeptical buyer and ask all the right questions to put matters on the record with eBay should the seller lie to you.

Enhancements:

  • The shoulder bag is described here.
  • The 21mm finder is described here
  • Replacement of the ghastly red dot is here.
  • The added silicone dome on the Focus button is here.

Non-Leica glass:

If you think only Leica glass should grace a Leica body cease reading this. Any number of aftermarket makers made and make fine optics for the Leica rangefinder bodies. Get real.

When I acquired my Leica M10 I was certain of one thing. I was not going to buy Leica glass – new or used – at the exorbitant prices demanded. The sole exceptions are the Leitz Canada 90mm Tele-Elmarit, as it is bargain-priced on the used market, and the similarly bargain-priced 135mm Elmar. Some of the great classic Leica Thread Mount (LTM) lenses were made by Canon in the 1960-70 era and these are abundantly available used, albeit largely from Japanese vendors whose prose on eBay is optimistic, to put it mildly. ‘Mint’ in Japanese English pretty much means ‘shot’, as often as not. But that’s nothing some serious due diligence, done before hitting the ‘Buy’ button, would not overcome. Canon made some outstanding lenses in that era.

While there are many new contemporary Chinese lenses to be had at bargain prices, most have very large apertures along with the bulk and weight those bring, not in keeping with the Leica concept of ‘small camera, small lens’. Plus I’m naturally averse to buying products from a nation sworn to destroy us. So those were not candidates.

Outlay:

My total outlay for all five optics was $1,500-$1,600, which is half the amount you can expect to pay for one contemporary used Leica lens. That’s more a comment on Leica’s ridiculous pricing, not on my ability to track down bargains. Here they are with links to my historical notes as well as to resolution tests. You can pretty much correct for most lens faults in Lightroom but you cannot find resolution if it’s missing. In summary, these old lenses have never been better.

The cost shown below in all cases includes a protective UV filter (do not waste money on Leica branded filters which cost ten times what regular ones sell for) and an LTM-to-M bayonet adapter for the three LTM lenses. Again, avoid the Leica branded adapters ($$$). I do not use lens hoods, finding them to largely be a waste of time, with bulk added. If you get flare the ‘Dehaze’ slider in LRc is your friend.

Finish quality:

Engraving quality on the three Canon lenses is as good as it gets, meaning Leica quality, and the paint filling shows no sign of fading or discoloration. Black anodizing and satin chrome and equally high quality. Those on the Voigtländer are a step down and quite why they cannot provide proper indexes for mounting and for the aperture ring is a mystery. The paint fillings on the aperture ring of the Leitz 90mm lens were badly faded and had to be refreshed. Easy fix.

6-bit coding:

6-bit coding is the bees’ knees, enhancing already fine performance with digital sensors. It’s also very easy to add. I use the cheap Fotodiox LTM-to-M bayonet adapters which come in plain and 6-bit coded versions for very little. All five are 6-bit coded to ensure correct EXIF lens data. The Tele-Elmarit came with a 6-bit flange but I had to add codes to the other four lenses.

Optical quality and weight:

All five are optically and mechanically outstanding with most peaking a stop or two down from fully open. The exception is the 135mm Elmar which is pretty much perfect at full aperture. Weights below are with a UV filter in all cases and LTM-to-M bayonet adapters for the three Canons. The weight of all five optics combined is just 2 lbs. 12 ozs. with only the 135mm not really being pocketable.

Very wide – 21mm f/3.5 Voigtländer Color-Skopar VM Aspherical:

Background: Here
Resolution tests: Here
Cost: $350 used – like new
Crappy 21mm finder: Here.
Filter size: 39mm
Minimum focus distance: 0.5 meters, couples down to 0.6 meters
Weight: 185 grams/6.5 ozs. The finder adds 0.2 ozs.
6-bit code: ‘000001’ (Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8)
Modifications: Red dome mounting index added. Aperture index added on UV filter.
Leica equivalent: 21mm f/3.4 Super Elmar-M ASPH – $3,600
Notes: The Color-Skopar is available new for $650. The stock mounting and aperture indexes are shockingly poor. The lens is optically outstanding but flare resistance is no better than with the older lenses. US seller.

Wide – 35mm f/2 Canon LTM:

Background: Here
Resolution tests: Here
Cost: $400 used – like new
Filter size: 40mm
Minimum focus distance: 1 meter
Weight: 139 grams/4.9 ozs.
6-bit code: ‘000110’ (Summicron-M 35mm f/2 (IV))
Modifications: Red dome mounting index added.
Leica equivalent: 35mm f/2 Summicron-M ASPH – $4,200
Notes: An absolute gem, if you can find a clean one. Japanese seller.

Standard – 50mm f/1.4 Canon LTM:

Background: Here
Resolution tests: Here
Cost: $300 used – like new
Filter size: 48mm
Minimum focus distance: 1 meter
Weight: 269 grams/9.5 ozs.
6-bit code: ‘000101’ (Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 (II))
Modifications: Red dome mounting index added.
Leica equivalent: 50mm f/1.4 Summilux-M – $4,800
Notes: The lens locking button fell off and I had to procure an aftermarket spring to get things back together properly. That and a drop of Loctite 242 to keep the assembly bolted together. A fine lens if you can find a clean one. Japanese seller.

Portrait – 90mm f/2.8 ‘thin’ Tele-Elmarit:

Background: Here
Resolution tests: Here
Cost: $460 used – good user, some dust inside, otherwise clean glass
Click stops: Irritating half stop clicks
Filter size: 39mm
Minimum focus distance: 1 meter
Weight: 217 grams/7.7 ozs.
6-bit code: ‘000100’ (Tele-Elmarit-M 90mm f/2.8 (II))
Modifications: None
Modern Leica equivalent: 90mm f/4 Macro-Elmar-M – $4,200
Notes: It’s tiny, and bargain-priced as these things go. Stop it down to f/4 or smaller and it’s excellent at all apertures thereafter. I had to refill the paint fillings for the faded aperture markings. US seller.

Telephoto – 135mm f/3.5 Canon LTM or 135mm f/4 Leitz Elmar:


Background: Here
Canon resolution tests: Here
Canon modifications: Red dome mounting index added. Focus cam extended and modified with epoxy for accurate focusing. The stock positioning of the cam prevents the rangefinder in any Leica M from working properly.
Cost: Canon – $148 used – mint, close to new. Leitz – $262 – used, mint
Click stops; Full stops on the Canon, frustrating half stops on the Leitz
Filter size: 48mm/39mm
Minimum focus distance: 1.5 meters
Weight: Both – 446 grams/15.8 ozs.
6-bit code: Canon – ‘001001’ (Elmarit-M f/2.8); Leitz – M10 set to 135mm f/2.8 uncoded lens
Modern Leica equivalent: 135mm f/3.4 Apo-Telyt-M – $3,400
Notes: Both are as good as it gets for very little money. The Canon is the 8th and last version made, 1971. Japanese seller. The Leitz was made in 1960. US seller. While the Canon needs cam modification, the Leitz lens works straight out of the box. In either case correct rangefinder alignment is critical for accurate focus and even then accurate focus remains a challenge at larger apertures and/or closer focus distances. I recommend focus bracketing. The Elmar is meaningfully better than the Canon as regards both resolution of fine detail as well as absence of flare at all apertures. Make Really Large Prints and you will see the difference. But it also costs a little more. The Leitz lens cannot be 6-bit coded but by leaving the camera manual lens setting at ‘135mm f/2.8 Elmarit’ that profile is automatically invoked when this sole uncoded lens is mounted. All the other lenses are 6-bit coded and will invoke the correct profile for each, overriding this manual setting.

135mm f/4 Leitz Elmar lens

A fine long focus optic.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.


The 135mm f/4 Elmar on my Leica M3. Leitz ball head and tripod.


The lens head detached. The assembling technician has
scribed the exact focal length of 135.5mm on the inner tube and
the “55” engraving on the external focus collar confirms this.

Background:

The 135mm focal length for Leica M rangefinder cameras has largely fallen from favor, yet it’s an intriguing optic, especially if strongly out-of-focus backgrounds are called for. It poses some challenges in use but this lengthy piece gives background to its use for best results.

While the 135mm Canon LTM is an excellent long focus lens I could not let the chance of snapping up a pristine Leitz 135mm Elmar at a bargain price pass. I paid $260 shipped from a US seller. Made between 1960-1965 the lens was replaced by the telephoto design 135mm f/4 Tele-Elmar (physically shorter if probably no sharper), and later by the 135mm f/3.4 Apo-Telyt. Indicative used prices are $250-300 Elmar, $350-400 Tele-Elmar and $silly for the Apo-Telyt. 135mm Elmars are a bargain as that focal length has largely fallen out of favor with Leica M users and, indeed, Leica no longer lists any optics in this focal length. However, all M Leicas save the M2 (and the M1, MD, etc.) include the 135mm frame in their various viewfinders.

Choosing a lens:

When looking for an Elmar of this vintage be aware of the usual bugbears – uneven focus collar resistance, oil or corrosion on the aperture blades, haze and mould. And, of course, look out for lenses from previous owners who saw to it that their use of a tie to clean the front element wreaked havoc on the soft lens coating of the time, leaving scratches galore. One thing you do not have to worry about is balsam separation as the simple four element design has no cemented components. Used examples are abundantly available.

The design:

This is a no compromise mechanical design with a 12 (!) leaf diaphragm, solid brass internals and a vulcanite covered rear part to break up the large area of satin chrome. That number of diaphragm leaves sees to it that out-of-focus areas are rendered smoothly with no ugly polygonal artifacts. And yes, there’s a red half dome index for easy mounting of the lens on the M body. The lens is a delight on any Leica M, and no one does satin chrome finishes better. Beautiful to behold and very hard wearing. If you are into patina, look elsewhere. You want a black anodized finish? Prepare for ugly wear. Though made in Germany, it was designed by the great Walter Mandler at the now defunct Ernst Leitz, Midland, Ontario factory in Canada, so you get the best of the New World and the Old.

Like the Canon the Elmar has a very long focus throw of some 345 degrees from infinity to 5 feet. At 5 feet, without a hood, the tip of the lens with a UV filter fitted just touches the lower right corner of the related finder frame, meaning the body of the lens never interferes with the finder’s view on an M10. While the long focus throw does not make for fast focusing it does allow precise focusing and, believe me, you need that at larger apertures and shorter focus distances. The lens weighs 15oz/426 grams without caps but with a protective UV filter (39mm) fitted.

Rangefinder adjustment is critical:

The need for a properly aligned rangefinder cannot be overstressed with a 135mm lens. You need a 2mm Allen wrench to adjust the eccentrically mounted cam follower/roller, and I suggest you photograph a bookcase with a row of books at an angle to the camera, the camera on a tripod and the lens at full aperture, focused near the minimum distance of 5 feet. Books? Because the fine print on their spines makes for easy determination of the point of optimum focus. Tripod? Because you do not want to confuse movement blur with inaccurate focus. Take a snap then adjust the roller/cam follower as shown, take another snap, and so on, until the book’s spine you focused on and the sharpest spine in the image imported to Lightroom are one and the same:


Make adjustments of no more than 2-3 degrees of arc at a
time and iterate the process until focus is perfect.

It took me a good half dozen attempts before I nailed it, but boy, was it satisfying or what? You really see what this lens is capable of with this simple process.

To give you an idea of the sensitivity of this setting a movement of 2-3 degrees of the Allen screw in the eccentrically mounted cam roller results in a focus change of 2-3″ at a focus distance of 7 feet. 2-3 degrees? That’s a small enough amount that you can barely tell that you have rotated the screw. That screw is stiff by design so take some time to get a feel for the amount of torque needed to turn it and take it a bit at a time to avoid frustration. This way you should be able to creep up on the optimal setting not oscillating crazily either side of what is needed, finally taking it one step too far and then backing it off to perfection. To make things easier, keep the tripod in a fixed position and the lens focus collar setting unchanged. If you refocus each time you are introducing another variable – operator focus error. Stick some Scotch tape on the focus collar to prevent accidental movement. On a film body, like an M2 or an M3, the adjuster is a slotted screw so you’ll need a right angled screwdriver to properly access it. Alternatively, grind down the tip of your screwdriver to an acute angle. (Or buy one from Leica for $5,000, I suppose). And good luck round-tripping this process using film! By the way, it only took Leica some 50 years to realize that an Allen head was a superior answer to the slotted screw original. Still, they had used that design for over 50 years, so why change it? Sometimes I think that the pace of change at Leica makes the Vatican look like it’s speeding ….

Which is out of alignment – camera or lens?:

In my experience Leica rangefinders go out of adjustment far more easily than Leica lenses. It’s more likely your rangefinder is incorrectly adjusted than your lens, unless the latter has been dropped. The analytical process is simple:

  • Optimize your rangefinder as above with the 135mm lens at full aperture. It does not get more critical than that.
  • Now swap the 135mm for a shorter lens and take test snaps at full aperture.
  • Into LRc and see whether the point of optimum focus is what the rangefinder tells you. If it is, well and good.
  • If not one or other of your two lenses is out, so try with a third lens.
  • If the two shorter ones are both out then the 135mm needs adjustment. This is a job for an experienced technician and not a DIY project. Reckon on $150 plus postage plus time. You might as well get the lubricants refreshed while you are at it. Also consider asking the technician to add 6-bit coding pits.
  • Chances are that if your 135mm is correctly adjusted to your rangefinder all shorter lenses will be fine, as small focus errors will be covered by increased depth of field with the shorter lenses. By the time you get to 35mm or 21mm DoF is so substantial that you can almost guarantee the rangefinder will deliver sharp results.

In camera lens correction profile:

I have found the 135mm f/2.8 Elmarit in-camera profile of the M10 delivers the best corner detail, noticeably so at large apertures with pixel peeping at 100% in LRc. (The other choices in the M10 are the 135mm Tele-Elmar and the 135mm Apo-Telyt). The Leitz 135mm Elmar cannot be 6-bit coded (unless you send it out to a technician to have the code pits engraved) but by leaving the camera’s manual lens setting at ‘135mm f/2.8 Elmarit’ that profile is automatically invoked when this sole uncoded lens is mounted. All my other lenses are 6-bit coded and will invoke the correct profile for each, overriding this manual setting when mounted on the M10. Images show no distortion or color fringing and little except depth-of-field is gained by stopping the lens down. It has excellent resolution even at full aperture, all the way to the corners, reflecting Leitz’s early use of rare earth glass in its design.

The non-rotating focus mount:

The lens has a double helicoid focusing mount – unlike the single one in the Canon – meaning the aperture ring does not rotate as the lens is focused. Nice, though why Leitz chose to add click-half stops beats me. A solution looking for a problem. At least the aperture settings are equally spaced. So why does the lens have a mirror aperture scale underneath the regular one? Because the lens head is detachable to use on short barrel focus collars when fitted to the old Visoflex mirror box and the focus mounts for those are single helicoid, meaning the aperture ring rotates when the lens is focused.

The depth of field scale:

I also suggest you disregard the engraved depth of field scale. This was determined assuming far smaller print sizes – using film – than permitted by modern digital sensors. DoF for a 13″x19″ print is far shallower than for a 5″x7″ one. Stated differently, DoF for big prints is considerably less than the DoF scale on the lens suggests.

The Visoflex reflex housing:

No one in his right mind uses the old Visoflex any more – though it fits the M10 body perfectly – but credit to Leitz for their foresightful thinking. In the 1960s when this lens came to market Leitz was struggling mightily to keep up with innovative, landmark camera and lens designs from the likes of Nikon and Pentax. Unfortunately, the clunky and massive Visoflex II and III were not exactly in keeping with the Leica design ethos, and probably did little to stem the bleeding of sales to the Japanese. The massive hunk of the prism viewfinder of the Visoflex added weight but not brightness to the image viewed through it. Not that it was a new idea for Leitz. The pre-war Visoflex I was even clunkier, but sort of worked and all three are fine for lab work, especially with the waist level finder fitted. And SLRs did not exist pre-war so the Visoflex was the only game in town. Modern digital Leicas accept the later EVF versions of the Visoflex which looks every bit as wrong on the camera as the old mechanical one, though mercifully it is much smaller and lighter. The Leica M is a rangefinder camera, but Leica continues to deny this with the EVF. Forget all this nonsense with reflex housings/kludges.


The Visoflex II on an M3 with the 200mm Telyt.

To compound their problems Leitz introduced the Leicaflex in 1964, a design which was immediately a generation behind the best from Japan. But that’s a story for another day. Suffice it to say that when it came to shooting themselves in the foot, Ernst Leitz had awesome aim in the 1960s. But there was little wrong with the 135mm Elmar whose use of newly computed glass formulae was truly state-of-the-art.

Getting best results:

None of these diversions should deter ownership of the 135mm Elmar as a long, rangefinder coupled lens. To get the best results, just make sure your rangefinder is accurately tuned to meet the focusing demands of this fine and inexpensive lens, and use fast shutter speeds to minimize definition destroying camera shake. Better to up the ISO for a shorter shutter speed and get some grain than have an image ruined by motion blur. Sometimes those can be recovered, but don’t count on it.


Kids at play. M10, 135mm Elmar at f/8. A crop from 1/4 of the file.


Walking the pug. M10, 135mm Elmar at f/8.
Click the image for a big version.

First results appear here.

Resolution tests appear here.

A focus tab for the 35mm f/2 Canon LTM lens

A handy improvement.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.



The 7Artisans tab in place on the Canon 35mm f/2 LTM lens.

Leica originally fitted its 35mm lenses with a locking plunger as a focus collar aide. This would lock focus at infinity, making removal from the M’s bayonet mount easier (there’s little to grip at the base of the lens) as well as providing purchase for the left index finger for focusing. It works well.

Some time in the 1960s this plunger gave way to a shaped protrusion which is, if anything, even better. Some lenses retained the infinity lock though that’s largely gone out of fashion. The point remains that the focus collar on small 35mm lenses is narrow and not that easy to grasp and the protrusion makes focusing much easier.

I am finding that the 35mm f/2 Canon LTM lens, with a bayonet adapter for the M body is an outstanding optic, very much at home on the M10. Small, fast, wonderfully sharp, and pretty much the standard lens for street snapping. Having added a glued-on half dome index for easier mounting of the lens, it remained to do something about the total absence of a focus tab. Strangely, while Canon includes a locking tab on the 50mm f/1.4 LTM lens, none is to be found on any of the many versions of the 35mm optic.

7Artisans to the rescue.



Correct placement.

The 7Artisans ‘focus wrench’ (!) is available from Amazon for under $10, and includes a (3M, no less, if you believe that) sticky contact patch. It adheres well. What’s not to like?