Category Archives: Film

Kodachrome – the only excuse to use film

Gone, but not forgotten.

The Big Yellow God. Thus was Kodak known in the 1970s because you mailed your exposed Kodachrome slide film in a yellow mailer to Rochester, NY and time and the USPS permitting, you would get your slides back, beautifully mounted in 2″x2″ cardboard, in a yellow box, in a couple of weeks.


The Ektachrome outlier was their 160ASA/ISO speed demon!

In 1970 Kodak lost a trust busting suit which allowed only the BYG to process Kodachrome and the floodgates opened to independent processing shops who could afford the costly gear and crack the 17-step process, which included a couple of re-exposure steps to effect reversal of the image. Consonant with that old economic adage that “All control drives up price” prices crashed and Kodachrome became the most popular film on the planet. That explains the above slides lacking the Kodak imprimatur on the cardboard mount. They were processed by indie shops which had a faster turnaround.


The Kodachrome process.

While my color snapping had seen but one roll of Kodachrome exposed in Paris along with one of grain crazy Ansco/GAF’s 500, I no longer had a darkroom after taking my last TriX monochrome image and, quite frankly, I was bored to death with black and white. So why not the best? I loaded up my Leica with Kodachrome 64 (I considered the 25 ASA alternative too slow) and had at it. This was in November, 1977.


My first color image in the US. November, 1977, Anchorage, AK.


Indie Kodak processing lab, Anchorage.


Harsh and high contrast.


Kodachrome yellows and reds were to die for.


On the Natchez, Mississippi River, New Orleans.


Brennan’s, New Orleans.


Bourbon Street, New Orleans.


New Orleans.


Bergdorf’s, NYC.


NYC.

Kodachrome was a very contrasty film with unique rendering of yellows and reds. It was not especially fine grained, as these ultra-high resolution scans from my Nikon D800 disclose. At ISO 100 on the D800’s monster 36mp sensor there is zero digital ‘grain’. You only see what was stored on the film itself. No matter. They print just fine.

Leica M3 and Leicaflex SL, 50mm Summicron, Kodachrome 64, ‘scanned’ on the Nikon D800.

Film was awful. It still is.

Don’t waste your time on obsolete technologies.

For an index of all my Film related articles, click here.


All in one piece.

My film ‘scanning’ project is almost complete. You can see a video of the technique here.

Suffice it to say that this is the only efficient, high quality way of scanning a large number of film negatives or slides.

Starting on February 4, some 59 days ago, I have scanned over 164 rolls of 36 exposure monochrome film, totaling over 5,900 exposures. 2,198 or 37% of those were ‘keepers’, a high rate in an age of free imaging with vast, low cost digital storage technologies, where a 3% success rate is considered high. I spent 1-2 hours daily doing this for a total time sink of some 100 hours. That included printing the best images for my large format print albums.

To have attempted this project using either a dedicated film scanner (reasonable definition, slow) or flat bed scanner (poor definition, molasses slow) would have taken for ever and it’s simply not a good use of time. Further, the modest investment in a macro lens and illuminated film strip attachment for this project, both easily resold, is lower than any of the alternatives. And the quality of the ‘scans’ is drop dead gorgeous, more definition retrieved from 50 year old negatives than I could have possibly dreamed of.


Yellowed glassines but pristine film inside

What is good about film? Not much. All mine were developed in a Paterson System 4 developing tank, available still and little changed. What appears to be missing is the handy clip-in hose which was attached to a tap and pumped water through the reel into the bottom of the tank, displacing fixer residue and assuring permanence. You did this for 30 minutes, wasting shocking quantities of water. Why 30 minutes? Because no one new any better and, if you wanted your originals to survive, more was better than less. Maybe 5 minutes would have sufficed. We will never know.

As for scan quality, the Nikon D800 I used delivered in spades. I started using 14-bit uncompressed RAW which delivered a 75mp file. Later I switched to 12-bit lossless compressed and the quality was indistinguishable, the file size halving to 36mp. Key to the efficiency of this process was the Negative Lab Pro Lightroom plugin which automated the reversal of negative image to positive. I would do this once on the first negative frame then save the whole process as a Preset. That Preset was then set up in the LR Tethered capture dialog box, with the D800 connected by a USB cable to LR. ‘Scan’ the image and, Hey Presto!, 5 seconds later the properly reversed positive image appears in LR. LR does not allow crop settings to be saved in the Preset, but other than that the process is about as automated as it gets. I would ‘scan’ two films – 72 exposures – daily and the scanning part would take maybe 5 seconds an image.

Don’t even think of using some sort of copying attachment where the camera and film stage are physically separated. And forget about futzing with glass plates in a futile effort to keep the film as flat as possible. You will simply collect more dust and possibly Newton rings in the process. Anti-Newton ring glass? The quickest way to destroy the definition of your scanned image. I found that stopping down the 60mm Micro-Nikkor macro lens to f/13 provided adequate depth of field for edge-to-edge sharply defined grain and ISO100 means that there is no digital ‘grain’. Deny these realities and you will waste immense amounts of time framing and focusing, and many of your efforts will be duds. The hardware I used unifies the camera, the film stage/film strip holder and the included LED light source. Alignment issues are a thing of the past and auto exposure and auto focus are the bees’ knees. Camera shake? Impossible. Camera and film are one.

Which brings us to one of the worst aspects of analog film. Dust and dirt. It’s one thing to speed the scanning process to deliver a high quality image. It’s quite another to remove all the dust and hairs which bedevil the medium. Time varied but particularly dirty originals might take a minute to retouch using LR’s excellent tools for this purpose. Ugh!

Follow the above instructions and I can guarantee that really large prints from your ‘scans’ will be the order of the day, provided your originals are of good quality. Mine are.

Anyway, this whole process made me revisit some of the horrors of film. Now it’s not like there was an alternative in 1974 as no one had thought up digital imaging until the brilliant engineer Steve Sasson at Kodak came up with a prototype a year later. Kodak bungled development of the technology (“There will never be a time when film will be obsolete” said one of the brain’s trust board directors), went bankrupt in the process and a quarter century later Canon and Nikon marketed really good ‘prosumer grade’ full frame DSLRs which were almost affordable at $3,000 for the body. The Canon 5D and Nikon D700. Film died that day. These 12mp bodies remain superb, bargain priced performers to this day.

But film was genuinely awful as a recording and storage medium.

Metadata? Nope. Good luck finding that special image.

Robust, scratch and dirt free permanent image retention? Nope.

Oh! but the superior tonal range! Well, maybe cut back on the funny cigarettes.

And whatever you do, to deliver an image to the world, whether printed or on a display screen, you have to get film digitized in any case. So much for ‘analog workflow’. Use of film in today’s world is akin to three bald men arguing over a comb. An exercise in futility.

Tonal range? This is like vinyl LP nuts insisting that the quality of vinyl sound beats everything else. I challenge you to distinguish my D800 digital originals from the film version. Well, yes, you probably will. Just as the LP is distinguishable by its click, pops, scratches and poor signal-to-noise ratio, so is film distinguishable by its awful definition, low sensitivity, poor dynamic range and superabundance of dirt and scratches. It’s hard to think of a more fragile storage medium. If you are a crank who places more value on the backroom processes of developing and scanning film than on the taking of photographs, film is just the ticket.

For everyone else, film is awful. And it always was.


My last monochrome film image.
She is rushing to pick up a digital camera.

OK, Mr. Opinionated Weisenheimer, you say. So you used film for decades and maybe you know what you are speaking of, but I still want to use film. Then I suggest you cannot do better than the Nikon F100. It has auto exposure, auto focus, takes all Nikon Ai lenses and later and has auto film advance. It’s made to a high standard and can be found easily for $150 or less. This body gives you access to a large range of bargain priced Nikon lenses, MF or AF and, when you come to your senses and migrate or return to digital, those lenses will work seamlessly along with your newly found sanity.

Scanning film with a DSLR – video

A brief video guide to scanning film with a DSLR.

For an index of all my Film related articles, click here.


The Lightroom preset includes exposure, contrast and clarity adjustments as well as invoking the Negative Lab Pro converter plugin which changes the negative image to a positive one. I also hit ‘V’ before saving the preset which ensures that the image is converted to black and white, any color casts being removed. Do this on your first ‘scanned’ image and save the preset in the Devlop module, Develop->New Preset->Name your preset. Start the tethering process (Develop module, File->Tethered Capture->Start Tethered Capture) and input the starting number of the first negative.


I have input the starting frame number in the tethering dialog. The number for the starting ‘scan’ is identical to that of the negative in my physical film strip binder.

Then tell the tethering panel to use that preset. In the case below the preset is named ‘D800 scan’.


The preset is enabled in the tethering panel.

Now when you ‘scan’ the negative the file will be correctly numbered when sent to LR and will have your exposure adjustments and negative-to-positive conversion automated.

Links for equipment used can be found in earlier articles.

Nikon D800 film scanning – Part IV

Can you say ‘fast’?

For an index of all my Film related articles, click here.

There is absolutely no upside to time spent scanning old films, other than the end result. The process is of surpassing tedium and the goal of the previous three articles, starting here, has been to make this process fast and seamless, without sacrificing a commitment to the highest quality results.

With LR tethering working well and a carefully tailored import preset dialed in in the tethering panel (exposure, contrast, vibrance and so on) I set about the project seriously and here is this morning’s result:


28 scans, 47 minutes.

Yup, 28 high quality scans in just 47 minutes and that includes negative strip selection and insertion in the film strip carrier, dusting, image recording using the D800 rig, conversion in Lightroom from negative to positive (in the import settings, so it’s automated), dust retouching – the most time consuming step though LR’s clone/heal tool is excellent and fast – and final contrast/exposure/vibrance tweaks. And I was not rushing things. The final step is to rename the files to conform with the original negative numbers should the originals ever need to be retrieved. The computer is a 2010 MacPro with two 3.47gHz 6 core CPUs, 96gB of 1333MHz RAM and an Nvidia 980GTX GPU.

The results are ready for printing …. large:


Magnificent English sheepdog.

These were taken at Crufts Dog Show in February, 1972. Leica M3, 50mm and 90mm Elmar lenses, TriX processed in Microphen pushed to 800ASA/ISO.

Nikon D800 film scanning – Part III

Some further efficiency fixes and related notes.

For an index of all my Film related articles, click here.

In Part II I looked at batch inversion and color negative imaging. Here I look at tethered capture and focusing considerations.

Tethered capture: Lightroom has long supported tethered capture with many Nikon and Canon cameras; the camera is connected with a cable to the computer and after tethered capture is enabled (File->Tethered Capture->Start Tethered Capture) this panel will appear on the display:


The tethered capture information panel.

Comments on user fora suggest many have issues getting LR to recognize supported cameras – indeed I had that issue – and one fix from Adobe goes as follows. Go to this directory in Finder:


This is the file to erase.

Erase the highlighted file – this is for LR6. It will be recreated when you next start LR. After doing that my tethered D800 was recognized fine.

I wrote about tethered capture here and because Nikon uses the fragile USB2/USB3 Mini USB connector I strongly recommend you concoct a strain relief at the camera end, whether a piece of wire, as I show, or the more elegant Nikon USB Cable Clip. Damaging the camera body will not make your day when that sub-optimal connector is yanked/torqued out accidentally.

Why tether? Because you see the image on a large display seconds after pressing the shutter button. Nothing is recorded on the camera’s CF or SD card. The image is sent straight into LR where sharpness and alignment are easily judged. This speeds work flow and you can bang away at those old negatives with abandon, watching the images pop up on the display. You no longer have to remove the SD/CF card from the camera and insert it in your card reader.

Film strip orientation. There a lot of nonsense written about making sure the matte side of the negative faces the lens. I tried both ways, flipping the image for comparison. This image has microfine detail in the child’s pullover and there is no distinguishable difference between matte side and glossy side to the lens. So I use glossy side to the lens as there’s no need to flip the image in LR. Here are enlarged comparator images:


Glossy and matte sides to the camera lens, respectively.

Here is the processed image:


Glossy side to the camera lens works fine.

Focus point: Once inserted in the film strip holder, the film is slightly bowed in a convex shape on the glossy side, the one which faces the camera lens. I do not use a glass film strip holder to try and remove this bowing, as holders which use plain glass can cause “Newton rings” interference on the image. These manifest themselves as rainbow like patterns. There are “anti-Newton ring” glasses available but they are lightly etched to prevent this phenomenon and reduce definition in the image as a result. Further, four glass surfaces mean four more areas on which dust can accumulate.

I use an aperture of f/9.5 on the Micro Nikkor AF-S lens which is the sweet spot where depth of field and definition meet. You do not want to use the lens at full or minimum aperture where definition suffers. Further, depth of field at full aperture is very slim, making critical manual focus that much harder. Given that the film surface is not plane, does it make sense to focus on an area half way out from the center of the image to optimize depth of field and related sharpness across the frame?

In the comparator images below, the first used spot focus in the center while the second focused midway between the center and the edge of the long side of the negative. I used the directional pad on the D800 to move the autofocus point, having earlier determined that auto focus is superior to manual focus. The latter uses the viewfinder LED indicator to show best focus and I have found that nailing that is so critical that deferring to auto focus is easier and more repeatable.


Center and half left spot focus points.

There is no discernible difference between the center and half-left spot focus point images with the grain sharp at all points. Conclusion – center spot focus is just fine at f/9.5.

How fast is the process, a key goal of this project? Read about that here.