Category Archives: Photography

Tethered shooting with Lightroom

Instant preview.

Tethered shooting refers to a connection – wired or wireless – between your camera and a display device, allowing near instant preview of images, typically in a studio environment, on a decently sized laptop or desktop display. ‘Chimping’ the small rear LCD on the camera pales by comparison.

In this way you can instantly assess composition, lighting, exposure and focus and, most importantly, if you have a client present, you can give him faster-than-Polaroid previews of the session’s photographs.

Before you start spending money on cables I suggest you check that your processing software on your computer supports the camera of your choice. Not all software supports all cameras and you can bet that older versions of software will not support many of the latest camera models. Of all manufacturers you can be assured that Adobe will have been first on the planned obsolescence wagon, forcing you to upgrade your software at considerable cost.

My gear is relatively dated – Lightroom 6.4, a Nikon D800 and a 2015 MacBook Air, the latter no speed demon by modern standards. I use a wired USB2 connection between camera and laptop. Wireless solutions are available for those with more money than sense. Mine involved diving into the cable box in the garage and finding the right cable, free.

Plug the cable into the laptop and camera, turn the latter on, and Lightroom requires these steps:




Enabling tethered capture in Lightroom.

Once both ends of the cable are plugged in the Nikon D800 no longer shows a frame count on the top LCD:


The frame count display in tethered capture mode.

If you do not see ‘PC’ in the frame count location unplug the cable from the computer and reconnect it. As a further check, a display panel will pop up in Lightroom and will show the model of the connected camera if the connection has been properly made.

‘PC’ indicates that the storage card in the camera is not being used to store images, which are being sent directly to the connected computer.

One word of caution. The camera socket for the connecting cable in the D800, if using a wired solution, uses a USB2/3 Micro USB design. This is unarguably the worst connector ever made, being unidirectional, fragile, small, and easily damaged. What’s worse the cable is subjected to tugging and stress in use, inviting disconnection as a minimum, damage at worst. So, instead of a costly solution what is needed is a simple twist tie, attached between the left strap lug or key ring and the cable, acting as a simple and free strain relief thus:


A tether for the tether. Highly recommended. The white paint mark has been added to indicate orientation when plugging the connector into the camera.

Acknowledging the awfulness of the Micro USB socket and connector, Nikon did make a strain relief clip but mine did not come with the secondhand body I bought. They crop up on eBay from time to time for very little; mine ran me $9.45:


The Nikon USB cable clip.

Here it is installed. Be aware that the MicroUSB connector comes in both USB2 (narrow) and USB3 (broader – two connectors in one) versions. The casing for the USB3 version on the cables in my box will not pass the opening in the Nikon USB Cable Clip (you could always try sanding it down if that is all you have), while the narrower USB2 version passes through just fine. There’s a locating peg and a couple of shark teeth to hold the whole thing in place on the camera and the cable itself is secured with a locking foldover bar. Indeed, as the image below shows there’s an unused adjacent peg hole which suggests there may be a wider USB3 version of this clip. I do not know. It works well:


The Nikon D800 USB Cable CLip installed on my camera.

I have found no difference in transfer speed for the USB2 vs. the USB3 cable, both allowing LR to render the image on the laptop’s display in 5 seconds after the shutter button is depressed. using my ancient 11″ MacBook Air and the 14-bit RAW file format. That’s a whole lot faster than a Polaroid! Edwin Land would be proud.

My strong inclination is to rip off that awful, intrusive rubber cover for the connector area, but I have not yet summoned the courage to do that.

I switch Lightroom to full screen display (hit ‘F’ on the keyboard) and the latest image is the one displayed in maximum size. Hit ‘G’ for the familiar LR grid display. The advantage of the full screen display is that it’s far easier to judge the image in full size.

And that’s about it. Once the session is completed the LR catalog can be exported to your desktop of choice for post-processing in the usual way. I simply network my desktop Mac Pro with the MacBook Air and transfer the catalog into the Lightroom software on the Mac Pro. You use Windows? You are on your own.

Thanksgiving 2023

Happy turkey day to all.

A lot has changed since I wrote of my first Thanksgiving in America. That was in 1977, the column ran in 2006. I recall, back in 1977, the special at the supermarket had turkey marked down to 29 cents a pound. Yesterday the price was:


At the supermarket yesterday.

Adjusted for inflation that 1977 turkey comes to $1.76/lb, so the price has just about halved since then. Further, buy $125 of groceries and the turkey is free! Is this a great country or what?

And driving home from the supermarket I chanced on a dozen of these big boys tucking in at the side of the road. Sadly the gun rack has yet to be installed in my luxury sedan but I did have the big Nikon and a suitable lens with me. Had the shotgun been available my turkey would have been well and truly free in 2023:


Wild turkeys. D800, 28-300mm Nikkor.

So what else has changed in those 46 years? Well, America is finally giving up on its endless and ever losing foreign wars. A fascist pig/rapist/criminal/seditionist is waiting in the wings to have another go at doing to the nation what he has been doing to women for decades. Our judicial system seems more corrupt than ever with a Supreme Court comprised largely of religious bigots. Womens’ rights, as a result, have seldom been under greater threat since they got the vote. America is turning inwards, as it does from time to time, yet I remain supremely confident that this too will pass and our course for the sunlit uplands will be firmly reestablished.

So, if you have not the time to read that 2003 piece, it’s worth quoting the words of Milton Friedman, the economist, from that screed. Friedman is another who has sadly fallen out of fashion in the past couple of decades:

“A society that puts equality – in the sense of equality of outcome – ahead of freedom will end up with neither equality or freedom. The use of force to achieve equality will destroy freedom. On the other hand, a society that puts freedom first will, as a happy by-product, end up with both greater freedom and greater equality. Freedom means diversity but also mobility. It preserves the opportunity for today’s less well off to become tomorrow’s rich, and in the process, enables almost everyone, from top to bottom, to enjoy a richer and fuller life.”

When it’s not busy behaving in a self destructive manner America largely remembers those words, and I have every confidence that it will continue to do so in the long term. Besides, where on earth is there anything better?

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Contax IIa

A Zeiss masterpiece.

The German Bauhaus architecture movement ran through the 1950s and had a singular focus on function over form. You can get a sense of it from the Bauhaus building in Dessau, though why architect Walter Gropius felt compelled to add the name of the movement to the building remains a mystery (and the ‘S’ is too small!):


The Bauhaus building in Dessau.

The windows are large, the design is largely one of right angles and the mass production aspect of the parts is self evident.

What has this to do with the Zeiss Ikon Contax IIa which was manufactured between 1950-60? Well, this supremely elegant camera first saw the light of day as the pre-war Contax II about which I wrote a decade ago. The Bauhaus influence on the design is writ large.

The Contax II was introduced in 1936 and bombed out of existence by the Allies in the second world war. The IIa was an improved model with aluminum replacing the fragile brass slats of the roller blind vertically traveling focal plane shutter. Further, the film counter was integrated into the advance knob rather than having a separate top plate window. The rangefinder base length was shortened slightly and the overall quality went up.

And when you pick up a IIa the overwhelming impression is one of mass – it’s heavy for its small size – and quality of construction and finish. Everything is tight, the engraving and knurling are to die for and it feels right in the hand. And the clean lines clearly show the Bauhaus influence on the original design, carried on after the war.


Modern gargantuanism dwarfs the petite Contax IIa


It may lack electronic gizmos, but the size is just so.


The detachable 50mm f/2 Sonnar is tiny. The focus helicoid is attached to the body, not the lens.


Note the subtle changes in font sizes.
The dual bayonet mounts accommodate short and long lenses.


Engraving and knurling quality to die for.


Near mint strap lugs testify that this is not a ‘beater’.

Why buy a 75 year old rangefinder camera with no automation, no digital sensor and using film? Because it is an object of engineering beauty and joins other of its ilk on display in the home theater. In addition to many classic movie posters, that room displays a Bolex H16 16mm film camera, an ancient Weston Master selenium cell meter, a period Bell & Howell 16mm film projector, a Goldberg 35mm film reel and an antique candlestick phone. The Contax, like all of those, is in perfect working order.


On display in the home theater.
Nothing less than a Leitz tabletop tripod and ball head would suffice.

Smoked beef brisket

A tough cut.

There’s a well known Gary Larson ‘Far Side’ cartoon titled ‘Boneless Chicken Ranch’, showing the chickens all flat and splayed out, like so:


Boneless Chicken Ranch.

How does a brisket work?

The comparison with a brisket cut of beef is apt. Cows have no collarbones so without the tough brisket meat between and either side of their forelegs they would splay out helpless, just like those chickens. And the design of that brisket meat is ingenious. The triangular, tapering piece has the muscle fibers running transversely (the meat cut is referred to as the ‘point’) whereas the rectangular part sees the fibers running vertically (the ‘flat’). There is one point/flat brisket pair on either side of the animal. The muscle orientation provides strength along both the horizontal and vertical axes. Buy a whole brisket and you get both the point and the flat and that’s important to know as will be discussed below. How you carve the meat differs for point and flat briskets.


Brisket location.

As with many hard, heavily muscled meats, ‘low and slow’ is the preferred cooking method to allow the muscle fibers to relax and make the result edible. And smoking brisket meat, as any grill aficionado will tell you, is the way to go.

The best smoker:

You can get chintzy smokers, made from very thin steel sheet, at your local hardware store for $150 and they will last you one season. Or you can pay a little more for a Weber Smokey Mountain grill, made from heavy steel plate with an enameled exterior and a decade long life expectancy.

The WSM comes in three diameters and I use the smallest, the 14.5″ model, which nicely accommodates a 5 lb point brisket. Why point? Because it’s the fattier cut which does not dry out so making for a juicier result.


The 14.5″ Weber Smokey Mountain smoker. Click the image for Amazon US

This compact R2D2 unit is rather short of stature so I stand it on a metal side table when in use. Do not stand it on anything combustible!

Brisket meat:

Here is the point cut brisket:


A 5lb. point cut brisket.

The rub:

For the rub I combine 10 grams (1/2 oz.) of kosher salt with 10 grams of freshly ground black pepper and rub the brisket all over with the mixture. No fancy herb additions needed. Remove the brisket from the fridge an hour before starting the smoke to let it warm up to room temperature.

Charcoal and how to light it:

The beauty of the WSM is that it includes a water bath below the two grilles which results in indirect heat for the meat. No flames can reach around the inverted bowler hat design so a fat fire is not likely. Here’s how the parts go together:


#10 is the water bath.

To fire up the smoker 75 Kingsford charcoal briquettes (more for larger models) are arranged in a pyramid in the perforated retaining ring (#6 in the parts diagram) below the grilles with four Weber starter cubes disposed among these. Light these and let them burn off for 30 minutes with the briquettes exposed to the outdoors, after which the charcoal will have a white ash coat, smoking furiously. Then add four chunks of dried wood – Apple for a sweeter finish, Hickory for a smokier one – place the WSM’s cylinder section (#11 in the parts diagram) atop with the water bath installed and full, insert one or both grilles (I use only the larger top one) and you are ready to place the brisket on top. Be a man and use proper fist sized wood chunks, not those poncy shavings which burn up far too quickly.

The starter cubes have combusted and the charcoal is beginning to show white ash. It will be ready for use in a few minutes:


Ready in 15 minutes. The base vent is fully open.

Do not use charcoal starters (dangerous, as the hot coals must be transferred from the starter to the smoker) or lighter fluid (you really want to destroy the ozone layer and have hydrocarbons in your meat?). Use four of those tiny starter cubes and all the hydrocarbons will be thoroughly burned off once the coals are ready for use.

Temperature readings:

Place the brisket fatty side up on the top grill, make sure both bottom and top vents are fully open and place the hemispherical top on the smoker. You are looking at two temperature readings. The thermometer in the hemispherical Weber top reads the internal dome temperature and you are aiming at 200-250F dome temperature – don’t over do it or your meat will dry out. If the temperature rises above 250F partially close the base vent – this controls the oxygen intake for combustion – until you are back in the range. Leave the top vent in the dome fully open at all times.


Dome temperature in the sweet spot.

While the Weber’s built-in dome thermometer reports the inside air temperature, the constant reading thermometer inserted in the meat reads ‘doneness’.

The constant reading thermometer:

Before doing so, insert a constant reading thermometer in the thick of the meat. Now you can spend endless dollars on a wi-fi/Bluetooth/NASA-approved device, confirming that a fool and his money are readily parted. Or you can use one of these bullet proof ones, no electronics to fail, no iPhone or mainframe needed to read the results and get the same outcome.

The difference is that you will not be replacing it annually while ‘customer service’ in Shanghai refuses to reply to your desperate warranty claims for your $100 Tempogizmomatic.


The constant reading thermometer inserted. Click the image for Amazon.

Accuracy? When I bought mine I placed it in a pan of boiling water and instead of 212F it read 190F. A second sample read 211F, close enough. As that’s close to the desired ‘doneness’ temperature this makes for very accurate measurement.

As it gets smokey in there, cover the face of the thermometer with a small piece of Reynoldswrap silver paper, removing the paper when a reading is required. Otherwise you will have a heck of a job seeing the indicator needle.

We want to get to 195-205F for the right degree of doneness. Brisket meat is served well done, not rare or medium-rare. How long does this take? As a general guide I grill/smoke for 1.25 hours per pound of meat, so our 5lb joint will take 6 hours, give or take. Don’t bother checking the internal thermometer until at least 4 hours have elapsed as a) that’s futile and b) each time you pop the dome you will lose heat and have to extend the cooking time. If you keep the dome temperature in the 200-250F range there is no need to spritz the meat with anything until it’s done.

Wood:

How about wood management? Those four manly man sized chunks of wood will be largely burned up in 2 hours, indicated by a lack of smoke emanating from the fully open vent in the dome of the WSM. If you like a smokier finish, add a couple more chunks through the front door in the cylinder section of the WSM at this time, and you will get another hour of smoke. No more is needed. The WSM gets hot so use a pair of these using some of that money you saved by not buying an idiotic electronic Bluetooth thermometer. You can use those same gloves to manhandle the brisket when removing it to the cutting board.

Maintaining the water bowl:

The water bowl inside the WSM, which ensures only indirect heat reaches the meat and helps prevent fat fires, is checked once during the six hour smoking session, after 4 hours. I generally find the water in mine to be two thirds evaporated at that point and simply top it up by pouring additional water into the bowl through the grille(s), being careful not to slop any on the hot coals below. No need to risk removing the brisket with its grille for this step.

Managing the 170F ‘stall’:

I checked the internal thermometer after 4 hours and it read 170F. One hour later, after 5 hours, it still read 170F. This is known as the ‘stall’ and results from the ongoing evaporation of moisture from the joint, which prevents the temperature from rising. You can either simply wait it out – your guests will love you – or wrap the joint in heavy duty Reynolds silver wrap at the 4-5 hour mark to stop evaporation of moisture and help push the joint over the stall point. I did this after 5 hours and the stall ceased, with the joint’s internal temperature reaching 195F after 6 hours and 15 minutes.

Once the meat is removed from the WSM be sure to close both the top and base vents. That will starve the system of oxygen, ensuring the coals are extinguished and that any remaining water in the water bowl does not boil off, leaving hard to remove deposits.

Resting and carving:

Phew! After 6 hours or so you will smell of wood and charcoal smoke and have a beautifully rendered brisket with a dark exterior ‘bark’ ready to be removed to the cutting board, having first checked that the interior thermometer is reporting 195-205F. We are not done yet.

Let the brisket rest at room temperature for 30-60 minutes – this will make it easier to cut. Check back to the second paragraph of this piece and you will see that the brisket has a grain direction, just like pure, untreated wood. When carving the brisket we want to cut across the grain, meaning the knife has to be at right angles to the muscle fibers. Cut incorrectly, meaning in line with those fibers, and you will get a very stringy piece of meat which is no fun to chew. So how to determine the cut direction?

Simple. Cut off a piece thus:


First cut – incorrect.

This cut is wrong. You can clearly see the run of the muscle fibers, denoted by the red line.

Here’s the second cut at right angles to the first – no fibers are visible as the cut is at right angles to the grain:


Second and final cut – no fibers visible.

The best carving knife:

What’s the best knife to use? No, it’s most definitely not your utterly useless chef’s knife, especially if you have discovered the massive benefits of a cleaver.

You need a serrated bread knife, like this, to ease the ‘sawing’ through those muscle fibers.

Enjoy!

Nothing beats an Idaho baked potato with butter, sour cream and chives from the garden.


Juicy and perfect..