Category Archives: Printing

Printing with an emphasis on the HP DesignJet dye printer

Rosetta is dying

Mac Mini M4, OS X, Printing

But your old Brother laser printer does not have to.

Extensive reports from beta testers of Apple’s latest desktop operating system – Mac OS 27, or Golden Gate – suggested that the software was robust and reliable, so I updated from Mac OS 26 (Tahoe) to OS 27 the other day …. and promptly lost the use of my USB wired Brother HL-2300D laser printer.

Reading the Apple Community discussion board disclosed that Apple was no longer including Rosetta with Mac OS 27, and that old but reliable Brother printer used Intel era code to do its thing. Meaning it needs access to Rosetta.

Rosetta – some background:

Two CPU generations ago Apple’s hardware was running on IBM G-series CPUs – the G1 through G5. Apple’s notebook, the Powerbook, was widely regarded as the best laptop on the market and was running the G3 CPU. Steve Jobs wanted to up performance by installing the latest G5 but the CPU ran so hot that it was unusable, unless you liked a scorched lap. I recall owning a G5 iMac desktop and, indeed, it put my kitchen toaster to shame when it came to heat output. The fans would race to maximum under the most modest tasks. Not Apple’s proudest moment.

Anyway, Steve concluded that the IBM CPUs were …. err, toast, and migrated the hardware to Intel CPUs. Cooler, faster, cheaper. To aid in the migration Apple developed a brilliant piece of software named Rosetta, after the Rosetta Stone, whose multi-language engravings acted as a Greek-to-Egyptian hieroglyph dictionary. Hieroglyphs could now be understood. Apple’s smartly named Rosetta performed a like task in translating IBM G generation applications to Intel code, meaning that all those old G apps would run seamlessly on Intel machines. The performance penalty was minor and Rosetta ran completely invisibly. A nod in the direction of that old Apple marketing slogan, “It Just Works”. Eventually developers rewrote all their application to run natively on Intel CPUs and the need for Rosetta disappeared, meaning you forever lost the use of old apps which were never rewritten, though those were few and far between.

History repeats:

When Apple started developing its own desktop and laptop CPUs, Apple Silicon, meaning the M1 through M6 range, they crafted a new version of Rosetta which did for the Intel-to-Apple Silicon change what the original Rosetta did for IBM-to-Intel. Old Intel applications would run perfectly well on M CPU hardware, performing the translation task invisibly in the background. The seamless implementation testifies to some serious programming chops in Cupertino. As before, with most applications now rewritten to run on Apple Silicon, the need for Rosetta went away, so much so that Apple warned that Rosetta would no longer be shipped with Mac OS 27. And as that old Brother printer needs Rosetta to work, it ceased doing so.

The fix is simple, as this extract of the Apple Community discussion discloses. Install Rosetta.



From the Apple Community discussion board

The Terminal app can be found in the Utilities folder, and the whole process takes under a minute. And, Bingo!, my old Brother HL-2300D is as good as new. That printer is hard wired to my Mac Mini M4 and is no longer supported by Brother, so the chance that Brother will update the driver for Mac OS 27/Apple Silicon is exactly zero. But there’s no need to throw it away. Further it works perfectly well with dirt cheap aftermarket toner cartridges and I expect to get many more years from mine. Will Mac OS 28 include Rosetta as a downloadable option? Unlikely, but I’m confident some smart programmer will come up with a new fix.

Running old Intel-era applications:

If you have old Intel apps you like and if these were never rewritten for Apple Silicon, installing Rosetta in Mac OS 27 should allow them to continue functioning.

Lightroom use:

The current desktop version of Lightroom is Lightroom Classic. It requires an Apple Silicon CPU to work and I print using a wirelessly connected Epson ET8550 color ink jet printer. There are no issues using LRc with the ET8550 running Mac OS 27.

Hanging huge prints

Printing

Not a lot of fun.

Having mounted and framed the three 24″ x 36″ prints for my living room it came time to hang them. The post production time for printing, mounting, framing and hanging is a multiple of the time required to take and process the images, but there are no short cuts. Scrupulous cleanliness is dictated as even the smallest particle of grit will destroy the mounted print’s surface and white cotton gloves for handling everything are mandatory, if greasy fingerprints are to be avoided. In other words, the whole process is a royal pain.

First my son and I debated in which order the prints should be hung. After trying all the variations we decided on this:



Common Ninebark, Common Blanketflower and Flax wildflowers.

The print location is above three sets of louvered window shutters and we used a self-leveling laser level which projects a pair of 90 degree laser light lines on the wall, making alignment with the center of each pair of shutters a simple matter:



Laser level on the Linhof tripod.
A very tall ladder is involved.

As this location has a 19′ ceiling and we wanted the prints approximately half way up a very tall ladder was called for. Not much fun, I confess.

Here is the result after much struggling with this monster ladder, not to mention moving furniture around to accommodate it.



Common Ninebark, Common Blanketflower and Flax wildflowers.

A lot of work, with much fun finding the wildflowers in my community and photographing them, followed by hours of mirthless, hard labor to complete the project.

This will convey a sense of the enlargement ratio. I am holding the original of the Common Blanketflower in my right hand:



Holding the original and the print.

Making huge prints revisited

Printing

It’s a little easier now.

Over a decade ago I wrote about making a 36″ x 48″ print for wall display. You can read about that here. Now that was a bit of a cheat, really, as I had to assemble the final result from four tiled 18″ x 24″ prints, the largest my HP DJ90 could output. Still the result worked pretty well.

Today the largest my Epson ET8550 printer can manage is 13″ x 19″, and while that’s fine for most purposes, not to mention easy to mount, mat and frame, I recently got a hankering for something larger, and luckily have wall space to accommodate it.

The Postal Annex nearby recently installed two very large printers, a 44″ Canon and a 64″ Hewlett Packard, selling their services to those requiring large banners and posters. The HP, according to the proprietor, can print on vinyl paper for waterproof outdoor displays, but is limited to eight inks, whereas the Canon boasts no fewer than a dozen. Given that making very large prints is a once-a-decade exercise for me ownership of either of these monsters makes no sense (the HP costs a stunning $38,000), so when it came time to make three 24″ x 36″ prints I duly delegated the task and emailed the TIF files – each some 60mb in size – to Postal Annex. Four hours later saw the job completed and I was on my merry way home to attend to mounting and framing tasks, poorer for the modest sum of 3 x $45. Not at all bad, and the print quality, on Canon’s satin photographic paper, is everything one could wish for. Too bad they do not offer a glossy option.

Until mounted these prints are very fragile so the quicker this task is completed the better. I use 24.5″ wide mounting tissue and my Seal Jumbo 160M heated dry mounting press requires six ‘bites’ (90 seconds each @ 170F) to do the task after first tacking the print, tissue, and mount together using a heated tacking iron. The prices for a new press and iron are ridiculous, and given that’s there’s little to go wrong I recommend a search on eBay where the press can be found for $500 and the iron for under $50. Much of the cost of the press is for shipping as this whopper weighs a stout 60lbs. Repair parts for the press, should anything fail, are available. The press is now marketed under the D&K name, though it’s otherwise unchanged,



Six passes needed for a 24″ x 36″ print.
Release paper protects the print’s surface.

I opted for plain wooden frames with plexiglass – cheaper than glass and, more importantly, much lighter. Given that hanging the framed prints involves my least favorite pursuit – ladder time – light weight is an issue. The unstained pale wood contrasts nicely with the black backgrounds in my wildflower images. The plexiglass has a protective clear film on both sides and it does well to remember to remove this as it robs definition. Here’s the first of the three framed prints ready for hanging:



Ready for hanging.

After removing the pressed wood backing board I retain the print in the frame using a framing points driver tool. Owing to the thickness of the mounting board the backing board can no longer be installed, so a couple of hanging hooks is attached to the frame for the hanging wire.



Framing points replace the backing board, which no longer fits.
The hooks and wire came in this kit.

The all in cost of each framed print including printing and all framing materials is a reasonable $102, each.

Now it’s ladder time. Ugh!

Itoya large print albums – update

Printing, Technique

Two choices.

I continue building a collection of large print legacy albums containing some five decades of my best photographs.


A photographic legacy

I first wrote about these here and the other day when ordering more from B&H, which has the best prices, I found that the profiled album was out of stock. Digging around the splendid B&H site I discovered that there are actually two versions of the 13″x19″ Itoya large print album, at much the same price:


Two versions. Click the image for B&H.

The other version, at left, touts the high gloss ‘Poly Glass’ vinyl sheets but, for the life of me, they look identical to those in the version previously profiled. So I snapped up a couple and can confirm they are every bit as good as the original. Each of the 24 vinyl sheets comes with a black interleaver to prevent image bleed through to adjacent prints.

Monitor calibration

Epson ET8550, Printing

Apple’s Monitor Display Calibrator.

For an index of all articles about the Epson ET8550 printer, click here.

There are two major aspects of calibrating the color rendering of your system if you want to make prints that match what you see on the display. And while no print – a reflective medium – can hope to match the dynamic range of a transmission technology like an LED screen, you still want to get as close as possible.

The first is to use the right icc paper profile for your printer and paper, something I describe here. And you must not let the printer manage color. The only way to invoke and use that paper/printer profile is to set up your computer to manage color. Leave the printer color management turned off.

The second aspect is monitor calibration. While in OS 10.15 Sequoia it’s hidden away, Apple’s Monitor Display Calibrator is still around and has been for ages. It’s a cheap (free) alternative to calibration hardware which will set you back a minimum of $170. While my Benq monitor comes very well calibrated out of the box, the Apple tool can make things even better. As for my X-Rite Eye-One Display 2 colorimeter it is toast as the makers have refused to update it to work with Apple Silicon CPUs. A business with the integrity of Adobe.

The problem is that Apple seems not to want anyone using the Monitor Display Calibrator as it’s well and truly hidden. Here’s how to find and use it.

Go to ‘System Settings (Apple symbol)->Displays’:


System Settings->Displays

Click on ‘Color Profile->Customize’:


System Settings->Displays->Color Profile

See that little ‘+’ symbol at the lower left, below? Hold down the Option key on your keyboard and click it. This will get you into the Monitor Display Calibrator which looks like this – be sure to click on ‘Expert Mode’ in the right hand window:


System Settings->Displays->Color Profile-Customize

The application will walk you through a five step process to adjust your monitor. Be sure to do this in an ambient light setting as similar as possible to that in which you will display your prints, as ambient light color (‘temperature’ if you speak Geek) affects color rendering in a print. Save the result and then go back into ‘System Settings->Displays’ and make sure your new monitor profile is the one you have selected – see the first image above.

You are done.


A nice print to display match.