Guy Bourdin

Book review

You know how you remember the first of anything? The first book you read, the first music you heard, the first glass of wine, and so on? Yes, that too.

Well, the first fashion photography I remember was by the French master Guy Bourdin. Sometime in the early 1970s when I had a subscription to British Vogue.

He is not a mainstream name in fashion the way that Beaton, or Hoyningen-Huene or Horst or Bailey or Klein or Testino are. (Click here to see all my Book Reviews). Yet his imagery is so startling, the compositions so perfect, the point of view so different, that he can probably lay claim to having influenced more photographers clandestinely than anyone. His images simply change the way you see and think. Everywhere the influence of Man Ray, with whom he apprenticed, is to be felt.

The picture I have scanned from the book, above, is just one example. I had never seen it before and found myself spontaneously expostulating “Goodness gracious!” when I first saw it.

For fifteen years Bourdin had the most extraordinary relationship with the haute couture fashion house of Charles Jourdan. He took the snaps. They published them without question. No crops. No rejects. What they got they ran. They made shoes. Bourdin, you might argue, is a photographer of shoes. And the Ferrari is just a car. And Sophia Loren is just a woman. And the Leica is just a camera.

Do yourself a huge favor. Buy this book.

David Seymour

Book review

No finer example of Chim Seymour’s photography can be found than this wonderful picture from the set of Funny Face, with a very young Richard Avedon showing Fred Astaire the ropes.

One of the founders of Magnum, the apochryphal story has it that Chim and HC-B met on a tram in Paris, with HC-B asking innocently about the Leica around Chim’s neck. The rest is history.

Oh! yes, Astaire could dance and sing a bit, too!

Chim died aged 45, shot during the Suez crisis. The monograph is available from Amazon.

About the Snap: Lovers

Lovers


Date: 2004
Place: Avila Beach, CA
Modus operandi: Practising invisibility
Weather: Overcast and cold
Time: 2 pm
Gear: Cosina Bessa T, Leica 21mm Asph Elmarit
Medium: Kodak Gold 100
Me: Waiting for the moment
My age: 52

No two ways about it. Get in close and you become invisible. The sort of thing ultra-wide lenses were made for, and it didn’t hurt to have the greatest 21mm lens ever made for a 35mm camera on board. I kept the lens and its atrocious viewfinder on the Bessa at all times – thus avoiding having to mess about with meter removal on the M2. Come to think of it, after a while you could dispense with the viewfinder, having learned to think wide.

The pier this young couple had chosen for a quick snoggle was deserted, as well it should be on this frigid day. The snap actually took a couple of minutes. No matter. Their passion and my secret invisible sauce made things easy.

All I was waiting for was that raised leg….

Keld and I

Memory is a strange thing

I wrote about the photography of the Dane Keld Helmer-Petersen here. His work deeply affected my sense of color and line when I was a boy and I had occasion to reflect on this when processing a batch of snaps from Laguna Seca racetrack, where I spent a pleasant day this week.

This was not one of those big events with high entry costs and unwashed, polyester-clad crowds emblazoned with Ferrari logos. Rather, this weekday event was purely amateur (though some of the budgets are far from amateur) and afforded the chance of getting close to drivers and cars, the latter mostly from the ’60s and ’70s. Back from the days when men were men and knew how to die in a race car.

Anyway, after sifting through my snaps, I came across one I rather liked:


Shell.

Now where had I seen this before? Ah, yes, KH-P did it some sixty years ago:


Texaco

Memory is a strange thing ….

Canon 20mm – some further thoughts

Not perfect – you get what you pay for, I suppose.

I wrote in somewhat lukewarm terms of the underwhelming definition of the Canon 20mm lens here.

I took a more objective view of the vignetting issue by banging out four snaps on the old estate, camera and lens dutifully mounted on a tripod, at the four largest apertures:

To best assess vignetting, look at the bottom right corner. The sky is misleading as the changing azimuth angle will provide some natural vignetting with any lens this wide. You can see that at full aperture, f/2.8, the vigneting is pretty awful, but rapidly falls by f/4 with full coverage at f/5.6 and below.

So unless you want to use the Photoshop CS2 Filter->Distort->LensCorrection->Vignette->Amount, (does anyone at Adobe have the remotest iota of common sense when it comes to designing menus – who would guess it’s under ‘Distort’?) f/2.8 is simply not useable. Realistically, if it’s a low light situation, vignetting is no big deal and tends to enhance the drama of a picture. But if you want full coverage to the corners, forget it. Regard the maximum aperture as useful for focusing only.

How about definition? Well, I concluded that my first sample was just not good enough, especially after nothing but great experiences with the 15mm fisheye, the 85mm f/1.8, the 200mm f/2.8 and the 24-105mm zoom. If I can get way better definition from the fisheye after doing all that pixel stretching with ImageAlign (making the lens like a 12mm rectilinear hyper-wide) then all cannot be right with my 20mm sample which clearly has poorer definition than the fisheye. So I bit the bullet and returned the lens to B&H. Moses, of that estimable store, didn’t understand when I explained the lens sucked, but when I pulled Schlecht on him he cottoned on and was very good about it. I had a replacement (with an older serial number, strangely) in my hands in seven business days. Thank you, B&H. Was the result a quantum leap in definition? No. However, overall the ‘bite’ of the image is improved, if still not up to any of the other lenses which, frankly, easily surpass it in this regard. Vignetting in both samples at full aperture is just awful.

The right answer, I suppose, is to get a used Leica 21mm Super Angulon R and adapt it to the 5D. That lens may only be f/4 but it’s fabulous, like all Leica glass. I used one on my Leicaflex SL for years. Unfortunately, the sheer bulk of the lens, compounded by a heavy brass mount and a huge front element, not to mention a complete lack of focus or aperture and exposure automation on the 5D, rules it out. The M Elmarit will not, of course, achieve infinity focus owing to the need for a short flange-to-sensor distance mandated by the rangefinder design. Plus, it’s way overpriced.

So mediocre definition would seem to be the Achilles Heel of this optic – that or I have been an unlucky victim of poor quality control. Canon has little incentive for improving the lens, with everyone being sold on bulky, slow zooms. Shame. Still, at f/8 it’s decent and it’s dirt cheap, too, at $400. If it was much more I would return it.

You can get an idea of the relative size of the 20mm in this picture where it is side by side with the 50mm f/1.4 – it’s not too bulky.

Notice that the 72mm Canon UV filter on the 20mm lens says ‘Sharp Cut’, implying a sharp cut off prior to the infra red range of the spectrum. By contrast the 58mm filter on the 50mm lens bears no such designation. This is rather mystifying (the 77mm filter for the 24-105mm is also ‘Sharp Cut’) as the sensor in the 5D (and probably in their other DSLR offferings) has a built in IR filter – something Leica should have learned before mistakenly releasing the M8 with no IR sensor filter, only to have to issue free lens filters to all buyers as IR rays wreaked havoc with color accuracy. No biggie – Canon’s filters are inexpensive and do the job of protecting my lens’ front elements.

Update: I ended up selling the lens – too much bulk for too little performance. Read all about it here.