Monthly Archives: August 2026

Slicing, cutting and grating in the kitchen

The good, the bad and the ugly.

There are few meals whose preparation excludes cutting, slicing or grating.

Surveying the relevant tools in my kitchen there are some which are exceptional for these tasks, some which are mediocre and others which are downright dangerous. Here they are in no particular order.

Box grater:



Box grater.

Ergonomics: Awful. You have to bear down with one hand and exercise a death grip on the workpiece, which promptly leaves most of the sliced/grated results stuck to the inside of the box.

Danger: High. If it does not tip on you watch out for shredded knuckles.

Clean-up: Awful. You have to work a sponge on a wand inside to do a proper job, which still leaves food stuck in the inside corners.

Status: Recycled.

Cheese slicer:



Cheese slicer.

Ergonomics: Decent. Works well on both hard and soft cheeses. The rubber feet prevent slipping and the design is robust with the wire correctly centered. Comes with two spare wires. Does not get blunt with age.

Danger: Low. Just don’t place a finger where you are cutting.

Clean-up: Easy.

Status: In daily use.

Chef’s knife:



Chef’s knife.

Ergonomics: Poor. The most overrated kitchen tool, the one ‘expert’ cooks say is the most important. It’s poor at scooping. The balance is mediocre at best. More here. I have not used mine in over half a decade.

Danger: High. Your hands are too close to the cutting edge.

Clean-up: Easy.

Status: Unused. Have not the heart to throw it out as it’s a nice non-stainless Sabattier.

Cleaver:



Cleaver.

Ergonomics: Outstanding, if you get one that balances well in the hand. It pays to shop in person, not by mail order. Superior in every way to the chef’s knife. Superb at scooping. The weight and long handle confer tremendous cutting power, but don’t use it on hard beef bones as the metal is relatively soft. This tool allows you to safely cut up an onion in a few seconds.

Clean-up: Trivial.

Safety: Good. Your fingers are remote from the cutting edge.

Status: Used daily.

Food processor:



Food processor.

Ergonomics: Very good. Lots of safety interlocks and large capacity. Very powerful motor and the tool for puréeing. Takes up significant countertop space. Different disks allow for varied slice thicknesses. Not cheap.

Clean-up: So-so. Lots of parts.

Safety: Very high. It’s impossible to get your fingers close to the whirling blades.

Status: Used for big batch jobs like soups.

Hand graters:



Hand graters.

Ergonomics: Marginally better than the box grater, above, but requires significant hand strength to use, easily fatiguing the operator.

Clean-up: Hard.

Safety: Poor. Use a protective, metallized glove.

Status: Recycled.

Mandoline:



Mandoline.

Ergonomics: So-so. You place it over a bowl hoping it does not slip-off. And of course it does.

Clean-up: So-so. Lots of crevices to trap food.

Safety: Arguably the most dangerous kitchen tool. It’s easy to slice off a fingertip. A metallized glove is essential with this killer and, yes, it will get disgustingly dirty with every use. Easily adjustable slice thickness.

Status: Recycled.

Parmesan grater:



Parmesan grater.

Ergonomics: Could scarcely be worse. The hopper is too small. The handle is too short requiring high effort from the operator using both hands – the one depressing the cantilever, the other struggling with the handle. And that handle is very hard to remove for cleaning. The grey rubber handle cover falls off with use, compromising grip when it is inevitably lost. Restaurants love to use these, but check your waiter’s biceps.

Clean-up: Simply awful. Lots of interstices inside to trap food after you have struggled to dismantle this horror story.

Safety: High, if this is your idea of a work-out.

Status: Recycled.

Rotary grater/slicer:



Rotary grater/slicer.

Ergonomics: Excellent. Easy to assemble and disassemble. Very long handle makes use effortless. Suction base requires a smooth surface like a granite countertop to adhere properly. Wood cutting boards do not work. Slicing blade is one thickness only. When shredding soft cheeses, pre-cut and freeze for 30 minutes ahead, for a better cut. You can shred or grate a pound of cheese in under one minute with minimal physical effort. Comes with three blades – slicing, shredding and grating.

Clean-up: Easy.

Safety: Excellent. As the workpiece shortens use the provided pusher to machine the last inch or two of the workpiece.

Status: Used daily.

Poultry shears:



Poultry shears.

Ergonomics: There are many on the market. Just make sure that yours has the loop in the lower handle. Your hands will be greasy when cutting up a chicken and this loop ensures the tool will not escape your grasp. Don’t chintz with a lightweight design – this is a tool Henry VIII’s Chief Torturer would relish.

Safety: High, if there’s a loop in the lower handle.

Clean-up: Easy

Status: Used whenever I cut up a whole chicken into eight serving pieces plus the backbone for stock.

A note on cleaning-up:

Many kitchen tools have hard to access nooks and crannies. I recommend replacing your faucet’s spray head with one of these. It replaces the poncy stock sprayer on your tap with a head which not only includes an equally poncy stream/spray toggle, but also has a button for a turbo spray so powerful that you will experience Newton’s Third Law of Motion when you depress it. And your tool will be cleaned fast. A wonderful investment for an efficient and clean kitchen. It comes with a raft of adapters for common taps and several choices of finish.

Sharpening knives:

Forget abrasive stones. Your chances of getting the right angle on the blade are zero unless you want to invest in additional gadgetry which will only make sure that you will not use it as often as you should.

Further, I have found that manual, unpowered ‘pull through’ sharpeners are worthless, doing a very poor job.

For the past 18 years I have had nothing but success with the powered Chef’s Choice 130 sharpening station. The motor runs as well as it did when I purchased the tool new, and it’s used weekly. The device sets a perfect 20 degree angle on your blade(s) and has two powered abrasive wheels, coarse and fine. The center location holds a hard steel serrated strop which puts a tremendous toothed edge on any blade. Cutting tomatoes with a knife thus sharpened is a sublime pleasure.



Chef’s choice 130 sharpening station.

Sadly this model has been discontinued, replaced by one with three powered wheels …. but no strop. However, the 130 model is abundantly listed, used, on eBay for as little at $30, a fraction of the price of the latest new machine. Not a big risk – if you have to buy three to get a good one you are still far ahead economically.

A wireless remote for the Leica SL2-S

Inexpensive and versatile.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.

Wireless remotes are useful tools whether it’s for bird photography or shake-free images in the studio when the camera is on a tripod.

With my Nikon D800 sold I was using a $12 wired remote with the Leica SL2-S in the studio for macro photography, along with the required $7 2.5mm female to 3.5mm male adapter to fit that remote to either of the two coaxial sockets under the rubber cover on the left side of the body. But I had a hankering for a wireless remote but none is listed specifically for the Leica SL series.

It struck me that the Oppilas Pixel wireless remote I used with the Nikon D700 and D800 might be easily adapted for use with the SL2-S, needing just a 2.5mm to 2.5mm coaxial cable (this replaces the one with the 2.5mm to Nikon multi-connector plug cable) along with the above mentioned 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter. And, sure enough, it works perfectly.

If you do not already have one of those remotes, buy the one for the Panasonic S1 – $35 – which has a 2.5mm female socket on the body and add the 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter. Add four AAA batteries, two for the trigger and two for the receiver. This is how it looks on the camera:



On the Leica SL2-S.

The device uses radio frequency waves to communicate between the trigger and the on camera receiver so line-of-sight is not required. The receiver attaches to the hot shoe of the Leica and has a locking device. In practice, in the studio I have a wireless strobe trigger connected to the hot shoe so I simply attach the receiver to the camera’s neck strap with a wire tie. The receiver is not a hot shoe device, making its sole connection with the camera through the coaxial cable.

The manufacturer claims a range of 262 feet (!). My home test with one wall between the camera and the remote showed it works fine at 60 feet after which I ran out of corridor! And I’m not sure that in the field I want to be any further away from so costly a camera.

Will this work with other models in the SL range (SL601, SL2, SL3, SL3-S, SL3-P)? I do not know as I prefer to remain solvent, having just the one SL2-S body, but as all the SL bodies appear to be fitted with 3.5mm female sockets I would guess there should be no problem.

The trigger has four positions – Single shot, Continuous, Bulb and Self timer. If you keep the button depressed in Single shot mode the camera will take an image every second. For Continuous set the drive mode on the SL2-S to Continuous and the selector on the remote likewise. As long as the remote’s button is depressed the camera will bang away at the frequency you elected. For Bulb exposures set the SL2-S to Manual exposure, the exposure time to ‘B’ and the remote to Bulb. A first press on the remote’s button opens the shutter, a second press closes it. For delayed action set the remote’s selector to the clock face and you will get a 6 second delay after pressing the button before the camera’s shutter is released – this works in either Manual or Auto exposure modes. Handy.

Bottom line? This inexpensive wireless remote ($35 + $7 for the coaxial adapter), which I have been using for over a decade, adapts well to the Leica SL2-S with no operational issues. Just be careful not to knock that protruding adapter when it is inserted in the camera’s socket. Have you checked Leica’s repair costs and turnarounds recently?

Leica SL2-S firmware update 6.3.0

Plain sailing – with one precaution.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.



Firmware 6.3.0 installed.

Leica is to be commended for its continuing support of the discontinued Leica SL2-S body.

They just issued firmware update 6.3.0 which does the following:



Changes in firmware 6.3.0.

While I have not had the DNG file issue when using Adobe Denoise, it’s nice to see that Leica is on top of this.

The PDF file listing the above is erroneously captioned ‘6.2.0’, but no matter, and there are no English installation instructions, but the process is easy.

I just updated and had no issues. It took 4 minutes during which time the rear red LED flashed. After copying the firmware file to the SDHC card and starting the update I was prompted to insert a fresh, fully charged battery. I suggest before you run the update (Menu Page 6->Camera Information->Camera Firmware Version->Start Update) you save your user profile to the SDHC card. The firmware update will ask if you want to do this, as long as you are doing this using the camera, not an iPhone.

It’s a laborious task to set up user profiles and the camera will be reset to the factory defaults after the firmware update.

Precaution:

Do not update the firmware using your iPhone, which is an option. That update path will not allow you to save your user settings file – there is no prompt to do so. If you must use the iPhone be sure to save the user settings file to the SDHC card first. (Menu Page 4->User Profile->Manage Profiles->Export Profiles->Yes).

To recover/reinstall the profile(s) go to Menu Page 4->User Profile->Manage Profiles->Import Profiles->Yes.

Worked for me and all my preferred settings are once more active.