Category Archives: Photography

Garage kaizen

Ramblings

The second most important space in the home.

For a closer look at the many art works on display click here.

I wrote about kaizen in the context of the most important room in the home – the home theater – a while back.

It’s common for members of the Toyota C-suite to spend formative years in the kaizen function where failed parts are analyzed and improvements conjured up. This inculcates the belief that nothing surpasses reliability in importance when it comes to daily conveyances and explains why Toyota makes the best cars in the world. Contrast this with GM. One example of many is their Northstar V8 engine. It took Detroit 6 years to determine the cause of the serial head gasket failures and leaks before they realized that the studs were pulling out of the block. A mere few millimeters of additional thread did the trick by which time the motor’s reputation was irreversibly damaged. Considering American occupational psycholigist W. Edwards Deming had taught the Japanese how to make reliable cars you would think GM would know better. But no. Hang reputation, aim for short run profits, the American Way.

And talk of cars brings us to the second most important space in the home, the garage. My goal is to make this a warm and welcoming place, with shadowless task lighting the first consideration. Art works on the walls enhance the sense of occasion when entering this working space, but it’s the placement and display of tools and parts which is the key to making this a proactive and efficient workplace. And there are rules guiding this goal.

First a tool hidden in the drawer of one of those awful rolling carts is a lost tool. The cart will sooner or later crash into one of your machines and you will spend endless hours searching for that one special tool buried in its innards. No, tools must be displayed in logical groupings which means pegboards on the wall. And not those awful, depressing brown ones. Yecch! They must be white to contrast the tool with its background and to reflect ambient light into the workspace. For safety – the weight of tools adds up quickly – wooden battens are fastened to the studs behind the drywall and the pegboards are fastened to these battens, using drywall screws with finishing washers to spread the load. This makes for both a robust attachment method while providing clearance for the pegboard hooks as they poke through to the rear.

Further, tools must not be stacked for the same reason that they must not be hidden in drawers. Anything below the top of the stack will be lost or forgotten, sooner or later. Here’s my tool wall and yes, kaizen is easily eroded as the images show, for I have started stacking tools over the years, denying my own rules. In addition to the growing stacking issue with the pegboards, the area with fasteners is an absolute disaster, and the shelving needs work too.



The tool wall



The tool wall – a closer view.
Classic BMW and Ford posters at left.

Note the magnificent red Handy motorcycle air lift, the finest tool in the garage, at lower left. It’s one of the few things, along with the attendant compressor, I will allow to take up floor space. As a general rule the fewer things on the floor the better:



1975 BMW R90/6, 2007 Honda Silverwing and 2013 Honda PCX 150.
The artwork is from the Laguna Seca Historics

This fastener assembly is a disaster. To remove any one bin all above must be removed, the bins spill fasteners faster than a politician accepts a bribe and those lost nails on the floor lead to flat tires. Hard to imagine anything worse. Well, there’s always the Titanic:



Disaster area – fasteners. Inaccessible and
waiting to fall out.

Mercifully Amazon lists an alternative for very little money with several configurations.

This took a bit of time with the need to properly sort mis-filed pieces, but boy is it worth it:



Neatly labeled in alphabetical order

Amazon lists very robust 5 shelf units and I had installed four of these a few years ago when they cost $100. The price has now dropped to $55 and they are recommended. Easy to assemble, robust with a 350 pound capacity per shelf, I fastened them with metal straps to the batten you can see in the image, the latter attached to the studs behind the drywall. This both protects against earthquakes and takes out the tippiness of the heavy structure waiting to fall on a car or motorcycle:



Shelving from Amazon – lots of wasted space, too much stacking

Like the stacking which bedeviled the pegboards the shelves have suffered similar migration over the years and there is much wasted space. More shelves are called for:



Four shelving bays, 5 shelves apiece

So I procured an additional five shelf unit, discarded the uprights and installed the five additional shelves where the gaping spaces were. The metal semicircular straps securing the uprights to the batten have been removed in this illustration:



Adding shelves.

While that’s just a 25% increase in shelf area the difference is night and day. A related rule in any garage is to have as few items on the floor as possible and these added shelves really help:



Five added shelves in place

So after a few days of banging away at this kaizen project the garage is once more that special place which invites quality wrenching …. until the next time things need remediation. Constant improvement is the ticket.

Keks M-meter for Leica M – in use

Cameras, Film, Leica

Finally here!

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.

I ordered the Keks meter for Leica-M the day I profiled it here on March 8. It finally arrived today from Hong Kong, 18 weeks later.

Why buy this? To my knowledge this is the first meter since the Leicameter – discontinued in its various guises decades ago – which offers coupling with the shutter speed dial of the Leica M for speedy shutter priority readings. Users of older Leica M film bodies have been waiting for this every bit as long and, as what follows discloses, I doubt they will be disappointed.

Nicely packed, the first impression of build quality is better than that of the Leicameter M/MC/MR/MR-4 from Metrawatt, meaning up to the standard of the contemporary Leica M2 or M3. The coarse and incorrect satin chrome of the various Metrawatt meters is replaced with a beautiful smooth finish in the Keks meter, done as it should be, and very close to that of the Leica M. Just a tad grainier. And the color match with the camera’s satin chrome is well nigh perfect. That’s close to as good as it gets. Well done, Keks.

Weight: The meter weighs 1.6ozs.

Charge as received: As received the state of charge was 40%, and rose to 90% just 15 minutes after plugging it in using a USB-C to USB-A cable. 90% to 100% took an additional 15 minutes. Not at all bad. (Keks claims 60 minutes for a full charge from flat). As the image below shows, the meter ships with a short USB-C to USB-C cable. I prefer to use a USB-A wall mounted power socket with a USB-A to USB-C cable, which is nice and fast, but the meter should charge nicely from a modern laptop or desktop computer equipped with USB-C, if maybe not as quickly.



Boxed.



Unboxed.



Connected to USB power. Just 20 minutes
from 40% to 90% charged. The state of charge
is displayed when the rear button is depressed.

Setting variables: A host of variables can be tailored. You can see how to do this by downloading the manual here. Here is how the meter is shipped, with parentheses showing my preferred setting:

  • Exposure compensation: 0 stops (Same)
  • Apertures: 1/3 stops* (1/2 stop)
  • ISO stops: 1/3 stops* (1 stop)
  • Display brightness: 50% (Auto)
  • Display on time: 15 seconds (Same)
  • Max aperture: f/1.0 (f/1.4 for my 50mm Canon LTM lens)
  • Min aperture: f/128 – rather silly really (f/22)

    * Using 1/3 stop settings with a film camera is confusing precision with accuracy.

    The last setting allows the user to dial in the 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25 etc. steps for early Leica M3 bodies. Wonderful that the manufacturer thought of this. (Check my Comment, below, how to do this). As I said in my initial review, Keks is going to sell a lot of these meters and I see they are already on backorder at B&H.

    The claimed replaceable battery: At this time I have yet to summon up the courage to remove the baseplate to discover what sort of (purportedly replaceable) battery is used. The specifications state only that it is a 220mAh cell. Suffice it to say that the base is retained with four Allen head bolts and these fit a 1.5mm (tiny!) Allen wrench. Update: See the conclusion of this piece, below.

    Coupling with the camera’s shutter speed dial: The shutter speed coupling dial turns to ‘B’ smoothly whereupon it is lifted and turned further CCW to a stop. The meter can now be slid into the camera’s top plate mounting shoe, with the camera’s shutter speed dial first set to B. The process is identical to that with the earlier Metrawatt meters. The knurled ring on the meter is then turned CW until the pin drops into the corresponding slot on the shutter speed dial of the Leica. The meter is now coupled to the shutter speed dial and offers far superior ergonomics for shutter speed setting owing to the larger diameter of the meter’s knurled knob. The Keks meter engaged perfectly on my 1959 single-stroke Leica M3.

    Use with long shutter speeds: The Keks meter can display shutter speeds as long as 30 seconds. To access these you set the shutter to ‘B’, lift the knurled knob and keep turning counter-clockwise. Coupling is lost but the shutter speed dial is set at ‘B’ where you want it, and you can count the indicated seconds long exposure when making the exposure using a cable release. This function is identical to that in the various Leicameters.

    Acceptance angle: Using a point light source and a protractor I measured the horizontal angle of acceptance of the meter at 36 degrees (Keks claims 30 degrees), which is close to the 27 degrees (=90mm lens) claimed by Metrawatt for the Leicameter MR/MR-4, meaning that with the 90mm frame line invoked on the camera semi-spot readings of the area indicated by that frame line are possible with the Keks meter. Now I’m getting the sense that some real Leica M enthusiasts were involved in the design of this meter.

    Design errors: Five boo-boos, and none is a big deal.

    First, the meter displays Exposure Values (EVs) below the ISO setting, as shown below. Who on earth uses these with a Leica M, which is not equipped to display them?

    Second, why show EVs (to two decimal places!) when no decimal places are used in practice with EV equipped cameras like certain Rolleis, Retinas and Hasselblads? It would be nice if the EV display could simply be hidden as it adds useless clutter. Perhaps a piece of black insulating tape is called for?

    Third, it would be nice if the aperture was indicated as f/4 etc. not 4.0F.

    Fourth, the display sometimes indicates 1/50th (the flash setting) when it should display 1/60th, especially when moving from a slower to a faster shutter speed. This error is accounted for by sample-to-sample variations in the Leica shutter speed dial’s detents and is not Keks’s fault. Keks is to be applauded on delivering a fix – see “Shutter speed calibration”, below.

    Fifth, on one or two occasions I got wildly inaccurate readings on a first press of the rear button (the readings come on instantaneously), cured by a second button press. The errors are so egregious that you are not about to be fooled. Just press the button again.



    The EV display is below the ISO. ISOs can be changed with the two top plate buttons.

    Continuous exposure readings: A double press of the rear button is required to enable continuous readings – a ‘C’ will appear on the display to the right of the battery charge indicator. A single press will lock the reading, exiting continuous reading mode. Beautifully implemented.

    Shutter speed calibration: The shutter speed dial click stops are equally spaced on the Leica except for those between 1/30th and 1/50th and between 1/50th and 1/60th. 1/50th is the electronic flash synchronization setting and the click stops between the adjacent speeds of 1/30th and 1/60th are half the spacing of all the others. As shipped my Keks meter could not distinguish between shutter speed dial settings of 1/50th and 1/60th, showing 1/50th for both settings as the shutter speed dial was rotated toward shorter shutter speeds. So a speed of 1/60th was incorrectly shown as 1/50th. Keks includes a useful calibration function to address the issue of the set speed and the indicated speed differing, as here.

    With the shutter set at 1/60th but the meter indicating 1/50th press the power (rear) button and the ISO ‘-‘ button to enter Settings. Then use the ISO ‘+’ button to cycle to ‘Reset’. Press the power button then press the ISO ‘+’ button until you see ‘Calibrate SS’. Press the power button. The display will read ‘Shutter: B-2’. Using the ISO ‘+’ button keep pressing the button until you see ‘1/60’, then press the power button once more. What was formerly displayed erroneously as 1/50th second is now correctly displayed as 1/60th second. This calibration function works for all shutter speeds, though in my case only one shutter speed was being displayed incorrectly. Given that there will be sample-to-sample variations in Leica M bodies Keks can only be applauded for adding this function. Clearly the designers are avid Leica M film camera users. Ingenious.

    Tech specs for the sensor:. Keks uses the Vishay VML7700 sensor and you can see the full technical specifications by clicking here.

    Setting shutter speeds with the meter off: You cannot set shutter speeds on the camera when the meter is off. It must be on for these to be visible. But it’s just a quick press of the rear button to illuminate the display so, again, not a big deal.

    Battery level: This is disclosed as shown at the lower left in the image above. 4 bars = 100%. The Leicameter MR/MR-4 uses a front panel battery level check, notorious for mechanical failure. The Keks approach is better, acting as a continuous reminder in use, with no buttons to press.

    Clearance for a rewind crank: Unless your camera is one of the M4 variants with the angled rewind crank, you may prefer to fit your earlier Leica M with a rapid rewind crank, as I do. In this case clearance with the side of the meter’s case is important as you really do not want to have to remove the meter to rewind the film. As the image below shows, clearance is more than adequate:



    Clearance with the rewind crank installed.

    Use in poor light:. Far superior to the older Leicameters as the Keks meter’s OLED display is internally illuminated. I just wish it was black on white rather than white on black.

    Beyond the limit? If the light is below the meter’s sensitivity range the aperture display simply changes from an f-number to three dashed lines. Fine with me.

    Sensitivity: Keks claims EV1 at the lower end, which is 1 second at f/1.4 with ISO100 film or 1/4 second at f/1.4 with ISO400 film. My tests suggest this is fairly stated. The upper limit is stated as EV20 which is jolly bright sunshine! I could get it as high as EV21 in the brightest setting.

    Accuracy: I compared readings from the Keks with those from my Leica M10 (built-in meter) and from my Gossen Luna-Pro F under a broad variety of lighting conditions. Used properly the Keks was in agreement with both.



    On my 1959 Leica M3.

    The Keks meter for Leica M is recommended without reservation, especially at the price asked.

    Battery replacement: I screwed up my courage and decided to take the top cover off to see about battery replacement.



    A 1.5mm Allen wrench is required. A German
    Stahlwille seems appropriate!



    The four screws around the periphery of the black
    plastic plate are removed. While no thread locker
    appears to be used they are a snug fit.



    The nicely machined top plate comes off
    along with three free-floating buttons –
    power, ISO up and ISO down.



    The innards exposed.



    Battery location?

    The battery is not immediately visible after this first stage dismantling. I suspect it’s under the right hand assembly – last image above – but fear that dismantling that will make reassembly difficult as it houses the shutter speed dial/rotator. So I called it quits at this point. (Check the Comment by Keks, below).

    So my suggestion to Keks – their comment below suggests they read this blog – is to publish the battery replacement procedure for those mechanically adept. The economics of sending the meter in for battery replacement likely do not solve. Now, sure, that battery should last many recharge cycles and several years, but as a legacy product – and a fine one at that – it would be nice to know that the meter can be kept functional in the long term.

Amaranth flour waffles

Cooking

Super healthy.

For an index of cooking articles on this blog click here.

One simple rule of healthy eating is to avoid any product with ingredients whose names you struggle to pronounce. That pretty much includes all ultra processed foods and store bought pancake mix for waffles.

In my piece profiling the Presto waffle maker I mentioned that I used Aunt Jemima pancake mix. (In deference to modern times, the ‘Aunt Jemima’ black mammy branding has been retired in favor of ‘Pearl Milling Company’ but the product remains the same). Well, applying the above guideline I note that that mix contains a slew of nasty sounding chemicals, so in the garbage can it goes. Garbage to garbage.

And say ‘Hullo’ to Amaranth flour, a five pound bag costing $30. I had to buy from Amazon but if you can source it locally it will almost certainly be cheaper. That’s roughly twice the price of the Aunt Jemima poison but, hey, that’s the cost of healthy eating. Do you think all those superbly toned Hollywood stars subsist on Big Macs, America’s biggest killer?

The recipe I use is here with the following changes:

  • Do not bother beating the eggs and milk, or pre-mixing the solid ingredients. Just put the lot in a bowl and stir/beat.
  • There is no need for the 15 minute cure period for the batter. It can be used immediately.
  • Do not add ANY granulated sugar or salt. There is absolutely nothing good about refined sugar or salt and the maple syrup will add all the sweetness you need.
  • I add dark chocolate chips to the batter – a solid handful
  • You should substitute Avocado oil (smoke point 515F, no saturated fat – good) for the vegetable oil (smoke point 400F, loaded with saturated fat – bad) or butter (way too low a smoke point) for a healthier mix. The high smoke point of the healthy avocado oil makes sure the pancakes do not get charred – avocado oil has the highest smoke point of any commonly used cooking oil, and is by far the healthiest choice
  • You must use a touch of anti-stick spray or the waffle will stick to the waffle maker’s platens – not ideal but the Pam spray I use mostly contains oils, with a touch of anti-smoke and anti-sticking chemicals. The waffler runs at 395F which is right up there with the smoke points of the three oils in the spray, hence the need for an anti-smoke agent.
  • After a requisite 3 minute warm up period I heat the batter for 3 minutes, flip the waffler, then heat for 3 minutes more, for a total of 6 minutes.
  • A five pound bag of flour will make 14 waffles in the Presto waffle maker.

The health benefits of amaranth are described here. It’s an ancient grain first used for food by the Aztecs! Perhaps most significant is the fact that amaranth flour is gluten free, a blessing for those who are wheat intolerant. The health benefits of avocado oil are described here.

For a fully formed waffle in the Presto waffle maker you require 1.1 cups of batter, meaning the following amounts should be used to make 2 waffles:

  • Egg – 1 large
  • Milk – 285 grams
  • Avocado oil – 45 grams
  • Amaranth flour – 155 grams
  • Salt – NONE.
  • Granulated sugar – NONE
  • Baking powder – 1 teaspoon (a dry chemical leavening agent, a mixture of a carbonate or bicarbonate and a weak acid which releases carbon dioxide into the waffle to make it rise)
  • A handful of dark chocolate chips (avoid the white variety which is loaded with saturated fat)
  • A handful of walnuts on top
  • Real maple syrup to taste
  • For a crisper waffle use a 50/50 mix of amaranth and bread flour

You can see that most of these measures are stated in weight rather than volume, which is the accurate way to go.



The result.

Here is the result using 1.1 cups of batter in the waffler:



One perfect waffle.

A single waffle topped with bananas, strawberries, blueberries and walnuts, chopped hazelnuts or slivered almonds makes for a healthy sub-300 calorie meal and please, only use real maple syrup. Sure, it’s costly but your body does not need the many poisons and imitation sugars in the cheap stuff.

By the way, the beautiful country style plate shown above is proudly made in America by H F Coors, in Tucson, Arizona, and is highly recommended for its provenance, quality and toughness.

Replacement Leica M10 battery – testing

Leica

Making sure it’s good.

For an index of all Leica-related articles click here.

I wrote an extended piece on the battery life of the Leica M10 here.

At the time I bought my used M10 in March, 2025 I made sure that spares were available. Though the camera was sold with a spare, the age of both batteries was unknown and I have not discovered a way of determining it. But, as soon as I took delivery of the camera all replacement supplies – and the battery is only available from Leica and its dealers – dried up. Go figure. I was staring down the barrel of a gun or, more accurately, at a potential $4,600 paperweight, and a useless camera.

So I bit my nails for a while and fretted, though both the batteries which came with the camera worked well, charged fully, and provided some 5 hours of life with the camera turned on and sleep disabled. That’s an essential setup for street photography where the 2 second ‘wake from sleep’ is unacceptably long. Further both batteries retained charge fairly well, losing maybe 5% weekly when unused, with the camera off.

Then one day I came across a listing by CameraWest in SF which showed the Leica M10 BP-SCL5 battery in stock, and immediately ordered one. A system glitch at the vendor’s end meant that in fact the battery was out of stock but their salesperson told me that they were getting small allocations from time to time and, indeed, one month after placing the order a new BP-SCL5 was in my hands, in a sealed Leica box.



The new Leica BP-SCL5 battery.

There is no indication of the age of the new battery and it ships fully discharged. I charged it in the Leica charger, a 5 hour process for the new cell, then inserted it in the M10, turned the camera on with sleep disabled and monitored the remaining charge, using the camera’s LCD display, at hourly intervals. Here are the results:

  • On installation – 100% charge
  • 1 hour later – 85%
  • 2 hours later – 50%
  • 3 hours later – 35%
  • 4 hours later – 15%
  • 4:35 hours later – 5%
  • 4:50 hours later – fully discharged

So the near 5 hour life is identical to that of the two older cells, suggesting the new one is good. I’ll see how it drains once in the camera with the camera turned off, but in the meanwhile should you succeed in snagging a new replacement, I suggest this test is worthwhile, given the $235 shipped cost of the battery.

On recharging the now flat new battery the process only took 2 hours, so it seems that the first charge (5 hours) takes much longer. The 2 hour time is similar for that of my two older batteries.

The correct use of NiMH batteries – when to recharge, how much to charge, and so on – is the subject of much confusing advice and data-light opinions. Best as I can determine there is no damage using a suitable charger which does not overcharge (the Leica charger has overcharge protection) nor is there any problem in fully discharging the battery before the next charge. It’s hard to get definitive advice, but at least I should be able to get another 5-10 years out of the new battery before consigning the M10 to a display case ….

Old Glory

Ramblings

Flying proudly.

My previous Stars & Stripes flag was a tad worse for wear and I never cared for the cheap printed design, meaning I splashed out for a higher quality stitched one with woven stars. Made in America, of course.

But this new one suffered from the same issue common to seemingly all flags mounted on an angled flagpole, namely that they get twisted around the pole in windy conditions, making for an unsightly presentation. So I determined to do something about it.

First I added two pairs of insanely powerful neodymium magnets towards the base to add heft. These certainly stopped the twirling around the pole but in high winds the magnets would adhere to the mild steel pole! And that looked even worse. Further, in a high wind the added weight generated additional force on the thin walled mild steel pole and …. the pole bent at a right angle, landing OG in the dirt.

So I added a hardwood dowel to add robustness to the pole, after some straightening and garage language, and …. a new gust of wind bent the pole and snapped the dowel like a matchstick. Clearly I was dealing with forces whose severity I did not appreciate. So off to the hardware store for two additional purchases. A length of steel rod for the inside of the pole and a three foot length of mild steel bar stock to place across the space between the magnet pairs to add stiffness to the flag and prevent the magnets from attaching themselves to the flagpole.

I first tried this arrangement transversely, the bar at right angles to the stripes and while it did the job the flag looked pretty unnatural, never coming to rest in wind free conditions. So then I tried it with the magnets on the bottom stripe and the bar stock parallel to that stripe and, bingo!, it worked perfectly and the flag looked gorgeous at rest.

But the devil was not done. Now in windy conditions the base holder, secured with three screws to a wooden upright, started to pull the screws out of the wood. So those three were replaced with longer and beefier alternatives and so far, so good. I now have a new appreciation for the term ‘wind power’. And, just for grins, I riveted the two section flagpole together as it had a tendency to separate, yet again landing OG in the bushes. So there!

One final step was called for and that was to spray paint the bar stock red. That would make it virtually disappear against the background of the red stripe and also protect against rust. And here is the happy result:


Old Glory at rest.
Triple cable ties for safety.

A tribute, enjoyed daily, to the once and future greatest nation there has ever been. Meanwhile, we have a convicted felon destroying the economy and kowtowing to our foes, an ex (?) heroin junkie masquerading as Health Secretary, and a billionaire zonker and manic humper destroying the tendrils of our government. What could possibly go wrong?