Category Archives: Photography

Cleaning HP DesignJet print heads

Printing

A blast from the past.

The HP DesignJet 30/90/130 printers (10″/18″/24″ maximum paper width, respectively) were as good as pro-amateur color printers were ever made. The three models, which date from 2006, use the same ink cartridges and print heads, six of each. The Vivera ink dyes used require special swellable HP paper which absorbs the dyes and is good for over 80 years of permanence.

I wrote extensively about the maintenance and care of these printers in a series of articles which you can find here. Suffice it to say that you will not find better blacks from any printer and even with glossy paper there is not so much as a hint of metamerism (bronzing). I have displayed prints for almost two decades in bright sun without a hint of fading.

When HP discontinued these printers I stocked up on the special paper at ten cents on the dollar and also bought a remaindered set of OEM print heads and ink cartridges. While I had all the prints I needed for home and exhibition display I knew that one day I would revisit making large prints so it made sense to lay in those supplies.

Well, the other day I decided that I wanted to make some new prints for framing, having become bored with what I had and knowing that some gems awaited printing in my catalog. But my HP DJ90 had seen no use in seven years and though I had kept it plugged in (and switched off) all those years, to enable the head warmers and the occasional automatic ink flush which HP’s engineers had cleverly built in, the display panel showed all sorts of weird symbols and no ink levels were to be seen. So I pulled all six print heads, cleaning the mating surface in the printer with a rag soaked in distilled water, and replaced them with the new OEM ones which I had kept in their sealed, foil wrapping. At the same time I replaced all the ink cartridges. After an extended period during which the printer primed the cartridges and supply lines (meaning they were filled with ink and air was purged) the printer fired up and worked perfectly! Joy.

Now the snag with these DesignJet models is that paper is no longer available, and ink and print heads, if found through web search can be very costly indeed. And as for spare parts they are largely unavailable so one day my printer will be so much landfill. Welcome to the disposable society. I had made a half-hearted attempt at cleaning clogged printheads in this piece which turned out to be so much time wasted. This time, rather than throwing the old heads away, I determined to do the job properly.

The print head comprises four parts:


Assembled head at left, dismantled, cleaned one at right.

In the above image these are:

  • The needle unit, top right
  • The cap with bellows – these act as an ink buffer
  • A rectangular gasket which seals the cap to the reservoir
  • The reservoir, bottom right

The design of the #84 (black) and the #85 (colors) heads is identical.

The print head is easily dismantled using a small, flat bladed screwdriver. First, put on some rubber gloves. Those dyes, once on your skin, are absorbed and hard to remove.

Then remove the needle unit, insert the blade of the screwdriver at the location shown in this image:


Removing the needle unit.

Carefully twist the screwdriver and the needle unit pops off.

Now it remains to remove the cap with its attached bellows.


Force application to separate the bladder unit from the reservoir.


How the cap with bellows assembly and reservoir are separated – side view.
Do this gently. Rotate too hard and too far and parts will break.

No tools are needed. Place your thumb at the location of the green arrow, the side of your forefinger at the location of the red arrow (on the underside of the protruding plastic, not at the side) and apply force in the direction shown by the curved blue arrow. The two will separate easily.

Being careful not to lose or damage the rectangular gasket which is between the bladder unit and the reservoir, flush all the parts with hot water from the tap, then soak them overnight to remove the last vestiges of ink. There is no need to use volatile solvents. Flush once more, air dry, then reassemble in the reverse order, being sure to place that rectangular gasket over the bellow assembly before snapping on the reservoir. The gasket nestles in a rectangular groove around the base of the bellows assembly. Be sure it is securely lodged in that groove, helping it along with a jeweler’s screwdriver if necessary, before snapping the reservoir and bellows assembly together. The needle unit is replaced last, snapping into place.

Your HP DJ print head is now ready to be put back in service. There is no need to pre-fill it with ink. The HP DesignJet will do that for you when first turned on with the new print head(s) installed. Give it 30 minutes or so to complete this process.

The Nikkor 16-35mm revisited

Nikon lenses

All that’s old is new again.

I last wrote about this ultrawide full-frame zoom in 2012. I must have been enjoying a period of more money than sense as I paid the full retail price of $1300 for what was a lens recently introduced by Nikon. At that time I wrote:

It’s bulky, the gargantuan lens hood is needed to shade the exposed front element, it’s set in a yucky resin body and at 24 ounces it’s no featherweight. The maximum aperture of f/4 is relatively modest and you will struggle getting dramatic differential focus effects. Being a ‘G’ optic there is no traditional aperture ring, aperture control being solely possible from the control dial on the body. I prefer a ring on the lens. Finally, at just under $1300 it’s anything but cheap.

The lens was sold after a couple of years’ use when I went all MF. That 16-35mm was in great demand at the time so the high resale price somewhat mollified the pain from the damage to my pocketbook.

When Nikon started transitioning from flapping mirror DSLRs to the mirrorless Z range, they did buyers of the old Nikon F mount optics a great favor. Stated simply, the bottom dropped out of the market on resale value on some of the finest optics known to man. Having recently added mint examples of the D800 and the 28-300mm zoom, I could not resist completing the focal length range with an ultrawide zoom and picked up a near new specimen of the 16-35mm ultrawide zoom for …. $315! Thank you Nikon and thank you Mr. Upgrading Seller. And thanks also for the free Hoya UV “Antistatic” (whaaat?) filter which sells for $70.

All the familiar characteristics of the 16-35mm are there. The awful barrel distortion at 16mm (the built in Lightroom Classic lens correction profile takes care of that with ease), the huge bulk and the slow maximum aperture. You can’t do anything about the bulk but the fact that this was the first ultrawide zoom with Vibration Reduction makes that f/4 maximum aperture more like f/2, and it works well.

But how wide, exactly, is 16mm? In full frame vernacular it’s plenty wide but not as wide as the claimed 12mm of the ultrawide optic in my iPhone 12 Pro Max, one of the best reasons for buying the iPhone. Yes, that device may have third world ergonomics and lacks reach at the long end of the lens range, but the ultrawide is excellent.

I set to checking who is who and what is what with two quick comparisons:


The 16-35mm Nikkor at 16mm**.


The 12mm lens on the iPhone 12 Pro Max.

** With distortion correction using the Adobe profile in Lightroom v6.

The answer is that the iPhone is noticeably wider using the ultrawide lens, if not as wide as you might expect, but what is really interesting is the comparison of resolving power from the miniscule lens in the iPhone with the giant on the D800. Yes, the D800 is better, but barely so. And the lenses in the iPhone will only get better whereas the Nikkor 16-35mm has remained unchanged for over a decade.


Comparing definition at 1:1. iPhone at left.

Still, for a modest investment of under $1,400 I have a top class 36mp sensor body and a lens focal length range of 16-300mm with just two zooms. I’ll leave you to count how many fixed focal length optics those two zooms replace and the fact that I can stretch the 300mm to 1000mm with relative impunity is just icing on the cake. Can’t do that with an iPhone.

Here’s my complete D800 kit:


The 16-35mm and 28-300mm VR Nikkors with the D800 body.

Fake Nikon camera batteries

Nikon bodies

Watch out!

A few years ago B&H, a reputable vendor of photo hardware, was forced to recall a batch of EN-EL15b Nikon batteries which turned out to be anything other than OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer). In fact they did not even ask for their return. They sent new OEM ones to purchasers of the bad batch and asked that the originals be recycled. B&H had been scammed and acted honorably to fix their procurement mistake.


The B&H recall advisory.

Battery fraud is common and my research indicates that saving $30-40 on an aftermarket or eBay ‘Nikon’ battery is false economy.

The D800 and many other Nikon bodies take the EN-EL15, of which there have been 4 versions – EN-EL15, EN-EL15a, EN-EL15b, EN-EL15c.

The D800 came with the EN-EL15 but all later models fit. The ‘a’ and ‘b’ variants appear to be complying with new labeling requirements as the first three versions are all rated at 1900mAh. The ‘c’, which came with later mirrorless bodies, has increased the capacity to 2280 mAH, or 20% more shots, which is a lot.

My D800 came with two EN-EL15; the one would only charge to 40%, the other would charge to 100% but then lose 20% daily even without use, so I bought a new Nikon OEM EN-EL15c. Neither battery which came with the camera, when fully charged (solid LED on the charger), would reset the shot counter on the D800’s LCD.

Advice from Nikon and others as to compatibility is all over the place. I have found no issues charging or using the EN-EL15c in the D800 with the original charger MH-25.

Disadvantage of the OEM battery? It costs two or three times as much as the fakes.

Reckon on 2000-3000 snaps per charge (assuming no LCD chimping and no wi-fi use on bodies which have it). So I only need one good one. No way I take >2000 snaps in a session.

One excellent article on the subject is this one. The comments are particularly worth reading.

After reading that piece and others on the interwebs, I conclude there are eight indicators to look for in spotting fake Nikon camera batteries:

  • The four notches on the long sides of the holographic gold label on the back. Real batteries have these. Fakes may not unless they are really good fakes.
  • Weight. A real battery weighs 78-87 grams. Fakes may weigh less as there’s less power storage material inside. My new EN-EL15c came in at 80 grams.
  • Tap for a hollow sound. Tap the rounded sides of the battery with a fingernail. A hollow sound indicates a fake. A solid one points to the real thing – or a really good fake. The hollow sound is the result of the internal void from lack of energy storage material.
  • Failure to reset the shot counter to ‘0’ after a recharge. The shot counter in my D800 can be found on the LCD tool menu->Battery Info. An OEM battery resets this to zero after a full recharge. A fake one may not.
  • Failure to reach full charge in the MH-25 (or MH-25A – identical) Nikon charger. My new EN-EL15c gets a solid ‘fully charged’ light in the OEM charger, from dead flat (as shipped), in 2 hours and 45 minutes. A fake or aftermarket one may not.
  • Loss of charge, as indicated by the camera’s battery indicator, even after a period of non-use. This can indicate a fake or a really tired OEM battery.
  • There is a small stamped lower case alphabetic letter between the ‘+’ sign near the connector and the connector. It’s ‘a’ for the EN-EL15a, ‘b’ for the EN-EL15b and ‘c’ for the EN-EL15c. It’s blank on the original EN-EL15 so this is not a foolproof indicator. To be safe if you battery is an ‘a’, ‘b’ or ‘c’ model and the stamped letter is missing, it’s probably a fake.
  • Price. If it’s much under $70 and/or does not come in a Nikon box with circular holographic label, it’s probably a fake.

If any of the above symptoms is present, the chance are that your battery is a fake. (You need to check for all eight as each can be countered by a really good faker. It’s unlikely all eight will be). The first eight digits of the serial number on the battery are the manufacture date in the format yyymmdd. If the battery is much used and over 4 years old, even if OEM, it’s probably close to the end of its useful life.


One of the four notches on the holographic label is arrowed.
Both of these batteries have all four notches.

There are many <$30 Nikon batteries on eBay which never seem to come with a Nikon box which, when included, should also carry a holographic circular label.


OEM box. The holographic circular label is at top right.

The broader issue is why waste money on a non-OEM battery which can swell and jam in the camera or, in extreme cases, catch fire when being recharged? The camera costs many times the premium for the OEM battery. And good luck with the home fire claim with your friendly insurance company. My brand new OEM EN-EL15c cost $70 from a factory authorized vendor, has the holographic label notches, does not sound hollow when tapped, resets the camera’s shot counter to ‘0’ after a full recharge, gets a solid glowing LED on the MH-25 charger when full charged and does not lose charge even after many days of non use in the camera. And yes, there’s a stamped ‘c’ near the ‘+’ embossing:


Arrow indicates the stamped ‘c’ on my OEM EN-EL15c battery.

Apply all of the eight indicators above when examining your battery and you will almost certainly know if it is OEM or a fake. (For original EN-EL15 batteries, disregards the seventh indicator in the bulleted list above).

As for private label aftermarket batteries, it’s a crapshoot. As Mr. Eastwood once put it “Do you feel lucky?”.

Nikon D800 cropping

Nikon bodies, Nikon lenses, Photographs

1,000mm? Hand held? No prob.

Cattail fields are a favorite perching palace for male redwinged blackbirds. (The blah-looking females keep a far lower profile).

The birds are fairly shy and while it’s a joy to listen to their trilling sounds, getting close enough for a good picture is something of a challenge.

The long end of 300mm on my 28-300mm AF-S VR Nikkor is really not enough for the job, but it’s not like I’m going to lug around 8.4lbs and $12,000 of 600 f/4 AF-S Nikkor bottle, so I make do with what I have:


The red winged blackbird on a favorite perch.

How best to do that? Simply crop like crazy, taking benefit of the massive pixel count of the Nikon D800, and handhold with VR for a perfectly sharp result, using center spot AF:


Here’s the full frame. Focal length equivalent for the crop is 1,000mm.