Category Archives: Hardware

Stuff

Back to the future

Cameras, iPhone

Minolta pointed the way.

Given that they have yet to have an idea not stolen from someone else – meanly mostly from Apple – I spend little time in reading about anything from Samsung.

But their most recent theft is surprising only for how long it took them to think of it, for their latest ‘high-end’ phone (there’s an oxymoron for you) steals from a 2002 inspired design by Minolta in its 2mp Dimage digital point and shoot.



The elegant Minolta Dimage of 2002.

This elegant design had one truly original feature, in addition to its neat packaging in that small square case. It used a periscope optical zoom, vertically oriented inside the case, with light rays deflected through the associated right angle with a mirrored prism. This allowed the incorporation of an otherwise lengthy optical path within the tight confines of the body, a small 3.3″ x 2.8″ x 0.8″. For comparison, my iPhone 11 Pro in its case measures 5.5″ x 3″ x 0.5″.

This cutaway view shows how it worked:



Illustration of the ‘folded’ optical path.

We can expect to see this sort of thing in a future iPhone as modern technology has made things even smaller 18 years after Minolta’s inspired design. Optical zooms beat digital zooms as there’s no pixel degredation as magnifications increase.

Now if there’s a criticism to be leveled at the iPhone 11 Pro – in addition to its poor ergonomics – it’s that there’s no lens at the long end. Sure, there’s a 10x digital zoom, but you can do that just as easily in Lightroom, with all the attendant issues. So you are stuck with ultrawide, very wide and normal, call it 12mm, 24mm and 50mm FFE, all superb but none of them long.

So if Apple can add one of those ‘periscope’ optical zooms and make the 50mm a 50-200mm optic, well, that’s going to be all she wrote for the few remaining sales of silly-priced and even sillier-sized DSLRs.

Fuji X100V

Fuji

Ummm ….

Technologies reach their peak just before they die.

Recent examples include the LP, cassette tapes, the CD, the DVD and so on.

Here’s the latest:



Let’s take a quick look at the feature set, or rather at the lack thereof:

  • No IBIS
  • No GPS
  • No HDR
  • No Night Mode
  • Only one lens
  • Cannot store an image depth map
  • Has zero access security
  • Cannot make phone calls
  • Cannot surf the web
  • Cannot give you directions
  • Cannot pay for your groceries
  • Cannot buy your airline tickets
  • You cannot read a book on it
  • Cannot play your videos
  • Cannot play your music
  • Cannot fit in your pocket
  • Cannot run 2 days on one charge
  • Cannot call for pizza delivery
  • Does not come in green
  • $1400

Yep, a real value, that one.

The old Mac Pro is plenty fast

Mac Pro

Perfect for Lightroom.

For an index of all my Mac Pro articles, click here.

If still image processing is your thing and you do not need fast 4K, 8K or 100K movie capability, the old Mac Pro is perfectly adequate.

Click the video to learn more:


Hover the mouse over the video and click the rectangle at bottom right for a full screen view.

A nice 2010 dual CPU Mac Pro can be had for under $500, the faster CPUs to replace the pokey stock ones ran me $170 for two X5690 (at 3.46gHz, the fastest which will work in this chassis), the memory another $115 (you can use cheap server memory in a Mac Pro chassis) and I would recommend an RX580 GPU as it will work with Catalina (my GTX980 stops at High Sierra). Reckon on $180 for the GPU. So for under $1000 you have an industrial grade machine, as fast as anything out there, and infinitely repairable. The only modern connectivity you cannot install is Thunderbolt, so if that is important to you, this is not the right hardware solution.

For the techies out there, here’s the Geekbench data for CPU and memory performance:



Geekbench data for the computer used in the above video.
I am running High Sierra.

I am using a BENQ PD3200Q display which I recommend based on its price:performance.

A wrist strap for the iPhone

iPhone

Avoiding ‘Woopsie’.

When snapping away with the iPhone at the car show the other day, I kept the iPhone’s camera turned on at all times and in my left hand, ready for instant action. Half way through this sojourn I had what can only be described as a Big Moment and almost dropped the bloody thing on the ground. Hard unyielding ground, protective case be damned. These things never work when needed; I use mine to hold credit cards and my driver’s license.

So it occurred to me that what is called for is a wrist tether and after reviewing the awful choices on Amazon I decided to craft my own. A custom tether – I’m selling these for $499, free shipping, to all iPhone 11 Pro owners. Lesser models need not apply. Comes with an autographed Certificate of Authenticity.

A 3 foot Lightning cable is purchased form Amazon for all of $7.



It’s cut at 22″ from the Lightning connector end.



Two pieces of heat shrink tubing are cut to 3″ (small) and 4″ (large) length. The small must accommodate two passes of the cable. The large must be able to slip over the Lightning connector.



The cable is doubled up after measuring for the correct wrist strap loop diameter. Leave 2.5″ of the tail exposed and heat shrink the tubing in place.



Next the broad diameter tubing is slipped over the Lightning connector and over the small diameter shrunken tubing; the tail is doubled back into the large tubing.



The large diameter tubing is heat shrunk into place and the wrist strap/tether is complete.



Belt and suspenders:

Apple has carefully designed the Lightning connector to prevent excessive force requirements for insertion or removal. Give the above assembly a strong yank and phone and wrist strap part company.

So a fail-safe is added in the form of a monofilament loop, one end attached to an old credit card, the other to the end of the wrist strap.



I used a very fine #60 drill to make a hole in the credit card
to permit pass-through of the length of 30lb. monofilament.



The monofilament is secured on both ends with a length of heat shrink-tubing, the tail
is reversed and a second length of larger diameter tubing is installed atop.



The credit card is installed in the sliding opening for credit cards,
the opening is shut and the whole assembly is very secure. In the event of a
serious yank the Lightning cable will still separate from the iPhone,
but the credit card will save all.

The credit card is actually installed with the loop inserted first, for maximum security, not as shown in the image above.

No more ‘Woopsie’.

I use a Lameeku iPhone 11 Pro wallet and am very pleased with it.

Focos depth masks

iPhone, Photographs

A closer look at a useful app.

I made mention of the inexpensive Focos app as part of my preliminary look at the new iPhone 11 Pro.

Since then I have done more reading and learning and set forth below how to use manual masking to optimise out of focus areas.

I mistakenly stated that Focos used the depth map which iPhone 11 saves with the image. In fact iPhone 11 only saves such a depth map – a detailed database showing the distance of each pixel in the image from the lens – with images taken using the Portrait mode. In Portrait mode the iPhone 11 switches to the 2x lens and, indeed, the extent of the blurring of out of focus areas can be changed in the iPhone stock Photos app. Go into edit mode, tap the yellow concentric circle at top left and you can adjust the aperture and hence the OOF effect.

Yet Focos allows DOF manipulation even on images taken on pre-iPhone X models, the first iPhone with a depth sensor. That sensor is also used as part of the FaceID security access protection system for the device.

How does Focos do this? It uses Artificial Intelligence to guesstimate the distance of image points from the lens, such AI based on analysis of over one million images, according to the developer. This allows the photographer to not only change the degree of blurring in post processing, but also to change the exact point of sharpest focus, something that cannot be done in iPhone X and 11 Portrait mode images, or in any other image from those iPhones in post-processing.

Mostly, for solid components in the picture, Focos does a good job at establishing its own depth map based on this AI approach. But sometimes it’s not so good.

Take this image:



Original iPhone 11 image, no Portrait mode.

Passing this through Focos keeps the jacket and embossed stitching razor sharp, but the hair is not sharply rendered.

In such cases, Focos has a manual facility where the depth map and the sharp area can be changed.

The default depth map (red areas) for this image has been extended to add the back of the veteran’s head, originally not shaded in red:



The sharp area mask has been extended in Focos on the iPhone.

Rather than using an imprecise finger to mask the sharp area, I use an inexpensive electrostatic pen, something like this:



Pen used for masking.

Further, while the image can be enlarged on the iPhone for greater masking precision, it’s far easier to do this on the larger iPad screen, so I use AirDrop to export the image to Photos on the iPad, and have at it there. The aperture/OOF effect are adjusted in this screen:



Adjusting the degree of blur on the iPad.

Then the blur appearance is modified using your lens of choice. I invariably use the Leitz 50mm Elmar as I like the benign bokeh it delivers – and because I used one for years:



Lens choices, shown on the iPad.

And here is the happy result, which takes less time to do than it does to explain:



The final result.

So for those instances where Focos does a poor auto-masking job, manual masking easily fixes what ails it.

What happens when the going gets tough? This is the sort of image which is a nightmare for computational photography when it’s a case of blurring backgrounds. In Portrait mode the iPhone 11 does a very poor job:



SOOC in Portrait mode.

At f/4.5, the camera’s selected aperture, some of the spokes have gone missing. This is likely because there are simply too few pixels in the depth map sensor to permit creation of a sufficiently detailed enough map. The spokes are small in the image and likely preclude sufficiently accurate depth map recording. As this image was taken using Portrait mode, meaning the iPhone has stored a depth map, how does it look when the aperture is increased to the maximum available, f/1.4 in the Photos app? Even worse:



Aperture changed in iPhone Photos edit mode. At maximum aperture spokes disappear.

How about a regular, non-Portrait mode image snapped on the iPhone 11 Pro and manipulated in Focos for an f/1.4 aperture? Still awful, though better than the iPhone’s Portrait mode + in camera depth map delivers, but some OOF areas are shown sharp:



The final result.

So until depth sensors get finer ‘grained’ both the iPhone’s Portrait mode and Focos’s AI approach leave something to be desired. And only a true masochist would seek to edit the spoked wheel image for proper rendering. Simply move the slider to f/16 in either image and all is sharp. Forget about bokeh. That will have to do for now as we await a better iPhone depth sensor – which is likely, given Apple’s increasing focus on 3D rendering in future iPhones.

When should you use Focos in lieu of the iPhone’s portrait mode? If taking bursts, as Portrait mode prohibits those. Or when you need the far greater versatility Focos offers for manipulating OOF areas. Otherwise, the iPhone 11 Pro’s native Portrait mode is perfectly fine, as long as your preferred daily rider and photo subject is not a classic bike with spoked wheels!