Category Archives: Hardware

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Mac OS 10.8.3

One nice enhancement.

The best thing about Apple’s troubles – a CEO with the charisma of a sponge, a stock down over 30% from its peak, more cash than it knows what to do with, a tired cell phone offering, a lack of innovation and failure in the TV market – is that these many distractions mean fewer updates of OS X, the OS powering Macs and Hackintoshes. Because, let’s face it, every ‘enhancement’ since OS Snow Leopard (10.6) has been so much fluff and noise. SL (Intel machines only) can still be bought from Amazon for some $40 but will almost certainly not run on the latest Macs. It’s fine with Hacks and offers one huge feature missing from Lion and Mountain Lion – Rosetta, the PPC G3/4/5 emulator which allows it to run any old apps from your PPC days on an Intel Mac or Hack. You know, apps like HP’s DJ30/90/130 color management utility which will not run on anything later and is essential for debugging whatever ails your HP DesignJet dye ink printer.

As I still have a ten year old PPC iMac G4 for DesignJet maintenance, the loss of Rosetta is not such a big deal, so it was with trepidation that I approached the latest minor upgrade of Mountain Lion 10.8.3. What else would now be broken by Cupertino’s policy of planned obsolescence?

When performing the upgrade I did so by downloading the complete (Combo) update from Apple here rather than the incremental upgrade which is what is applied if you upgrade through the App Store. Hackintosh community chat has it that a Combo upgrade is more reliable than an incremental one. I have no idea if that is true, but this approach avoids being forced to upgrade to the latest version of iTunes, an app which Apple has never got right.

After a week of running I can say it seems fine and there is one significant enhancement. Because one of the new 2012 iMacs uses the nVidia 660M GPU, Apple has had to provide native support in OS X for the nVidia 660 GPU family to run OS X on that machine. The GTX 660 is one of nVidia’s finest bang-for-the-buck mid-range GPUs, with the 660M in the iMac being – yup, you guessed it – a crippled version. The iMac 660M version has but 0.5GB of memory, compared with 2GB (3GB on some EVGA cards in the US for $30 more) for the aftermarket cards. I would bet the clock speed is lower too, heat being any iMac’s bugbear, but cannot confirm this. The Zotac GTX 660 I am using (not the 660 TI) retails for $215, which includes two powerful variable speed integrated fans which are exceptionally quiet. These aftermarket cards all support up to two 2560 x 1600 pixel displays and include HDMI and DisplayPort in addition to DVI sockets. The Zotac board is recommended over the competitors’ if you have limited space in your box. It is considerably shorter, making a major difference to the accessibility of the motherboard’s SATA sockets in my Antec Sonata III enclosure. Non-trivial.

To put the sophistication of these latest GPUs into context, the Intel i7 Ivy Bridge CPU has some 800,000 transistors. The nVidia GTX660 CPU has 2.54bn – three times as many! Little wonder nVidia is making serious progress in the world of supercomputers, where its graphics chips are delivering cost effective performance at state-of-the-art throughputs.

My three monitors remain the estimable Dell 1650 x 1080 21.5″ 2209WA IPS ones, now some 4 years old, because they are easily calibrated and the dot pitch is fine for my purposes. Plus I like the bigger default fonts these deliver. If you use newer 1920 x 1200, 1920 x 1080, 2560 x 1600 or 2560 x 1440 displays, a card like the GTX 660 will easily crunch through graphics which might leave earlier nVidia GT2xx, GT4xx, 98xx or 88xx cards running out of steam.

I wrote about updating my HP100 Hack to nVidia’s latest card here and that hardware and OS needed nVidia’s separate drivers to make the card work. Now, with 10.8.3, the drivers come with the OS, so no external drivers are necessary. The benefits are twofold. My Hack is now more stable – looking to be as good as in the Snow Leopard days of yore – and the CPU’s idle temperature has fallen from 104F to 94F. Nice. The start-up problem where 10.8.2 frequently refused to recognize my third display, driven through a DisplayLink USB dongle, is gone. And the i1 DisplayOne Lion colorimeter display profiling software continues to work fine.

The Zotac GTX 660 in the HP100. Lots of room.

The native GTX660 support works for all nVidia cards, whether Asus, EVGA, MSI, Gigabyte (all per chat boards), Zotac (mine), PNY (tested and owned by reader PB) or any other brand. The chips are the same. Once you upgrade your Hack to 10.8.3 you can delete these two lines from your Boot Drive/Extra/org.chameleon.Boot.plist file on your Hackintosh as the presence of native drivers no longer requires the Hack to be informed that a 660 Kepler card is installed (thanks to reader PB for the tip):


The above lines can be deleted.

nVidia also released an update to its CUDA driver, which you can download through the related System Preferences pane, after which you will see this:


Latest CUDA driver.

The System Information->Displays data is also updated to reflect the use of native nVidia 660 drivers:

Let us all hope that Apple remains seriously distracted with its other woes and leaves OS X alone for good and all, instead of adding dumb gesture support, hidden Library directories and poorly implemented voice recognition. They might like to start by fixing the joke that is Siri on the iPhone. I use Google search on my iPhone – it’s everything Siri is not. Fast, accurate, a joy to use for voice search with excellent speech recognition. Even if you speak English, like me, not American!

Rolleiflex 6003

The ultimate medium format film SLR.

Franke & Heidecke had been making twin lens reflex medium format film cameras since 1920 until they decided to compete with Hasselblad with an SLR medium format design named the SLX in 1976. This quickly got a reputation as one awfully unreliable piece of hardware with common failures including the film drive motor and the lens aperture motor. Hasselblad was not about to be replaced as the fashionistas’ camera of choice, a reputation earned over several decades by the Swedish camera maker using Zeiss lenses.

But Rollei kept banging away and by the time the Rolleiflex 6003 Professional was introduced in 1996, the product was close to perfection. One later iteration saw the addition of AF, hardly an essential in this type of body and dictating replacement of all those expensive optics, but the 6003 Pro improved on the dated Hasselblad’s design in every way possible.

The design was Bauhaus modern, the oversized controls on the body and lenses perfectly conceived and the detachable handgrip, which could lock at various angles, was a piece of design genius. It made a clunky studio camera into a fully fledged street operator, albeit at the price of a lot of dollars and avoirdupois. This camera was heavy!

The images below are of (and by) the one I owned.


Large, clear controls. Note the Multiple Exposure dial, lower right.


Bauhaus design influences everywhere.
Beautifully designed and integrated handgrip with adjacent green shutter release.


The collapsible waist-level hood could be replaced with a 45 degree pentaprism.


Rear view. I was always a Kodak man.


Compact, inexpensive film holders could be preloaded for rapid reloading.
Unlike the tortuous film path in the Hasselblad, Rollei did it right.
Fully interchangeable backs were also available.


Easy to use exposure compensation dial. The mirror could be locked-up.
Spot/average metering control on the periphery. Modern flash shoe.


Built-in QR tripod base.


Easily changed focusing screen. I used
an aftermarket Beattie Intenscreen, far brighter than stock.


High capacity NiCd battery could be swapped in seconds and powered the
film motor, the exposure meter and the lens’s diaphragm.
The fuse protects the battery from overcharging.


The controls and markings on the lens were outstanding.
Operation with gloves was very easy.


150mm Zeiss Sonnar portrait lens.


Tack sharp – and massive – 40mm Zeiss Distagon wide-angle optic.


The 45 degree prism finder could be rotated.


Massive – and massively imposing – 350mm Zeiss Tele-Tessar telephoto.


Extension tube showing electronic contacts for the lens.


The outfit in a LowePro backpack.

Where the Hasselblad was created in a mechanical age, the Rollei was clearly a child of the electronic era. Unlike with the Hasselblad, the Rollei had motorized film advance (available for extra on special Hasselblad models, and still as clunky as it gets), an instant return mirror where the Hasselblad had none, and far superior ergonomics. It was an integrated whole, needing no add-on gadgets. The accurate TTL meter was built-in, you could opt for aperture-priority, shutter-priority or fully automatic program modes, single or continuous shooting, spot or average metering and even TTL flash metering on the 6008 variant. There was a full bright red LED status readout of all the vital signs at the base of the finder window and once you attached the 45 degree prism the outfit would really sing at a comfortable chest/eye level. There were two shutter releases – green in the above images – the one perfectly placed for use with the handgrip. Hand held use for close-ups was easy with a couple of extension tubes which conveyed all the information needed to the camera and lens using electrical contacts. Even the aperture was electronically controlled by a linear motor – advanced in its day, now stock in most DSLR lenses.

Hasselblad’s claimed advantage was that all the lenses for the 500C and later bodies had in-lens leaf shutters, the long-lived Synchro-Compur. This purportedly added to the cost of lenses, not that shutterless Rollei/Zeiss lenses seemed any cheaper. Rollei countered by adding selected lenses with leaf shutters, which have the advantage that they can be sync’d with flash at any speed, unlike focal plane shutters, allowing for easier balancing of ambient light and motion blur. Eventually Schneider also offered lenses for the Rollei, just as it did for the Hasselblad, making for a very large lens selection indeed for both marques. If you could afford them, that is. These optics were insanely expensive, not helped by a perenially strong Deutschemark and an overfed and overpaid German worker. Nothing changes.

I used mine with a Nikon Coolscan 8000 film scanner which would take a few minutes to render a 4000 dpi scan for a theoretical definition of 81mp, but in practice with all the variables, the vagaries of film and scanner and so on, it looks more like 10mp on my display using Lightroom.

And that was the Rollei’s undoing. When the 12mp Canon 5D was released as the first full frame affordable DSLR, a first look at the results doomed the Rollei to eBay. The Canon had superior resolution and color rendering, the lenses were outstanding and much faster, the body was a fraction of the bulk and cost of the Rollei and if you wanted 3+ fps, no problemo. But, best of all, there was no need to waste precious time scanning and then retouching the spots and scratches conferred by the film lab. And that was after first waiting to get the film back.

But my, my, what a well designed and fun to use machine this Rollei was. It always reminded me of what Lord Chesterfield said of sex. “The pleasure momentary, one’s position ridiculous and the cost damnable”. I sold my outfit before the penny dropped in the mass market that MF film was dead. A year or two after sale the price of used Rollei MF SLR gear had dropped 70% and Rollei had gone bust. Such is technological obsolescence.

It mystifies me why anyone would buy one today when a like-priced Nikon D600, with lenses a fraction of the cost, will leave the Rollei in the dust in every regard. Further, spares are unavailable and qualified technicians who can fix the electronics are even rarer. Finally, be prepared to procure replacement cells and soldering skills when the dated NiCd battery gives up the ghost. But as a design and display exercise, it’s as good as medium format film cameras ever got.

If you really must get into MF film gear SLRs, I highly recommend a Hasselblad. The bodies are mechanical, aesthetically beautiful to hold and behold, easily fixed and abundantly available. Their dated features are more than compensated by the ease of repair and the ready availability of spares and technicians, even if Lord Chesterfield’s pricing mechanism comes to mind.

As for all you hear about the plasticity and rendering and blah, blah, blah of medium format film, forget it. Pure claptrap engaged in by those with too large an investment in dead tech, now worthless.


Morro Rock from Highway 46. 350mm Tele-Tessar.


Sunrise, Templeton, CA. 40mm Distagon.


Highway 46 at Highway One. 150mm Sonnar.


Starfish, Moonstone Beach. 80mm Planar.


Moss and molluscs, Moonstone Beach. 80mm Planar.


Clams and rock, Moonstone Beach. 150mm Sonnar.


Driftwood. My son calls this one ‘The Snake’ and he was the one who spotted it.
“Daddy, daddy! Look, look! A snake!”
150mm Sonnar – 9+ 17mm Extension tubes.

Fuji X100s

Second time lucky?

Though I bought the Fuji X100 shortly after it became available, by the time it arrived reports confirmed that the software was deeply flawed and the camera was cursed by slow AF. So when it arrived I flipped it for a quick ‘unopened box’ sale and kept the profit.

In the meanwhile Fuji tinkered mightily with the software bugs, things like preferred settings disappearing after a battery change, but the poor AF performance was never really fixed.

Now they are having another go and I am more than willing to give this innovative camera maker a second chance.

The replacement, named the X100s, has the benefit of all the testers – they are known as customers here – reporting software bugs, so that side should be robust. The new version has the same body and fixed 23mm f/2 (35mm FFE) lens and hybrid viewfinder, a 16mp CMOS sensor replacing the earlier 12mp, and adds three focusing features which should transform the user experience. The more important of these is that a phase detection sensor array has been added for fast focusing in decent light – just like the system used by the stellar Panasonic G1 and G3 bodies I own whose AF is fast if not Nikon/Canon DSLR fast. The other two new focus features include an innovative manual focus aid which Fuji calls ‘Digital Split Image’ and focus-peaking. The Digital Split Image works in the EVF finder mode only and splits an unsharp image into horizontal strips. Get it right and the strips disappear. Sort of like a Leica M rangefinder patch on steroids. I’m not that sure that MF makes much sense in a fast street snapper like this but it’s clever and I look forward to trying it. The other MF assist is focus-peaking which highlights the sharp areas in the EVF.

This is the sort of innovation Leica can only dream about and I would be prepared to bet that Fuji will release a full frame version of the APS-C X100s before long. Given that a 35mm lens was what I used on my Leicas 90% of the time it’s not inappropriate to think of this as a Leica killer. The new Leica M and a 35mm Asph Summicron will run you $10,000. I would guess an FF Fuji with a fixed 35mm f/2 lens would come in under $2,000. Fuji will sell all they can make. Hopefully they will make a further follow up with a second body with a 75-90mm fast fixed lens which will make for the ideal outfit. Two small cameras, one wide, one medium-telephoto.

Other good news is that Adobe has enhanced its RAW processor in LR and PS to take advantage of the unusual pixel arrangement in Fuji’s sensor so enhanced image quality should come with the upgrade.

Logitech G500 gaming mouse

The great mouse search continues.


The Logitech G500 corded Gaming Mouse.

The last time I wrote about mice I had settled on the Logitech MX Revolution. That started developing the dreaded double-click symptom on the left click pad, indicating wear, and well known in the Logitech world. I transplanted a clicker from another Logitech but to no avail. The job is sheer hell and I do not recommend you try. The problem continued. It is very frustrating to have a mouse click twice when you click once. Maybe mine had seen heavy gaming use? After all, these gaming chaps hammer away at their gear, Logitech’s claimed clicker life of 8 million clicks notwithstanding.

Thus I reverted to the older Logitech MX900 which had the advantage that it optionally used two rechargeable AA cells, with a life of some 4 days, though these were easily switched. On the other hand, I greatly missed two features of the Revolution. The ability to switch the scroll wheel from stepped to smooth inertial mode, where I used it all the time, and that same wheel’s ability to scroll left and right in wide spreadsheets and the like.

Then the other day a friend sent me a bunch of links relating to gaming mice. I had tried a Razer Death Adder (!) and it was OK and, of course, much better than the ergonomic catastrophe that is the Apple Magic Mouse. Magic solely in the way that it runs up your carpal tunnel bills. What was a real eye opener was the number of manufacturers of mice out there dedicated to gaming. As my friend pointed out, that’s not surprising when you look at the revenues of the gaming sector, and it makes sense that the best and most innovative mouse designs would be for gamers. Who else uses a mouse harder and more often, after all?

Nearly all of these mice are solely for Windows, so much so that many sites don’t even bother to mention the OS supported. But we Mac users have an ace up our sleeve, the eminently capable SteerMouse app which loads as a preference pane in System Preferences. Further, additional code is provided to enable full functionality on many Logitech mice.

I finally decided on the Logitech G500 wired gaming mouse. Wired, as I’m tired of changing batteries, and the G500 as it has the same switchable scroll wheel design of the Revolution (albeit switched with a separate button rather than by a press on the scroll wheel, thus leaving a scroll wheel press to do better things) allowing stepped or inertial/smooth scrolling and side tilts.

There’s a lot to like here. One unusual feature is the provision of a dozen small weights, up to six of which can be clipped into a small holder which is inserted into the base of the mouse. I went for the maximum weight added of 6 x 4.5g, because that confers the heft I am used to. The top surface is a mottled grey (well, at least there are no neon lights) and the sides are a coarse nubby finish. I would prefer smooth, but it’s no big deal. If you add the code from SteerMouse here – see Update 4.1.4 – you can have the +/- buttons on the mouse act as sensitivity selectors with three settings indicated by the red LEDs on the top left of the mouse. Windows users get five settings, but you can emulate all of that in the Steer Mouse preference pane, though you do lose the ability of making additional changes on the fly. If you do not add the code you can program the +/- buttons to do your bidding in the SteerMouse preference pane.

These on-the-fly sensitivity selectors are actually quite handy for a Photoshop or Lightroom user. When outlining areas in PS or using the Adjustment Brush in LR, turning sensitivity down with a single click can greatly reduce any tendency to overshoot during the outlining task.

The scroll wheel, once set to inertial mode with the top center push button, will easily spin for up to 12 seconds and provides almost the same smooth scrolling goodness which is the only good thing about either the Apple Magic Mouse or it’s almost as awful predecessor the Mighty Mouse. You know the Mighty Mouse right? The one with that ghastly little pea scroll wheel atop which would immediately stop working at the sign of grease or fluff. Being sealed, that meant another trip to the Apple Store and another $50. I went through three.

Including the +/- buttons, the G500 mouse has 5 buttons other than the scroll wheel action changer. Then you have the scroll wheel vertical click as well as the side to side scrolling of that wheel. All programmable easily in SteerMouse, which is the best $20 any Mac user can spend to get real world mice to work with full functionality. I have had no issues using SteerMouse on a variety of Hacks and Macs with many different mice.

The Logitech G500 gaming mouse costs $45, far less than a Revolution (some new stock is still out there at $75 – I’m queasy about recommending a used one after my experience). The Revo comes with the old fashioned 2″ long receiver which sticks way out and is just asking to be broken, in contrast to newer designs which protrude maybe 1/4″. The G500 requires no receiver/dongle unlike the G700, its wireless companion, which is $68, comes with a rechargeable battery, a 1/4″ USB receiver and yet more buttons than the G500.

If you are comfortable with a wired mouse with a limited number of buttons, the G500 delivers solid functionality, adjustable weight and excellent ergonomics. And, unlike with Apple’s MagicMouse, you will find that you will not be running up medical bills. Whether I believe Logitech’s claim of an 8,000,000 click life – obviously not verifiable – is another matter all together. As I’m no gamer, if it goes 1,000,000 I will be a happy camper, as that means you can bury or incinerate me with it.

Update March, 2013:

Dustin Sklavos, an excellent tech reviewer, has published a piece about the successor to the G500, the G500s on AnandTech The main difference appears to be more robust microswitch design for the main buttons, addressing one of the common failings of Logitech mice. I suspect that button failure is a malady which most affects heavy use gamers, but I would advise today’s buyer to search out the G500s. At worst, the manufacturer’s claims are untrue, meaning you are no worse off than with the earlier G500.

Update April 22, 2013:

Logitech has announced native driver support for the G500 (and others) when using OS X. It has only taken this dumb business a decade to realize that 30% of the PC user base uses OS X. How clever! You can get the drivers here.

Update March 13, 2014:

One year with the G500 today and still as happy as can be. The best mouse I have ever used.

Update May 7, 2014:

Though I use it only occasionally in broad spreadsheets, the side scroll/tilt feature of the scroll wheel failed on the left hand side. There is no longer a microswitch ‘click’ when that feature is activated, suggesting the microswitch is broken. I contacted Logitech Support and they shipped me a free replacement, no questions asked. The original warranty is three years. The replacement is a G502 – maybe a more robust design?

Update February 3, 2016:

Still wonderful and still available.

Update October 9, 2018:

Still wonderful and still available.

Update July 3, 2026:. My Mac Mini lost the ability to drag and drop files. After some diagnostic work the fault was traced to the G500 mouse. I replaced it with the G502 gaming mouse which has very similar controls and allows the additions of weights for a solid heft. The G502 ran me just $38. (The inflation adjusted price of the G500 is $75, so the G502 is a real bargain). The G500 had served daily for 13 years, so I can’t complain.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update

A qualified recommendation.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update

Background:

See my earlier Sigma 35/1.4 review comments based on the faulty first sample of the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 for Nikon bodies.

For the street snapper using an FF sensor body (me!), arguably no lens is more important than the 35mm. Trained in the classic Leica rangefinder tradition the 35mm was the lens I most often used in the days of film. When Leica’s bodies fell behind I moved on, first to a Canon 5D, then to a Nikon D700, and now a D3x. Thus it’s worth sweating the details in getting the best 35mm optic, especially if low light use is contemplated.

I would preface what follows with the fact that I am brand agnostic – camera and lens. Whatever works. Until now I have used only Nikkors on my bodies because I know little of aftermarket lenses and the price differentials are mostly immaterial for a long-term user.

After I complained to Sigma USA about the faulty loaner, they loaned me a brand new copy of Sigma’s 35/1.4 lens to try. They volunteered this. I did not ask. After some quick snaps at home of my long-suffering test target, Bert the Border Terrier, all seemed well, so I hit the streets. I did give him a cookie first, though.

The first lens I had borrowed from BorrowLenses.com had a random AF error, sometimes front- sometimes back-focusing. Heck, sometimes it was right, too! And when it was right it was beyond compare. So trying again with another sample was worth the effort.

I had explained to Sigma that I would be more than pleased to buy the loaned lens given its stellar performance, provided AF worked every time. f/1.4 is nice, but I already own the f/2 pre-Ai MF Nikkor, so spending all that money for one more stop and unreliable AF does not solve.

Results:

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
“What are you looking for?” At f/1.4.

Well, things worked out great and the second loaner was perfect in every regard. I ordinarily use point/lock focus/recompose with AF lenses, as it’s fast and consonant with my snapping theme which is mostly street work. Further I do not need focus tracking as my subjects are not moving fast and I certainly do not trust 51-point autofocus to decide where my key area of sharp focus resides. How on earth can it know? At very short subject-to-lens distances I will compose first, then change from the central focus point to one over the subject, thus obviating the change in subject distance occasioned by the ‘recompose’ step. However, I generally dislike using the adjusters on the Nikon’s back as they are slow and clunky. By the time I have dialed in the focus rectangle of choice the subject has moved on, as often as not.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Triple Rock bar, Berkeley. At f/2.

So good is the AF in this sample that my D3x body needed no AF fine tuning and that is just as well, for the APS-C sensor D2x in my other Nikon body provides no such capability and it’s nice to be able to use the Sigma on it with confidence. Sigma’s promised USB attachment which may make AF fine tuning possible in the lens might address issues for bodies without the fine tune capability, but that will have to wait determination until the device becomes available. One thing it will do is make it possible to do firmware upgrades as these come along, as possibly required by new bodies down the road.

Why buy it?

It bears repeating that there is very little point in buying this lens if most of your snaps are not taken at f/1.4, f/2 or f/2.8. There are any number of excellent Nikkors in both MF and AF guises which perform every bit as well from f/4 down and weigh a fraction of the Sigma. They are also far more compact. Indeed, so large is the lens hood Sigma provides with their optic that I do not use it as it simply sticks out too far, and I find I am constantly whacking it against something with the camera over my shoulder. I just opt for a protective (67mm) UV filter and have at it. The lens is very heavy and you are not going to enjoy carrying much more than one big body with this lens and maybe a medium telephoto like the 85/1.8. Much more than that and you will be hurting before long. Pain is not conducive to happy picture taking. Even on the heavy and large Nikon D2x and D3x bodies I use, the lens makes the combination top heavy and the kit will not stand upright on these cameras’ broad bases, preferring to tip forward. However the large size and excellent ergonomics more than counter this front heavy design.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Saloon. At f/8.

AF versus MF. No test charts, honest!

I tested the lens on a tripod at typical snapping distances of 5 and 10 feet at f/1.4, taking sets of three snaps:

  • Lens set at infinity, using AF
  • Lens set at the closest focus distance, using AF
  • Lens set on MF, using the focus confirmation light in the finder of the D3x

I did this both by daylight and by incandescent light at f/1.4.

The first two were always perfectly focused. The third was seldom correct, reflecting the too-broad range of the focus confirmation LED in the Nikon. AF beats MF every time at f/1.4. If your eyesight, like mine, is not the greatest, you propose to use f/1.4 and you find you opt for LED confirmation MF rather than screen MF, then this finding should give you pause in deciding whether an MF f/1.4 lens (Zeiss/Cosina, Nikon MF, Samyang) is for you. The AF choices – Nikon G or Sigma – appear the best option in this case. There are alternative focusing screens for certain Nikon bodies which might help, but I have no data. I got like AF results on both FF (D3x) and APS-C (D2x) sensor bodies.

For a whole bunch of AF examples at f/1.4, look here – I do not photograph test charts. These were taken under incandescent and fluorescent light. More wide aperture snaps accompany the article you are reading.

Buying the lens:


The owner and the loaner. Two 35mm f/1.4 Sigma lenses in Nikon mount.

I had made it clear to Sigma USA that I was a buyer, not a hack reviewer trolling for clicks and freebies, I told them I was pleased with the loaner and asked to buy it. But no. They wanted the loaner back. When I complained that made no sense they offered to sell me a new one from their stock, and I quote from their email:

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update

The writer meant ‘courtesy’ but ‘curiosity’ seems equally appropriate.

Bottom line? The loaner I received was pre-screened. Rational extrapolation? I would guess that all review samples are cherry picked before being sent for review.

Well, this raises some questions as you only screen review samples if you are worried about your QC, but I reckoned I might as well make the process a ‘win-win’, so I replied thus:

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update

The one I eventually bought was every bit as good as it should be. It, too, was cherry picked, as the above emails disclose. Here is the serial number of the one I bought:

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
The lens I purchased.

Off-center focusing:

The Nikon D3/D3x/D3s/D700/D800/D800e/D4 all share the same AF module, the Multi-CAM 3500FX. Many users of the D800/800e have reported focus problems when using other than the center focus rectangle for AF. I tested this at 5′ distance and f/1.4 with the Sigma on my D3x focusing by using the extreme left and then right AF sensors at f/1.4. Focus was perfect for each, so it may be a D800/800e build or Nikon QC issue which is involved here. Once again, this is based on a sample of one, so treat this information with a pinch of salt.

What I saw:

Based on the two samples from Sigma and the loaner from Borrowlenses.com, this is the highest resolution 35mm lens, at wide apertures, I have used. It is also the bulkiest and heaviest. The Sigma easily out-resolves the 35/1.4 Nikkor G which BorrowLenses.com loaned me when I returned the first faulty Sigma, and is equal to or better at f/2 than the 35mm f/2 Asph Summicron for the Leica M which I owned for many years before giving up on Leica’s dated bodies. It also renders out of focus areas better at f/2 than the Asph Summicron, which tends to harshness. There’s more to life than raw resolution and the Sigma does not disappoint when it comes to color rendering where it easily matches the best I have owned from Nikon and Leica.

Images downloaded into Lightroom pop on the display. Colors have a natural quality commonly seen when Leica or older MF single-coated Nikkors are used.

And while pixel peeping will show that f/2 is better than f/1.4, f/1.4 is fully usable at all times and I find that I never hesitate to go full bore, gaining shorter shutter speeds in the process. F/1.4 with a fast shutter speed and no blur beats the alternative. As f/1.4 means backgrounds will be blurred, it bears adding that the out-of-focus bits are pleasantly rendered by this optic. You do not need a single test chart to tell you all of this. Just use your eyes.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Ethnic pride in North Beach. At f/2.

Sample variations:

  • The first loaner from Borrowlenses.com had perfect focus collar resistance but the AF was faulty. When focused correctly resolution was the best I had ever seen at f/1.4 to f/4, equalled by some other makers’ lenses at smaller apertures. Serial number 50004444.
  • The second loaner, from Sigma USA, had a slightly too stiff focus collar, perfect AF and resolution to match the first loaner above. AF nailed focus every time. S/N 50004693.
  • The one I eventually purchased from Sigma USA had perfect focus collar resistance, perfect AF and resolution to match the above two. An occasional squeak can be heard from the AF mechanism, audible to the operator only. I expect it will go away with use. S/N 50022095.

So there are sample-to-sample variations but the one constant was the high resolution of all three samples. Let’s be fair. Even Leica, Nikon and Canon have sample-to-sample variations in their premium lenses. Just check Roger Cicala’s blog to confirm this.

Other considerations:

What else is there not to like? The lens is a tad sensitive to flare when the light source is really bright and close to the axis. I suppose using the hood might help here but that’s not something I am willing to do. So, maybe not a fair test, but one consonant with my working method.


Flare central – what happens with the sun in the frame or just outside it.

The focus collar turns the way most lenses do, other than Nikkors that is. (Only Zeiss seems to go to the trouble of conforming the rotation direction on its Nikon versions). However, as I use AF with the Sigma all the time – and the AF is faster than that in the competing 35/1.4 Nikkor-G – it makes no practical difference. The focus collar on my loaner from Sigma was stiffer than on the first, the one on the purchased copy is just right.

I also dislike not having a physical aperture ring on the lens but that is the way of the world. That’s a Nikon issue, not a Sigma issue. You have to use the control dial(s) on the body to change apertures and may have to touch the shutter release first if the LCD display has gone to sleep to check your setting, otherwise no amount of control dial twiddling will change aperture. But the stellar performance of this optic makes this a light cross to bear.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
North Beach paint job. At f/2.

Best of all, paired with a high pixel count full frame sensor like those found in the D3x, D600 and D800 bodies from Nikon and in the Canon D1x, 1Ds/III, 5D/II and 5D/III, there is high excess detail in files which allows for selective cropping when you could not get as close as you would have liked to your subject. I have cropped to one quarter of the frame and made 24″ prints and the results are stunning. No other word for it. That makes for a very capable body-lens combination and increasingly finds me leaving the medium telephoto at home.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Warmth. At f/2.8. Cropped from one quarter of the D3x 24mp frame.
This prints beautifully at 18″ x 24″.

Qualified recommendation:

The circuitous purchase route I took and the fact that my lens was pre-screened by Sigma USA’s tech people makes it impossible to give a blanket recommendation for this lens. Yes, good ones are as good as it gets. Both the loaner, also pre-screened, and the one I finally purchased direct from Sigma are outstanding. But buy ‘off the shelf’ from B&H or Amazon or whoever, and you may still find you are in a lottery. This may mean returning one or two before lucking out, and a growing body of AF issues is now being reported on chat boards. These also seem to be a problem with Sigma’s 50/1.4 and 85/1.4 lenses with samples requiring substantial focus tuning adjustments. In fairness, chat boards tend to be like hospitals. Only the sick have an axe to grind there. Also, bear in mind that the issue with my first loaner was not one of micro-focus adjustment. The AF was faulty. Period.

All manufacturers will make occasional duds. It’s a toss-up whether Sigma’s QC beats that of the opposition. Only industry insiders know. At this time there is no statistical basis for concluding whether Sigma’s quality control is improved from the bad old days or not. Nor do we know how it compares to the QC at Leica/Zeiss/Canon/Nikon et al. What is troubling is that, as both the Sigma and the 80% costlier Nikon 35/1.4 lenses state ‘Made in Japan’, I struggle to understand how Sigma manages to sell its lens for so much less without some cost cutting along the line. The math does not solve. Would I pay $1,100, $1,200 or even more with assurance that my lens has been subject to rigorous QC or pre-screening? Yes. This optic is easily worth that amount, especially when compared to the competition from Nikon and Zeiss, the latter MF only.

One other unknown must be considered. Nikon lenses are famously long lived. Any number of 40+ year old pre-Ai MF Nikkors I own testify to that fact. Will AF lenses last as long, given the complexities of motors and gears and electronics? Has Sigma cut cost saving corners compared with Nikon in making this optic? I do not know. Only time will tell. Still, if one gets three years of hard use from the lens (which is the Sigma USA warranty period to the original purchaser from an authorized US dealer for its DG non-EX lenses, like this one) then it probably does not matter. Sell at the end of the warranty period and replace if it’s a concern.

Conclusion:

I recommend you buy this lens if it meets your low light needs. You may have to try more than one sample if your first is a bad one. While I was unlucky with my first sample, there is no statistical basis for making any conclusive statements about Sigma’s quality control. A sample of three is not meaningful. One day we will probably see statistically meaningful results from the likes of Roger Cicala at LensRentals.com. Roger tests dozens of samples of each lens and can meaningfully address sample variation. But Roger, please make these tests include finder controlled AF, not LiveView. That’s why you use f/1.4 – street snaps in poor light. LiveView is not a concept here nor are tripods involved.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Blinds. In the tradition of Eugène Atget. At f/8.

USB dongle:

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
10 pins on the CPU.

Sigma has promised to sell a USB attachment which will allow firmware updates – and maybe other adjustments? – to the lens. As you can see, the lens has 10 contacts on the CPU compared to a maximum of 8 on Nikkors, suggesting the other two are needed for this device.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 review
Sigma’s rumored USB dongle.

Serial number:

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
This is the s/n on the Sigma USA loaner I had to return.

The serial number on the Sigma is very hard to make out. It’s screen printed in faint type atop the lens, diagonally up and to the right of the (useless) distance indicator window. My previous loaner was 5000444 – that was the one with the faulty AF.

Both the above lens serial number images were made with the excellent Lumin app on the iPhone 5.

Comparison with the ancient Nikkor MF pre-Ai 35mm f/2 Nikkor-O:

The Nikkor is over 40 years old so this is a brutal comparison.

In each case I use the lens correction profile I have made using Adobe’s Lens Profile Creator application. It’s more necessary at large apertures in the case of the Sigma where significant vignetting (corner shading) at f/1.4 and f/2 is removed. You can expect Adobe to come out with their own version of this profile soon. I also apply Sharpening=66 for the Nikon D3x, which is what I find to be optimal to overcome the anti-aliasing filter located in front of the 24MP sensor in the camera.

Center performance of the Sigma is clearly better in 5 foot wide prints at all apertures down to f/4. The resolution of the Sigma is truly outstanding from f/2 down. Will the Nikkor yield good 5′ prints at f/2 in the center? Absolutely. Will the Sigma appear sharper? Yes. Enough that you will notice on critical inspection.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Boozers. At f/4.

Edge performance is a different story. The Sigma is greatly superior at all apertures, but especially in the range f/2 though f/8. There is no comparison. The Nikkor is a fine lens but it shows its age here. For the street snapper edges do not matter much. For the landscape artist there’s a big difference. The Sigma is in a different league.

The old Nikkor is marginally less prone to flare into a light source.

Color rendering for both lenses is outstanding. The Sigma is multi-coated, the Nikkor single-coated. Whatever.

Comparison with the current Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 AF-S G:

The Nikkor AF-S G is outperformed by the Sigma at center and edge through and including f/2.8. After that I cannot tell the difference. The Nikkor’s AF is slower but no big deal. The current Nikkor f/1.4 is equal to the old MF Nikkor f/2 in the center at all apertures but clearly superior at the edges at all apertures.

The current Nikkor is marginally less prone to flare into a light source and vignettes less, before correction, at f/1.4 and f/2.

The Nikkor is lighter – nice. The Nikkor costs 78% more than the Sigma in the US, ex-tax. Not nice. Used Nikkors are coming to market at $1250, probably as word gets out about the Sigma.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM A1 Nikon – update
Lunch. At f/1.4.

Adobe’s lens correction profile:

The just announced Beta version of Lightroom 4.4 now includes an Adobe profile for the Sigma.


Lens correction profiles added in LR 4.4 Beta.

I have tested the Adobe profile against mine and there is no detectable difference at any aperture between the two. If you are using my profile there is no need to rush into the Beta 4.4 update of Lightroom. Let it mature and migrate when Adobe says it’s final. If you want to be sure Lightroom is using Adobe’s profile, do erase mine if you have it installed, as it otherwise takes precedence over Adobe’s.

Full disclosure: For reasons I do not understand, Sigma sold me the lens at a discounted price. I did not ask. They volunteered the discount out of the blue, even though I told them my income from photography is zero and that I am an amateur. While the discount I received was not monetarily significant to me, I reciprocated by sending them two nice 18″ x 24″ prints taken with the lens.